• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.62-86
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• 1970

A study on the upper garment of Korean women, JUORI The upper garment of Korean women. JUGORI, is an inherited mode from the ancient clothing style in the various aspects based on the particulars of Korean clothes. The ancient style of clothes is originated from KWAMDUI belonging to inhabitants of Northern Territory of Korea. And it is quite different from Chinese clothes in lineage. However, this unicque mode of clothes has been much influnced by the Chinese culture and also by the climate of Korea. And it is quite different from Chinese clothes in lineage. However, this unicque mode of clothes has been much influnced by the Chinese culture and also by the climate of Korean penynsula. The changes of the pattern of JUGORI, in a word, is a sign of shortening tendency of size. This tendency of JUGORI is remarkably seen in the shortening of length and other parts are decreased in size. The JUGORI in the ancient age was fallen below the weist of woman, which is similar to Robe, and was worn with band. However, the length of the JUGORI has been gradually shortened, and therefore, GORUM took place of the band. The shortening tendency of JUGORI is seemed to be shown its sign in the initial time of its origin, because there are some evidences that the women in Sylla Dynasty, and this tendency has been much expedited during the period of Koryu Dynasty with influences of Monggorian culture (Won Lynasty of China) The oldest sample for data of JUGORI in nowaday is one the remains of Yi Dynasty, and this sample for data provides all the particulars of the modern pattern of JUGORI. The tendency of JUGORI had been continued even in Yi Dynasty, and at the end of the Dynasty, the clothes was shortened that the women felt inconvenient wearing it in the status of the shortened JUGORI which was even hardly cover the initial time of epoch of modernization induced from the Western civilization, and after 1920s and 1930s JUGORI become a larger tendency. This is a sing of revival of practical use and rationalization of JUGORI become a shortening tendency again, and the size is similar with that of early age of Yi Dynasty. Instead of these similarities, the particulars of modern JUGORI is weighing on much emphasis on curve beauty and expression of experior beauty. The reason is that, together with westernization of clothes, JUGORI became a special pattern of clothes as a traditional Korean women wears. The very thing explaining this pattern of JUGORI is the "ARIRANG DRESS". And there are some fashion using button instead of GORUM and half sleeve JUGORI for summer use which is regarded as a part of improved aspect of life in Korea. in Korea.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.88-102
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• 2003

In our culture, the term, "be like", is frequently used. There are expressions such as "feminine-looking dress" and "manly style" relating to this term when we describe the styles of clothing. This study addresses the question on which type of garment would be selected under the description of the term, "be-like", in relation to gender. This term reveals the preconception of gender as being feminine or masculine according to the styles and colors of clothes. A group of 362 college students from Seoul and Gyeonggi area was surveyed fur the study The statistical analysis of SPSS 10.0 was applied f3r analyzing the data, and the significant variances were reviewed by the basic statistics, multi-variate and T-test. The results are as follows: First, the details of clothes imply the preconceived idea of gender. As a result, women's blouses and skirts were selected as the most feminine upper and bottom garments. The Y-shirt and T-shirt were selected as the most masculine upper garments. However, in contrast to the . skirts being the most feminine bottom wear, the pants were not significantly recognized as the most masculine ,clothes. Second, the variances of the survey show that the female students are more conscious of the sexual identity expressed in clothes than the male students. Third, the styles of clothes reflect the general understanding of what is considered to be "feminine or not feminine" and "masculine or not masculine" In conclusion, this study has discovered that the certain characteristics of gender are predominantly implicated in the styles length, and color of clothes. Both men and women responded differently in defining their idea of "femininity" and "masculinity". Nevertheless, there still exists strong preconception of what is considered to be feminine or masculine, and it affects the choices people make in selecting clothes.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.39 no.1
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• pp.169-178
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• 2001

In this study, we examined relationship among social class, conspicious consumption, dimensions of clothing price, and clothing buying behavior. The data were obtained by 290 female college students using questionnaire. The questionnaire were consist of four parts, dimensions of clothing price, conspicious consumption, clothing buying behavior, demographic factors. And the data were analysed with frequency, $x^2$-test, factor analysis, cluster analysis, ANOVA and Duncan test. The results were as follows. First, there was significant differences in social class and their attitude on dimensions of clothing price. Upper class consumers evaluate clothing price as Quality and dignity, on the other hand, lower class consumers perceived it as tendency for discount. Second, clothing selective standards was founded significantly different in social class. Clothing symbolic factor was more important to the upper class then lower class. Third, upper class consumers had a tendency of purchasing more clothes than lower class, and spend more money on clothing. Fourth, there was significant differences in conspicious consumption group and their attitude on dimensions of clothing price. Fifth, when conspicious consumption tendency is higher, importance of clothing price is highly perceived by college student. Sixth, Amount of clothing purchase and clothing expenditure were significantly different in conspicious consumption group. Consumers tend to buy more clothes and spend more money on clothes when they had high tendency in conspicious consumption.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.7
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• pp.69-81
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• 2003

This study firstly identify the characteristics of the clothes for traditional wedding ceremony from the late Chosun Dynasty (19th Century) and today through comparison. It also tries to discover what today's people are incorrectly aware of regarding the traditional wedding clothes particularly by survey. It ultimately aims to present constructive ways of solution against the illadvised and simplified deformation of the traditional wedding clothes. When comparing the traditional wedding clothes from the late Chosun and its modern counterparts, Dan-ryung and Samo-kwandae is still used for bridegroom's dress. In case of bride's dress, several items such as Yeom-eui, So-eui and Hwal-ot have been disappeared while Won-sam can be seen today. There were found many additional differences not only in type of the wedding clothes, but also in its form and constitution. Therefore, it is advisory to take the wedding clothes worn by commoners and upper class as the basic form for today's traditional wedding clothes. In addition, diversified research should be carried on to make them broadly accepted by today's life.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.1-13
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to research production situation of made-to-measure clothes of ready-towear manufacturers for middle-aged women. This study will be the basis of developing production model of mass customized clothing for middle-aged women. For the questionnaire, 18 ready-to-wear manufacturers, which were producing made-to-measure clothes and in higher ranking of sales, were selected and the pattern makers of the manufacturers were questioned about 29 items for this research. The results of the questionnaire were as follows: 1. The production ratio of made-to-measure clothes was increasing and most manufacturers have problems making fitted clothes for each customer. 2. The most common reason to order made-to-measure clothes was the sizes according to the various somatotypes and the proportion difference of a body. 3. The common somatotypes of upper body for made-to-measure clothes were obesity, large bust, bent forward posture, and leaning back posture. 4. The common somatotypes of lower body for made-to-measure clothes were obesity, prominent abdomen, prominent abdomen-prominent hip, and prominent hip. 5. Pattern making for made-to-measure clothes was to use production patterns or make new patterns.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.11
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• pp.1547-1557
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to find the profitable clothes design of middle-aged men by examining visual effects in physical design. The methode of study is experimentation. The sample of this study is people who live in Kwangiu, Korea and 20-50 age's 719. The difference of physical design effect by arrangement, pattern and the shape of body. There are partly resemblance difference in physical design visual effect by the shape of body and clothes design(arrangement and pattern)In weak type, single suit with striped pattern and double suit with check pattern make the upper body look short. Otherwise, double suit with striped pattern have man look tall. In standard type, single arrangement suit with striped pattern make the lower half of body long, so make man look tall. And double arrangement suit with striped pattern have man look tall. The suit without pattern have one's shoulder look wide. In pyknic type, striped pattern make the lower half of one's body look long. But single arrangement with striped pattern have the upper body look big. sing1e suit with striped pattern make lower half of body look long and check pattern make it look short. Totally, arrangement, and pattern are very important clothes due to give an effect on whole visual effect man's suit. Also, these dues were felt differently by each types of body. So, it is confirmed that the type of body is important fluent to make people perceive.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.6 s.105
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• pp.58-71
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• 2006

This research is aimed to develop the functional clothing designs for disabled women in the manner of investigating design preferences among them by means of questionnaire and interview with 150 disabled women as respondents and interviewees. The findings of this research are summarized as follows: 1. Regarding satisfaction with ready-made clothes, the respondents answered 'very satisfied' (1.6%), 'usually satisfied' (14.1%), 'moderate' (20.3%) and 'unsatisfied' (53.1%), suggesting that they had been generally unsatisfied with ready-made clothes. 2. There were more disabled women preferring to ready-made clothes with one-grade bigger (loose.) size than the actual one (53.1%) instead of completely fitted size (43.8%) when they purchased such clothes. This result indicates that they prefer to ready-made clothes with bigger size than the actual one because most of such clothes are made up of non-elastic materials which may be unfavorable for wearer's activities. 3. It was found that primarily worn upper garment among them was T-shirt (59.4%). The reason may be that T-shirt is favorable for using prosthesis and orthotics such as wheelchair, walking stick and crutches thanks to its remarkably high activity as well as simple to maintain, compared with other kinds of upper garments. 4. Regarding preferences to functional clothing designs, the primarily worn lower garment among them was trousers (85.9%); the reason was easiness to move. The main reasons of avoiding to wear a skirt included 'difficult to move' (40.6%) and 'exposed disabled region' (30.3%). Accordingly, functional clothing for disabled women should be developed in consideration for their individual characteristics of disability associated with the disabled region such as wheelchair user, crutch user or brace user, In addition, the designs should be made so that they are not different from those for non-disabled people.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.38 no.5
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• pp.769-782
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• 2014

This study considers the correlation between model pose and clothes in Patrick Demarchelier's fashion photos as well as expression characteristics. The conclusions of the study are as follows. The type of model pose in Patrick Demarchelier's fashion photos can be categorized into five types: maximized type of upper and lower body part, minimized type of upper and lower body part, maximized type of upper body and minimized type of lower body part, minimized type of upper body and maximized type of lower body part, basic type of upper and lower body part. In case of having examined the correlation between body movement and costume, the clothes in the model pose included in the maximization of the body were formed mainstream by silhouette, which was formed by decorative elements or full drapery. In the model poses included in the reduction of the body, the costume tended to expose many parts of the body to provide a simple or structural silhouette form. The costume was expressed in colorful form and poses assumed without body movements. The expression characteristics of the model poses in Patrick Demarchelier's fashion photos were sensuality, dynamicity, and simplicity. First, sensuality was expressed as feminine sensuality accompanying an erotic mood by naturally emphasizing a woman's breast or leg by reducing the body. Second, dynamicity provided a vividness to the image as if directly living and moving by highlighting the rhythmic aspect of the body. Simplicity aroused the effect of paying attention to clothes or other incidental elements rather than the image expressed by the body of a model by excluding body movement.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.5
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• pp.1-13
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• 2008

This study is largely aimed at presenting ways to improve the working clothes and help companies create more positive images by suggesting designs of the clothes, which take into accounts the corporate image, symbolism, function and aesthetic appreciation through introduction of companies' CIP. And, it is significant to propose working clothes development condition and process with introduction of companies' CIP(Corporate Identity Program : work that systematize and simplify visually images which companies or public bodies have) A way of this study was made up with working clothes design development process which a student planned. First of all, this study looked into Company D's Corporate Identity Program(CIP) to develop the design that corresponds with the characteristics of the company's favorite design, working environment and demands of the employees. And, then, the study conducted a survey of 30 employees and intensive interviews with heads of four teams including the Safety Team, the Working Clothes Management Team and the General Affairs Team to find out the requirements of the clothes and the characteristics of the company. Based on them, the concrete image that the company pursues and the direction of design were set up through image positioning. In the end, three different concept designs were presented through image-mapping and the concrete design of each item was developed. A total of seven items including upper and lower garments (a jacket and trousers) for the spring-summer seasons, upper and lower garments (a jumper and trousers) for the winter season, cold-protecting vest and winter clothes (a coat and trousers) were presented in accordance with the three concepts. One of the concept designs, which was selected through evaluation by employees of Company D, was produced as a sample and then the final design was chosen after a discussion attended by the head of each team and representatives of the employees. Based on the aforementioned design planning, one design was selected from each of the three concept designs for production. And each of these was requested to special production enterprise and manufactured. Following the result of study, by looking into a case of a practical joint design project between a university and a company, this study suggested ideas for business to improve working clothes through the academic-industrial cooperation and presented conditions and process of design development. And, this study also aims to examine the feasibility of academic-industrial cooperation based on the cases in which enterprises and universities staged joint projects to develop working clothes.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.615-621
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• 2011

This study was conducted to evaluate of the protection efficiency in each part of developed pesticide-proof clothes by repeated washings. We investigated the effect of repeated laundering on mechanical properties of pesticide-proof clothes (not washed vs 5 times washed). We also examined pesticide infiltration rate into the pesticide-proof clothes by repeated laundering. The patches(TCL paper, surface area 50cm2)were attached to the inside of pesticide-proof clothes(head, chest, right upper-arm, right forearm, left thigh, left calf, back) which subjects had dressed in during pesticide spraying. The patches were detached from working clothes after work. For the extraction of pesticide in pesticide-proof clothes, sonication was applied for 30 min with methanol. The gas chromatography/mass spectrometry (GC/MS) was applied to identify the pesticide component. The results of this study are as follows: The force strength, water-vapour resistance and surface wetting resistance of pesticide-proof clothes decreased 5 times more in washed clothes. The concentration of pesticide was the highest in the head area of pesticide-proof clothes. In seven parts of TLC paper attached to the pesticide proof clothes, the concentration of pesticide was higher in the left thigh. The penetration part and concentration of pesticide increased as washing was repeated. Therefore the conclusion which can be drawn from this study is this: protection efficiency of pesticide-proof clothes decrease by repeated washings.