• Title/Summary/Keyword: Upper Clothes

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Comparisons: Sizes in Men's Slim-Fit Jackets according to Brand Zones and Number of Buttons, and Jacket Patternmaking Methods according to Jacket Styles (브랜드 존과 버튼수에 따른 남성복 슬림 핏 재킷의 사이즈와 재킷의 스타일에 따른 패턴설계방법 실태조사)

  • Kim, Myoung-Ok;Kim, In-Joo;Suh, Mi-A
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.20 no.2
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    • pp.184-194
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    • 2012
  • The purpose of this study is twofold: it suggests appropriate sizes in menswear slim-fit jackets according to brand zones and number of buttons, as well as jacket patternmaking methods according to jacket styles by surveying and comparing the overall present status of patternmaking and production for both men's slim-fit and classic-fit jackets. The researcher conducted interviews with patternmakers of sixteen brands with prepared questionnaires. Data were analyzed by descriptive statistics using SPSS 12.0. The results of this study are as follows: first, for the production ratios of jacket style, the jacket styles' respective proportions differ distinctly according to brand zone. Second, for a jacket with the same number of buttons according to brand zone, the size in character-casual brand zone (character casual can be defined as high quality brands producing designer style clothes) is slightly bigger than the men's formal suit. As the number of buttons increases, there are increases in the chest, waist and hip circumference; on the other hand, the front neck width and the distance from the shoulder neck point to the bottom of the lapel both decrease. Furthermore, the amount of wearing ease in the chest, waist, upper arm circumference, and sleeve curve is less in slim-fit jacket styles than in classic-fit jacket styles. Fusible interfacing alone is used in slim-fit jackets, while sew-in interfacing is used in combination with fusible interfacing in classic-fit jackets. This research concludes that when slim-fit men's jackets are manufactured, appropriate patternmaking and manufacturing methods should be considered.

A Study on the Morphological Feature of Baeja Excavated from the Tomb of Sim, Su-ryun(沈秀崙) (심수륜(沈秀崙)묘 출토 배자(背子)의 형태적 특징 고찰)

  • Lee, Young Min;Cho, Woo Hyun
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.64 no.8
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    • pp.55-66
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    • 2014
  • Baeja(背子), which was excavated from the tomb of Sim, Su-ryun(沈秀崙, 1534-1589), a civil official, has a distinctive pattern. Two rectangles are connected by button knots on both shoulders and below the armpits, and surround the front and back of the upper body. Also, the back is shorter than the front, while the center-front is not opened. It also has a round neckline without a collar. Jeojuji(楮注紙), which is a traditional Korean paper made from mulberry bark, is put between the outer shell and lining of this clothing as an interlining. The purpose of this study is to perform a morphological feature analysis of the Baeja to examine its characteristics and name, and clothes with similar features, attire relic, pictorial and ceramic materials as well as precedent studies were used in the analysis. The Baeja, which was excavated from the tomb of Sim, Su-ryun, has the same pattern as Yangdang(裲檔), which was worn in the ancient northern region and China. Its composition and the way it was worn are very simple. Also, the shorter back length can be used as evidence that it was worn as everyday outer clothing, and not in a ceremony. Jeojuji, used as an interlining, made it easy to sew and maintain attire pattern and played a role of maintaining warmth. Therefore, this Baeja is presumed to be an outer clothing simply worn in the everyday life for convenience and warmth. In regards to its morphological feature, it was most likely a Yangdang in Joseon Dynasty.

Types of perception on the body shape of old-old aged women

  • Cha, Su-Joung
    • Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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    • v.23 no.4
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    • pp.121-129
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    • 2018
  • The purpose of this study is to provide a basic data of clothing development which can improve the satisfaction of the body shape by examining the subjective evaluation and type characteristics of the old-old women themselves. Q methodology was used for the study of subjectivity. The types of the body shape of the old-old women were analyzed as five types: bent body with protruding abdomen, backward bent body with slender legs, inverted triangle, swollen cylinder, triangle. The bent body with protruding abdomen had a bent back and waist. They were recognized that the bust and shoulders were sagging and abdomen was protruding. The backward bent body with slender legs was the smallest of the five types with a BMI index and shoulders and bust were sagging. And knee and waist were bent and legs were thin. The inverted triangular shape showed the highest BMI index among the 5 types, indicating that it is obese. They thought that the upper body was developed and the lower body and legs were slender. The swollen cylinder shape was analyzed to be the smallest and the most fat body. The triangle shape had developed lower body and bent back and waist. It is considered that a design consideration is needed to cover the disadvantages of the body shape in consideration of not only wearing feeling but also aesthetic part when making clothes. By making ergonomic garments considering the characteristics of body shape, it can be expected to change the body shape due to the wearing of clothing that is not suitable for body shape and the effect on physical health in a positive direction.

A Study on the Clothing Easiness of Movement for Casual Hanbok as School Summer Uniform (생활한복형 하절교복의 동작기능성)

  • Yoo, Jung-Ja;Kweon, Soo-Ae
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.32 no.2
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    • pp.212-222
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    • 2008
  • This study investigated the clothing easiness of movement when wearing casual Hanbok(Saenghwal Hanbok), as a high school student uniform, and produced some recommendations for improving the Hanbok. Casual summer-uniform Hanbok produced from different types of materials were produced for this study. They were P/R, P100, P/C, and P/R/S for the blouses, with P/W, P100, P/R, and P/W/F for the skirts. Their clothing easiness of movement were then tested at $25{\pm}1^{\circ}C$ and $50{\pm}10%$ R. H. The results were as follows: The easiness of movement for casual Hanbok was marked as $3.7l({\pm}1.03)$ on average which is higher than those of other garments, so it can be presumed that the easiness of movement for the tested clothes was quite good. The easiness of movement was lower, however, when students had their arms up front, right arms upright, arms crossed on the cheats, and bent forward whereas they were more comfortable when standing straight and sitting on a chair at 90 degrees. In terms of easiness of movement, the following ranking was revealed: waist, bust, shoulder, back, armhole, and upper arm. The easiness of movement for casual Hanbok skirts was quite good, and on average marked around $4.26({\pm}.77)$. Standing straight was the most comfortable position, when they bend forward 45 degree and 90 degree were the most uncomfortable positions. The buttocks area was also more comfortable than the waist area for casual Hanbok skirts.

Analysis of the whole body shape of old-old aged males -focused on 70-85 aged males-

  • Cha, Su-Joung
    • Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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    • v.24 no.5
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    • pp.81-91
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    • 2019
  • In this study, 3D measurement data of 70 to 85 years old men were analyzed to investigate the body shape characteristics. and the type of the whole body of older men. Through this study, we aimed to provide basic data necessary for making good clothes for elderly men. We analyzed the body shape of elderly males using Korea 's 2015 elderly anthropometric data by SPSS Ver. 24.0. The body shape of older males was classified into four types: 'thin & long inverted triangle with thick legs', 'thick & short inverted triangle with bird legs', 'thick & long triangle with thick legs', 'thick & short triangle with thick legs'. As the age increases, the shoulders are sagging, the progressive reduction of the spine leads to a decrease in height, and the backbone refraction causes a decrease in the anterior center length and an increase in the back length. In addition, as the age increases, the chest circumference decreases and the abdomen and waist circumference increase. Considering these physical changes, it is necessary to set the length of the garment to 2-3cm shorter in the case of the aged layer. Waist and abdomen area are increased, it is considered that it will be necessary to add more margin of 2cm than general silver clothing when setting the margin amount. When setting the length of the upper body, it is considered that the front center length should be reduced and the back length should be increased to keep the bottom level. In this study, only the elderly males aged 70-85 years were included in the analysis of the whole body type. It is significant that the studies so far have been extended to those older than 70 years. Future research will need to be applied to the development of silver clothing through comparison of older men 's body shape in their 60s and 70s.

The Effects of Kisaeng's Clothes on General Women's Fashion in the Late Choson Dynasty (조선후기 기여복식이 일반부녀자 복식에 미친 영향)

  • 김나형;김용서
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.39
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    • pp.113-123
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    • 1998
  • This study focuses on the effects of the clothes worn by kisaeng; courtesans trained in singing and dancing, on changes in female psychology as reflected in general women's fashions during the later years of the Chosun dynasty. During this period, the social order had broken down considerable, due in part to the introduction of Roman Catholicism, and in part to the actions of Sil-hak, who emphasized open-ness and practicality in the organization of social affairs. This freer social environment disrup-ted the established social hierarchies. The kisaeng were among the first to respond to the new social mores by adopting more colorful, sensual, and individualized fashions. Their social position allowed them to reflect the new aesthetics of the time right away. Those aesthetics seemed to lay great emphasis on the artistic effects of contrast. The kisaeng would adorn their heads with large Kache (an elaborate wig or hairdo typically reserved for use by women in full formal dress). In contrast to this conspicuous hairstyle, they typically wore very tight-fitting Jogori (short-cropped Korean traditional jackets for women) around their upper torsos. The long skirts emerging from beneath these short jackets would typically flare out dramatically, with the aid of petticoats. However, these skirts would be bound at the waist with a sash, increasing the sexual suggestiveness of the clothing by drawing at-tention to the hips, and by exposing the bottom frills of the petticoats, or the wide pantal-oons and other undergarments the kisaeng wore to add volume to their skirts. The relative freedom enjoyed by the kisaeng to experiment with new fashions was not widely shared by most women. This generated envy from women of the noble classes, who were more bound by convention, and restrained from adopting such a mode of dress. It also generated envy from women of the humble classes, who saw the kisaeng as working little for their wealth, and yet dressing every day in finery that the average women would only ever be able to afford on her wedding day. This envy directed at the relative freedom/wealth of the kisaeng by women who faced greater socioeconomic constraints was given cultural expression through the adoption of elements of the kisaeng's fashion in the fashions of both noblewomen and humble women in old korea. The luxurious Kache sported by the kisaeng had in fact been borrowed from the habitual attire of upper-class women. So to distinguish themeselves from the kisaeng, they began to abandon these elaborate hairstyles in favor of traditional ceremonial hoods (Nel-ul-a thin black women's hood) and coronets (Suegaechima). This supposed reaction to the abuse of the Kache by the kisaeng still remained influenced by the kisaeng still remained influence by the kisaeng, however, as these headdresses became adorned with many more jewels and decorations, in imitation of the kisaeng's adaptations of the coronet. At the same time, noblewomen began sporting the Jangwue ; a headdress previously worn only by kisaeng and lower class women, and lower class women were then permitted to wear the Kache at weddings. All women behan to wear shorter, tighter Jogori jackets, and to add volume to their skirts. They also attached frills to their under-garments in imitation of the kisaeng's exposed petticoats and pantaloons. The impact of kisaeng fashions was thus deep and widespread, and can be understood as an expression of women's longing for freedom from socioeconomic constraints in the late Chosun dynasty. This study adopts an interdisciplinary ap-proach to the understanding of historical changes in women's fashions. Such interdisciplinary work can greatly enrich the study of fashion, often narrowly focused on clothing morphology and broad generalizations about society. For this reason, specific dynamics of feminine psychology in the late Chosun dynasty were elaborated in this study, to provide a deeper under-standing of the changes in fashion underpinned by them. If more such detailed analyses are undertaken, a whole new understanding of changes in fashion can be generated, and perhaps a transformation of the field of fashion history can be ultimately achieved.

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Survey on Use of Basic Bodice Blocks at Domestic Men's apparel Companies and Comparative Study on Men's Bodice Blocks (국내(國內) 남성복(男性服) 업체(業體)의 기본원형(基本元型) 사용현황(使用現況)과 남성복(男性服) 상의원형(上衣元型) 비교(比較))

  • Li, Eun-Ji;Shim, Boo-Ja
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.11 no.4
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    • pp.120-134
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    • 2007
  • The usage of basic bodice blocks at men's apparel companies is investigated and the domestic and international men's upper bodice blocks are compared to find directions of research on development of bodice basic blocks. The following conclusions are found in this study. 1. The survey shows that basic bodice blocks are not used at men's apparel companies although all the respondents have good knowledge on bodice basic blocks. They responded that basic bodice blocks for representative body figures of each age category or of each country would help comparative studies on domestic and international basic bodice blocks and development of exporting apparel products. Also, they expected the utilization of men's basic bodice blocks both as education materials and in studies of design, of body figures, and of basic blocks for industry. 2. The comparative study on men's bodice blocks shows that waist circumference, hip circumference, neck circumference, height, and shoulder length, in addition to the minimal essential size items such as chest circumference and center back length, are used in most basic bodice blocks. The size formulae of each basic block are compared to find how the sizes are determined. For center back length, either measured back length or a certain proportion of height is used. For front and back interscyes, chest circumference is used in most basic bodice blocks. Either measured size, or a certain proportion of height or chest circumference is used for back height. The averaged ease allowances of basic bodice blocks are 3.2 cm for chest circumference, 10.8 cm for waist circumference, 1.2 cm for front interscye, 0.1 cm for back interscye, 0.2cm for shoulder length, and 0 cm for center back length. However, body blocks for different types of clothes have different ease allowances. Shirt basic blocks have ease allowances of 6.1 cm for chest circumference, 13.7 cm for waist circumference, 1.4 cm for front interscye, 0.6 cm for back interscye, 1.2 cm for shoulder length, and 1.8 cm for center back length. On the other hand, jacket basic blocks have ease allowances of 8.8 cm for chest circumference, 16 cm for waist circumference, 1.1 cm for front interscye, 1.4 cm for back interscye, 1.1 cm for shoulder length, and 0.8 cm for center back length.

A study of shopping orientation and dissatisfactions of adolescence who are using internet malls (인터넷 쇼핑몰 이용 청소년의 의복쇼핑성향과 불만족에 관한 연구)

  • Kim, Hyeon-Jee;Chae, Jin-Mie;Oh, Kyung-Wha
    • Journal of Korean Home Economics Education Association
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    • v.21 no.3
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    • pp.65-81
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    • 2009
  • The purpose of this thesis was to analyze shopping orientations of adolescence and to understand the reasons of their dissatisfactions in purchasing garments at so-called internet malls. This study was to provide basic information helpful in clothing study by finding out dissatisfactory factors of adolescence purchasing clothes through internet malls. This survey was done among 273 students of 3 junior-high schools and 3 high schools within the boundary of Seoul and its suburb area, among which 265 of them were qualified as legitimate survey. The results were as follows. First, the youth shopping trends were divided into the 5 categories according to the basic trends. And the 5 categories were 'Convenience seeking', 'Peer-assimilating', 'Personality/trend worshipping', 'Passive and inactive', and 'Thrifty' The survey represented that girls showed higher garment assimilating rate and made better economic choices than boys did. The survey also showed that the highschool students used internet shopping mall in order to seek better prices. furthermore, the primary targets of the juvenile internet shopping were shoes and garments, which includes both upper and lower clothing. Second, The dissatisfaction factors of internet shopping were the 'Mismatch of the goods in the screen and those of the real life', 'Exchange/Refund', 'Qualify', 'Desigin and color', 'Shipping', and 'Size' in order of biggest to the smallest. The dissatisfaction rate was higher among the groups of 'Thrifty', 'Personality/Trend worshipping', 'Convenience seeking', girls and highschool goers.

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중국 성인여성용 의류치수규격 설정 연구 (제II보) - 20대 연령집단을 중심으로 -

  • Wee, Hye-Jung;Sohn, Hee-Soon
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.12 no.4
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    • pp.56-72
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    • 2008
  • The purpose of this study was to provide with the useful fundamental data by developing the appearl sizing system according to body types for the Women's Wear Specifications(GB/T 1335.2-1997), National Standards of People's Republic of China. Thus, it was to improve of the garment fit and coverage rate for the apparel production assortment and stock of exporting domestic clothing to China. For this study, 581 female women aged in their twenties who lived in Beijing and Shanghai were selected for the development of the apparel sizing system who resident in Beijing and Shanghai in China. As for the method of this study was made three primary items(length, bust girth, waist girth) and seven secondary items. Data analysis were processed by SPSS WIN 10.0 Program was used. The research selected 3 major body measurements, such as stature, bust girth, waist girth and 7 secondary measurements to investigate the body features of the Chinese adult women. The data throughout the study were analyzed by using SPSS WIN version 10.0 S/W. The result were as follows: The clothes dimensions for upper and lower body and the coverage rate of body size that had the highest appearance ratio from the selected age group in 20's were: Y-type 160-84 155-64(5.9%) and the section 160cm 22.6%, A-type 160-80 160-62(39%) and the section 160cm 27.9%, B-type 155-80 155-66(6.2%) and the section 160cm 24.7%. The representative size codes of the Chinese adult women aged in their 20's were set for representing certain body dimensions such as 150-76A 150-60A(0.0%), 155-80A 155-64A(2.4%), 160-84A 160-68A(3.9%), 165-88A 165-72A(0.3%), 170-92A 170-76A(0.0%). The production coverage rates for the each representative size codes were S size the section 150cm 1.5%, M size the section 155cm 15.3%, L size the section 160cm 36.0%, XL size the section 165cm 29.7%, XXL size the section 170cm 11.4% that covered 93.9%.

A Study on form of 'collar' in the China and Mongolian Traditional OverCoat & National Costume -Focusing on 13th Century's- (중국 및 몽고제국의 포제와 민족복에 나타난 ' 깃 (옷깃)'에 대한 연구 -13세기를 중심으로-)

  • 김은주
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.19
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    • pp.209-240
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    • 1992
  • The costume of any nation is an attribute of a culture. This study concerns chinese and Mongolian costume's 'collar' form according to the observation of some reports about import folk materials and the pictures of the genuine objects, the author has investigated and rearranged them focusing on 13th Century's. 1. Traditional OverCoat or National costume on the poing of won dynasty in china such as Jacket, Coat, Mantle for making classical matching color, lacing, pearl pieces, and all costume shall be properly decorated and disigned. The example, Chinese Women's Gown and Double Jacket, on top of alignment of plaid, focus shall be placed on chinese classical form and color-matching, such as flowers and bireds, butterflies, made wishing ornaments, which shall be either hand painted or embroidered on collars, fronts, sleeves openings, and lower portion of gown. 2. Mongolian Costume, the stone status of a person, are seen at the territory of the Republic of Mongolia was a powerful country of Asia. So during the Mongolian Empire a lot of Missions from many countries came to kharakorom for establishing official relations between Mongolia and a country represented by mission. In particularly, the costume of mongols on the point of Chinggis khan Empire which the upper clothes in cluded ; a several kinds of the Caftan as compared with in Korea as to material (Silk caftan, Cotton Caftan, Fur Caftan) with closing to the right due to overlapping and Stand-up-Shawl Collars will pancho style & Round or V Neckline. 3. As compared with in Korea it is said that this a sort of Simui was brought in prior to the middle of Koryeo dynasty. Korean Simui system was complied with chinese system through confucian domestic behaviour. This was respected for court dress of confucian scholars, as it was, Chumri can ordinary dress of schloars) and Hakchangui ( a uniform of confucian student). Generally its form or shape of the outer lapels of Korean jacket were used together Squar-Tray-Collar. In late Yi-dynasty the inside collar length was longer than the outside collar length and the width of the collar was gradually narrow. And so the Traditional costume's outer collar of Jacket and OverCoat became small while the width and length of breast-tie became large. The same thing as the form of the collar on these days had been appeared by the design method or adjust one's dress. Therefore the form of collar in the china and Mongolian Traditional OverCoat & National Costume is fix arranged according to Stand up Collar, Without Collar, Clothing to the Right, Central opening, Horizontal Row of Button with Round or V Neckline and so on.

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