• 한국패션뷰티학회지
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• 제5권3호
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• pp.92-98
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• 2007

This study analyzes the women's hair style and costume in late Chosun Dynasty appeared in Shin Yoon Bok' genre painting. Conclusions are as follows; First, in case of woman costume, the Jergori was short and the Chima was too long. The trend of simplified clothes on upper body and abundant clothes on lower body appeared. In addition, as 'geodulchima' became popular, women came to of en show an erotic beauty by exposing their underwear below chima. Second, in the women's hair style appeared in Shin Yoon Bok' genre painting, a unmarried woman did the braids and a feme covert did 'Ungeon Meori' and 'Tremeori'(a swept-back hair with the chignon) regardless of status. We can imagine the women's hair styles of a higher class who imitated those of 'Kie-sangs' through the features of Kie-sangs who were illustrated by Shin yoon bok.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제20권2호
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• pp.311-322
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• 1996

To accomodate workers with efficient mobility, coveralls were redesigned, construted and evaluated. In this study, especially, image processing techniques were applied to the evaluation stage, to quantify thE ease of body movement. For the initial observation stage, car-center workers were interviewed and their movements were videotaped. By analyzing the videotape, the area of stress and strains on the work clothes were marked on the figure chert and considered for the pattern making. 4DM cut pattern were applied to the upper part of the work clothes and other alternations were made throughout the problem area. Honey comb slashes were made on the problem area of the original and newly designed coveralls. Open areas of honey comb slashes due to body movement between the original and newly designed coveralls were analyzed by image processing techniques. Other objective and subjective evaluation of newly designed coveralls was compared with the original one. Overall evaluation of functionally designed coveralls was appered to be positive and the image processing techiques were useful methology to quantify the amount of stress in this study.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제19권6호
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• pp.911-923
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• 1995

The zone of expansion and contraction of arm surfaces was analyzed, the correlation between arm surface changes was studied, and ergonomic sleeve designs were presented in which the consideration of body surface changes is emphasized. Experiments were carried out which include 43 upper extremity segments, 21 motions and 35 female subjects. The major conclusions of the study are as follows : 1. As a sleeve drafting method, detailed measures should be applied on the base of the sensitivity of body surface changes. The range of arm surface changes can be divided into three zones : concentrated expansion zone, zone of little change, and contraction part. The maximum expansion zone was the upper part of elbow. 2. The correlations were higher in lengths than in circumferences. Arm lengths were mainly correlated with upper arms. The more detailed the arm surface was, the lower the correlations between surface changes were. So there was not a lot of relation between segment changes. Tendency of body surface changes depended on the anatomical structure of the upper extremity and the movements of arm muscles. 3. As an application of measures and ease, ergonomic sleeve designs weve presented in which arm surface changes were considered. Ergonomic sleeve designs are recommended for working clothes and sports wear.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제3권
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• pp.13-24
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to examine the changes brought by the upper body form using a three-dimensional human body measurement the gypsum method. The developed plane figure was constructed using paper replica to analyze the dimensional shape of the upper torso and to be able to design clothes suitable for elderly women's physical characteristics. The characteristics are analyzed and compared with existing patterns in order to extract the components for the pattern design. The examination was carried out based on the developed plane figures of upper body surface replicas. Type 1, the bent-forward body form, has a wide gap on the shoulder. In Type 2, the gap of waist line was wide at angulus scapulae point. Type 3 was the thin body form, and the girth of the chest, front interscye breadth and back interscye breadth were more level with one another, compared to the other types. In Type 4, the bent-backward body form, there was a wide gap on front shoulder. Comparison with the developed plane figure and existed pattern, items revealed differences in significance included the front and back interscye width between the measured values of the existed patterns and the developed plane figure. Therefore, the basic components of basic bodice pattern for old women were determined in the up-bust circumference and length of the back.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제11권3호
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• pp.273-285
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• 2002

Three materials for sport underwear were manufactured by order for study, and among them, suitable material in order to perform an experiment on the effect of wearing was adopted. The results are as follows: The result of wearing an experimental clothes for sports manufactured as a foundation-type underwear for sports showed that if the same compositional materials were applied, laminating material had higher rate than that of others in the amount of sweat. Concerning relative humidity in clothes and the amount of sweat absorbed in clothes among the two kinds of materials which were produced by laminate, material 2(nylon+modal) was statistically exerts higher influence on the amount of sweat. The humidity in clothes keeps the optimal condition of 59.8%, and breast part showed the highest relative humidity. The material 2(nylon+modal) showed the highest comfortableness, the sense of warmth, humidity and voluminousness, and the sense of pressure. Follow-up survey revealed that in case of material 2, higher amount of sweat than that of the group objects in its early phase, and the amount of sweat varies from individuals. The temperature in clothes of folded parts of experimental clothes and maximum surface temperature was equivalent to that of average skin. With the lapse of time, the weight decreased of 11.03% in maximum, and 3.12% in minimum. The amount of change in the girth was greater in part of body frame than that of limbs, and especially, navel and waist part showed high decrease, and upper breast, breast and the largest part of abdomen showed relatively low decrease. The above experiment revealed that materials for suitable to the underwear for sports for loss of weight by an exercise should be made of doubled-nylon and modal, along with the laminate processing, which heightens the amount of sweat. Thus, wearing an experimental wear gave satisfaction in the view of the beauty of appearance as it did not discharge flowing secretion to the outside at the time of exercise.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.140-159
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• 1994

Heraldry, which originated from the culture of knights in the 12th century, came to be drawn on shields, and was inherited as a symbol of the family at the end of the 12th century and developed rapidly through the 13th and 14th century. Afterwards heraldry was in great vogue and used in the shields, clothes of men and women, armors, housings and flags. Therefore the citizen class as well as nobles and knights came to possess heraldry. In particular parti-color and impaled coat were accepted in the clothes, and served the dual purpose of status symbol and ornament in the 13th century. It can be said that the appearance of heraldry on the clothes was typical of the Middle Ages. The origin, generally accepted, was that the crusaders wore the surcots, also known as the cyclases, on the armors to prevent the powerful sun of Syria and dust of deserts, and to prevent the armors from rusting due to moisture. As the surcot was made of white linen or white silk till the beginning of the 13th century, knight's heraldry came to be put on the surcot in order to identify each corps. According as the coat of mail covering all the body was devised, the same heraldry attached on the shield seemed to appear on the clothes of surcot or jupon(afterwards pourpoint) in order to identify the status in the battlefield and tournament. Heraldry, a system of mark in the 12th century, was used as a symbol of authority of the upper class such as the Royal House, nobles and knights, and may have been mysterious instruments in the Milddle Ages. However, in the modern times of the 20th century heraldry has come to be a kind of symbol marks such as badges and banners symbolizing the hallmark of the goods of enterprises, organizations and groups. Heraldry, existing up to now, of the individuals as well as international organizations can be seen as a result of deep-rooted tradition for esthetic appreciation and symbolism for heraldry.

• 복식
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• 제55권6호
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• pp.67-81
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to evaluate a sizing system of ready-to-wear clothes for middle-school girls. Results of the study are as follows. 1. Results of the survey revealed most middle-school girls preferred garments for women like unisex-casual and young-casual, and prioritized overall style and design over sizing issues. However, when they purchased clothes, they were dissatisfied with the poor fit of ready-to-wear clothing, which is a little too big for average middle-school girls. 2. There is a difference between a brand's target age and its average consumer age. $96.7\%$, of respondents purchased clothes from unisex-casual and young-casual brands, which sizes did not fit for them. Most of these brands had female adults ages 18 to 24 as their targets, whose somatotypes do not correspond with those of girls 12 to 15 years old. 3. Body measurements of those in age groups from 12 to 15 and from 10 to 24 were analyzed to identify physical differences between middle-school girls and female adults, which confirmed the relevance of different sizing systems for each age group. As a result, it is undesirable that middle school girls' clothes are designed in accordance with sizing system for female adults' garments. 4. Using the two-wav distribution of middle school girls' stature-bust circumference for upper garments, and stature-waist circumference for lower garments, this study establishes a sizing system in sections of high frequency. The size intervals of stature and circumference were 5cm and 3cm respectively.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.66-76
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• 1998

In order to investigate the effect of shoulder pad affecting the arm movement, eleven women volunteers of standard body whose age is from eighteen to twenty-four(x±1σ) were chosen and this experiment had done according to front-vertical motion, side-vertical motion and horizontal motion of upper limps for tow different materials of shoulder pad(sponge, non-woven) and four different thickness of shoulder pad(0.6cm, 0.8cm, 1.2cm). On the base of this, this study, when putting on shoulder pad, try to find the reform method of shoulder part pattern. The results are as follows. 1. When puting on shoulder pad to blouse pattern to rise shoulder pad for rate of two-third per thickness is seemingly the best for sensory evaluation. So, when putting on shoulder pad, we understand that in order to improve sensory evaluation. So, when putting on shoulder pad, we understand that in order to improve sensory evaluation of clothes, when that, rising shoulder pad for ate of two-third per thickness is the best. 2. From the results of measure of functional volume and physiological value for functionality evaluation according to thickness and material, motion of shoulder pad, 1.2 cm thickness and non-woven material is evaluated the worst for functionality. 3. From the results of sensory evaluation and functionality evaluation of material of shoulder pad, sponge material is superior for functionality but not for sensory evaluation, non-woven material is superior for sensory evaluation non-woven material is superior for sensory evaluation but not for functionality. So, think that it had better use sponge material for functional clothes, non-woven material for aesthetical clothes. 4. From the results of functionality of clothes, when putting on shoulder pad, the worst discomfortable parts are the armpit part and the shawl part, functionality of these part shoulder be reformed.

• 복식
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• 제28권
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• pp.99-112
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• 1996

In this study I purpose a new approach to the study of Korean costume history which includes a statistical method used in the prac-tical measurement of excavated Po's and the analysis of their quantitative changes. In the framework used in this study I de-pend on the nineteen variables picked out from the typological and chronological analysis of excavated clothes. The interrelationship of the variables as well as the standard of each part and its deviation in other forms are may main concern. Other methods are also very useful in my thesis: Correlation analysis Regression analysis Discrimination analysis Cluster analysis Discrimination analysis Cluster analysis Factor analysis One way analysis of variance. The findings of my study can be summarized as follows: 1. Every type of po has a general tendency to have more broadened sleeves while it does not show any considerable changes in the total length and in the width of armholes. 2. In the Correlation analysis each part of Po's is handled separately accordign to its chronology and type. The Regreesion analysis makes it possible to provide the sizes of miss-ing parts in excavated clothes and the numeri-cal value of each part needed in the pattern making. 3. The Discrimination analysis of the Po's whose types are unknown leads to the con-clusion that Chongsam and Chikryong Po are classified into Chikryong Po whereas Hongui is classified into Jooui In addition I propose discriminational function by which the age classification is possible discovering the variables associated with time change. 4. Five items-Gerneral Park's clothes Taewongun's clothes and three others produced later for the purpose of preserving Korean costume are proved to be in a differ-ent group and hence analyzed separately in the visual grouping of changui which is done after the cluster analysis and the factor analysis. 5. The results of the one way analysis of variance reveal that there is a difference in each part from period: the back width the sleeve length the sleeve width thelean fig-ure the breasttie length the breasttie width outside quesset upper inside quesset lower outside neckband length insideneckband length etc.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제6권3호
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• pp.169-183
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• 2004

This study attempts to understand women's underwear culture in the Later Chosun Dynasty, by investigating the kinds and constructions of them, which formed bulky and puffed silhouette of the lower half of the body. In the middle 17th century in Chosun, Confucianism settled down as fundamental idea of society, while whole country achieved considerable economic growth. As a result for upperclass women, female virtues was demanded more than any other period in Chosun. On the other hand, lower-class women including Kisaengs, had more freedom on their clothing behaviors. According to the literature on women's dress institutions and restrictions of the extravagance, the use of kinds of high-quality silk and false hair was criticized, compared to women's clothes in China. From this, one can see the luxury and affluence of women's clothes at that time, which also reflected in luxurious underclothes. Also, the movement of class, by economic development, led to changes in the costumes of middle-to-lower class women, relaxing restrictions on clothes. Underclothes included Bosomband(가슴띠; long sashes for bosom to wrap), Sokjucksam(속적삼), and Sokchogori(속저고리; Korean blouse, worn under the chogori) for upper garment, and Darisokkok(다리속곳; basic underwear like the panty), Soksokkot(속속곳; underwear paji to be wide of hem), Sokpaji(속바지;trouser front and back opening), Tansokkok(단속곳; large size underwear like Soksokkot), Noronpaji(너른바지; paji like the skirt or paji bulky than tansokkot,), Mujigi무지기; tiered skirt for underwear), and Daeshumchi'ma(대슘치마; Korean underskirt, shape hem as a pad into form) for lower clothes.