• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제21권2호
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• pp.203-208
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• 2019

This paper considers the moisture permeability and fashion in the upper fabrics of cotton fabric shoes woven into various tissues and properties measured to examine the use as upper fabrics. We measured the tissues of the manufactured upper fabric are 1/3 twill, $4{\times}4$ weft rib, Maya, Triple, Deformed twill design (DTD), Diamond tissues and tear strength, tensile strength, breaking elongation, stretching under load at 100N, stitch tear resistance, and fastness. In the case of $4{\times}4$ weft rib, the tear strength and tensile strength were excellent; however, the elongation and stitch tear resistance at 100N load were less than the standard value. DTD fabrics are characterized by physical properties in the warp direction that are superior to those in the weft direction; however, the tear strength and tensile strength in the weft direction are less than the standard value. The 1/3 twill fabrics showed high tensile strength value and stitch tear resistance value in the warp direction; however, toughness, the main property of the shoe upper, was below the standard value. Triple and diamond fabrics, which have a significant effect on the performance of the shoe upper fabric, also had less than the standard value of tear strength. Maya upper fabric for shoes has better properties than other upper fabrics except for the elongation at break, and the stitch tear resistance has a value of 178% in the warp direction and 214% in the weft direction compared to the standard value. Therefore, the Maya fabric showed the possibility of being used as an upper textile for shoes.

• 한국잠사곤충학회지
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• 제28권2호
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• pp.65-73
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• 1986

본 연구는 Methacrylate monomer를 실크직유 속에서 중합시킴으로서 실크의 방추도를 향상시킬 목적으로 진행되었으며 이 목적을 달성하기 위하여 다음 몇가지 시료직물을 원포와 가공포로 분류하고 세탁을 반복함에 따른 방추도, 강연도 및 세탁수축도를 조사하였다. (1)Polyester, Geogette, 직물밀도…90cm-85g/m (2)Silk, Twill, 정사견, 박지, 직물밀도…90cm-90g/m (3)Silk, Twill, 정사견, 후지, 직물밀도…90cm-200g/m (4)Silk, Satin, 정사견, 박지, 직물밀도…90cm-90g/m 얻어진 결과를 종합하면 다음과 같다. (1)가공처리한 견직물들의 방추도는 원포의 것보다 약 10%의 증가를 보였다. (2)박지견직물의 방추도가 만족할 만치 개선되었으나 후지견직물은 다소 미흡한 결과이였다. (3)강연도는 가공견직물들의 촉감이 손상되지 않는 범위에서 가공된 사실을 확인하기 위하여 한 것인바 문제점이 없었다. (4)세탁후의 수축도는 모든 견직물이 polyester 보다 크게 나왔는데 그 이유는 견직물의 공장정리공정에 tenter처리로 물리적 증폭된 것을 원포로 썼기 때문으로 본다. (5)각 직물의 방추도, 강연도 및 방추도가 세탁반복에 따라 다소간 나쁜 방향으로 변하고 있는 결과를 보았는데 이것은 직유의 취화처리에도 원인이 있다고 본다. (6)결론적으로 견직물을 수지가공했다고 세탁해서 착용할 것이 아니라 역시 dry deaning을 하여 가공효과를 유지하는 것이 상책으로 본다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제7권4호
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• pp.433-438
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• 2005

Seven commercial lining fabrics normally used in a market were selected: plain-weave fabrics with polyester, nylon, rayon and acetate fiber, and polyester textured yarn, in addition, polyester fabrics with plain, twill and satin weave. Then seam strength, seam efficiency, resistance to slippage of yarns and type of seam destruction were examined related to endurance by textiles in sewing capability of the lining fabrics. In results, as tensile strength was greater, seam strength got greater, which shows tensile strength and seam strength have close relationship. Tensile and seam strength of acetate fabric were the least, but seam efficiency was the greatest. It presents that strong tensile and seam strengths do not show high seam efficiency at the same time. Various types of seam destruction have been shown. When tensile strength of the sewing thread was greater than tensile strength of fabric, fabric destruction was occurred before the sewing thread destruction. When tensile strength of the fabric was greater than seam strength, the sewing thread destruction was occurred. Resistance to slippage of yarns got greater as tensile strength of the fabric got greater. The plain-weave fabric, which tensile strength of fabric was smaller, showed the greater resistance to slippage of yarns than twill and satin weave fabrics. The stretch fabric revealed the optimal lining fabric with the greatest resistance to slippage of yarns.

• 복식
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• 제56권1호
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• pp.32-43
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• 2006

Excavated fabrics from Papyeung-yun's tomb totals at 208 in their numbers. They comprised 118 pieces of silk tabby(紬), 16 pieces of thin silk tabby, 8 pieces of thin filament silk tabby (絹), 43 pieces of satin damask(段), 8 pieces of compound satin(金線), 1 piece of twill(綾), 1 piece of complex gauze(羅), l piece of simple gauze(紗), 4 pieces of cotton(綿布), 4 pieces of hemp(麻布) and 3 pieces of ramie(苧布). As shown in the preceding list, $95\%$ of all the items are weaved from silk. To list a few characteristics of excavated fabrics from Papyoung-Yun's lineage, there are A vivid gold-colored compound satin, a uniquely patterned satin damask, various silk tabbies, and 4-end complex gauze of Neoul that is women's head cover. To note, names of the fabrics used in this article are based on the information from the literatures and are as following silk tabby(紬), thin silk tabby, filament silk tabby(絹), satin damask(段), compound satin(金線), complex gauze(羅), simple gauze(紗), cotton(綿布), twill(綾), hemp(麻布)and ramie(苧布).

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.206-216
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• 1997

The purpose of this study was to determine the pore size distributions (PSDs) of polyester woven fabrics by using liquid extraction method. Three types of PSDs-percent PSD, PSD per unit area of sample and PSD per unit weight of sample-were evaluated. Plain, twill and satin polyester fabrics with various fabric counts were used as specimens. Results showed that the interyarn PSDs reflected the fabric characteristics such as the fabric count and the weave type and the intrayarn PSDs reflected the thread characteristics such as the number of fibers, the fiber diameter, the thread diameter and the thread twist. Of three types of PSDs, the PSD per unit area of sample best reflect fabric and thread characteritics. As the fabric count decreased, rc increased and interyarn pore volume increased. The PSDs were skewed to the small pore sizes and the pore volumes decreased in the order of plain> twill> satin. As the number of fibers, the fiber diameter and the thread twist decreased, the intrayarn pore volumes were increased.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제23권3호
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• pp.219-226
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• 2011

Recently, study of functional clothing for vital sensing is focused on improving conductivity and decreasing resistance, in order to enhance the electrocardiogram(ECG) sensing accuracy and obtained stable environmental durability on operation condition. In this study, four ECG fabrics that having different componnt yarns and weaving structures were produced to analyze their environmental durabilities and electric properties under general operation conditions including different physical and chemical stimulation. For outstanding electric properties and physical properties, the optimized ECG sensing fabric should consist of a fabric of 2 up 3 down twill structure containing 210de silver-coated conductive yarns and polyester yarn in warp and weft directions respectively. The selected fabric has $0.11{\Omega}$ which is relative lower resistance than otherwisely produced fabrics under ECG measurement condition. And it has 7% stable resistance changes under 25% strain and repeated strain.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제8권4호
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• pp.400-406
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to investigate characteristics of arrangement methods and weaving types of fabrics during 16-17 century. Research was done through the references of exhumed clothing in Chosun Dynesty. Seeing the waving types of fabrics of flower patterned fabrics of total 108 items, satin damask(Dahn) was 71items, took the majority. And the next order was twill(Neung) and plain(Ju). It means Dahn was the most popular fabric among the upper classes. It was regarded as one of the noble textiles, because of its luxurious appearance and pleasant touch. Flower patterned plain fabric(Munju) was found only 9items, even though the plain fabric was the most common used type. Assumed for the reason, Chosun government had restrict to extravagance of the people. In terms of the arrangement of flower pattern, it can be classified into three methods. The most common arrangement method was Arabesque type, followed by open order shaped type and scattering shaped type. In the repetition of pattern, there were brick-shaped pattern and half drop pattern which were spread flower pattern all over the surface of fabric.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제11권4호
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• pp.381-389
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• 2002

This research was designed to investigate the preference to textiles for slacks of college students. 105 subjects majored in fashion design were surveyed. Subjects selected three favorite materials among 120 samples presented in swatch book and weighted frequency and percentage were added by order. The extent of preference was compared by season and sex. The results of this study were as follows: 1. College students preferred twill cotton Drill foremost as a textile for spring and fall season. 2. Plain linen Crash was the most preferred material for summer. 3. Cotton Corduroy was the most preferred textile for winter. 4. In thickness and weight, textiles for winter were thicker and heavier than those of other seasons. 5. In fiber content, natural fiber such as wool were preferred for all seasons. 6. In weave of textiles, twill weave fabric was preferred for spring fall and winter season, and plain weave for summer. 7. College students preferred plain texture materials foremost and navy blue and black color was preferred for textiles for slacks. 8. Girl students preferred cotton fabrics and boys preferred wool fabric for slacks. Also, girls generally preferred thinner fabrics than those of boys.

• 복식
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• 제61권2호
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• pp.88-101
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• 2011

This study emphasizes on the characteristics of the excavated fabrics from the tomb of Kimwhoak in the late 16th and early 17th centuries. All of 118 kinds of fabrics are used in excavated costume from the tomb of Kimwhoak. Classified by its materials, it is divided into small groups as follows: 63 pieces of spun silk tabby(53.6%), 14 of spun yarn silk(11.9%), 13 of thin filament silk tabby(11.0%), 8 of thin silk tabby(6.8%), 4 of satin without pattern(3.4%), 3 of filament silk tabby(2.5%), 3 of twill without pattern(2.5%), 2 of satin damask(1.7%), 2 of mixture fabric with silk and cotton(1.7%), and 2 of ramie fabric(1.7%), 1 of simple gauze without pattern(0.8%), 1 of damask with supplementary gold thread(0.8), 1 of cotton(0.8%), 1 of etc(0.8%). Classified by ways of weaving: 106 pieces of plain weave(89%), 6 of satin weave(5%), 3 of twill weave (3%), 1 of gauze weave(1%), 1 of compound weave(1%) and etc(1%). In point of patterns, the most of textiles are without pattern, there are only two of them are patterned textile. such as lotus patterns with vine, peony patterns with vine. Their patterns are very similar to those of other tombs in the same age.

• 복식
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• 제64권5호
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• pp.141-153
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• 2014

Buddhist articles from various periods in the Vairochana Buddha statues, which are currently housed in the Haeinsa Temple's Supreme Buddha Hall and Beopbojeon Hall. This research concentrates on the artifacts found inside the storage boxes, which was placed inside the Buddha statues in 1490. A total of 24 pieces of fabric articles found inside the Virochana Buddha in Beopbojeon and 213 pieces from the Supreme Buddha Hall were examined. The types of textiles are as follows: bast fiber, silk, cotton, and union cloth. Bast fiber consisted of ramie and hemp. For silk, tabby woven with plain weave, spun silk, and thin tabby were found. And twill damask made with twill, Sa and Ra with the leno weave, and satin damask made with the satin weave were also found. Also the two Jeogoris and three Jogakbos were found, the one Jeogori was made with Hwan. The Buddhist articles in the Vairochana Buddha of Haeinsa have been preserved well and its colors have remained virtually the same from the time of its original placement. Therefore these articles are very important in understanding the textile characteristics, weaving techniques, dying techniques as well as traditional colors.