• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.85-95
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• 2022

This study aimed to clarify relationships between the westernization of military uniform systems and changes in the textile import industry during the Eulmi reforms of clothing regulation. For the goal, the study investigated the content and features of that had been enacted under the Eulmi reforms. It also examined the status of the textile import industry at the time, especially in relation to outer garments such as jackets or Eui, trousers or Go, and overcoats. Moreover, this study inspected how the above westernization changed the textile import industry. More specifically, the research analyzed the content of based on articles from the then state newsletter or 『Gwanbo』, and the then cabinet meeting or Euijeongbu's proceedings or 『Euiju』. Concerning the textile import industry, this study looked into relevant descriptions and trade statistics from 『KOPEИ(Hankukji)』, and analyzed changes in that industry in connection with the introduction of Western military uniform systems. As a result, this study found that increased imports of cotton fabrics during the Eulmi reforms of clothing regulation was correlated with surging demand for shirt or lining materials and increase in the use of Myeonyung following military uniform westernization. Similarly, an increase in silk fabric imports was an outcome of increased demand for lining materials. Also, the import growth of woolen fabrics was seemingly attributed to the use of Heuknasa and Heukyung as basic materials of military uniforms. Thus, military uniforms began to be made of fabrics, which hadn't been used before in the wake of westernization. This development brought changes in the textile import industry, which is supported by textile import statistics of the time. In conclusion, the westernization of military uniform systems under the Eulmi reforms of clothing regulation was a significant factor that changed the industry.

• Human Ecology Research
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• v.60 no.2
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• pp.273-287
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• 2022

(K)Hanbok, which is Korea's traditional clothing, differs from the Chinese Hanfu or Japanese Kimono. This study aims to understand the fundamental differences between (K)Hanbok and Hanfu. The Goryeo Dynasty (K)Hanbok, which was particularly popular in China, was established because the Ming Dynasty Hanfu and Chinese fashion were considerably influenced by the 'Koryo Yang'. Firstly, while (K)Hanbok is bulky, Hanfu of the Han Dynasty is characterized by forming a slim silhouette. Due to the climate of the Northern Hemisphere, (K)Hanbok shows a rich silhouette comprising multiple layers of inner pants and a pleated skirt over a voluminous underskirt. On the other hand, the Han's Hanfu creates a straight silhouette in the form of a wrap, revealing the contours of the body. The pleated skirt of the (K)Hanbok can use six to twelve width fabrics, depending on the social position; however, the Hanfu of the Han is a skirt without any pleats. Secondly, the clothing patterns, which have various shapes, are totally different in how they are made and sewn. The Korean (K)Hanbok is a two-piece separate, whereas the Chinese Hanfu style is a one-piece with a skirt. The short length of the (K)Hanbok jacket has a Sup which is cut and pasted allowing the front closure to overlap. Nevertheless, the Hanfu of the Han does not have this Sup because it is of a wrap-around, one-piece style and has an exceptionally large front, and wraps around at the waist which extends to the sides. Thirdly, the (K)Hanbok jacket has separate string Gorums for fastening, and an additional belt around the waist; however, in the case of Gorum, it is unnecessary for a wrapping style of Hanfu. Fourthly, Koreans as an agricultural horse-riding people, basically wore the trousers attached a comfortable gusset, while the Chinese Hanfu had no pants, but the Chinese wore Gaedanggo pants which exposed the hips, inevitably during the Warring States period.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.35
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• pp.45-66
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• 1997

This thesis is a study on the kaftan styles iin Asia. The purpose of he study was to examine the origin o the kaftan concentrating on the history and cultural backgrounds of nomads in he Western Central and North Eastern Asia. Secondly for more thorough study and expla-nation on how these kaftans contributed to East-West trade along the silk road. wall paintings and miniature illuminations along Oasis roads persia and Saracen period were compared, Also real kaftans were compared and analyzed the characteristics of Western (Turkey palestine) Central(Kazakistan Uz-bekistan Tadzhistan Qyrgyztan Turkmenistan) and the North Eastern Asian(Mongol) area. Thirdly an attempt has been made to provide the North Eastern Asian(Mongol) area. Thirdly an attempt has been made to provide the style classifications according to their peculiarities of the various kaftans as well as how kaftan gave important influences on custumes of different religious sects. The kaftan is a long coat-like garment with front openings fastened with long sash having an extra long sleeves which were worn by middle and high class nomadics throughout the West Central and North Eastern Asia This type of kaftans were a basic clothing for nomadics since they were constantly moving fromone to another areas on their horse back riding. They also wore tight trousers with boots. Kaftans seem to be originated from nomads of Steppe around B.C. 800 On B. C 400 west asian areas such as Solokha Kul-oba Kulogan had pictures sculptues on vases showing kaftans of half coat type length with front opening tied with band. Also the materials used were the products of animals such as wool or felt with animal designs showing Scythian nomads. In the North Eastern Asia Hsiung-Nu were active in Kazakha North Altai and Mongol The Clothing and fabrics exfavated near Noin-ula Pazyrik showed many samples of kaftan with trousers with other interment be-longings with a corpse around B.C 300 to A. D 100 when trades along the silk roads were proven by many historians Kaftans excavated in this area wore red front opening silk materials which suggesting settling down of nomads. in he central Asia Dol-gull near Altai mountain area were mainly miners who later had many trades with Persia and Bizantine. After Dol-gull Bezeklik temple Samarkant Kizil cow Budda sculture wall paintings of Astana tomb showed typical kaftan of this re-gion. These were both hip covered length as well as long coat with narrow sleeves. Es-pecially they had different color band fron the main kaftan with grogeously and splendously designed silk. In perusia during A. D 1400 to 1600 minia-ture illumination showed kaftan as a high class symbol more than clothing purpose. They had best quality silk with extra long sleeves draping and had a layers of kaftans one on top of anther as a symbol of wealth These Kaftans with different colors and designs were even more beautiful with their effective combinations and contrast of colors. On the other hand the lower class common people and servants wore simple kaftan with the front part of the kaftan were slipped into the belt in order to be more active and con-venient to work, The real kaftans discovered at Topkapi Saray palace of Turkey from A. D 1300 to 1900 were also compared. These kaftans were very numerous in numbers as well as designs The materials and designs used were also vari-ous such as Chinese to Italian silk. The shaped and pattern itself were not much different from the previous nomad's Kaftans. The Palestian kaftans remained were from the beginning of 19th and 20th century. Since this area is hot and dry desert they used black and navy blue colors mostly in order to exclude the sun lights. The patterns used were similar to Nomads and Bedouin with cross stiches and patch work decorations. In the central Asia they had similar life style and natural environmental cnditions with Turkish tribe which resulted in similar kaftan styles as nomads. Mongols conserved basic patterns of kaftan since Cinggis Khan with deep folding in order to keep warm. At last the kaftans studided in this thesis were classified in to four such as half coat long coat jacket and vest style. A pattern used in the Central Asia were zigzag and ani-mal design whereas in the West Asia were floral plant arabesk and circle pattern. As I discussed previously kaftan styles of nomads in the Asia maintained its basic pat-tern throughout the history except slight changes in color gusset sleeve shapes. These slight changes were made according to the need to adapt the need of environmental natu-ral conditions, The reason for aboriginality of kaftan in Asia was its simplicity and con-venience Most interesting fact is that for all these years Mongols are still wearing kaftan in their life ensuring us that they art the preserves of old kaftan. Since this thesis dealt enormous Asian regions I had a limitation of not being able to cover the Far Esatern asian areas such as Korea China and Japan how these kaftans were influenced in their clothing history as well as Eastern and Western culture. This topic along with the studies on materials and designs of patterns of kaftan will be another research project in the future.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.14
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• pp.145-165
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• 1990

This study examine closely conditions of costume between the Modernized period and Liberation with newspaper materials. Because newspaper generally appear society conditions in those days on rapid and across-the boad basis. The Modernized period is extremely change among history of costum (ordinance prohibiting top knots, allowance of foreign clothes putting on). Because this change have been spontaneously not by internal desired but Western input by the strong nation of imperialism to enclose Chosun, they was accepted by the general public later under the rule of Japaneses Imperialism. Consequently, study of costume play an important part periods between the Japanese annexation of Korea and Liberation. This study apply to newspaper characteric for costume, and closely examine an important costum condition of those days next time, and present costume material in those days that composed the account catalog appeared periods between the first publication(1920) of the Dong A II Bo, and in the year 1945, it is as follows. 1. Foreign clothes of men generally accept the general public on look at from form change, in the 1920's had come short Jackets and narrow throusers into fashion, in the 1930's had come trousers of generous waist band with broads shoulder and long Jackets. Catalog of Major clothes is as follows; Spring coat, Jacket, Vest, Shirt, etc. While pants had come trousers into fashion 2. Functional characteric of Foreign clothes was the possible acceptance of women's foreign clothes. It relate with much discussion to improve Korean development in those days and substitute foreign clothes for Korean clothes because of institence in those days to improve functional clothes life. 3. An improvement women's Korean clothes generally take aim at women's nipple liberation, substitute vest waist for skirt waist, appear seamless one-piece skirt of shade length, and long dress length of Jacket. 4. Children's clothes give an account of functional and sanitary conditions, handling method, washing method. 5. Clothes materials give account of foreign clothes material, artificial silk, furs, cotton fabrics, and etc. 6. Clothes management give an account of washing, keeping method, washing method of foreign clothes, and keeping of furs. 7. The hair generaly had come short hair into fashion in men's case, while accounts on long hair fashion of foreign nation effect in case of women. 8. Describing on beauty care manage primary beauty care, reform, plastic operation, and shade beauty care. Ideal beauty care deal with natural and dignified buauty care. 9. Accesaries (hat, handbag, handkerchief, gloves) change with fashion of clothes, it rapid more than clothes fashion. 10. On encouragement of abolition of white clothes and putting on dyeing clothes, because of economic defect of white clothes, psychology and beauty consequently, white clothes is on the rise abolition. In national level almost substitute dyeing clothes for control and improvement of people of all social standings consequently, dress and its ornaments conditions in those days analyzed account of Dong-A II Bo accept the foreign clothes that introduced internal country of the whole century, and substitute dyeing for white clothes. Costume condition in those days appear the mixed conditions of Korean clothes and Foreign clothes. In the 1920's is the first consideration dress and its ornaments form of Korean clothes. As later goes on foreign is given much weight in the whole clothes life. Account of foreign clothes managemental ways appear in the 1920's, while those facts prove the point that appeared the account that always dealed with concrete content of foreign fashion in the 1930's.

• KSBB Journal
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.238-245
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• 1996

Microbial desulfurization characterlstics of a bituminous coal have been determined by using Thiobacillus ferrooxidans. The effects of process variables (such as coal pulp density, particle size and addition of surfactants) on pyrite removal have been investigated in both shake and airlift-bioreactor culture experiments. In shake experiments, pyrite could be removed over 78% for pulp densifies below 20% (w/v) and removed below 40% for pulp densities over 30% (w/v) in 8 days. Pyrite removal decreased with increasing pulp densities, and it also decreased sharply with increasing particle sizes. In airlift bioreactor experiments, pyrite at 50% (w/v) pulp density could be removed about 50%. Its value is much higher than 15% at the same pulp density in a shake experiment. With addition of surfactants, pyrite removal was enhanced in shake experiments significantly, whereas it was slightly decreased in an airlift bioreactor experiment.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.85-90
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• 1999

A shroud is clothes for giving a dead person a bath and being finely dressed:though our routine clothes have been western, putting on a shroud has been kept comparatively well as a tradition of a conventional ceremony garments. This study is about the current using of dressing a shroud, and for presenting foundations of a way about dressing a shroud in order to make the most of this by everyone, therefore this research will be worthwhile to preserve the traditional custom of giving a dead person a bath and being finely dressed. 1. We must confirm the death of a person before we do Su-Si for controlling rightly a corse. Su-Si is ways of changing a clean clothes after bathing the dead person, tieing up hands, feet and ankles with a string, filling up a mouth, a nose and ears with a wad of cotton, laying down the dead person with his head toward east, and setting up a screen after covering the dead person with a bed sheet. 2. Here are processes of putting on a shroud. After the day of death, first of all, you must untie the string to control rightly a corpse, take off the clothes, and give a dead man a bath. You trim the dead person's fingernails and toenails, put them in O-nang, then put his hands and feet in five pouches, finally put feet in korean socks and wrap with Ak-su. You put a underwear in a overwear in order to put on the clothes easily, and then put on an upper garments after putting on trousers. And put on Sb-sin After you wash the dead person's face and his hair, you put gems and raw rice in his mouth, wrap head with cotton fabrics, and put hairs into five pouches, then put on a headgear which is filled with five pouches. 3. You tie up with hem cloth the dead person dressed a shroud after wrapping with Dae-ryum-km and So-ryumkm. 4. After you encoffin the dead person, you weave coffin strings with cotton fabrics in order to lift up the coffin easily, and lay down a red fabrics having white letters about the dead person's name or social position onto the coffin, then cover the coffin with a coffin cover : finally you leave the coffin at the former place and set up screen.

• Research in Community and Public Health Nursing
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.372-386
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to explore the degree of stress in caregivers caring for CVA patients and the level of daily living performance of CVA patients. The subjects for the study were caregivers of 112 CVA patients who enter a hospital or out-patient-department (OPD) at two Oriental medical hospital in Jeonbuk province. The survey instruments used in this study were Kang's ADL check list for daily living performance of patients and Choi's 4 sore scale for stress of caregivers. The survey was conducted from July 4th to August 30th in 1999. The survey results were analyzed with the Statistical Package for Social Science(SPSS) program and can be summarized as follows: 1. The level of daily living performance for the CVA patients was: 1) complete dependence (M=14.9, 13.1%), 2) complete independence (M=23.6, 20.9%), 3) incomplete independence (M=23.9, 21.0%), 4) incomplete dependence (M=26.6, 25%), 5) dependence and independence (M=23.0, 20.0%). The items for with there was a high level daily living performance were: 1) drinking (M=3.62), 2) eating(M=3.25). 3) position returning (M=3.18) : and the items for which there was a low level of daily living performance were: 1) ascending and descending stairs (M=2.08), 2) walking (M=2.47), 3) dressing and undressing trousers (M=2.55). 2. Degree of caregiver stress was: Mean=2.39 at 40 score. The items for which was a high level caregiver stress were: 1) medical fee (M=3.25), 2) being handicapped or recurrence (M=3.02) : and the items for which there was a low level of caregiver stress were: 1) discontinuity of patient's treatment (M = 1.98). 2) change of home atmosphere caused by patient's disease (M = 1.98), 3) desire of patient's knowing about disease (M= 1.99). 3. There was statistically significant difference in the degree of caregiver stress according to the following caregiver's demographic characteristics: education level (F=3.52, P=0.03). change of caregiver (F=5.41. P=0.02). 4. There was a statistically signifiant difference in the level of daily living performance according to the CVA patients demographic characteristics: patient's paralytic status (F=4.48, P=0.01), duration of disease (t=2.76, P=0.03). 5. There was significant difference in degree of caregiver stress according to the CVA patient's demographic characteristics: CVA status (F=4.75, P=0.01). 6. There was statistically significant difference in the degree of caregiver stress according to the level of daily living performance in CVA patients(r=-0.482, P<0.00).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.193-202
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• 1998

The purpose of this study was to understand clothing condition of elderly men focusing on somatotype variation and satisfaction with ready-to-wear and to provide basic data in designing ready-to-wrar for the elderly men. The questionnaire method was used and one-to-one interviews were held for the elderly residents in Seoul, Deajon, Jonju, and Yeosu areas. The total of 275 questionnaires (from 148 elderly men in the 60's, 99 in the 70's and 28 in the 80's) were collected and used for statistics. SAS package was used for the statistics and the statistics were based on frequency, X2-test, ANOVA, Duncan's multifle range test. The results of the study were as follows; 1) Height (p< .05), weight (p< .001) and Rohrer index (p< .05) decreased significantly with ageing 2) The somatotypes of 75.6% were changed and the 70's 8t the 80's showed significantly (p< .05) higher changing rate compared to the 60's and more changes took place significantly (p< .001) with ageing. 3) The most preferred out wear was suit & tie and next was jumper or shirt. 4) For the mode of getting suit, the highest number 55.3%) purchased ready-to-wear, next (32.0%) was tailored and the least (12.7%) neither purchased nor tailored. The percentage of buying ready-to-wear significantly (p< .01) decreased with ageing. The main reason for getting tailor-made was not well fitting of ready-to-wear (20.7% out of 32.0%). And for the mode of getting suit, there was significant differance with income (p< .001) and pocket money (p< .01). 5) The most important factors in suit and shirt werefirst, size (fitness) and second, comfort in movement. 6) For the wearing feeling of suit, 55.3% showed discomfort. There was significant difference according to the age (p< .05) and pocket money (p< .05). The Discomfort increased with ageing and less pocket money. 7) 62.4% answered it uneasy to Pick out well fitting If comfortable suit. This showed their dissatisfaction with ready-to-wear. 8) As for the items of not well fitting, 64.4% answered in jacket, 60.8% in trousers, 46.0% in shirt. The above result shows that elderly men's somatotype changes as they age, suit is found uncomfortable and it's not easy for elders to pick out comfortable ready-to-wear. So, they seem to have a certain dissatisfaction in ready to wear. Therefore, there is a need for reorganization of size and developing pattern design according to measurement of elderly men.

• Journal of Haehwa Medicine
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.245-257
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• 2000

A clinical study was done 40 patients of chronic prostatitis who was treated in Dept. of Internal Medicine, Oriental Medicine Hospital, Taejon University, from 1 Mar. 1999 to 31 Oct. 1999. The results were as follows. 1. In distribution of age, 30's and 40's were 57.5% the most, 20's and 60's were 35.0%, 50's was 7.5%. 2. In distribution of past history, the urethritis(45.0%) was the most. 3. In distribution of ocupation, a white-collar worker was 35.0%, a business man was 22.5%, a public servant was 12.5%, etc. 4. Sitting the mean time of day were distributed 5~7 hours, above 7 hours, 3~5 hours, under 3 hours, etc. 5. The resting interval of a long distance drive were distributed 2 hours(35.0%), 3 hours(32.5%), etc. 6. The habit of enduring ejaculation during sexual intercourse was showed 45.0%. 7. The habit of enduring urination was showed 20.0%. 8. Influency of mental stress was showed 90.0%. 9. Ten cases(25.0%) were showed riding horse or riding bicycle. 10. Four cases(10.0%) were showed wearing tight trousers. 11. The habit of put a wallet his hip pocket was showed 57.5%. 12. The most common symptom was distributed the others symp-tom(66.8%) and the voiding symptom(63.3%) more than pain-neuro-logical symptom(37.5%) and symptom related with sexual function (26.6%). 13. In distribution of palpation, lower abdominal pain, lumbar pain, perineal or parascrotal pain were mostly showed right side. Moreover diagnosis of pulsation was weakly showed chi pulse of right. 14. Duration of disease were distributed above 1 year(82.5%), under 1 year(17.5%). Degree of prostatitis was severe showed adove 1 year. 15. The distribution of WBC count of the prostatic secretion, com-paring with before therapy and after therapy, were showed from 5 cases to 0 case in very many/HPF, from 23 cases to 13 cases in many/HPF, from 12 cases to 13 cases in 10~30/HPF, from 0 case to 13 cases in under 10/HPF. 16. Therapeutic improvement of symptom were distributed pain-neurological symptom(94.8%), the others symptom(90.8%), the void-ing symptom(89.6%) and symptom related with sexual function(67.5%). 17. Differentiation of symptoms and signs were distributed dificiency of spleen-lung vital energy, wetness-heat of lower warmer, dificiency of spleen-kidney yang, dificiency of kidney yin, wetness-phlegm, dificiency of vital energy and blood. The prescriptions were Bojungikgitang(44.6%), Yukmijihwangtang(20.7%), Palmijihwangtang(12.0%), etc.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.24
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• pp.59-82
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• 1995

All kinds of art are the creatures of the daly and reflect the society and the life of the day in literary works. So, in which literary works, we can find the styles of those who lived in the specified days. And the styles of its character's costume are expressed with the day'mood and cultural backgrounds. In this study, we studied on the general meaning, which was shown in the Costume of early Ch'ing Dynasty that was forming the Costume of dress through dividing into the underwear and the outer garment in $\ulcorner$Dream of the read Chamber$\lrcorner$. During the Ch'ing Dynasty, according to the rule : Men followed it but women not" , they held on to the costume of them (both the Man and the Han) with a high pressure and a conciliatory policy. As a result, I have known that there is the Soojean clothe(수전의), which is the late Myung Dynasty's one and their is also Skirt (군), which held on the Costume of the Myung's. Hence in the Ch'ing , there are a lot of difference in the Costume , the economy and the politic because the ruler was not the han but the Ch'ing. Those characters are as follows. first, on the side of the style , it is occured in the coat and the over jacket of the round neckline. The style of the sleeves are also the tightly(고착). Second, on the side o f the material, the use of the furs are found. It seems that are influence of the north area. Third, it is involved not the traditional Costume of the Han, but the over jacket(which is waistlength), These characters had taken root into the Costume of the Ch'ing Dynasty. In case of the jacket, which are found in the novel most frequently , it was represented by the tight jacket (소오), the long jacket (대오), the short jacket(단오) and the Sam (삼). The skirt was used by women only. the Slacks were trousers only for men, so it was not foujnd in the women's wear. In the vest, the over jacket and coat, which are for putting on, its material, insiqnia and varied embroidery are very brillant and elaborate. The used materials are the silks , furs, wools and cottons. Among the dick silks are used most frequently . in case of the over jacket, the precious and varied furs are used for the collar, the sleeve or the decoration and the lining cloth. In the novel, mean followd the Costume of the Man and women followed the Costume of the Han. Especially, it is a special costume that there were women in male attire. Finally, the costume of the Ch'ing had built the unique one with holding on the advantage and the short point s of the northen race and the Han's. Also , I can find the brilliant , eleborate Customes of the aristocratic class in the novel.