• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.221-236
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to make a contribution to the development of creative fashion culture through the expansion of creative fields in the fashion design area and also the combination of fashion and art techniques, by classifying the cases of Trompe $L{\oe}il$ expressed in modern fashion, and also analyzing its aesthetic characteristics. Conducting the qualitative research through the literature study and the analysis of design cases, it targeted the women's wear collections of Paris, Milan, London, and New York, limiting its range from S/S 2010 to F/W 2015. The results are as follows: First, based on the preceding research, the types of Trompe $L{\oe}il$ expressed in modern fashion were shown as realistic expression of clothing, movement of daily objects, double images, and application of human body. Second, the aesthetic characteristics of Trompe $L{\oe}il$ based on its expression types were deconstruction, avant-garde, and amusements. The deconstruction was expressed in the expression type of Trompe $L{\oe}il$ such as freedom of materials using digital printing technique, change in the position of clothes, and movement of daily items using collage technique by collecting objets like daily items or waste. The avant-garde was expressed by switching/overlapping in and out of clothes, intentionally exposing some body parts like breast or torso, displacing body parts, and moving daily items. The amusements was shown by realistically expressing accessories or details of clothes using digital printing technique, or moving daily items such as book and fork.

• 복식
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• 제52권4호
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• pp.155-171
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• 2002

Trompe-1’oeil technique strategically conceived with a view to effectively realize creative ideas among the expression techniques of fine arts style has provided the driving force in development of fine arts and has continuously influenced development of the modern fashion pursuing unique individuality. The purpose of this study is to open a new horizon for the development of fashion as a practical art, and to seek the expansion of the creative domain and ultimately to contribute to the creation of original and creative fashion by examining the interrelationship between Trompe-1’oeil, which has long been utilized and positioned as one of the leading fine arts techniques with the advent of surrealism in the beginning of the 20th century and the modern fashion. The study is focused first on finding out how Trompe-1’oeil technique originated in connection with researching the fashion of Trompe-1’oeil and on analysing the techniques of expression, and then on investigating into Elsa Schiaparelli, pioneer of Trompe-1’oeil technique to identify her influences, and finally on classifying clothes employing Trompe-1’oeil technique by their expression method to examine how Trompe-1’oeil technique has been applied to modern clothes. As for the research method, the researcher has referred to fine arts books, collection of pictorial records and the like to gain conceptual understanding of Trompe-1’oeil and to examine the expression method and the features of Trompe-1’oeil, and collected and referred to fashion books and fashion marazines to understand Elsa Schiaparelli and the expression tendencies of Tromprf-1’oeil in modern fashions. Particularly, the researcher has attempted to search the correlation between modern fashion and Trompe-1’oeil technique. As a result of this research, the researcher has managed to classify Trompe-1’oeil technique expressed in modern fashion into ‘harmony’, ‘application of the human body’, ‘front and back’, ‘surface and inside’. ‘completion of the incomplete’ and ‘detail.’ The researcher has also noted that Elsa Schiaparelli, a surrealist first applied Trompe-1’oeil technique to clothes and confirmed that quite a few avant-garde clothes designers following Elia Schiaparelli, by using Trompe-1’oeil technique in clothes, recently recreate fresh feelings.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제28권5호
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• pp.573-590
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• 2020

The purpose of this study was to develop contemporary Qipao design that emphasized creative feminine beauty with a unique sense beyond the concept of traditional Qipao design. This would be achieved using the expressive technique of human liberation from the oppression of the unconscious world a supported by surrealism. Using existing literature and previous research, surrealist expression technique used in fashion were investigated and analyzed. The results are as follows. First, the possibility of new and original design beyond existing surrealistic Qipao design was demonstrated through various realistic surrealism expression techniques, such as dépaysement, objet, and trompe-l'œil techniques. This occurred by exploring various unconscious world out of fixed ideas and through expression techniques of surrealistic fashion such as imagery of body parts, metaphorical expression of objects, and position deformation and illusion. Second, Qipao design that combined objet and attempted ordinary escape by combining isolated body parts (such as hands, eyes, and lips) within the composition combine with surrealistic expression enabled various and fun surrealistic fashion designs to emerge. Third, the metaphor of surreal lips and eyes (mainly used in works of this study) presented a unique and extraordinary combination of images in accessories and partial design that used the dépaysement technique. Thus, it was possible to expand surrealistic expression by including LED wire.