• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.264-274
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• 2019

This study attempted to analyze the effects of cleansing oil on skin by preferred vegetable base oil. For this, a questionnaire survey was performed against 100 people, and their face washing habit and preferred vegetable base oils were examined. Based on the results, 4 different cleansing oils were prepared and experimented. The experiment was conducted against 10 adult women in their 20-30s, and moisture level, sebum level and trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) before and after the experiment were measured. After the test, satisfaction was measured, and the results found the followings: When asked what cleansing oil is most preferred by vegetable base oil type, 'rose hip oil' was the highest, followed by 'olive oil', 'apricot kernel oil' and 'camellia oil'. According to the clinical trials, both moisture and sebum levels increased before and after cleansing in all four cleansing oil types by the preferred vegetable base oil (p<0.001, p<0.001). In addition, TEWL decreased with a difference by base oil (p<0.01). According to a subjective satisfaction survey which was performed after the experiment, rose hip oil-contained cleansing oil (RHC) was the highest in terms of cleansing effect and satisfaction level. Consequently, it was confirmed that the cleansing oil by vegetable base oil improved skin conditions by protecting a skin barrier with a positive effect on the improvement of sebum and moisture levels and TEWL. Even though a preferred oil type and a satisfaction level may differ by preferred oil and feeling after use, cleansing oil by vegetable base can be helpful as a skin care product which eases skin dryness and protects a skin barrier.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.34 no.4
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• pp.275-286
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• 2008

In this study, we investigated the anti-oxidative, anti-wrinkle and whitening effects of Platycarya strobilacea bark extracts. The free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activity ($FSC_{50}$) of extract / fractions of Platycarya strobilacea was in the order: 50% ethanol extract ($6.75{\mu}g/mL$) < deglycosylated aglycone fraction ($6.62{\mu}g/mL$) < ethyl acetate fraction ($4.15{\mu}g/mL$). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities ($OSC_{50}$) of some Platycarya strobilacea extracts on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}$-EDTA/$H_2O_2$ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The order of ROS scavenging activity was ethyl acetate fraction (OSC50, $0.56{\mu}g/mL$) < 50% ethanol extract ($0.02{\mu}g/mL$) < deglycosylated aglycone fraction ($0.01{\mu}g/mL$). The deglycosylated aglycone fraction showed the most prominent scavenging activity. The protective effects of extract / fractions of Platycarya strobilacea on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The ethanol extract (50%) suppressed photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner, particularly ethyl acetate fraction exhibited the most prominent cellular protective effect (${\tau}_{50}$, 717.27 min at $10{\mu}g/mL$). The inhibitory effect of Platycarya strobilacea extracts on tyrosinase were investigated to assess their whitening efficacy. Finally, their anti-elastase activities were measured to predict the anti-wrinkle efficacy in the human skin. The inhibitory effect ($IC_{50}$) on tyrosinase of some Platycarya strobilacea extracts was 50% ethanol extract ($243.98{\mu}g/mL$) < ethyl acetate fraction ($153.87{\mu}g/mL$) < deglycosylated aglycone fraction ($137.53{\mu}g/mL$). Also, The inhibitory effect of elastase ($IC_{50}$) of some Platycarya strobilacea extracts was 50% ethanol extract ($31.01{\mu}g/mL$) < ethyl acetate fraction ($14.42{\mu}g/mL$) < deglycosylated aglycone fraction ($1.48{\mu}g/mL$). The cream containing the ethyl acetate fraction of Platycarya strobilacea extracts was formulated. The skin hydration, transepidermal water loss, and the whitening effects were investigated after topical application of the cream. The skin hydration of cream containing extract was increased by $2{\sim}8%$ than the placebo cream, transepidermal water loss was decreased. The cream containing extract suppressed the melanogenesis of skin by 9.55% than the placebo cream. These results indicate that extract / fractions of Platycarya strobilacea can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by anti-oxidative activity and protect cellular membranes against ROS. The inhibitory effect on elastase and tyrosinase, and the increase of skin hydration and the whitening effect of the cream containing extract could be applicable to new functional cosmetics for antiaging.

• Microbiology and Biotechnology Letters
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• v.38 no.1
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• pp.112-115
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• 2010

In this study, the antibacterial activity and the moisturizing effect of cream contaning Persicaria hydropiper L. extract were investigated by clinical trial. MIC values of ethyl acetate fraction from Persicaria hydropiper on P.acnes, S.aureus, P.ovale were 0.13~0.25%. The results showed that the antibacterial activity of the ethyl acetate fraction was higher than or equal to the methyl paraben and quercetin. The cream containing the ethyl acetate fraction of Persicaria hydropiper L. extracts was formulated for skin hydration effect. Also, the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and the water contents in skin were measured. The cream containing Persicaria hydropiper L. extract was applied to the right lower arm. After 180 min, TEWL of parts was decreased as $6.5\;g/m^2h$ (experimental cream) and $7.5\;g/m^2h$ (placebo cream) respectively. And the water contents in skin were increased by 2~4% than the placebo cream. These results indicate that extract/fractions of Persicaria hydropiper L. can function as high potential as bactericide against the skin pathogenic bacteria and the increase of skin hydration of the cream containing extract could be applicable to new functional cosmetics for antiaging.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.33 no.1 s.60
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• pp.17-22
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• 2007

In this study, we investigated the effects of Sedum sarmentosum extract on the expression of hyaluronan synthase (HAS) genes and hyaluronan (HA) production in HaCaT keratinocytes. We also assessed water content (electrical capacitance) and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) in human skin after topical treatment with Sedum sarmentosum extract. Sedum sarmentosum extract increased expression of HAS-2 and HAS-3 genes in HaCaT cells, when assayed by real-time reverse-transcriptase polymerase chain reactions (RT-PCR). Sedum sarmentosum extract induced HA production in HaCaT cells, when determined by enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA). Finally, treatment of Sedum sarmentosum extract on human skin increased the skin hydration and decreased TEWL when measured using Corneometer and Tewameter. Our study suggests that Sedum sarmentosum extract should be a very useful cosmetic ingredient, as a skin moisturizer.

• Journal of Microbiology and Biotechnology
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• v.25 no.12
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• pp.2160-2168
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• 2015

The beneficial effects of probiotics are now widely reported, although there are only a few studies on their anti-aging effects. We have found that Lactobacillus plantarum HY7714 (HY7714) improves skin hydration and has anti-photoaging effects, and in the present study, we have further evaluated the anti-aging effect of HY7714 via a randomized, double blind, placebo-controlled clinical trial. The trial included 110 volunteers aged 41 and 59 years who have dry skin and wrinkles. Participants took 1 × 10¹⁰ CFU/day of HY7714 (probiotic group) or a placebo (placebo group) for 12 weeks. Skin hydration, wrinkles, skin gloss, and skin elasticity were measured every 4 weeks during the study period. There were significant increases in the skin water content in the face (p < 0.01) and hands (p < 0.05) at week 12 in the probiotic group. Transepidermal water loss decreased significantly in both groups at weeks 4, 8, and 12 (p < 0.001 compared with baseline), and was suppressed to a greater extent in the face and forearm in the probiotic group at week 12. Volunteers in the probiotic group had a significant reduction in wrinkle depth at week 12, and skin gloss was also significantly improved by week 12. Finally, skin elasticity in the probiotic group improved by 13.17% (p < 0.05 vs. controls) after 4 weeks and by 21.73% (p < 0.01 vs. controls) after 12 weeks. These findings are preliminary confirmation of the anti-aging benefit to the skin of L. plantarum HY7714 as a nutricosmetic agent.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.34 no.1
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• pp.43-50
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• 2008

Ceramides, a constituent of stratum corneum lipids, play a crucial role in the formation and maintenance of the epidermal permeability barrier. As in many other skin disorders, atopic dermatitis and psoriasis show decrease and transformation of the ceramides. The application of ceramide has been demonstrated to be efficient in the repair of these skin disorders. Nevertheless, natural ceramides are still too expensive and small in quantity to be used as a cosmetic ingredient. Although a lot of pseudo-ceramides have been developed and on the market until now, those pseudo-ceramides did not fully meet the consumer's needs, therefore, there is still a demand for a novel pseudo-ceramides. We synthesized a novel pseudo-ceramide BPC-16 from 2-(2-amino-ethylamino)-ethanol(AEEA), which was characterized by structures having both amide bonds and hydroxyl groups as hydrophilic units, as well as two long alkyl chains. We formulated emulsion with BPC-16, cholesterol, stearic acid, and other components to make an emulsion. These emulsion showed a typical optical anisotropy on cross-polarized microscopy. This 'Maltese cross' appearance is a characteristic figure observed in concentric lamellar emulsion under cross-polarized microscopy. In cytotoxicity assay using MTT in monolayer and three dimension(3D) cell culture, a BPC-16 showed only negligible cytotoxicity up to the effective concentration for barrier repair and moisturization(less than 10 mM). In the measurement of TEWL, this BPC-16 showed significant recovery of water-retaining properties when it was topically applied to either SDS-induced dry skin or normal skin compared to that of base cream. This novel pseudo-ceramide BPC-16 showed as effective in skin barrier repair and moisturization as natural ceramides.

• The Korea Journal of Herbology
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.59-65
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• 2008

Objectives : HRHDT has been known as a useful prescription with antibiotic, anti-inflammatory, antioxidative and immunosuppressive activity. To evaluate anti-atopic dermatitis effect of HRHDT, we treated HRHDT in NC/Nga mice model skin induced contact hypersensitivity. Methods : Contact hypersensitivity, a local inflammatory response of skin, was induced by spreading the back skin of NC/Nga mice with 0.4${\sim}$1% DNCB. HRHDT was prepared by dissolving 3% HRHDT in solution and treated 3 weeks on the back skin. Results : HRHDT significantly reduced TEWL and erythema by 0.4${\sim}$1% of DNCB treatment compared to control group. HRHDT also reduced IgE on serum obtained from blood of DNCB-treated mice. Conclusions : These results showed that HRHDT could be used as a pharmaceutical material with anti-atopic dermatitis effect by reducing IgE in contact, hypersensitivity atopic dermatitis NC/Nga mice model by DNCB.

• Journal of Veterinary Clinics
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• v.31 no.3
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• pp.180-193
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• 2014

Allergic contact dermatitis (ACD) is an inflammatory skin disease and regarded as a prototype of T-cell mediated delayed-type hypersensitivity reactions. Aroma Oil Complex (AOC) is composed of lavender true oil, chamomile roman oil and tea tree oil. This study was performed to assess the effects of AOC in a canine model of ACD. ACD was induced on the back of dogs induced by sensitization and repeated application by 2,4-dinitro-1-chlorobenzene (DNCB). Topical treatment of AOC was applied once a day for 8 days and skin biophysical parameters including transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin hydration, skin thickness and erythema index, were measured every two days during experimental periods. Histopathology and immunohistochemistry were performed to evaluate the anti-inflammatory effect. In skin biophysical parameters, TEWL, skin hydration, skin thickness and erythema index were significantly increased, with a maximum increase appeared on day 2 (p<0.05). After the completion of AOC treatment, skin biophysical parameters were significantly reached those of baseline in a time-dependent manner (p<0.05). In histopathology, marked increases of epidermal thicknesses were induced after DNCB challenge with numerous inflammatory cell infiltrations and edematous changes, decreases of connective tissue occupied regions in dermis. In addition, marked increases of cytokine - tumor necrosis factor-${\alpha}$ (TNF-${\alpha}$) and interferon-${\gamma}$ (IFN-${\gamma}$)-immunoreactivities in the dermis and of apoptotic markers - caspase-3 and PARP-immunoreactivities in the epidermis were observed in DNCB control as compared with intact control, respectively (p<0.01). The decrease of infiltrated inflammatory cells and related decreases of pro-inflammatory cytokine immunoreactivities were observed in AOC treated skin (p<0.01). Based on these findings, AOC may have anti-inflammatory and alleviatory effects in the allergic contact dermatitis.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.42 no.4
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• pp.367-375
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• 2016

In this study, the skin-improving effect was investigated through the oral intake of DuOligo (51.67% lactulose and 15.8% galactooligosaccharides). Thirty seven healthy women (40~60 in ages) were divided into placebo group (dextrin) and treatment group (DuOligo group), and each group was given a sample for oral intake for 8 weeks. After that, corneometer value, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), melanin index, erythema index, and wrinkle index were measured. As a result, moisture content of DuOligo group increased 38.22% than control group after 8 weeks significantly (p < 0.01). The TEWL of control group decreased by $3.39g/h/m^2$ after 8 weeks but the TEWL of DuOligo group decreased by $5.32g/h/m^2$ after 8 weeks. The melanin index of the control group was significantly increased with times, but the melanin index of the DuOligo group did not show any significant difference with times. The total wrinkles, length of total wrinkles, number of wrinkles, and depth of wrinkles significantly decreased (p < 0.05) compared to the control group. These results suggested that the applicability of DuOligo as a skin improving functional material was confirmed.

• Proceedings of the SCSK Conference
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• 2003.09a
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• pp.765-779
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• 2003

Physiological lipid mixtures comprised of cholesterol, ceramide and free fatty acid better maintain epidermal homeostasis and have been recently used for dermatoses induced by skin barrier damage, for example for atopic dermatitis and xerotic skin. Itching and dry atopic dermatitis of the skin may be related to altered skin barrier function. In a previous study, the use of multi-lamellar emulsion (MLE), which is a lipid mixtures containing cholesterol, pseudoceramide and free fatty acid, has been shown to accelerate the recovery of the epidermal permeability barrier. In this study, we assessed the efficacy of MLE compared with a currently used anti-itch moisturizer (AIM), the active ingredients of which are menthol and camphor, on barrier recovery after barrier disruption. To clarify the effect of MLE and AIM after acute barrier perturbation, we measured the relation between transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and the barrier recovery rate at 3, 6, 24, and 48 hours after tape stripping hairless mice and then observed changes in the stratum corneum (SC), including the intercellular lipid structure and secretion of lamellar bodies, by electron microscopy. MLE treated skin recover skin barrier function more rapidly, and AIM treated skin delayed barrier repair. Morphological changes in the epidermis, of MLE treated skin revealed well-conserved lipid multi-lamellar structures at 24 h after tape stripping, whereas AIM treated skin showed altered lamellar bilayers within the SC interstices at 48 h. In addition, MLE treated skin showed an increase in the number of LBs and in their secretions and a decrease in the number of SC layers versus AIM treated skin. These results suggest that MLE may accelerate the production of an epidermal permeability barrier in hairless mice by increasing the number and secretion of LB and improve the dryness and itch associated with an altered epidermal permeability barrier.