• Title/Summary/Keyword: Traditional clothes

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The Aesthetic Qualities Featured in Vivienne Westwood's Works (비비안 웨스트우드(Vivienne Westwood)의 작품세계와 미적특성)

  • 염혜정
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.37
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    • pp.71-88
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    • 1998
  • This study will analyze the aesthetic qual-ities revealed in the work of Vivienne Wes-twood in order to gain an understanding of the development process and uniqueness of modern avant-garde fashion. Westwood gained worldwide recognition in the 1970s as the Punk movement emerged in London. Although her works have often been described as decadent and anti-establishment, her anarchic view of fashion has had a considerable influence on other designers, both in England and around the world. Vivienne Westwood's works can be divided into three periods. In the first period(1971∼78). Westwood design demonstrated elements which were variations of the subcultural Punk style. The noteworthy designs of this period included ripped T-shirts, bondage clothes, and fetishist accoutrements. In the second period(1979∼83), her designs expressed elements from ethnic and primitive tribal societies through the 'Pirate', 'Savages', 'Buffalo Girls', 'Witches' collections, which inspired New Romanticism movement. In the third period (1985∼ ), through works such as 'Mini-Crini'collection, her works identified elements from the old west and used materials such as crinoline and Harris tweed and contemporized them by rearranging the innovative technique. In the end the news synthesis helped formulate new ideas. The aesthetic qualities in Vivienne Wes-twood's works can bed identified with the following themes : Punkature, Erotic Intelligent-sia, Anarchic Collage. First, within Punkature, Westwood's ideas are at the forefront as her impact on the cut of clothes and creative detailing have been considerable. Also, while her ideas can be extreme, her clothes are wear-able, resulting in the synthesis of Punk and couture. Second, as Erotic Intelligentsia, Vivienne Westwood does not present sexuality as a straight forward attribute that fashion so often tends to do, but instead as a matter for inquiry, exploration and debate. She asserts that sexuality is always an interplay between the polarities of masculine and feminine, of dress and undress. Third, as Anarchic Collage, she has taken, juxtaposed, and transformed objects and symbols from dominant culture, like every modern subversive movement from Dada to Punk. She has continued this form of anarchic collage, mixing styles from various times and places, taking them out of their traditional context. From thiss viewpoint, Vivienne Westwood's works can be considered to be made up of past themes merged with is contemporary. The usage of contrasting elements such as Punk and couture to communicate her ideas visually or technically.

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A Study on The Stage Costume Design of Opera $\lceil$Faust$\rfloor$ - Focused on The Crowd - (오페라 "파우스트"의 무대의상 디자인 - 군중들을 중심으로 -)

  • Byun, Zee-Hyun;Cho, Jean-Suk
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.57 no.3 s.112
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    • pp.90-107
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    • 2007
  • Modernization movement has affected classical operas. Today, classical operas are often re-interpreted from the modern perspective and played differently only with the storyline maintained. Also, operas are increasingly performed outside traditional theaters as the boundaries between stage and audience become less obvious. Accordingly, stage costumes are being differently designed than before. New attempts are being made to look costumes in a harmony with increasingly streamlined stage machinery. This helps increase public attention on operas, consequently promoting the opera industry. This study examines modernization of opera costumes. For this study, the author worked as one of costume design staff for "Faust," which was played in Sungnam Art Center from November 24, 2005 to November 27, 2005 in commemoration of the opening of the center. The following outcomes of the crowd are drawn from this study. A variety of splendid pink dresses, ribbons, dolls, hand mirror, and hair bands were used to express haughty girls with "Princess Syndrome." Fashion models, the envy of all woman, wore fashionable clothes including luxury dresses, fur-coats, high heels, purses, and hats, Models also had big shopping bags and gift boxes to symbolize shopping lovers in a modern society. Gay men wore tight leather trousers and vest and sleeves shirts with deeply cut neckline to express their preference for feminie style. their clothes were splendid colors that normally women liked such as gold, purple, light green, scarlet, and silver. Soldiers were in combat uniform representing their participation in the war. In particular, clothes stained with dirt, iron helmet, crutches, and canteens were used to vividly express soldiers coming back home from the war. Modern opera costumes now help reduce the time and space between stage and audience, improve economic efficiency, and meet the audience's needs for various style.

Relationship Between Dietary Consciousness of Housewives and Their Attitude of Households - in Puchon City - (부천 지역 주부의 식문화 의식과 가사행동과의 관계)

  • Koh, Kyung-Hee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture
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    • v.14 no.3
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    • pp.211-224
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    • 1999
  • The purpose of this study was to investigate the understanding of dietary consciousness and define the relationship of housewife attitude of middle class residence in Puchon city. Questionnaires were collected 282 housewives in Puchon city. Data were analysed with SAS software package for F-test and Duncan's multiple range test. The main findings of the research were as follows: The food related perchasing place was supermarket(91%), ordinary market(77%), department store(68%), special store(58%), common purchase(37%), convenience store(22%) and communication marketing(13%). The clothing perchasing place showed in the order of department store(71%), special store(65%), ordinary market(52%), common purchase(23%), supermarket(18%), convenience store(15%) and communication marketing(10%). Dietary cosciousness of housewife on foods, clothing, and housing related items was significantly different, specially 20's housewife was concerned about foods and 30's housewife was housing(p<0.05). The behavior consciousness of housewife was significantly different between age, education level, family type and income(p<0.05). Highly educated housewife showed a tendency to spend money and times for food related fields, and to buy clothes in a department store for breaking stress(p<0.05). However, low education level and extended family type housewife got more conservative consciousness on traditional fermented food making(p<0.05). Most of young housewife answered that the making of bread, cookies, soybean paste soup, children clothes and handicraft led to positive consciousness(p<0.05). Especially high life satisfaction housewife preferred to make a dosirak(lunch box), dinner, children clothes and handicraft(p<0.05).

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Development of Female's Ordinary Hanbok Design with Korean Patchwork Image (조각보 이미지를 이용한 여성생활한복 디자인 개발)

  • Choi, Sun-Mi;Yang, Suk-Hyang
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.9 no.2
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    • pp.145-150
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    • 2007
  • Recently, active movements are occurring to reestablish our own traditional Korean images in all levels of society. One of them is about Ordinary Hanbok. Academics and business sectors are endeavoring to develop comfortable and Korean traditional Hanbok designs and popularize them as well. Based on the facts, the study focuses on developing Ordinary Hanbok designs for women by applying Korean traditional patchwork in order to present handmade, humane senses. First of all, the backgrounds, history and preference of Ordinary Hanbok are discussed through literatures and precedent studies as study methodology. Then, the study is analyzing the formative beauty of Korean traditional patchwork that contains emotions of women in the Chosun Dynasty. After that, it shows Ordinary Hanbok designs developed for women by using checks, free style, and yeoiju patterns of the fabrics dyed with clay and Chinese ink that recently attract people in particular. The results are like followings; First, the limits that excessive transformation of Hanbok may cause the lack of traditional beauty can be covered through using a variety of images of Korean traditional patchwork. Second, diverse face configuration of patchworks has very unique geometric forms so to be easily applied to modern Ordinary Hanbok designs. Third, the sewing technique of patchworks also plays a role as a design factor as important as face configuration. Fourth, utilizing fabric pieces may result in various unplanned face configuration and help resource recycling. Fifth, it is possible to coordinate Hanbok with other ordinary clothes that people normally wear on. Sixth, using patchworks images can encourage developing more active and refined designs added with traditional beauty. Seventh, natural dying and fabrics are eco-friendly, which is good for human health and environment. Finally, more studies should be done on design development based on precedent studies about Ordinary Hanbok. Also, it is important to foster social atmosphere and circumstances where people accept wearing Ordinary Hanbok as our natural culture.

A Study on the Traditional Aesthetic Consciousness Reflected on the Contemporary Fashion - Focused on Comparative Research for Korea and Japan - (현대(現代)패션에 반영(反映)된 전통(傳統) 미의식(美意識)의 연구(硏究) - 한국(韓國)과 일본(日本)의 비교연구(比較硏究)를 중심(中心)으로 -)

  • Yun, Bo-Yeun;Bae, Soo-Jeong
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.5 no.4
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    • pp.56-72
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    • 2001
  • The purpose of this study is to provide a philosophical basis for a rational, meaningful and systematic development of contemporary Korean fashion and culture industry. The study will begin by comparing traditional aesthetics of Japan and Korea and their respective influences in contemporary fashion design. Japanese aesthetic consciousness can be understood in terms of decorative beauty and undecorated beauty where traditional Korean aesthetic consciousness consists of aesthetic naturalism, beauty of mysticism and beauty of humor. Japanese aesthetic consciousness is generally inclined toward article fanciness, on the other hand, Korean aesthetic consciousness is inclined toward natural beauty. Both Japan and Korea reflect their traditional aesthetic consciousness in their contemporary fashion design. In Japan's case, traditional patterns have been applied to obi(帶, おび). And aesthetic naturalism can be seen in holes, tears and patches present, as well as rough and coarse texture used, in contemporary fashion design. In case of Korea, aesthetic naturalism can be seen in elegant naturally flowing curves and use of plain colored fabric used in fashion design. Beauty of mysticism can be seen in splendid primary colors from shaman ritual costumes, and fortune-telling hexagram patterns. Beauty of humor can be seen in outrageously exaggerated and distorted fit of clothes. The above comparative analysis, with respect to their formative elements, show that both Korean and Japanese contemporary fashion trends reflect and embody their respective traditional aesthetic consciousness. Japan is creating high-grade fashion design of temporal universality and contemporary appeal. Japan has done so by studying their aesthetic tradition from the point of view of philosophy and utilizing its formative elements. Korea, however, is in the middle of transition: Korea is caught between directly grafting traditional aesthetic designs onto contemporary fashion design and integrating the two according to their common internal spirit.

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<거가잡복고(居家雜腹攷)>에 나타난 복색(服色)의 의미와 상징성

  • Jo, Hyo-Sun
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.17
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    • pp.83-91
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    • 1991
  • I observed the meaning and the symbolic charaeters about the color and style of clothes appearing at "GER GA JAP BOK GO" written by Kyu Soo Park. The black color of Hyun Eui as a ceremonial dress of man symbolizes Heaven and Virtue. The yellow color of Whang Sang as a ceremonial dress of man symbolizes the Earth and the Impartiality. The blue or black decoration line over white ground of Sim Eui as ordinary dress of man symbolizes also Filial Piety. In woman ordinary upper garment, So Eui, black texture edging with blue line implies the mutual symmetricity with her husband's. Besides, white color texture lining So Eui symbolical to a Devine Nature and Homage implies also the deep concealment of feminine body. The black ground color of child dress "Chi Po Eui" symbolizes Naivety, and the red silk color of it's decoration line, belt and tress ornaments implies the praise of the Virtue & Learning and also "Expel the Evil" of our traditional national characteristics. As described above the meaning and symbolic characters about the color and style of clothes appearing at "GER GA JAP BOK GO" has a very Chinese disposition, but it's author Kyu Soo Park modified somewhat to be in harmony with the real social situation of our Country during that latest stage of Yi Dynasty, because he was one of the prominent pragmatist at that time.

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A Study on Costume and It's Symbolism of the Movie (영화 <클레오파트라> 복식과 그 상징성 연구)

  • Yoon, Duck-Hoon;Cho, Kyu-Hwa
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.13 no.1
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    • pp.17-33
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    • 2009
  • The purpose of this study is to find the character of Cleopatra (69 B.C-30 B.C) by analyzing materials about Cleopatra, and to figure out symbolism and costume presented in movie . Costume of the main character, Cleopatra, compound the type of Egyptian traditional clothes, the change of it, and the trend in the 1960's. And, the symbolic meaning of it is also reinforced by adding ancient Egyptian myth to it. This kind of symbol is usually represented in Cleopatra clothing, especially in weaving pattern, embroidery, and ornament. And color of the clothes not only have their on predominance, but also can have their meaning fade away by mixed with each other, and also the shape has relation with the meaning of color. To sum up, the color and pattern of ancint Egyptian Cleopatra as alive formalize the power that come from coherence with the sun god in the center, which a used to maintain the power of the king. Costume in movie also contained color and pattern as a symbol of religion to symbolize the absolute power of king. These kinds of symbols are reemerging through historical recurrences and exotic interests.

Additional functions of the Kitchen in the Apartment (아파트 부엌공간의 부가적 기능에 관한 연구)

  • 박희진;김묘정
    • Journal of the Korean housing association
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    • v.14 no.3
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    • pp.101-108
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    • 2003
  • Kitchen has been an essential space and plays an important role in the house regardless of culture and regional differences. However, due to social and economical changes, kitchen is no longer used only for preparing food and dining which seem to be a traditional function. The purpose of this study is to investigate the additional functions of the kitchen and figure out the related variables. The survey method was used to collect data from 321 housewives living in the apartment sized over 99$\textrm{m}^2$(30 pyung) in Ulsan. The data were analyzed by SPSS/$PC^+$ with frequency, percent, and chi-squared test. The results of this study were: (1) Kitchen was now used for eating snacks(45.6%), keeping household account(42.5%), and chatting(41.6%). (2) Homemakers wanted to do laundry such as ironing, drying clothes, and folding clothes in the kitchen. However, there were several activities(i.e., grooming, rest and taking a nap, exercise) they do not want to do in the kitchen. (3) The variables which related to the additional functions of the kitchen were size of the apartment, age, and level of education. The findings of this study imply that there must be design considerations for chatting and keeping household account such as providing tables and comfortable chairs. In addition, new counter layout types should be developed based on needs of additional functions and related variables.

A Study on Symbolism of Man's Neckwear (남성용 네트웨어에 나타난 상징성)

  • 유태순
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.31
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    • pp.203-214
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    • 1997
  • The neck is the human body is closely con-nected with the life and properties of keeping warm as one of the opening part in clothes. In ancient times it was put on necklace for the protection of neck and in Rome it was worn muffler called focale for the protection of neck throat. in addition cravat directly originated in necktie today was primarily worn for the protection of soldier's neck and has been turned into decorative purpose until today. As the ornament is developed to vari-ous kinds of form the neck decoration is changed and grown again and again. Therefore this thesis studies history of the neckwear and various the symbolic factor. The first factor is the social. The neckwear shows the social position class and status and does social mutual interaction as conversation starters. The second factor is the mental It express individuality fondness attitude and is felt to be indignity by being forced to be worn. The third factor is the political. it shows political tendency by indicating the royal sign or part's sign in necktie like the French royal-ist's green muffler The forth factor is the man's sexual. I expresses wearing stock being brave symbol-izing independence. The sixth factor is the traditional. It is worn with appearing traditionand custom and one of cultural movements. The seventh factor is the ideological. It symbolizes the freedom of suffragettes and emancipation of woman. The social factor is the most extensive among them. The neckwear is various in the way of expression like its kinds and is generalized, It functions as a independent part of clothes.

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A Study on the Constructing and Designing Method of the Gal Ot (갈옷의 제작방법과 디자인 개발에 관한 연구)

  • 박순자;박덕자
    • Korean Journal of Rural Living Science
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    • v.5 no.2
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    • pp.207-215
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    • 1994
  • This study was conducted to expand the use of the Gal Ot which has been called Cheju-Do's folk costume. The Gal-Ot has been mainly used the traditional clothes which the farmers have worn during working in the fields. In this study, We firstly developed the dyeing methods used the immature persimmon juice and dyed the dress and fabrics. We secondly designed the diverse Gal-Ot which we can wear for the everyday dress, that is, men's and women's upper and lower clothes and reformed another Korean Style's Dresses and children's one-piece. This study strongly suggested that the Gal-Ot would be used for the everyday wear and the street wear for adults and children and that the improvement of dyeing method used the immature persimmon would be expanded the use of the Gal Fabrics.

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