• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.3 no.3
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• pp.219-226
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• 2001

This study analyzed the works, introduced in the collections of Thierry Mugler in an aim to identify formative aesthetic and design concepts. As the data to study the creative concepts and expressions of the designer, fashion photographs were gathered in a focus on collections. The formative aesthetic expressed in the works of Thierry Mugler were characterized by the eroticism and the futurism. The formative aesthetic of eroticism were specified into the sexualism, primitivism and fetishism, and those of futurism were divided into the cosmocorps and the grotesque. The eroticism was based on the design concept on the body of woman. The sexuality was expressed through the design concept of opposing, extreme and conversion method. The primitivism was presented through the design concept of extreme method to express a returning to nature and a nostalgia and an adoration for the past. The pieces, expressed the fetishism, was presented through opposing concepts, such as a bondage and an extreme expose. It was indicated that the design concept of futurism was based on the future. The cosmocorps was expressed through the extreme method by using geometrical formative aesthetic and contrast color combination. The grotesque represented the mysterious and abhorrent futurism through the design concept of depaysment conversion and analogy.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.27-39
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• 2006

Surrealism, appeared in the beginning of the 20th century and affected almost all art fields, is one of the most representative art trends. Surrealism, not restricted from any rules and traditions but tried to produce a new appreciations in the world of dream and unconsciousness, also has affected fashion. In this paper, I have tried to find out how the surrealism has been expressed in the modern fashion, especially in Thierry Mugller's design. Thierry Mugler is one of the most famous designers who have expressed surrealism in their fashion designs. I have classified his designs and researched them by the application into the human body and the nature, by the metaphor and transformation of things, and by the metamorphosis of location and an optical illusion. It was based on Depaysement which is one of the ways in surrealistic expressions. The result of the study is followings; First, surrealism made fashion design possible to creat unlimitedly and sublimated it anew modern beauty by attempting the varieties of the fashion, not restricted from any rules and traditions. Second, surrealism made the general public to complete anew recognition and valuation about fashion by expressing the external character and the internal meaning on the clothes. Third, surrealism made people to recognize, which clothes is not simply wearing thing but also one of the art expression forms.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.13-25
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to investigate the concept and characteristics of 'grotesque,' examine the aesthetic characteristics of grotesque reflected in arts and dress, and modern fashion. The findings are as follows: 1) Grotesque indicates unnatural, unpleasant, and exaggerated that it upsets or shocks person. The characteristics of grotesque include terror, abnormality, unreality, amusement, disgust. 2) The grotesque art represented terror, abnormality, unreality, amusement, disgust by disordered form, nonnatural things, evil world, unorthodox methods, unrealistic image, strange dreamland. 3) The grotesque dress represented terror, abnormality, unreality, amusement, disgust by exaggerated silhouette, exaggerated adornment, excessive decoration, incroyables, using exaggerated silhouette, crinoline silhouette, bustle silhouette, surrealist style, extraordinary materials, glam rock style, unique silhouette, cyber look. 3) Terror was implied in the punk look suits of Junya Watanabe, and exaggerated outers of Viktor & Rolf. Abnormality was shown in the atypical suit of John Galliano, Junya Watanabe's dress decorated with the extreme ruff, Thom Browne's suit of abnormal proportion. Unreality was reflected in the architectural dress of Gareth Pugh, Mermaid dress of Giles, the surreal suit of Jean-Charles de Castelbajac. Amusement was represented in the amusing suit of Gareth Pugh, John Galliano's dress of sexual perversion. Disgust was reflected in the decadent dress of Thierry Mugler, Undercove's suit, and the ensemble of shocking details.