• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.6
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• pp.101-115
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• 2001

This study is to examine the characteristics of fabrics in Koryo dynasty by reviewing the fabrics for enshrining oblations inside a buddhist statue in MoonSoo temple, which are currently possessed in SooDuk temple. The research results follows : The fabrics are 33 pieces in total : 28 Pieces of normal fabrics, 5 pieces of fabrics that is used for covering the five grains, and others like variegated silk threads. Out of 33 pieces of fabrics are there 31 pieces of silk and 2 pieces of ramie. The tabby fabrics, which have the most pieces among the fabrics, are 11 pieces in total. There are 1 piece of designed tabby fabri. whose patterns are expressed by dyeing. as well as non-designed tabby fabric. The twill fabrics are 8 pieces in total. Its patterns are mainly the type that small patterns are consecutively reiterated. And they have various patterns including plant patterns, such as lotus pattern, flower pattern. etc., animal patterns such as dragon pattern. etc., geometric patterns. such as turtoise-shell pattern. swastika, etc. The leno and gauze fabrics are 1 piece of 4-end complex designed-gauze and 1 piece of gill gauze. The compound woven fabrics are 2 pieces of brocaded gauze and 3 pieces of brocaded twill. Brocaded gauze is a kind of brocaded fabrics and is made by adding a gold thread between wefts of already weaved gauze. The figured fabrics are 1 piece of tabby fabric, 6 pieces of twill fabrics, 4 pieces of leno and gauze fabrics, and 5 pieces of compound woven fabrics. All of them are 16 pieces out of all 33 pieces and amount to almost 50%. Single-patterned fabrics, that is one pattern is expressed individually, are much more than any others. Plant patterns are the ones that are used the most.

• Proceedings of the Korean Fiber Society Conference
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• 2003.10a
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• pp.25-26
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• 2003

Electrically conducting polymers such as polypyrrole(PPy) or poly(3,4-ethylene dioxythiophene)(PEDOT) were sequentially polymerized chemically and electrochemically on various kinds of woven fabrics, giving rise to the fabrics with high electrical conductivity. The specific volume resistivity of the fabric prepared in this study was extremely low as 0.2 $\Omega$-cm. We figured out the electrically conducting fabrics were practically useful for many applications such as an EMI shielding material, a flexible surface heating element or a strain sensor for large deformation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.6
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• pp.715-724
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• 2003

The Korean clothing culture has shown rapid changes along with influences of western cultures, with social changes due to the liberation from Japan, the Korean War, and the economic growth concentrated on export since the westernization of Korea had begun. Also clothing materials, as a phase of such culture, have been changed. Among silk fabrics, "Dan (단: damask of satin texture with Korean traditional patterns are inwoven)", which has been concerned one of the most beautiful and precious fabrics due to its complexity and difficulty of processing. Since the beginning of the Era of Enlightenment(Kae-hwa-gi), Dan fabric materials and weaving methods have changed. It seems that the figured texture using the Jacquard loom began in 1936. when the Jacquard machine began to be imported from Japan into Korea. From that time on, new fabric materials, such as yangdan (양단), and popdan (법단), hobakdan (호박단), silk and rayon mixed Dan(교직양단) began to be produced. Before 1950's there were some restrictions about the Number of wefts, so the production of the one colored dan(단색단) was more common than that of the multi colored dan(다색단). But with the spread of 4$\times$4 shuttle box loom (양사정직기), various kinds of the multi colored dan have been produced after 1960's. Around the end of 1980's, automatic shuttle change loom have been generalized and 7 color dan(칠색단), 9 color gumsadan (구색금사단) have been current in multi colored dan. In terms of materials, synthetic and chemical textiles had been used widely and alter 1980's most fabrics, of which the ground weave is not being woven with satin-weave but being woven with plain or twill-weave, are named Dan in general.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.18
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• pp.19-34
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• 2017

Analysis of the species of wood in the wooden materials and the chemical composition of the fabric of the clothing excavated from the tomb of Yi Jing (1580-1642) has determined that the wooden materials, including the coffin (內棺, naegwan), burial chamber(外棺, oegwan), chilseongpan(七星板, bottom-lining board), and fan-shaped slats were made of pine(Pinus densiflora). The analysis of the fabrics suggested that the cloth attached to the fan-shaped slats, the funeral banner with inscriptions, and the five pouches for the corpse (五囊, onang) were all made of silk. The jacket was made of plain-weave cotton, while the inner and outer cloth of the socks were made of cotton and hemp, respectively. Among the silk items, the pouches for the left and right feet (constituting the five pouches for the corpse) were made from a satin-weave figured silk, while the other silk items were made of ju(紬), or plain-weave silk fabric. Infrared analysis revealed that the fan-shaped slats were decorated with cloud patterns across the entire surface, while the funeral banner and the five pouches for the corpse bore ink inscriptions.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.43-55
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• 2010

The major advantages to use CAD System are that it reduce time and effort to manufacture products, and also can demonstrate the condition of the final product prior to the actual manufacturing process of the selected design using the simulation programs in CAD system. Specially in weave design, for use as Computer-Aided Weaving system, the complicated Dobby weave can figured out easily through calculating the complex weave plans of multi shafts. As to one of dobby weave structures, Supplementary warp is the warp threads which are in addition to the regular warps of the woven fabrics, and used for decorating the band or expressing some patterns. The purpose of this study is to research the weave design of Supplementary warp using Computer-Aided Weaving system, which is dobby weave design program of Weave Point. For performing this design study, it was researched the classified woven fabrics depending upon weaving processing, Computer-Aided Weaving system, and the characteristic of Supplementary warp fabrics. On the basis of the theoretical research, Supplementary warp was worked for the 24-shafts AVL computer dobby loom that applied to the various patterned images. The design work was done by Weave Point program of dobby weave, and simulated to fabrics before woven into the computer dobby loom. To see the visual images of fashion items, these simulated bobby fabrics were processed by three-dimension modeling through YoungWoo CNI CAD system. All the patterns of the Supplementary warp in this study could be applied for decorating the fashion clothing and accessories.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.1-9
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• 2004

The dyeings of cotton and silk fabric with Laurus tree extracts were investigated. The colorant was extracted with distilled water at $100^{\circ}C$ for lh. Dyeability(K/S), color fastness and antibacterial property of cotton and silk fabric were tested under conditions of various time, temperature, concentration, repeat-number of dyeing and mordants. The characteristics of dyeings Laurus extracts were figured out by K/S and CIELab values and color-fastness test was estimated in terms of wash fastness and light fastness. The maximum wavelength of spectrum was 670nm. The K/S value of cotton and silk fabric increased with increasing dyeing time and the exhaustion was saturated in 90min. Optical dyeing temperatures of cotton and silk fabrics were $60^{\circ}C$ and $80^{\circ}C$, respectively. The mordant effect on cotton fabric was achieved using Fe mordant. On the other hand, the mordant effect on silk fabric was obtained using Fe and Cu mordants. The wash fastness of cotton fabric was higher than that of silk fabric. Antibacterial property of silk dyeing was greater than that of cotton dyeing. In addition, the excellent antibacterial effect was imparted by Fe-post mordant method.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.2 no.3
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• pp.137-156
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• 1998

In this study, the researcher studied the historical background, and the traditional culture about dress and ornament of Yunnan Province of China, The results of the study are as follows. 1. Dress and personal ornaments of the Va peoples vary with the locality. Their traditional dress and adornment is characterized by those in the Ximeng area. Men usually wear black or dark blue collarless jackets and black and dark blue loose and short bagged trousers with folding waist. Women usually wear close-fitting sleeveless pullover blouses with V-shaped necks and straight skirts with patterns of red and black cross stripes. 2. Jingpo men have changed to wear shirts with button down the front and trousers. They also entwine white turbans with red bobbles on both ends, and carry diagonally long knives, firelocks and red woolen figured satchels on their shoulders. Women usually wear black velvet blouses with silver bowl-shaped ornaments and chains around collars and on the fronts. They also wear red straight skirts with overlapped slit on the right, waistbands and waist hoops made of rattan and bamboo. 3. The Naxi nationality has a long history and excellent traditional culture. In modern times, women like to wear red, blue or purple laced blouses, long double-layered pleated skirts, waistbands and embroidered shoes. They wear their hair in buns with either hats or kerchiefs over them. While working or going out, they put on their "seven-star" capes made of sheepskin and embroidered with two big circles and seven small ones, while is a symbol of their frog totem. 4. The dress and adorment of the Jinuo people is simple, elegant and has its own unique characteristics. Men usually wear white buttonless shirts with round necks and an opening on the front, knee-length bagged trousers and legging. They wear cloth turbans, earrings and also put small bamboo or silver pipes in the holes of their earlobes. Women wear short buttonless blouses with round necks and seven coloured stripes and thin tight-fitting or embroidered triangular underwear. 5. The dress and ardorment of the Benglong (De' ang) nationality has its own strong national colour. Most of the men wear jackets with buttons arranged diagonally on the front, loose, short trousers and black or white turbans. Some young men like to wear eardrops and silver necklaces. Women's dress and adornment differs according to various branches. For example, the women of the Bielie and Liang branches have their hair shaved and wear black turbans. They use large square silver tablets as buttons and wear blue or black blouses with buttons down the front. 6. Oai men usually wear trousers, white or blue cloth turbans and round-necked shirts with buttons down the front or arranged diagonally on the front. Women usually wear long straight skirt and blouses. But dress and adornment varies in regions. 7. The Bai nationality dress and adornment has unique national style. The dress fabrics are mainly cotton cloth, silk and velvet. Men usually wear red velvet vests over white shirts with buttons down the front or black velvet vests over light blue shirts. They also wear white of blue turbans and carry satchels with beautiful embroidered designs over their shoulders. Women usually wear red velvet vests over white blouses, or black vests over light-coloured blouses.