• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.145-165
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• 1994

This paper analyzes how Cultural identity described by dress in Pearl S. Buck's novel. The result shows that dress described Ethnic identity, Other cultural identity, Dual cultural identity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.7
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• pp.37-45
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• 2003

This study is to research the changing trends in the trading goods and the cause of the change in the early Chosun dynasty and to find out the influence that the export goods had on the Chosun society. This research demonstrated the costume culture of the early Chosun was affected by the trading trends. The export items of Chosun showed differences in chronological order. They changed from hemp cloth to cotton cloth. The cause of such change in the export items was due to the change in the amount of demand and supply, to products of Chosun. and to social factors. Looking at the amount and items of the export goods to Japan, the amount was huge and the number of trade was a lot. There were several influences that the exporting cotton cloth to Japan had on Chosun's costume culture. First, the export caused the growth of cotton industry through the reinforcement policy. Next, it made the amount of national deposit of cotton cloth exhausted as a result of the increase in the amount of the exporting cotton. It also made worse the dual distribution structure of cotton cloth and the leaning toward bad cotton cloth. And in consequence of the connection between rich merchants and politicians, these social phenomena became worse and worse. And these facts demonstrate that the costume culture of the early Chosun dynasty was affected by the trade between Chosun and Japan. Therefore, to better understand the costume culture of the early Chosun dynasty, I propose to consider the consequences resulted from the trade with Japan.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.5
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• pp.677-691
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• 2020

A lot of work has been done on the topic of Korean traditional costume. In spite of the amount of the work, however, not much work has appeared that summarizes the overall research trend in such a way that we gain insights into the future direction of the Korean traditional costume field. This study aims to work out an analysis of the research trend that may shed light on the current status of the field and also on the things that have to be done to further develop the Korean costume design field. The analysis reported in this work is based on the articles that appeared in two journals: Journal of the Korean Society of Costume published by the Korean Society of Costume (2,661 articles from the year 1977 to 2019) and Journal of Korean Traditional Costume published by the Society of Korean Traditional Costume (762 articles from the year 1998 to 2019). The result of the analysis shows that only a very small amount of work is devoted to actual designing of Korean traditional costume, and this has to change to globalize Korean traditional fashion and draw worldwide attention to it. So more work is needed particularly on actual designing of Korean traditional costume. This does not mean that we simply have to maintain tradition and replicate the original designs, but we have to endeavor to work out novel designs by, for instance, creative destruction and restructuring, maintaining the essence of the tradition of Korean costume.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.1-17
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• 2008

This research analyzes the patterns in modernization of costume that reflects the attitude of accepting the Western culture and the differences in perception, during modernization period (1850-early 1910) in Japan. The Japanese attitude toward the Western costume can be roughly classified into three periods: impetuous acceptance in the early Restoration of Imperial Regime(1867-1883), aggressive acceptance in Rokumeikan period(1883-1887), and the coexistence of traditional and modern costumes after Meiji 20(1887-1910). A Western costume symbolizes wealth and power until Rokumeikan period, however, as it becomes more common, it is considered as an ordinary dress rather than a ceremonial dress. The exact opposite phenomenon occurs to traditional costume. Although Japanese modernization is initially forced by western ideology of power, positive reactions to western culture and changes in perception toward China leads to more active importation of western culture. This reflects the governmental effort such as the Foreigners Employment Policy in the early Meiji period, and the public also became receptive toward change. However, acceptance of the Western culture is only limited to academic and technological areas, while the traditional Japanese ethos(the Emperor system, Shintoism, patriarchism) is obstinately protected. Therefore, it can be inferred that such extreme polarization of modernization and traditional inheritance enabled both perspectives to retain their own characteristics.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.217-244
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• 1997

This study is about the Korean Jockey's uniform, etc. and horse riding costume as the traditional riding culture grows. I studied informations from the Korea Racing Association's equestrian park, equine museum and Seoul Racecourse Trainers & Jockey's Association. The international regulations of riding costume are compared with Korean regulations, and I consulted some reference books, materials of sports wear and catalogues of some brands regarding horse equipment. The contents includes ; 1. Analysis of informations about horse racing 2. Study of racing, for detail comparative analysis on the following aspects ; -Symbolism, riding costume of jockey, that is, color·pattern·and some formal designs. 3. Suggestion for reasonable and fashionable riding costumes. In the aspects of design, there have not been any historical records, and material adjustments about riding costume in Korea. Therefore we should make more efforts to do developing our traditional costume culture. The result o this study is as follows ; 1. Riding is the sport of etiquette and manners. 2. Most of riding wears are the casual wear centered foreign licenced brands. 3. Study and investment upon specialized material development and processing technology are in demand 4. The need of the consumers are to be satisfied by the quality improvement of the native products design. In addition, we perform to horse racing which is fine play and leisure sports in current society. The horse riding will be a popular sports such as golf, wind surfing, skiing, etc. with the period including lots of kinds of leisure.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.82-99
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to investigate the traditional costume colors in ancient Korea. The results of this study can be summarized follows : The traditional costume colors in ancient Korea was affected on Chineses goverment official\`s costume colors, specially in Tongil Silla Dynasty. Goverment official\`s costume colors were purple(紫), red(赤), yeoolw(黃), blue(靑). The traditional Korean colors for clothes were devided in the white costume for low class and the colored costume of high class. The traditional Korean colors for colthes became fixed in the later Chosun dynasty, According to developing of dyeing technic, the prohibition of red costume for low class made for wear red undercloth. And on account of costume color in sumptuary law occured the transition of costume color. As transition of costume color, yellow(黃) changed in light in light yellow(松花色), purple(紫) did in dark green purple(茶割) Also it was found that the traditional Korean color for clothes was many kinds of soft, deep, natural colors out of red(紫)·yellow(黃)·white(白)·black(黑)·blue(靑).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.8 s.99
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• pp.48-56
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• 2005

Foreign culture, introduced by cultural exchange, was modified and accepted into a new form and value system. Culture speaks for the characters of the period, so it is presented by the mutual actions of many factors affecting culture. Religion is the essence of human life and the source of ideas about life, the universe and existence, so they become hidden inside of the structure of culture. Dancing costumes present the process of cultural modification and acceptance more vividly than general costumes. This research shows that, among foreign cultures, it is Buddhism that most influenced Chinese dancing costume. Taoism was the Chinese native religion that played an oppositional role against Buddhism. Taoism was hidden in Chinese dancing costume in every age. Chinese dancing costume changed many times due to the import of exotic styles such as Buddhism that partially replaced the Taoistic tradition. Therefore, it is confirmed that the process of cultural importation of exotic style was different according to the social, historical, and cultural backgrounds of China during the period from the Han to the Sui and Tang dynasties.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.4 s.94
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• pp.124-137
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• 2005

Foreign culture, introduced by cultural exchange, was modified and accepted into a new form and value system. Culture speaks for the characters of the period, so it is presented by the mutual actions of many factors affecting culture. Religion is the essence of human life and the source of ideas about life, the universe and existence, so they become hidden inside of the structure of culture. Dancing costumes present the process of cultural modification and acceptance more vividly than general costumes. This research shows that, among foreign cultures, it is Buddhism that most influenced Chinese dancing costume. Taoism was the Chinese native religion that played an oppositional role against Buddhism. Taoism was hidden in Chinese dancing costume in every age. Chinese dancing costume changed many times due to the import of exotic styles such as Buddhism that partially replaced the Taoistic tradition. Therefore, it is confirmed that the process of cultural importation of exotic style was different according to the social, historical, and cultural backgrounds of China during the period from the Han to the Sui and Tang dynasties.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.5
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• pp.697-710
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• 2003

The Purpose of this study was to prospect new costume culture of 21st Century and to understand the meaning of clothing and clothing behavior which represent on Korean Seasonal Costumes expressed in novel, Honpul. The results were as follows; There are special Costumes in a Year. They are New year, First full moon, Servants day, making seasonings, Doo Rae, Wha-cheon Nori(enjoying blossoms) Costumes during spring season, Dan-Oh Costume in summer and Ya-Kwang-Gui(keeping shoes at all night), Su-Ya(overnight), Yeam-Bal(burning dropped hairs) Costume in winter season. There were many relationship with clothing in new year, Wha-cheon Nori and Servants day Costumes, but they only had adorning meaning without special symbolic or incantational meaning. Clothing and clothing behaviors in Seasoning making day Costume, Dan-Ho costume and Ya-Kwang-Gui, Su-Ya, Yeam-Bal Costumes contained practical meaning with incantational meaning. There were Servants day costumes and Doo-Rae Costumes for lower classes, New year and Wha-cheon Nori costumes for the higher classes. But the First full moon day costume was for both classes. This study will make us to grasp the meaning of clothing culture with Korean Seasonal Costumes, and be useful to measure the changes of Korean costume cultures.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.317-335
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• 1994

The purpose of this thesis is to analyze the relation of the mentalistics linguistics and costume, and to clarify the relationship between language as psychological expressions and costume to understand the phenomena of human costume behavior more deeply and comprehensively. As for the analysis of he costume phenomena, Noam Chomsky's psychological linguistic theory were applied to costume system. In this respect, particularly, by means of Chomsky's later theory(1965), the costume behavior were analyzed. The followings are the findings of the analysis : 1. The Syntactic Component: (※ See Full-Text) 2. The Semantic Component. The costme behavior is similar to a language system. Just as one morpheme or a phrase and phrases make different sentences, so various methods wearing costume make different sentences, so various methods wearing costume make different forms is costume. Language and costume have dictionary entry showing the meaning of vocabulary, and rules combining the individual meaning of the dictionary entry to complete the sentence.