• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.179-196
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• 2009

This is a follow-up study to "An Analysis of the Fitting of Plus-sized Women's Formal Jackets in On-line Shopping Malls", in which we compiled basic sizes of formal jackets sold in online retailers for plus-sized women and compared specific measurements of the jackets from each retailer. Emphasizing a comparison of age groups 20-39 and 40-59, fit evaluations and analyses were conducted in order to provide data to help manufacturers develop formal jacket patterns that reflect physical characteristics of plus-sized consumers and offer better physical fit. The surveys and evaluations were conducted between October 2007 and May 2008. and the compiled data were analyzed using the SPSS 17.0 statistics program. The results were summarized as follows. The two age groups gave different evaluations of the fit problems in the women's formal jackets sold in online retailers. Whereas the age group 20-39 felt that the main problems were in the shoulder, armscye, upper arm, waist, abdomen and hip areas, the age group 40-59 said that they found more problems in the armscye, upper arms, sleeve length and jacket length. Modifying the shoulder area, armscye depth and jacket length severely compromises the jacket's balance, and attention to these areas must be given during pattern design.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.101-110
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• 2009

Danchung(丹靑) is the traditional Korean patterns that are decorated with various colorful patterned paintings upon each sections of wooden architecture. Although Danchung consists of variety patterns with the meaningful signs and symbols, as an accomplishment of Korean traditional images, there is a few fashion merchandise by Danchung patterns. Therefore, the purpose of this study is about to design Jacquard fabrics, and to develop bags of Jacquard fabric by Danchung patterns, as a differentiated cultural Fashion Merchandise. The theoretical background was researched for the geometric image of Danchung patterns on the basis of the basic elements, compositions and symbolic meanings of Danchung. The geometric image of Danchung patterns, which had the shape of circle, triangle, square and hexagon, was designed to the surface design by Jacquard CAD system(i.e., EAT Designscope by Germany) and woven into Jacquard fabrics by Stabuli electronic Jacquard system. Danchung patterns for fabric design in this study was mainly focused on 'ChipJaGum', 'SamJiChangGum', 'ShouSulGum', Moro patterns of lotus flower(蓮花), Rok-Wha(綠花) and so on. To development bags of jacquard fabric, those woven jacquard fabrics were manufactured to bags by applying the selected of twelve bag-designs among the current bag styles. These manufactured bags of jacquard fabrics in geometric Danchung patterns were appeared a contemporary yet ethnic feeling so that they can be used for the unique korean cultural products to further commercialization.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.44 no.6 s.220
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• pp.163-174
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• 2006

The purpose of this research was to examine the level and trends in household clothing expenditure in Korea. Raw data sets produced by the National Statistical Office from the Family Income and Expenditure Survey from 1991 to 2004 were used to support time-series and cross-sectional analyses. The clothing expenditures decreased severely and quickly during the economic crisis of late 1997 through 1998, then increased slowly after the economic crisis until 2003, only to slightly decrease again in 2004. The ratio of clothing expenditure to total household expenditure decreased from 8.03% in 1991 to 5.11% in 2004. This decrease in relative clothing expenditure was greater in the lower income group than in the middle and high income groups. Clothing expenditure patterns were unique and differed from other household expenditures. Although the economic crisis in the late 1990s affected Korean consumers' clothing expenditure, clothing expenditure patterns showed a more fundamental and structural change from 1991 to 2004, with the overall decrease in such expenditure resulting from the concurrent increase in educational and information-communication related expenditures. Clothing expenditure was shown to be luxurious through cross-sectional analysis, but necessary through time-series analysis.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.68-75
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• 2008

Demands and attempts to express Korean traditional beauty are increasing. Some schools choose the uniform in designs expressing the image of Hanbok, but recently there is a few increment of wearing the uniforms. For the improvement of the uniforms, first of all, the shape and the clothing materials of the uniforms should be considered. We have compared and analyzed the shape and the clothing materials of the uniforms reflecting the image of Hanbok, according to seasons and clothing items. The uniforms reflecting the image of Hanbok were worn in eight schools and all of them are Saenghwal Hanbok style. The shape of Saenghwal Hanbok school uniforms showed both Korean style and western style characteristics. Korean style characteristics were expressed through the appearance-related parts while western style characteristics showed through the performance-related parts such as open/closure method, armhole pattern and straight sleeve line. It was shown that girls' uniforms are more diverse and similar to the western style uniforms than boys' uniforms. It was found that most of the clothing material were synthetic fiber or mixture of natural/synthetic fiber, and polyester was shown to be used most.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.347-362
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• 2012

The analysis results of the characteristics of children's clothes for school girls from the 2006S/S-2010S/S collections reveal that the most frequent type of item composition was 2'PS & 3'PS. T-shirts were the popular kind of item for upper garments and pants for lower garments. The major silhouettes were H and A line. The predominant neckline was U, which was followed by camisole and V. The major collar styles were stand-up and flat. Chromatic colors were used more than achromatic ones and after white the most popular colors were blue, pink, red, black, navy, and green. The dominant color scheme was a two-color or three-color scheme. The percentage of solid and patterned material garments was the highest and the most popular pattern was flowers. The most popular style of garment had no decorative detail that was followed by one-item, two-item, and three-item decoration. The major kinds of decorative detail were frills, pleats, and prints.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.65-74
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• 2013

The visual sensibility and preferences are closely related with color combinations, stripe intervals, and stripe complexity. We studied the effect of stripes characteristics on visual sensibility and preferences for men's shirts fabrics. As a result of a factor analysis, the adjectives were classified by viewers into 5 factors as attraction, maturity, dignity, practicality, and simplicity. We found that stripe intervals had a significant visual effect on maturity, dignity, and practicality. The uneven stripes had higher scores for dignity and practical while lower for mature. The stripes with consecutive order of two different thickness were felt more strongly in attractive, practical, and preferred. The results also showed that stripes with compound and contrast colors were attractive and preferred.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.4
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• pp.25-37
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• 1981

Art Nouveau style refers to the movement of art which was started in France and Belgium in the last decade of the 19th and the early years of the 20th century. The distinguishing characteristics of Art Nouveau style are the sensous sinuosity of its line, nervously undulating, curving over itself, rhythmical, flowing in endless patterns, which are inspired by animals and plants, specially by flowers, leaves, long stalks. The Art Nouveau style includes also the extreme simplicity of form, and asymmetric design. This new trend of art movement spread into architecture, furniture, wall papers, graphic design, accessories and textiles. In this paper, I tried to find out whether or not the Art Nouveau style had an effect on clothing. Because I believe clothing, like architecture, painting, and sculpture, is an Art form that derives from a particular set of cultural circumstances and reflects the needs and aspirations of the society for which it is created. Fashions in clothing over the last five thousand years have mirrorred the art form as well as the spirit. The result of this study shows that the Art Nouveau style made a lasting contribution to the modernism of clothing as well as architecture and interior design at the end of 19th century and the early years of the 20th century. The modernism of clothing appeared in the straight silhouette, asymmetric design, simple and light trimming, embroidery with Art Nouveau pattern, and stylized flower design in textile. Art Nouveau made a great contribution toward the modern clothing to have its liveliness and its harmonious relationship between clothing design and the use of materials.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.47
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• pp.125-142
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• 1999

Dancing along with mankind has existed in various ways form old age to the present. This dancing combined with artistic meaning is called the art of dancing. This study is mainly about the functions decorations and expressions of dancing costume and the claracteristics of the costumes by the 20th century designers Leon bakst Oskar Schlemer Pablo Picasso. The dancing costume were not so much different from those of the public from old age to middle age. In 18th and 19th centuries the length of the cotstumes become short from the knee to the thigh. The functions have much to do with the development of dancing for example the appearance of toeshoes. The costumes are designed not to prevent the movements of dancers smooth line in old age and ladylike vend high-blown line in the 18th and 19th centuries. Cotton and hemp textiles are turning into the transparent forms such as lace and gauge. The personal ornaments earings and necklaces have change into the pattern with wings and tassels. The dancing costumes of Leon Bakst Oskar Schlemer and Pablo Picasso are designed after the due consideration of body shape. Bakst focused on the beauty of smooth lines with splendid colors and decorations. Schlemer analyzed the body abstractly and metaphysically and expressed it with detaile and simple lines. Picasso emphasized cubic forms with cubism and expressed the characteristics of costumes with clear colors and smooth curved line. Bakst Schlemer and Picasso made the early 20th century the age of functional dancing costumes putting a light on the concept of space and foundation for the modern dancing costumes.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.707-714
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• 2007

This study was conducted by surveying 300 female college students in Yanbian University and 248 surveys were considered for final analysis. Each question was rated according to 5 point scale in which 1 means 'not at all' and 5 means 'definitely'. The data of this study was statistically analyzed by SAS PC program, the factor analysis, cluster analysis, ANOVA and Duncan-test and t-test. The results are summarized as follows; The clothing attitude of the college students is classified into four factors: fashionable, brand-oriented, aesthetic and modest. The behavior pattern was categorized into four groups: conservative modest group, aesthetic modest group, fashionable aesthetic group and brand oriented group. The perception and buying desire of the fashionable aesthetic group and the brand oriented group on clothing made in Korea were higher than those of the other two groups. As the perception and buying desire on clothing made in Korea depended on the average monthly expense for clothing, the group with high expense for clothing showed higher means compared to the low expense group for clothing.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.19-29
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• 2003

The 3D measurement data expected be useful to give appropriate garment fit and development of MTM(Made-to-Measure) CAD software. The researcher surveyed the need and use of national anthropometric data of the apparel industry. 17 Korean apparel manufacturers participated in the study. The need of anthropometric data at 5 different apparel business sectors was measured: men's suit, women's dress, casual-wear, underwear, and active sportswear. The result of the survey shows that height and bust, waist, hip circumferences are needed by all of the business sectors. The body measurements at the scye and upper arm area were need most by the men's suit manufacturers. The women's foundation garment manufacturers were well prepared for the use of the 3D body scan data and they expected the potential benefits of 3D body scan data would be great. The researcher also conducted a case study and found a pro and con of the using 3D body scan data for apparel product developing process. In the current stage of technical advance, a reasonable method was required to get nude like scan data for the women's foundation garment manufacturer. The researcher concluded that the apparel designer could use the 3D scan data for developing tremendous style garment design and pattern making.