• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제17권6호
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• pp.881-894
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• 2015

The silver generation have clothing style of optimal daily life comparing than young generation because they do not participate a specific sport event but daily- life exercise. As the human body ages, the figure of the silver generation shows different body shape because upper body changes to curved figure including the belly and waist part. Therefore, clothing characteristics for the silver generation should be considered with proper function, design and textiles to optimize body movement. This study investigated various exercise types according to motion analysis of the silver generation in order to develop the design of the active T-shirts reflecting the structural properties and providing the optimum exercise circumstance. The results to consider design needs are as followed; As the T-shirts design for the flexible exercise which required frequent movement of upper body such as bending and waist twisting during body stretching, a stretch fabric applied to the waist part considering T-shirts allowance and length to make extreme elongation and support for well-fitting appearance of the T-shirts. As the T-shirts design for the instantaneous reactionary exercise, high elastic four-way stretch fabric is applied to the part of arm hole to optimize skeletal and muscle movement for entire body and arm work. As the T-shirts design for the endurance exercise such as climbing, cycling, and walking, the shoulder line of the back part has cutting line allowance to make optimum movement of the upper body but no change of the waist part.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제17권3호
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• pp.429-439
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• 2015

This study develops a new brassiere for new silver women. A new brassiere design was developed for the silver generation based on apreliminary survey; subsequently, a wire and no-wire type of brassier were developed after a second fitting evaluation. The results were as follows. First, in terms of brassiere design, the cup shape was designed as mold type full cup, shoulder straps were designed as camisole type with cups, bias tape was designed for body correction in the side line and mash tape was designed for easy movement below the cups. On the other side ofthe cup shape was a pocketdesigned on a support pad forthe wire type and a support panel to serve as a wire in the no-wire type brassiere. Second, brassiere patterns were designed by referencing the educational H pattern. Thetotal length was elongated by 5cmto reduce pressure when wearing a brassiere and the height of the front center increased by 8cm for the stability of the front center of the brassiere. In addition, the side line was moved back by 3cm and the width of the brassiere wings was designed widely at 10.5cm. Third, a wearing test was conducted for the wire type and the no-wire type brassiere with comparison products, using a 7-point Likert scale. Appearance results and movement tests for the wire and no-wire type showed a higher score than comparison products.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제18권4호
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• pp.520-530
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• 2016

This research aims to propose an ergonomic design process for hip protector based on previous studies, existing products, multidisciplinary experts opinion, and wearing test. The elderly are more likely to suffer a hip fracture when they fall due to their physical changes in skeletal form, muscle quantity, bone density, and joint movement. A hip protector is an effective product to prevent hip fractures in the elderly but it also has a problem in that it is uncomfortable. Therefore there is a high chance that it won't be able to prevent hip fractures properly. Since the comfort of a hip protector is one of the most critical elements in preventing a hip fracture, we need to keep improving the hip protector for mobility and usability. Based on the previous studies and limitations of current hip protector products, we need to come up with an optimal design for the Korean elderly. First, knowledge has to be built relating to the ergonomic design of the hip protector considering body shape and size analysis using 3D-scan data, and biomechanical analysis on hip fracture. Second, we need to develop a design process including hip protector pattern design, and wearing evaluation with virtual system. Third, we suggest to reevaluate and verify the design procedure from impact evaluation using testing simulator, virtual evaluation of impact, to wearing comfort and usability evaluation. This design process presented in this study would be expected to contribute to the development of ergonomic hip protector which is suitable for the Korean elderly.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제13권4호
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• pp.319-329
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• 1989

The present paper mainly cocerns, in social aspect of the cultural change, with how cholik was introduced and accepted in $Kory\v{o}$ dynasty. It was through cultural transmission in political relations with Won dynasty that $ch\v{o}$ lik was first listed on our own costume system in later $Kory\v{o}$ dynasty. The acceptance by $Kory\v{o}$ society can be interpreted as the twofold effects; positively, it enriched our costume system and, negatively, it brought about various conflicts, which in turn caused some unwelcome reactions. Once it had permeated into $Kory\v{o}$ culture. it could not avoid being changed by social conditions. The changing process can be defined as the dual cycles of fashion. The first one startd at mid peroid of $Kory\v{o}$ when King $Chung-ry\v{o}$l provided a law to wear the $W\v{o}n$ costume and. ended at larter $Kory\v{o}$ of King Kong-min's reign. The second cycle rose in the period between King Sejong's reign and late $Chos\v{o}n$. Each of the two cycles appeared to have its own characteristics; 1. The first cycle. 1) In spite of the long period of a century, the cycle was very abrupt both in development and decline. 2) The abrupt pattern of the cycle can be attributed to the nation-wide law provided by the ruler. 2. The second cycle. 1) Compared with the first cycle, the curve was rather slow. 2) The fashion originated from the hyperimitation of the government officials, since the costume was the royal gift by Chinese Emperor. 3) The main cause of the development of the fastion was the wars, rather than the public preference. 4) The main cause of the decline of the fashion was that it could no more differentiate the social status, that the wearer was laughed at by the Chinese, and that the long period of wearing the same dress stimulated the fashion psychology. 5) The increasing size of the costume rather decreased the very function of the costume.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제18권4호
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• pp.549-559
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• 1994

The purpose of this study was to study accumlated residual soils which may be one of the causes for yellowing of worn cloths. Wear and wash tests of white cotton undershirts were repeated at 30 households sellected at random over a period of 60 days. Laundry conditions were similar to home laundry habits in a fact-finding survey, using a powdery heavy duty detergent containing no enzymes or enzymes. The subjects in this study were survey of laundry actual condition, the undershirts from prior to and after the final washing was measured residual soils, $L^*a^*b^*$ value and mellowness index of CIE system. D3ta were analysed by simple correlation analysis of wear and wash cycle, residual soils, whiteness The results obtained were summarized as follows: 1. Using pattern of washing machine, Presoaking was no singinificant differnece in general characteristics of survey respondent. Laundry frequency was significant difference in income level, occupation of housewives whether or not. Use of cold and hot water was significant difference in residence shape. 2. The analyzed consequences of recognition and actual behavior in connection with laundry were found variables each other to have independence or not. 3. Amount of residual sebum soils is using non-enzyme detergent were much more than in using enzyme detergent, increased linearly with increase of the number of wear and wash cycles. 4. Residual protein soils with increase of the number wear and wash cycles less than in laundering more easy than sebum soils. Since accumulated residual sebum soils were much more than residual protein soils. 5. Increase of residual soils was raised mellowness index and diminshed whiteness. yellowness index of residual sebum soils was higher than protein soils. If increase of whiteness will be incresed, amount of residual sebum soils will be decreased sebum soils. Because amount of residual sebum soils much more than protein soils, yellowness index of residual sebum soils was more higher than that of protein soils.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제18권3호
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• pp.339-347
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• 1994

In this study the physiological significance of the upper and lower body on thermoregulation and sensation are examined. Experiments were carried out on 4 females in a climatic chamber conditioned at $25\pm1^{circ}C, 50\pm5%$ R.H.. Before the measurements, subjects were exposed to 3 types of enviromental temperature: 1) $25\pm1^{\circ}C$ for 60 min.(ST), 2) $25^{\circ}C$\rightarrow35^{circ}C\rightarrow25^{\circ}C$ for about 40 min.(HT), 3) $25^{\circ}C$\rightarrow15^{circ}C\rightarrow25^{\circ}C$ for about 40 min.(LT) covering the upper body (U) or lower body (L) with garments. 1) $T_{re}$ was significantly higher in L than in U only in 57 condition. $T_{sk}$ and Temp. under the clothing were higher in U than in L in all three conditions. Thermal sensation was warmer in U than in L, and comport sensation was most comfortable in HT condition. 2) When the upper or lower body was covered or exposed, the mean skin temperature of the upper body was higher than that of the lower body. Following covering and uncovering the same area, the changes in skin temperature were greater in the upper body than in lower body, and covering the upper body produced a greater difference of skin temperature between body and lower body than covering the lower body. 3) In all environmental conditions, when the upper body was uncovered, the skin temperatures of the chest, upper arms and forearms dropped to a considerable degree, and when the lower body was uncovered, skin temperatures of the legs showed the same pattern. On the other hand, skin temperature of the thinghs showed only little change in all cases except forehead and back uncovered or covered in two clothing types.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제40권3호
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• pp.427-436
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• 2016

Protective clothing developed for rose flower farmers has been evaluated to improve the working conditions. The requirements of rose farmers were first identified to design protective clothing for farmers working with thorny plants. A fit test was conducted to assess the thermal comfort and protective function against thorn pricking to compare and evaluate the usability of developed experimental clothing with existing working clothes. Based on the survey results of rose farmers' requirements, protective clothing was designed in the form of an apron (which was the most preferred after gloves) with a pattern designed for the production of experimental clothing. For the developed protective clothing, the strap and buckle closure method was selected to open the back of the body as much as possible; in addition, sleeves were made in the attachable form of a half-sleeve to protect the arms from the thorns. The fit test of the developed protective clothing and existing working clothes revealed the temperature and humidity inside the developed protective clothing to be significantly different in the back compared to existing work clothes. In addition to thermal sensations, the subjective humidity sensations were statistically significant different in the developed protective clothing compared to existing work clothes. The subjective protective function for thorn pricking was also found to be satisfactory.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제39권3호
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• pp.353-368
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• 2015

Walter Van Beirendonck expresses a fairy tale world of perverted sexual desire of sadism and masochism, violence, and aggressiveness that breaks from a transient one-time concept as is an essential element of fashion. This study classifies the aesthetic characteristic shown on the design of Walter Van Beirendonck and analyzes the intent of his symbolism and meaning. The attempt has a meaning in exploring a new directionality of fashion by conveying a critical message to this end, contemporary fashion breaks down boundaries with artistic genre and connects a problematic consciousness that exists in life with fashion. The results of study on the aesthetic characteristics of Walter Van Beirendonck are as follows. First, Beirendonck emphasized an interpersonal image about body by giving a question through the deconstruction of image on a perfect body into race, age, and body based on body modification. Second, fetishism appeared as a consciousness that human identity and character can be changed by connecting a fetish element of sexual identity, and sadism and masochism with fashion's imagination. Third, infantilism as an amusement expression of the form metaphorically satirized life of modern people. Fourth, makeup shown on performance or festival of an African tribe was used in the way of mixture or reuse for ethnography to obtain inspiration from ethnography. Fifth, pop art combined a popular culture code as amusement through mass production and mass media. Aesthetics of Beirendonck do not have norm and are bold in using form, color, pattern, print, and styling because Beirendonck reinterpreted critical attitudes about essential problems that human life entails into a motif of his symbolic meaning in amusement. In regards to his design aesthetics, Beirendonck expanded fashion to the scope of Gesamtkunstwerk in a consistent and continued theme combined with philosophical creativity and differentiated from other fashion designers.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권7호
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• pp.1149-1161
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• 2010

This study identifies the dimensions of cosmetics consumption values and the differences in cosmetics brand selection through a cosmetics consumption value group and by product type. The subjects of the study were females over age 20 living in Seoul and Gyeonggi Province between January and February 2008; 427 questionnaires were used for analysis. For data analysis the SPSS 17.0 statistical program was used, and principal component analysis, factor analysis using Varimax rotation, Cronbach's ${\alpha}$ reliability testing, cluster analysis, ANOVA test, and Duncan test were conducted. The results and conclusions of this study are as follows. The dimensions of cosmetics consumption values were found to be the pleasure value, the fashion value, the function value, the brand ostentation value, and the appearance ostentation value. Five types of groups by factor were identified: the group seeking function, the group seeking fashion and brand ostentation, the group seeking pleasure, the group seeking appearance and brand ostentation, and the indifferent group. Second, The group attaching importance to functionality was more likely to select high-priced brands while the group attaching importance to brand awareness were more likely to seek foreign brands, irrespective of product type. As far as base and color cosmetics are concerned, the group attaching importance to pleasure was more likely to select low, medium, and high priced foreign brands, as well as low and medium priced domestic brands. As for body products, the group attaching importance to fashion and brand awareness tended to select low, medium, and high priced domestic brands, as well as high priced foreign brands. By simultaneously purchasing high, medium, and low priced brands, these groups display an ambivalent consumption pattern. This study identified the differing dimensions around cosmetics consumption values and cosmetic brand selection. The research findings helps cosmetic companies set product prices and contributes to cosmetic marketing strategies.

• 복식
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• 제46권
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• pp.159-170
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• 1999

This study was for reasonable gathering by a fabric and a skirt length. So the purpose of this study was to show the basic data to forecast the gathering effect of gathered skirt which was more aesthetical and suitable for a use in time of making pattern. To find the reasonable gathering amount by a length of gathered skirt and a fabric the methods of this study were divided on three types-five kinds of the gathering amounts three kinds of fabrics and three kinds of skirt ength-so forty five kinds of the samples were made. As the visual evaluation of the gathered skirt were practiced bgy these factors. The following are the results of this research. 1. For this research of fabrics the gathering amounts which were shown visually the most aesthetical silhouette in the same material and skirt length were decided on 1.5 times or 2.0 times. On the other side 0.5 times and 2.5 times of gathering amount were got a low estimation visually 2. Except in case the skirt length was 40cm and gathering amount were 1.0 times and 1.5 times in the same gathering amount and length of skirt it was estimated that wool fabric was most aesthetical silhouette fabric. On the other hand it was got low estimation which the cotton was not good for draping effect because it was got the lowest estimation level in all cases. 3. Considered as a whole in the same gathering amount and fabric the fabric widths for gathering which were shown the most aesthetical silhouette were estimated the length of 60cm in cotton fabric 80cm in polyester fabric and 40cm in wool fabric. Therefore as a fabric was weighty a length of a skirt was shorten so, it was estimated visually more beautiful.