• 한국의류학회지
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• 제18권3호
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• pp.339-347
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• 1994

In this study the physiological significance of the upper and lower body on thermoregulation and sensation are examined. Experiments were carried out on 4 females in a climatic chamber conditioned at $25\pm1^{circ}C, 50\pm5%$ R.H.. Before the measurements, subjects were exposed to 3 types of enviromental temperature: 1) $25\pm1^{\circ}C$ for 60 min.(ST), 2) $25^{\circ}C$\rightarrow35^{circ}C\rightarrow25^{\circ}C$ for about 40 min.(HT), 3) $25^{\circ}C$\rightarrow15^{circ}C\rightarrow25^{\circ}C$ for about 40 min.(LT) covering the upper body (U) or lower body (L) with garments. 1) $T_{re}$ was significantly higher in L than in U only in 57 condition. $T_{sk}$ and Temp. under the clothing were higher in U than in L in all three conditions. Thermal sensation was warmer in U than in L, and comport sensation was most comfortable in HT condition. 2) When the upper or lower body was covered or exposed, the mean skin temperature of the upper body was higher than that of the lower body. Following covering and uncovering the same area, the changes in skin temperature were greater in the upper body than in lower body, and covering the upper body produced a greater difference of skin temperature between body and lower body than covering the lower body. 3) In all environmental conditions, when the upper body was uncovered, the skin temperatures of the chest, upper arms and forearms dropped to a considerable degree, and when the lower body was uncovered, skin temperatures of the legs showed the same pattern. On the other hand, skin temperature of the thinghs showed only little change in all cases except forehead and back uncovered or covered in two clothing types.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제40권3호
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• pp.427-436
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• 2016

Protective clothing developed for rose flower farmers has been evaluated to improve the working conditions. The requirements of rose farmers were first identified to design protective clothing for farmers working with thorny plants. A fit test was conducted to assess the thermal comfort and protective function against thorn pricking to compare and evaluate the usability of developed experimental clothing with existing working clothes. Based on the survey results of rose farmers' requirements, protective clothing was designed in the form of an apron (which was the most preferred after gloves) with a pattern designed for the production of experimental clothing. For the developed protective clothing, the strap and buckle closure method was selected to open the back of the body as much as possible; in addition, sleeves were made in the attachable form of a half-sleeve to protect the arms from the thorns. The fit test of the developed protective clothing and existing working clothes revealed the temperature and humidity inside the developed protective clothing to be significantly different in the back compared to existing work clothes. In addition to thermal sensations, the subjective humidity sensations were statistically significant different in the developed protective clothing compared to existing work clothes. The subjective protective function for thorn pricking was also found to be satisfactory.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제39권3호
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• pp.353-368
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• 2015

Walter Van Beirendonck expresses a fairy tale world of perverted sexual desire of sadism and masochism, violence, and aggressiveness that breaks from a transient one-time concept as is an essential element of fashion. This study classifies the aesthetic characteristic shown on the design of Walter Van Beirendonck and analyzes the intent of his symbolism and meaning. The attempt has a meaning in exploring a new directionality of fashion by conveying a critical message to this end, contemporary fashion breaks down boundaries with artistic genre and connects a problematic consciousness that exists in life with fashion. The results of study on the aesthetic characteristics of Walter Van Beirendonck are as follows. First, Beirendonck emphasized an interpersonal image about body by giving a question through the deconstruction of image on a perfect body into race, age, and body based on body modification. Second, fetishism appeared as a consciousness that human identity and character can be changed by connecting a fetish element of sexual identity, and sadism and masochism with fashion's imagination. Third, infantilism as an amusement expression of the form metaphorically satirized life of modern people. Fourth, makeup shown on performance or festival of an African tribe was used in the way of mixture or reuse for ethnography to obtain inspiration from ethnography. Fifth, pop art combined a popular culture code as amusement through mass production and mass media. Aesthetics of Beirendonck do not have norm and are bold in using form, color, pattern, print, and styling because Beirendonck reinterpreted critical attitudes about essential problems that human life entails into a motif of his symbolic meaning in amusement. In regards to his design aesthetics, Beirendonck expanded fashion to the scope of Gesamtkunstwerk in a consistent and continued theme combined with philosophical creativity and differentiated from other fashion designers.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권7호
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• pp.1149-1161
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• 2010

This study identifies the dimensions of cosmetics consumption values and the differences in cosmetics brand selection through a cosmetics consumption value group and by product type. The subjects of the study were females over age 20 living in Seoul and Gyeonggi Province between January and February 2008; 427 questionnaires were used for analysis. For data analysis the SPSS 17.0 statistical program was used, and principal component analysis, factor analysis using Varimax rotation, Cronbach's ${\alpha}$ reliability testing, cluster analysis, ANOVA test, and Duncan test were conducted. The results and conclusions of this study are as follows. The dimensions of cosmetics consumption values were found to be the pleasure value, the fashion value, the function value, the brand ostentation value, and the appearance ostentation value. Five types of groups by factor were identified: the group seeking function, the group seeking fashion and brand ostentation, the group seeking pleasure, the group seeking appearance and brand ostentation, and the indifferent group. Second, The group attaching importance to functionality was more likely to select high-priced brands while the group attaching importance to brand awareness were more likely to seek foreign brands, irrespective of product type. As far as base and color cosmetics are concerned, the group attaching importance to pleasure was more likely to select low, medium, and high priced foreign brands, as well as low and medium priced domestic brands. As for body products, the group attaching importance to fashion and brand awareness tended to select low, medium, and high priced domestic brands, as well as high priced foreign brands. By simultaneously purchasing high, medium, and low priced brands, these groups display an ambivalent consumption pattern. This study identified the differing dimensions around cosmetics consumption values and cosmetic brand selection. The research findings helps cosmetic companies set product prices and contributes to cosmetic marketing strategies.

• 복식
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• 제46권
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• pp.159-170
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• 1999

This study was for reasonable gathering by a fabric and a skirt length. So the purpose of this study was to show the basic data to forecast the gathering effect of gathered skirt which was more aesthetical and suitable for a use in time of making pattern. To find the reasonable gathering amount by a length of gathered skirt and a fabric the methods of this study were divided on three types-five kinds of the gathering amounts three kinds of fabrics and three kinds of skirt ength-so forty five kinds of the samples were made. As the visual evaluation of the gathered skirt were practiced bgy these factors. The following are the results of this research. 1. For this research of fabrics the gathering amounts which were shown visually the most aesthetical silhouette in the same material and skirt length were decided on 1.5 times or 2.0 times. On the other side 0.5 times and 2.5 times of gathering amount were got a low estimation visually 2. Except in case the skirt length was 40cm and gathering amount were 1.0 times and 1.5 times in the same gathering amount and length of skirt it was estimated that wool fabric was most aesthetical silhouette fabric. On the other hand it was got low estimation which the cotton was not good for draping effect because it was got the lowest estimation level in all cases. 3. Considered as a whole in the same gathering amount and fabric the fabric widths for gathering which were shown the most aesthetical silhouette were estimated the length of 60cm in cotton fabric 80cm in polyester fabric and 40cm in wool fabric. Therefore as a fabric was weighty a length of a skirt was shorten so, it was estimated visually more beautiful.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제14권4호
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• pp.274-280
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• 1990

This paper is intended to grasp the characteristics of many bodices patterns which have been shown so far. The way is by selecting four characteristic kinds of patterns, making blouses offer the patterns and measuring ease. In measuring the degree of ease, $Scheff\`{e}'s$ paired comparison is made use of. In analysis, variation ratio has come out of analysis of variance, and significance is tested by producing estimated values between patterns. The Result is summed up as follows. 1. After wearing blouses made ofter different basic patterns and measuring ease, the analysis of variance is made about the sensory value of ease. The result is as follows. 1) In the ease of different patterns, all the areas are significant at the level of $1\%$ , regard- less of movements. 2) Under the influence of movements, the back area of arm hole is significant at the level of $5\%$ in narrow movements, and the front and the back area of arm hole are each significant at the level of $1\%$ in wide movements. 3) In the interaction of patterns and movements, bust and the under area of arm hole are each significant at the level of $1\%$ in narrow movements, and bust is significant at the level of $1\%$ in wide movements. 2. When comparing estimated values between patterns, the value of c is the largest and in the order of b,4, a. And in the other movements, the order changes into c,d, b and a. Thus the ease of blouses is different according to patterns. The reason for this is that the amount of ease of bust, the amount and location of darts, and sleeve cap height have complicate influences on the ease of blouses. Both sleeve cap height and the depth of arm hole have influences on the ease of sleeve. Consequently, in making clothes, it would be better to select and use proper patterns which go with the purposes and desings of clothes rather than to apply one pattern to various clothes.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권5호
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• pp.873-887
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• 2010

Yuan Shi Kai, the first President of the Republic of China, established a ceremonial uniform system based on ancient styles in 1914 just before the national polity was changed to the Empire of China in 1915. This system is Jisiguanfuzhi (a system on costumes for memorial services), and figures included in the system are Jisiguanfutu (figures showing costumes for memorial services). This study is the first to examine Jisiguanfuzhi and Jisiguanfutu and to approach the background idea of the establishment of the system with a focus on the meaning of 'unity.' Jisiguanfuzhi regulates the ceremonial uniform system of all classes from the President along with the 1st-class to the 5th-class people. The uniform consists of a crown, robe, belt, the mid-section cloth, and boots. In addition, the uniforms of ritual musicians and dancers are included. The basic principles in establishing the system were the restoration of ancient systems, the adoption of convenience, the acceptance of current practices, and the implication of symbolism. Jisiguanfuzhi clarifies that the pattern of the ceremonial uniforms was modeled on Juebianfu, for religious services. The reason for choosing Juebianfu for religious services was to achieve 'unity' and Juebianfu was associated with 'unity' because it was common to all, from the emperor to the gentlemen class, in ancient times. Yuan Shi Kai tried to show flexibility to the gentlemen class who represented the intellectuals at that time by adopting Juebianfu for religious services, fearing that the gentlemen class might oppose the attempt to restore the imperial system. Therefore, although Jisiguanfuzhi adopted mostly Mianfu and royal sacrificial robes, it also emphasized 'unity' by professing that the uniforms were based on Juebianfu for religious services.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제37권3호
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• pp.270-279
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• 2013

This study presents a T-shirt design process that utilizes modernized traditional patterns; in addition, it also includes various modernization techniques for Korean traditional patterns. T-shirts are a representative casual wear item worn in everyday life, especially among young people. The association of traditional elements and public goods such as T-shirts effects the diffusion of the Korean image into global society. Through the whole design process, target groups and design concepts were determined first: collegiate students as well as clean, natural, refined, simple and sporty image, respectively. Subsequently, Dokkaebi, lotus, Dangcho, dragon and Taegeuk patterns were selected as traditional pattern sources. Along with the technique of the division, transformation, and configuration of original patterns, the combining method of geometrical figures, stripe patterns, and check patterns with traditional patterns was helped create modernized traditional motives. Finally, T-shirt designs with a Korean image were developed with the harmonized deployment of modernized motives and color planning. The survey showed that designs had a clean, natural, refined, simple and sporty image that was preferred by collegiate students. This study is relevant in three aspects. First, the design process of modernization was very creative to combine traditional patterns and basic figures. Second, this study expanded the scope of traditional image design to casual wear to promote the Korean image to young people all over the world. Third, the whole design process, from planning to final product development, presented in this study is applicable to other design processes.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제21권5호
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• pp.91-108
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• 2017

Interests in 3D virtual clothing technology and its application in online shopping malls are increasing with the advent of the Fourth Industrial Revolution. Most studies on 3D virtual clothing, however, are focused on observing drapes or ease of virtual clothing depending on fabric properties of representative clothing items. Therefore, the purpose of this study is: first, to determine if current input of typical material characteristics in 3D CLO are sufficient to formulate virtual skirts with different front and back silhouettes; second, to determine if subjective appearance evaluation matched physical shape characteristics of those skirts. In this study, appearances of typical cotton, wool, silk, rayon, and polyester skirts with different front and back pattern were compared between actual and virtual clothing depending on fabric materials. Subjective appearance evaluation was conducted by 7 experts regarding similarity between actual and virtual clothing with a 5-point scale. For objective evaluation of the both types of skirt shape, degree of roundness at the cross section, displacement of side seam, position of back waistline, and the number of folds at the skirt back were observed. In the case of cotton and wool, not the subjective appearance evaluation as well as shape characteristics of virtual skirts were well matched to the actual shape of skirts with a few material inputs. However, current material inputs for silk, rayon and polyester were insufficient to cover material differences in formation of virtual skirts with different front and back silhouettes.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.10-20
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• 2010

In this research, by yearly subdividing and analyzing the characteristic of the embroidery design according to the garment item with a season the high value added is raised for a differencing and high performance conversion of the high fashion design and there is an object. In 2004, when the total 474 chapter was selected in S/S season till F/W season in 2008 and the embroidery design characteristic according to the kind of an item the analyzing method and statistical method was used. As to the first, and the embroidery design in which it follows of the garment item showed the stylized, and the plant motive of the geometric pattern by an edge and composite arrangement in an one-piece and blouse with the satin stitch and cut work technique. A monotone and the bright tone were used. The second, and the season different difference, the out line stitch, an applique, and the cut work technique S/S season were a feature. A plant, and the animal motive were expressed as the front arrangement and the monotone of the achromatic color appeared. As to F/W season, the long short stitch and satin stitch techniques were with the characteristic profit. The abstract motive showed up as the edge alignment and composite arrangement. And the plain tone and the monotone of the chromatics combination color are used. In the third, and the chronological difference, an applique the embroidery technique showed up in the out line stitch, and 2007 years in 2004 years and 2006 years. And the sentence motive of the animal, and the abstract motive the embroidery motive are embossed in 2005 years and 2006 years in 2008 years.