• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.54 no.8
• /
• pp.113-128
• /
• 2004

This study examined textiles used for ancient costumes of the $16{\cdot}17th$ century in Joseon period, focusing on fabric types and patterns of the costumes from tombs. The purpose of this study was focused on investigating the relationship between fabrics and social backgrounds, especially change in using fabrics through the war from Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592. Since the war must have had an effect on the life of people's. The result of the study is that silk occupies $69{\%}$ of all textiles, and cotton, linen follow The weaving method of silk was primarily Plain and satin weaves. However the use of twill, gauze, and double weave, that had led weaving methods of silk during the Koryo Period, were considerably decreased in Joseon Period. Types excavated fabrics in the $16{\cdot}17th$ century Joseon period can be said various. Of this, silk was the most remarkable one till Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592, when the ratio of patterned silk dramatically decreased. Contrarily, the ratio of cotton and plain fabric increased rapidly in Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592. It is supposed that the result is largely due to unusual condition of the war time. After the war, it is estimated that use of pattened fabric as well as silk was decreased. Patterns of textile fabrics in $16{\cdot}17th$ century were various. In result of surveying a trend of increment and decrement, it is known that the ratio of patterned textile fabrics decreased dramatically in Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592 and Manchu war of 1636. Tendency of textile use by social Position is more notable. It is appeared that a lot of silk fabrics were used in High hierarchy. The excavated remain and ratio of silk were the highest in Kyonggi Province including Seoul.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.36 no.3
• /
• pp.311-323
• /
• 2012

This study establishes the initial data to develop a well-fitted underwear pattern by categorizing and analyzing torso types based on body measurements of women in their 50s and 60s. The results are as follows: First, the statistical assessment on the body measurements showed meaningful differences among age groups in twenty seven items (except for bust breadth, hip width armscye depth, hip depth, neck base circumference, armscye circumference, chest circumference, hip circumference, bishoulder length, shoulder length, front interscye, back interscye, weight and inclined angle of left shoulder). Women in their early 50s and late 60s (respectively) showed the highest values in height and depth. Second, there are five body factors according to the results of the factor analysis: Factor 1 (circumference, width, and depth of upper body measurements) - the degree of body depth and obesity, Factor 2 (height and vertical length) - The vertical torso length, Factor 3 - the size of shoulder, Factor 4 - the vertical upper body length, and Factor 5 - the size of shoulder angle. Third, the results of the cluster analysis showed that there are four distinctive body types. The largest number of the study subjects was related to Type 3 (30.69%), followed by Type 2 (26.78%), Type 1 (25.84%), and Type 4 (16.69%), respectively. For distribution of age groups by body type, Type 3 was the most common among the 60s group while Type 2 appeared most frequently among the 50s.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.17 no.2
• /
• pp.233-245
• /
• 1993

This study was undertaken to develop the artificially soiled cloth using clay and dyed oleic acid as model soil and to evaluating the detergency by determination of K/S value and chemical analysis. The results obtained were as follows : 1. Correlation were determined between the K/S value and chemical analysis data for the detergency of developed model soil at various conditions and it was found that model soil could be extensively used for the washing examination. 2. The surface reflectance of soiled cloth with clay-oleic acid mixture was measured two wave length band that was converted K/S values and the amount of two components was individually calculated. Positive correlation were found between detergency that obtained from chemical anlysis and K/S values. Therefore, proposed method of soiled cloth with clay-oleic acid mixed soiles could be extensively used for detergency experiment. 3. The attached state of soil of on the artificially soiled cloth which was observed under a scanning electronic microscope showed a different pattern by the sort of soil. And the difference of attached state of soil had great influence upon the detergency. 4. The composition of clay was changed and formated of noncrystalinity was vanished by calcined at $800^{\circ}C$. Because of a noncrystalline of clay, artificially soiled cloth could be prepared more uniformly but the detergency was decreased.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.16 no.6
• /
• pp.1001-1007
• /
• 2014

We surveyed the wearing characteristics of hip protectors. The problems of existing hip protectors were identified and the directions for improvement were presented. The evaluation of wearing characteristics was conducted on the 100 elderly women (60 to 85 years) with 5 types of hip protector. The questionnaire was composed of history and characteristics on falling, hip protector acceptance, preference, use characteristics and improvement requirements. The result of wearing characteristic evaluation indicated that 52% of the subject experienced falling in winter. Incidents resulting from falling occurred: outdoors (74.5%), bathroom (10.9%), and kitchen (5.5%). Body parts to be protected were in several areas: 35.6% for lumbar, 26.9% for hip joint, and 15% for hip bone. Participants prefer a belt B type design at a rate of 56.9% because it provided a sense of stability by clinging to the body and upholding the waist. Belt B type was the most appropriate in terms of fit, allowance, mobility, and design except pad thickness. To reduce the risk of hip fracture, hip protector needs to be designed in consideration of user's type of fall and body shape. The pattern and size of a hip protector has to be improved in regards to the amount of discomfort. An objective evaluation is needed for the ergonomic design of a hip protector based on and analysis of 3D body image of the elderly and the shock-absorbing quality of pad.

• Human Ecology Research
• /
• v.52 no.1
• /
• pp.21-31
• /
• 2014

The purpose of this study was to analyze the types and meanings of calligraphy presented in modern fashion design. Calligraphy refers to beautiful handwriting or fine penmanship in the West, and handwriting with brushstrokes in the East. The expression patterns being used at present can be divided into three categories. Legible calligraphy is focused on readability more than embellishment. Decorative calligraphy places its importance on decoration at the expense of practicality. The third type, harmonious calligraphy, pursues decorativeness and legibility at the same time. Each of these types of calligraphy is expressed in modern fashion with its own purpose: calligraphy for conveying emotional messages, calligraphy as a special brand image, and calligraphy as an expression of formativeness. The first, calligraphy for conveying emotional messages, is used with characters that are familiar to the public. Calligraphy of this type delivers messages confined emotionally to the conscious world, harmonizing calligraphy with words, or expressing readability filled with purity and delight. Second, calligraphy as a special brand image refers to transmitting a distinctive brand image from other companies through employment of a design motive or pattern by expressing the brand logos or names of designers. Third, calligraphy as a expression of formativeness has the function of shaping expressions as motives or patterns, avoiding meanings of words or phrases. It can be represented by the abbreviation or modification of words, or arranging words in different shapes, harmonizing the words with the clothing construction and atmosphere of the other images.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.22 no.3
• /
• pp.349-356
• /
• 2020

This study provides information on how to improve the wearing sensation and the fit of slim-fit jeans through an analysis of actual wearing conditions and dissatisfaction. The study is based on a questionnaire survey. A survey was conducted on 296 women in their 20s living in Korea to analyze wearing dissatisfaction with slim-fit jeans. The study used descriptive statistics for analysis using SPSS Statistics Ver.23. Surveys on the actual situation of wearing jeans and level of dissatisfaction indicated that most women in their 20s mainly wore slim-fit jeans and were aware of the size of their jeans. Most tended to double-check the size of the jeans, indicating that the inaccurate sizing system of slim-fit jeans caused confusion for consumers. In addition, the results of the survey on the most considered parts of the body when consumers buy jeans are waist, thigh and leg length. They insisted that their waists were thin and their thighs were thicker than their waists; so their pants would not fit and they were obese. There is a problem between waist size and thigh size; therefore, it is necessary to develop new patterns for slim-fit jeans with improved fit around the waist area that can improve the negative results of surveys on the level of dissatisfaction, indicating discomfort in the waist, belly, and thigh areas while wearing slim-fit jeans.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.20 no.5
• /
• pp.556-568
• /
• 2018

In this study, we surveyed the current status and sizing system of the custom dress shirts sold through online shopping, compared with the sizing system of the ready-made dress shirts. We tried to collect the information needed to make the well fitted dress shirts for middle-aged men from this study. The 17 online custom dress shirt brands were selected and the sales type, sales price, design options and size options of each brand were analyzed. The sizing systems of online custom dress shirt brands were compared with the sizing system of the 10 ready made dress shirt brands. The result showed that online custom dress shirts brands offered a variety of design options and size options to meet the consumers' individuality, taste and demand for good fit. In the ready-made brands, all 10 brands were using the same size notation system. In the same size designation, the difference in product size among the ready-made brands showed a tendency to be smaller than the online custom brands. The online custom brands had the different size notation system among brands. The size notation, the number of size designation and the size interval were different for each brand. Also, in the online custom brands, the product size among brands differed from each other in the same size designation. Therefore, the standardized size information and sizing system for middle-aged men that could be used as criteria when making the product size and pattern design in online custom brands were needed.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.11 no.2
• /
• pp.75-84
• /
• 2009

The following research analyzed the sewing teaching of the tailored jacket shown in fashion textbooks, which are currently used in universities and educational organizations in the fashion industry. To analyze the sewing teaching of tailored jackets, we analyzed 35 textbooks in the market. Among them we used 14 textbooks which dealt with the patter formation method of tailored jackets, and cutting and sewing methods. First, the stitching direction and the location of attachment varied. The type of sticking tape and its position also differed, emphasizing the need to make an institutionalized education material which is based on the characteristic of the fabric and its silhouette. Second, controlling the ease length of the right side sewing princess line, or information about the shoulder line and sleeve line of the notch as not specifically shown in the textbooks. Furthermore, not many textbooks showed how to pull the lower part of the texture out of sight, nor did they explain why this needed to be done. Third, the lining is usually slightly larger than the outer texture of the clothing, as the lining is usually tugged in the sewing process, and this method makes the clothes more comfortable. The method of sewing the princessline $0.2{\sim}0.3cm$ outside the outer pattern was the most recommended. The center-back side was usually 2cm in activity measurements, but it turned out that a textbook which required ease treatment on the shoulder line did not do so on the lining material. The textbooks used in this research dealt only with how to manufacture a tailored jacket without full explanation about textures which could influence the manufacturing. The production method and process differed between different textbooks, showing the need to make a institutionalized education material. In a quickly-changing era where there is rapid change in the dressmaking procedure, we need to help students understand the process more easily through a formalized education process.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
• /
• v.19 no.1
• /
• pp.119-126
• /
• 2010

We need to develop a target market for elderly women by increasing the ratio of functional apparel. The purpose of this study was to provide basic data for developing a Leisure Sports Jumper and improving the quality of life of clothing for female elderly consumers. This study reviewed the current situation on the production of the functional Leisure Sports Jumper for the elderly women in literature. For the experimental study, we selected Leisure Sports Jumpers from five apparel brands, and evaluated a sensory test on 20 subjects representing the average body shape of the elderly women aged from 65 to 75. After the first sensory test, we manipulated the patterns for samples of the Leisure Sports Jumper. In the second sensory test, visual and cognitive appropriateness of the Leisure sports jumpers were assessed by the elderly women. The results of the study were as follows: the Leisure Sports Jumper of brand 'C' showed the highest appropriateness in terms of neck, armholes, and sleeves among the 5 brands. The Leisure Sports Jumper of brands 'B' and 'D' showed the lowest appropriateness in the width of the armpits among the 5 brands. Except for the length of the Leisure Sports Jumper, the margin, location of the pocket, and armholes had the lowest score in the first test showing over 3.5 points.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.10 no.5
• /
• pp.159-179
• /
• 2006

This research checked about the necessity for the development of men's dress forms in the first investigation for the educational circle and the men's wear industry. Somatotype characteristics were analyzed in the second investigation of body measurement with the subjects of 200 male adults in their twenties residing in Busan. The following are the results of the present research to develop male dress forms for patternmaking: 1. In the group analysis for the characterization of front body types, three somatotypes were found and named H, Semi X, and Y. In the cluster analysis of side body types, four types were identified: D, I, d, and q. In the combination of front and lateral body types, four kinds were chosen: semi X-I, semi X-q, semi Y-I, and Y-q. 2. Through the comparison of plane figures by the plaster method as well as horizontal and vertical cross sections by the sliding gauge method, semi X-I was finally chosen as the standard somatotype for male dress form development. 3. Compared with the sliding gauge method of the present dress forms, the research dress form reflected better the shapes of the parts of the back and hips and the position of the waist, especially for males in their 20's. In addition, the dress form in the current research had superior points in all the items of clothing evaluation. Based on the above results, the sizes and models of the men's dress forms for patternmaking were developed.