• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.12 no.2 s.27
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• pp.145-158
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• 1988

The purpose of this study was develop a skirt pattern drafting method for pregnant women on the basis of their physical characteristics. The study procedures and results were as follows; 1. One hundred and one women who were 7,8 or 9 months pregnant were measured on 29 items. The result was computed to obtain descriptive statistics and correlation coefficients between each items. 2. Two new skirt patterns were developed based on the data analysis. 3. The sensory evaluation was applied to evaluate the new patterns for pregnant women by comparing them with the Japanese MOONHWA method skirt pattern for pregnant women. Sensory evaluation for appearance: According to the result of Mann-Whitney test among the three skills the skirt A was most satisfactory, and the next was the skirt B followed by Japanese MOONHWA method Skirt. Sensory evaluation for comfort; The result of Mann-Whitney test showed that the skirt B was comfortable, and the next was the shirt A followed by Japanese MOONHWA method skirt.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.8
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• pp.991-1005
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• 2011

This study researches the historical production, process, and design method for 3 pairs of corsets in $18^{th}$ century France. In the analytical stage of historical materials, it grasped the kind, form, origin, and change in style through a lexical definition of relevant terms. Through a precedent study on Garsault's 'L'art du tailleur', preservation costume, and historical reconstruction of pattern in preservation costume, it confirmed corps size, silhouette, pattern form, and material for historical production. The sewing method and the producing sequence were analyzed. In the production stage, 3 selective models in corps plein baleine, corps demi-baleine, and corset were historically produced. With neckline of forming broad Letter U, the bust part is covered roundly. The bodice was composed of 10 panels based on the corps form in the mid-$18^{th}$ century of following a curve of a human body. A shoulder strap was allowed to make the arm movement comfortable by producing and attaching it separately. The cutting line except the center in the front and the back of vertical line was distributed according to the natural flow of a form and movement of the human body. The curve-based pattern line was confirmed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.12 no.2 s.27
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• pp.237-248
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• 1988

To access the appropriate height of sleeve cap which is required for the basic sleeve pattern according to arm movements, plaster gypsum experiment was performed. Arm movements were 5types ($0^{\circ},\;45^{\circ},\;90^{\circ},\;135^{\circ},\;180^{\circ}$) to the vertical directions in the front. The appropriateness of the pattern was analyzed by measuring clothing pressure. The results obtained were as follows: 1. Increasing the movement angle, sleeve width increased but height of sleeve cap and armhole girth decreased. 2. Increasing the movement angle, the acromion moved to the front part of bodice. 3. On the basis of the result of the height of sleeve cap, the $\frac{AH}{4} +2.5cm$ sleeve basic 4 pattern is suitable for the direction $M_1(0^{\circ}),\;M_2(45^{\circ})$, and the $\frac{AH}{5}$sleeve basic pattern is suitable for the direction $M_3(90^{\circ}),\;M_4(135^{\circ})$, and $M_5(180^{\circ})$. 4. As the movement angle and height of sleevecap increased, the part which receive high pressure increased and the difference between the hightest and the lowest clothing pressure increased. 5. By the variation of movement angle and height of sleevecap, clothing pressure of upperarm was affected more than that of shoulder blade. 6. The clothing pressure of upperarm and shoulder blades were more affected by the height of sleeve cap than the ease of breast area. 7. Considering the clothing pressure of various arm movement, the most appropriate height of sleeve cap for $M_1(0^{\circ}),\;M_2(45^{\circ})$ positions was to use the $\frac{AH}{4}$+2.5cm, and for $M_3(90^{\circ}),\;M_4(135^{\circ})$, and $M_5(180^{\circ})$, was $\frac{AH}{5}$.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.4
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• pp.687-697
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• 2017

To figure out an appropriate pressure level for a body warming base layer, human responses were observed when the pattern reduction of base layers varied. Under the condition of $2^{\circ}C$, 60% RH, 0.1m/s, ten male subjects participated in the experiment with four sizes of experimental vests where heating pads were attached. The subjective evaluations of the heating vests with different sizes were reported using 7 or 9 point scales. We simultaneously observed chest, abdomen and scapula skin temperatures and microclimate humidity. It was found that the tight pattern as in the case of A or B provided a warmer subjective sensation and skin temperature than C or D; however, there were no differences in skin temperature at the chest. Eventually, the chest temperature decreased after about 30 mins of heating; however, temperature of abdomen increased and indicated that heating with two commercial pads used was inadequate for whole body warming. The pressure sensation of 'tight' was improved after warming the abdomen in a cold environment. Overall, the gaps beyond the original circumference of the abdomen, as in C or D, were not desirable for the local heating of abdomen under the conditions of this experiment where walking was included in the protocol. The experiment garment B with nude waist circumference was the best, and D with the largest ease, was the worst for a comfortable warming vest.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.15-20
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• 2004

These days are referred to as 'the times of textile fashion,' owing to the emphasis on textile design in the fashion industry. Accordingly, apparel companies have increased their interests in developing new types of textiles to overcome the limits of style and silhouette. Now the ultra-fashion of textile, a new way of process and design development, is given much more attention. A Moire interference pattern has a longer wavy circle of interference, an effect of intensity interference, than one made by piling more than one reflecting plate or transmitting plate. Till now, Moire interference patterns have been used to confirm scientific theory and to measure the structure of a body or a subject in areas such as physics and medical science. Work has also been done on the Moire interference effects on TV screens said to cause dizziness and eye strain. This study focuses on the new types of textiles by creating the appearance of the Moire phenomena. Contrary to the present usual stationary patterns of textiles, it is a varying pattern according to the different gratings, different angles, piling gratings, and the movements of the human bodies. In the preceding study, we observed Moire fringes formed by overlapping two different or same kinds of gratings such as parallel line gratings, square gratings, conic gratings and semicircular gratings and tried to find a promising possibility of new textiles through the method of clothes design simulation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.4 s.152
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• pp.582-594
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• 2006

The purpose of this study were to develop snow-board lower wear with improved functionality. The study consisted of figure out appropriate ease amount of snow-board lower wear and make products by applying it to pattern design. The results of this study were as follows: On the basis of the analysis of snow-board lower wear on market, 2 pieces of experimental snowboard lower wear were designed, produced, and evaluated the patterns of with different ease, and snowboard lower B for experiment was proved to be better. Snowboard lower wear was produced and evaluated for experiment 2 by giving additional ease to specific parts. Therefore experiment 2 was presented pattern, ease, and size of snowboard lower wear with improved functionality. Sizes and ease of snow-board lower wear for presentation. waist circumference - 96.0cm(l6.4cm, 17.1%); hip circumference - 127.0cm(31.3cm, 24.4%); pants length - 112.0cm(9.6cm, 8.6%); crotch length - 90.0cm(26.8cm, 36.4%); thigh circumference - 78.0cm(23.4cm, 30.0%); knee circumference - 62.0cm(24.7cm, 39.8%); turnup circumference - 62.0cm(36.0cm, 58.1%). Above mentioned sizes and ease of lower wear are medium size(M) for male.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.2
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• pp.136-145
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• 2011

This study identifies methods to design patterns for jeans that are suitable for women in their twenties. Five patterns suggested by previous researchers were used to draw the same size of jeans (waist 67 and hip 91). The author compared and analyzed the measurements and shapes of the patterns, ranging from waist to crotch. Samples were produced based on these patterns and then tests were conducted to observe the dynamic functions and exteriors of the samples. The dynamic functions observed in this study include walking, ascending stairs, descending stairs and sitting on chairs. The results of the current study are as follow. The best evaluated pattern in terms of exteriors is the one where the hips and thighs are tightest compared to other patterns and where the back part is wider than the front part. This pattern also received high evaluations in dynamic functions due to comfort when walking. Regarding ascending or descending stairs, the tests found that all its parts (except the front crotch) are more comfortable than those of any other patterns. All these results show that a comfortable fit and easy movement is possible when the crotch width of the back is broader than the hip width so that the hips are comfortably supported.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.5
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• pp.573-582
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• 2012

This work is to develop a T-shirt by adopting a unique cloud pattern (a good auspicious sign as design material) from traditional native Korean patterns for application to various cultural products and textile design cloth patterns; subsequently, a T-shirt design was processed based on this. As a research method, computer design programs Adobe Illustrator CS3 and Adobe Photoshop CS3 were used along with a literature examination as part of motive for design development and pattern realization. Three basic motives were selected as a new formative image in this work, utilizing graphical elements such as abridgement and simplicity of pattern, where flower-shaped cloud pattern, uprising cloud pattern, and 卍-shaped or swastika-shaped pattern of traditional cloud patterns were selected. Each motive diverged into two motives via the shape transformation and the application of different colors. The newly developed basic motive was further processed into a combination of one-time repeat pattern, stripe pattern, and application pattern with mixed cloud motives (that were previously developed), which altogether turned out to be 36 pieces of textile design. In addition, with newly developed motive designs and textile designs, a total of 12 shirt designs for 4 pieces were developed for these three each. The shirt design was developed into a shirt blouse, sleeveless T-shirt, half-sleeve T-shirt, and sports T-shirt among others in order to fit various uses and purposes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.5 s.164
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• pp.692-704
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• 2007

Recently, Basic patterns with excellent body fitness and automation availability are required to be developed in order to automate the patterns of women's clothes. In this study, this reference points, reference lines and segments were fixed onto 3D scan data for the lower body the women in their twenties, they were directly spread out to be 2D flat pattern to facilitate development into the design of slacks adhered closely to the human body such as special and highly-functional clothes, and then slacks 2D pattern was developed for the purpose of seeking scientific approach to the development into basic form slacks and 3d emotional pattern. For conversion of 3D pattern into 2D flat pattern, reference points and segments were created by using Rapid Form of 3D shape analysis software, and triangle mesh of the body surface of the created shape was developed with Auto CAD 2005. The correspondence between slacks and human body was examined by the fixation of major reference lines. Specially, the wearing characteristics of slacks were considered by the fixation of side lines in consideration of posture. As a result of using the way of development to constantly maintain the length while 3D triangle mesh is converted into 2D flat mesh, the shape was shown to be excellently reproduced, and the area of flat pattern was increased compared to the shape of parting plane. Also, the sunk-in curve like the brief line of front crotch length needed a cutting line when it was closely adhered, when mesh was overlapped, and the pattern area was smaller compared to the actual shape.

• Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference
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• 2004.10a
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• pp.63-65
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• 2004