• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.11-18
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to investigate the trends of Hanbok pattern research published in journals and theses. We collected 70 articles related to the Hanbok pattern. The articles were divided into 7 chronicles based on publishing year, and analyzed by journal, publishing year, research theme, wearing subject and research pattern. Researches can be categorized into journals, university research paper, and master's theses. After 1981, studies on the pattern of Hanbok have been continuing. Most researches were focused on traditional Hanbok, especially about Jeogori. Research on modernized Hanbok started from Vchronicle(2001~2005), but it has not progressed anymore. According to the analysis on wearing subject, the number of research for female Hanbok was almost three times that of the male. Most researches were performed on adult Hanbok, and subjects were expanded to children, adolescents and middle-aged. The body shape of the wearer did not mentioned on many articles. Pattern researches started from excavated costume, but most researches were about commercial patterns. These researches on the pattern on Hanbok have shown an increasing tendency as the years passed, but researches on modernized Hanbok, including Hanbok pattern development for modern life style should be conducted more actively. In an aging society, as the number of middle-aged consumers increases, pattern research on middle-aged or older people and their various body shapes should be necessary.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2002.10a
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• pp.77-77
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• 2002

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.852-862
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• 2008

The purpose of this paper is to find how to do the width of skirt and the girth of the waist in the adequate pattern making for the obese women's skirt. Appearance test of the five experimental skirts was evaluated by the four experts in clothing construction. At the same time, 3D clothing air volume was observed for the five types of experimental skirt with different size specifications. The results from the appearance test were as follows; when the width of skirt pattern is set for(the shell girth/2), it was suggested w/4+1(front), w/4(back) for girth of the waist. On one hand, in case of (the shell girth of front)/2+(the shell girth of back)/2, it was suggested(the waist girth of front)/2 and(waist girth of back)/2 for obese women's skirt with the best appearance. As results, it was found that the width of skirt pattern for the obese women should be the greatest shell girth instead of hip girth. In the case of the hip girth, the amount of ease on hip was suggested 6cm. It was found that pattern with the wrinkle of ease was full of the gaps between body and skirt in 3D clothing air volume. In spreading out to 2D flat pattern from 3D scan data, when the width of skirt pattern was set for(the shell girth of front)/2+(the shell girth of back)/2, it was suggested(the waist girth of front/2)+(the waist girth of back/2) than the shell girth/2 in girth of the waist for the best appearance. And the conversion of 3D scan data into 2D flat pattern in curve shape of crosswise had to spread out of the plane in straight line. The obese women's clothing should be manufactured with systematical consideration of the diversity and scarcity of the obese women's body shape.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.860-876
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• 2013

The pattern cases for Korean traditional socks are named "beoseonbongip" which means a pouch to keep patterns for making "beoseon". "Beoseon" is Korean traditional socks. This study is to identify characteristics of the pattern cases and to develop cultural products based on the unique characteristics of the pattern cases. One hundred fifty one photos of "beosonbongip" were collected and quantitatively and qualitatively analyzed. Seventy percent of them were made between Joseon Dynasty and 1960s. As a result, most of the collected pattern cases are rectangular and square shapes, red color, and silk fabrics, and sizes of them are from 9cm to 15cm. A few pattern cases with different sizes and colors were also observed. Most pattern cases were made by fixing two among four triangle pieces which made by folding four tips of a rectangular or square cloth and then puting a not or a loop on the remaining triangle pieces in order to open and close the pattern cases. In a small number of the pattern cases, three of the four pieces were fixed and a button, a bead, a broach, or two nots or two loops were put on the other piece for opening and closing. Products such as apparels, bags, pouches, frames, and key holders were made using "beoseonbongip" form and construction method. This shows that "beoseonbongip" is a useful motive for creative product development.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.6
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• pp.925-933
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• 2009

This research was carried out by analyzing a form and composition in baseball cap targeting 97 marketing products, and we have typified it by frequency analysis. We have carried out comparing and wearing test between comparative pattern and the most preferred three products of sports brand, fashion brand A, and fashion brand B (flex fit). And also, in order to provide basic indices for developing new pattern, we have carried out analysis of variance. 1. As a result of analyzing a form in baseball cap, the most general pattern type for crown is central cutting with six pieces. In a cap, a basic type with no decoration was the most general. In the size adjustment and decoration, belt type and embroidery type (front or side embroidery of the crown) was the most common, respectively. 2. As a result of comparing and analyzing six-piece typed crown pattern, the comparative pattern was the same and symmetric in size and form of three patterns in front, side, and back. However, the patterns of marketing products of three brands were different in size and form of three patterns in front, side, and back. The patterns of sports brand were the largest in crown height and width, thus it was good at providing activity and motion. The patterns of fashion brand A were the shortest in the crown length and well-curved in front pattern, so it was well-matched with head shape. The patterns of fashion brand B were well-described back side of head since its convex and long patterns in the back head. 3. As a result of wearing test by five-point Likert scale among brand, pattern of fashion brand B outperformed the others since it was well-matched with head shape. In the cap, pattern of fashion brand A is the most preferred which was 7.5 cm of length and 18cm of width.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.266-275
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• 2009

Variations of individual hip shapes are a major obstacle in pattern making for fitness. The drafting method is used for pattern making in today's apparel industry. Whilst catering to a limited number of information such as waist and hip sizes, this method does not cater to variations in hip shape. This paper describes the analysis of hip shapes using 3D body model and tries to make sure the relationship between hip shape and pattern by calculating hip angle and dart amount. We achieved results in analyzing various hip shapes by extracting hip angle. Moreover, various hip shapes can be divided into three types(A, B and C) by the hip angle value($K_{sh}-K_{wsh}$). When we use computerized draping method to make a personalized pattern for a tigth skirt, we easily create complex dart lines automatically. Therefore we achieve the result of individual dart amount such as distance between dart lines and dart areas. C type of hip shape had short dart length, long distance between dart lines and a large amount of dart area. On the other hand, A type had long dart length, short distance between dart lines and small amount of dart area. B type had long length and long distance between dart lines and large amount of dart area. In traditional pattern making, distance between dart lines is usually proportional to amount of dart area because of similarity in dart line shape. In our pattern, there is no proportional relationship between dart line distance and dart area. This means that variations in hip shapes result in a wide variety of dart line curvature resulting in a wide range of dart area. By ensuring an accurate relationship between hip shape and pattern, it is possible to make patterns which result in clothing that not only fits well, but also exhibits other desirable properties.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.866-886
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• 1995

The purpose of this study is to analyze the pattern and the meaning of textiles, and decorative techniques of ikat weaving and dyeing in Indonesia. The textile design also analyzes by examining the method of ikat techniques such as warp ikat, weft ikat and double ikat, and by classifying the style of regions. The most common motifs are geometric designs of spirals, meanders, straight lines, triangles, and circles which are influenced by outside world. Although these motifs or symbols have been evident since prehistoric times, their design and meaning have been continually reinterpreted as changes in the ceremonies and rituals. While motifs such as reptiles, birds, and human figures, depicted in spiral, hooked and rhomb configurations, have been identified among the most resilient features of Indonesian textile design, new meanings have been added to these ancient forms, and designs have been transformed and reinterpreted to suit local conceptions. Since textiles are a visual expression of Indcufsian life, textiles place the individual symbolically within social milieu, identifying rank, family, locality and religious affiliations. Textiles represent a link between the human and the spiritual realm, and a vehicle for the display of sacred and secular potency Ikat textiles play to embody special transforming powers and sacred mediating qualities, providing protection and evoking life-enriching forces for individuals or social group.

• Bulletin of the Korean Chemical Society
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• v.35 no.8
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• pp.2431-2437
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• 2014

In this study, Ni, Ni-Cu and Ni/Cu catalysts were deposited onto C-fiber textiles via the electrophoretic deposition method, and the growth characteristics of carbon nanofibers on the deposited catalyst/C-fiber textiles were investigated. The catalyst deposition onto C-fiber textiles was accomplished by immersing the C-fiber textiles into Ni or Ni-Cu mixed solutions, producing the substrate by post-deposition of Ni onto C-fiber textiles with pre-deposited Cu, and passing it through a gas mixture of $N_2$, $H_2$ and $C_2H_4$ at $700^{\circ}C$ to synthesize carbon nanofibers. For analysis of the characteristics of the synthesized carbon nanofibers and the deposition pattern of catalysts, SEM, EDS, BET, XRD, Raman and XPS analysis were conducted. It was found that the amount of catalyst deposited and the ratio of Ni deposition in the Ni-Cu mixed solution increased with an increasing voltage for electrophoretic deposition. In the case of post-deposition of Ni catalyst onto substrates with pre-deposited Cu, both bimetallic catalyst and carbon nanofibers with a high level of crystallizability were produced. Carbon nanofibers yielded with the catalyst prepared in Ni and Ni-Cu mixed solutions showed a Y-shaped morphology.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.418-424
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to propose a standard of converting 3D shape of men in twenties to 2D patterns. This can be a basis for scientific and automatic pattern making for high quality custom clothes. Firstly, representative 3D body shape of men was modeled. Then the 3D model was divided into 3 shells, front, side and back. Among them, the front shell was divided into 4 blocks by bust line and princess line. Secondly, curves are generated on each block according to matrix combination by grid method. Then triangles were developed into 2D pieces by reflecting the 3D curve length. The grid was arranged to maintain outer curve length. Next, the area of developed pieces and block were calculated and difference ratio between the block area and the developed pieces' area is calculated. Also, area difference ratio by the number of triangles is calculated. The difference ratio was represented as graphs and optimal section is selected by the shape of graphs. The optimal matrix was set considering connection with other blocks. Curves of torso upper front shell were regenerated by the optimal matrix and developed into pieces. We validated it's suitability by comparing difference ratio between the block area and the developed pieces' area of optimal section. The results showed that there was no significant difference between block area and the pieces' area developed by optimal matrix. The optimal matrix for 2D developing could be characterized as two types according to block's shape characteristics, one is affected by triangle number, the other is affected by number of raws more than columns. Through this study, both the 2D pattern developing from 3D body shape and 3D modeling from 2D pattern is possible, so it's standardization also possible.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.145-160
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• 2005

On the subjects of the female adults in their 20s who love to wear jeans, the wearing reality of basic jean pants and engineered jean pants was examined while pattern comparison and the evaluation of appearance and functions were made to reach the following conclusions: 1. Wearing reality of engineered jean pants Among the examined subjects, 74.8% were found out to favor engineered jean pants. Those who have engineered jean pants turned out to pursue well-known brands more than practicality. 2. Pattern comparison analysis of basic jean pants and engineered jean pants Though similar sizes existed in pants tips and belt width, engineered jean pants showed bigger values in waist circumference, crotch circumference, hip circumference, knee circumference, thigh circumference and so on. There were no big differences in the front part except for the items like crotch circumference and crotch length, but engineered jean pants had bigger sizes in the rear part. Engineered jeans in the rear contained the outward curved silhouette of the legs, curved tips, and a dart design instead of a back yoke. 3. Evaluation of appearance and functions In the scores of appearance, basic jean pants were higher at 3.65 in the order of front > side > back. On the contrary, engineered jean pants were excellent in the order of side > back > front. In the items of functions, engineered jean pants were higher at 4.23 in the order of hips > thighs> waist > abdomen > knee > crotch. On the other hand, basic jean pants showed the order of knee > crotch & thighs > abdomen > hips > waist. In every movement, engineered jean pants revealed higher functionality. In particular, the bigger physical movement led to the greater functional differences between the two kinds of jean pants.