• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.99-112
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to find out various types of stripes pattern and to review its' design expression by analysing stripe pattern and visual effect appeared in western women's fashion after 20th centuries. As regards the visual effect of stripe pattern, on the basis of the stripe pattern's direction laid out, we made an investigation of it by classfying it into verticality, horizontality, slant line and mixture of them according to its' gap and thickness. Here are the 4 features of the stripe pattern appeared in modern fashions. The first, graphic variation based on diverse variation and reconstruction and combination between other motives is being onthe rise as a new expression. The second, colorful stripes of Missoni can be exanpled as the trend of diversification of color. The third, as regards the trend of mismatch in pattern, coordination through mismatch can produce experimental and post-modern image. The fourth, as for the expression of draping effect, we find that stripe pattern can maximaze visual effect through draping by inducing visual stimulus, as well as can express human body in a beautiful manner.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.7
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• pp.1097-1106
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is for development textile design and making fabric actually for dementia patients hospital clothing using symbol which has social care meaning. For achievement the aim, process and research methods were as follows. First the symbol design was developed. Second the symbol was applied as textile design for dementia patients hospital clothing. Symbol design was under processed with a letter 'Alzheimer' and meanings as like 'love', 'happiness' 'care' 'hope' and 12 design samples were developed by CAD and photoshop. Total 15 evaluation members chose 2 design samples. The 2 design sample were practically arrangement 7 textile design pattern with ground different colors. And finally 3 design pattern and 3 colorway were selected and add white ground. Totally 7 textile design was printed on 100% cotton, 20 yarn count, 1/2 twill. Therefore this new textile design for dementia patient's hospital clothing can be used in medical clinically and the symbol can be use for daily care item for the patients more comfort and high quality in their lives in hospital.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.40
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• pp.243-270
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• 2007

Linked pearls pattern expressed on textiles have no limited scale or shape when manufacturing, so they are free in expression. And from the design, material, and color we can analogize the social culture of that age. Oriental linked pearls pattern was started from the Sasanian Persia and introduced through the Silk Road, so it is closely connected with the East and the West culture. This study will consider from the 5th century to the 10th century; the mural costume of the West Central Asia, the ancient textiles excavated from the Sinjiang and Qinghai area of China, and the linked pearls pattern which are collected at Shosoin, Japan. And from this study, will concentrate on clarifying the linked pearls pattern's condition of the cultural exchange between the East and the West and it's structural variation process. The design of linked pearls pattern delivered to the East through the Silk Road is differed by area. For example, in the Western Pamir Plateau, where the ancient Sogdians mainly lived, the excavated linked pearls pattern's subject were deer or cassowary variated from the West Asian motif. But the ones excavated from Kucha Xingang had Chinese motifs added so they showed Chinese characters or Buddhist Bodhisattva image instead of Helios. Like this, the appearance of new patterns, which were accompanied by structural variations, gradually deviated from the standardized pattern of the Sasanian Persia. And this structural variation process has relations with the construction and arrangement method of various patterns of the after ages. The foliated floral Spray, which is placed at the lozenge space of linked pearls' space, had developed into ogival - shaped pattern (Neunghwamun). And the prevalence of geometrical structure pattern after the 10th century and the unfolding method of Tapjamun which is arranging unit pattern in order, are similar to the linked pearl pattern. In brief, linked pearls pattern accompanied by technical improvement let us understand the polished artistic code from its expression, and has importance in showing universal pattern beyond region and culture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.530-537
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to develop the measuring tool that can grasp the relationship between body and pattern, the result can be directly digitalized and developed as the pattern as body form is. There are 6 measurements; 1) the width of front and rear neck 2) the slant degree of shoulder 3) the degree of protrusion of breasts and scapulae 4) the separation of front and rear board 5) space between body and clothes 6) vertical strand in the clothes Developed measuring tool is handy in un. in which points of body to be measured are small, and it has the capability of designing the high fitness for body. The measurer developed through this study is named as $\ulcorner$Somato-pattern Measurer$\lrcorner$, size paper is named$\ulcorner$Somato-pattern Paper$\lrcorner$and the pattern made by$\ulcorner$Somato-pattern Measurer$\lrcorner$is named$\ulcorner$Somato-pattern$\lrcorner$respectively by our team. The result of this study is thought to make a great contribution to solving the various problems which can be derived in the time of pattern design because of the difference of physical forms in the same size as well as the difference between the factor of size and that of form in body.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.548-555
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to analyze the patterns of commercial Cheollik dresses by size analysis and wearing evaluation. Six kinds of commercial Cheollik dress patterns distributed on the market were selected and classified into two types group, A type group(A-1, A-2, A-3) consisting of flat type sleeve pattern and B type group(B-1, B-2, B-3) consisting of three-dimensional type sleeve pattern depending on the sleeve type. The size of the Cheollik dress pattern was analyzed, and wearing evaluations of the appearance, movability were carried out. Cheollik dress pattern was made in various size and many patterns were produced in the form of omission of components such as seop. It should be based on the understanding of the form and composition of the traditional Cheollik for pattern development. As a result of the wearing evaluation, A-2 showed the highest evaluation in the appearance and movability evaluations in type A. B-2 was the highest evaluation in appearance evaluation in type B. But in the evaluation of the movability, B-2 received the lowest evaluation because of little allowance. Therefore, the allowance in clothes should be considered enough for the movability. The result of this study can be provided as a basic data for the development of Cheollik dress pattern reflecting modern trend and the traditional beauty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.6
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• pp.861-872
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to objectively explain the visual sensibility of clothing pattern and develop the design of clothing pattern that satisfies the consumer's sensibility. The photos stimuli on clothing pattern are divided into source, presentation, layout and are composed of each 6 photos per chapter totally 48 photos and semantic differential bi-polar scales are consist of 27 couples sensibility words. The subjects were 400 females in the twenties. Data were analyzed by SAS. The major finds were as follows: 1. As a result of the factor analysis, 4 factors of visual sensibility were consist of Coordination, Hardness and Softness, Attention, Rhythm. 2. As to the difference of visual sensibility based on the composition of clothing pattern, there were differences Hardness and Softness, Rhythm by source and there were significant differences among 4 factors by presentation and layout. 3. According to the age and education level, there were significant differences in Attention, Rhythm and according to the consuming areas, there were significant differences in Coordination, Rhythm. 4. According to sensibility positioning, The clothing pattern was classified as soft-hard, simple-complicated. 5. As a result of the regression analysis, preference, consuming desire and satisfaction appears to be closely related. Good quality is related with total clothing image which is brought about composition of clothing pattern.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.63-79
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• 2011

This study examines the relationship between breast shape and brassiere construction through the comparative analysis of brassiere pattern on the breast shape. This researcher drew the brassiere pattern of developing a pre-study for Chinese female adults according to average size based on the four breast shapes. And then we measures brassiere pattern size and comparatively analyzes breast between size and shape. Comparative analysis results of brassiere patterns are verified differences of size and shape on the breast shape. Above all an angle of cup dart showed remarkable differences on the breast shape. An angle of cup dart isn't proportioned to breast size. An angle of cup dart for cone shape is bigger than dome shape. Because cone shape breast is protruded center part but dome shape breast have a shape of smooth curve like a half globe. So an angle of a cone shape breast cup dart is determined bigger than dome shape breast. For increasing the uplift effect of brassiere, brassiere pattern is different on the breast shape. And a brassiere pattern need different drawing methods about the angle of cup dart, breast inner side diameter, slope and so on. This study has an important significance that it established a mechanical relationship of breast shape and brassiere pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.807-820
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• 1997

This exploratory research was intended to develop and test a slacks pattern based upon conic model. Data came from measurements of photograph of three subjects. Silhouette of slacks was close fit on waist and hip and loose under hip level. This three-dimensional form was modeled with truncated cones. This conic model was truncated by plane of the waist level, the abdomen level, the hip level, the crotch level and the ankle level parallel to the floor. Two models that have differences in back part of the model were tested. Drafted patterns from two models were taken for each subject. Drafted experimental pattern was operated for slacks pattern. The first step was to make sideseam. Parts over crotch level were moved to both sides. And then to make waistdarts. Experimental pattern had two darts each in front and back. Each experimental slacks was evaluated by sensory test to appearance and comfort by five judges. The results can be summarized as follows. 1) Appearance and comfort of experimental pattern were judged to be satisfactory. Especially these patterns were fitted we18 in waist darts front and back. So we evaluated that was proper pattern for slacks. 2) Model 2 was better in appearance than model 1. But Model 1 was more comfortable in non significant difference. This was supposed to be resulted from fit more closely of model 2. 3) considering preceding results, this geometric model based upon truncated cone was applicable for slacks pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.11
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• pp.1536-1543
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• 2004

Garment is made by a 2D pattern and should be fitted to a human body which has 3D characteristics. Therefore, to design a pattern more effectively, the use of 3D information of a human body and the investigation of relationship between the 3D garment and 2D pattern are necessary. In this work, ruled surface method was used to reflect the 3D information of a human body for a pattern design. The images of the brassiere line on the woman's dress form were captured by phase-shifting projection moire system and the 3D information on the design line was obtained. 2D patterns on the various parts of the brassiere were developed directly from the 3D data by the ruled surface method. In addition, design line, the area and the amount of dart were quantified. And then we verify the appropriateness of the ruled surface method to the 2D pattern development by measuring the distribution of the space between women's figure and segmented clothing item. It was found that the ruled surface method is useful to transform the 3D design line to the 2D pattern, if we followed the steps suggested in this paper.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.7
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• pp.1004-1014
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to develop a well-fitting bodice basic pattern for high school irk. Two bodice patterns were first made based on the most recent existing drafting methods and sensory evaluation was done on the patterns by the present researchers Two high school girls possessing standard physical condition tried and evaluated the functionality of the garments made by the two bodice patterns. Based on the results of the evaluation, a new bodice basic pattern was developed. The new bodice basic pattern was drafted by long measurement method. The dimensions of new bodice basic pattern were as follows. Bust circumference=B/2+4cm, Arms hole depth=C.B/2+1.5cm, Back width=B/6+4cm, Front width=B/6+3cm, Back neck width=B/12+0.5cm, Back neck depth=Back neck width/3cm, Front neck width=B/12cm, Front neck depth=B/12+0.5cm. The sensory and functional evaluations were also conducted for the new bodice basic pattern and the two patterns drafted by the existing methods. The new bodice basic pattern showed better fit both visually and functionally than the existing patterns. SPSS package including means, standard deviation and one-sample T-test were used for data analysis.