• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.7
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• pp.67-78
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• 2012

This study considered and analyzed the influence of changed clothing silhouettes on the textile patterns by investigating the changes of geometry patterns in response to the changes of western women's apparel silhouette in the 1960s. The period scope of research was limited to the 1960s, and the research object was set as the geometry patterns seen in the designer's high-fashion. The researcher investigated the clothing silhouette and the textile patterns in 1960s by reviewing the literature about domestic and foreign books, research papers, domestic and foreign fashion magazines, information on the Internet. For the western women's apparel in 1960s, some active, simple styles were popular under the social atmosphere when more women actively entered the society. Influenced by popular art trends at that time, the silhouette was expressed in the geometry pattern among many textile patterns. The geometry pattern either appeared as a regularly overall repeating geometry pattern and the regularly partial repeating geometry pattern. The regularly overall repeating geometry pattern arranged the straight lines in the same interval. But the regularly partial repeating geometry pattern was arranged without order to emphasize the motif in some parts of clothing or to give some ornament effect, or was arranged asymmetrically.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.391-406
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• 1993

The purpose of this study was to utilize of apparel CAD System by the classification of the basic pattern block in pattern making process. Gerber AM-300 CAD System was used for this study. The results form this study were as follows; 1. New shirts block were developed. 2. The sensory test was applied to evaluate the new shirts block for women by comparing it with Japanese Bunka shirts blouse pattern making method. According to a statistical analysis of the result of the 20 items on the questionnaire, the 19 items showed significant difference(${\alpha}{\leq}0.01$)between the two, with the new shirts block having higher scores. 3. A basic pattern block was selected by the design sketch. 4. P/D/S were enabled to be constructed directly from a block pattern. The drawing, deletion. duplication, and movement of all points and lines in the pattern might be made freely, and the split, pivot, and movement of the pattern, and the attachment of two patterns were possible. 5. Automatic grading of finished pattern have been developed by creation and modification of grading rules of block pattern.

• Human Ecology Research
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• v.54 no.3
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• pp.279-292
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• 2016

This research predicted the fit of the basic bodice patterns worn on adolescent girls' 3-dimensional scanned bodies. Six 3-dimensional scanned bodies were selected from the sixth Size Korea data. Each of them had good body posture and represented one of the three garment sizes: 79-160, 82-160, and 85-160. Experimental basic bodice patterns were drafted by three basic bodice pattern making methods. The fit of the basic bodice pattern was analyzed by the CLO 3D virtual clothing system. The results showed that the experimental basic bodice patterns did not fit well at the neck, shoulder, and back for adolescent girls. The fit of the basic bodice patterns varied by pattern making method or size. The basic bodice pattern A with the waist darts ending above the breast line showed the best fit among the three different types of experimental pattern. Among the three sizes 79-160, 82-160, and 85-120, size 79-160 basic bodice pattern showed the worst fit for adolescent girls. The results show that the placement and size of the bodice darts affect the basic bodice pattern fit. The basic bodice pattern making method of size 79-160 for adolescent girls should be studied in a future study.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.17 no.5 s.84
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• pp.45-52
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• 2005

The optimum fabric design plan is recently needed with the relevant fabric shrinkage in dyeing and finishing processes for the various sensible fabrics for garment. For responding this need, the difference of fabric design plan such as fabric density, yarn count and finishing shrinkage has to be surveyed with weaving looms such as water jet, air-jet and rapier looms, and also has to be analysed with weave pattern such as plain, twill and satin according to the fabric manufacturers. Therefore, in this study, 420 polyester weave pattern sheets are collected from 5 fabric manufacturers, and the weave density coefficients of these fabrics are calculated using yarn count, fabric density and 1 repeat weave pattern. These weave density coefficients are analysed according to the fabric manufacturers, weaving looms and various weave patterns. And also the weave density coefficients of 420 polyester fabrics are analysed with finishing shrinkage according to the fabric manufacturers and various weave patterns such as plain, twill and satin fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.44 no.5
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• pp.969-983
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• 2020

Zero waste fashion design to minimize the 15% fabric waste generated during production can be difficult to industrialize instead of having strong originality. This study designed shirts that are practical and reflect trends using the zero waste pattern cutting method and suggest the possibilities for industrial production. The content of the study are as follows. First, the pattern cutting method of zero waste fashion design was studied. Second, the recent trends of shirt design were analyzed and reflected in the design development. Third, 4 zero waste shirt designs were developed and produced by applying the geometric cutting, puzzle cutting, and minimal cutting methods. As for the research method, literature research was conducted on related references; in addition, design development and production were conducted empirically. As a result, the developed zero waste shirts are practical and trendy. In addition, the results of the study are meaningful to provide basic data for the commercialization and industrial application of zero waste fashion design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.46 no.6
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• pp.1074-1087
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• 2022

This study reports an optimization of a 3D printed wrist brace (WB) for various tilting angles (0°, 45°, 90°) of the re-entrant (RE) pattern and thickness (2 mm, 4 mm) using thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) filaments and thermoplastic elastomer (TPE) filaments. The actual printing time, weight, Poisson's ratio, and tensile property of the manufactured samples were analyzed. The results confirmed that the actual printing time and weight increased with increasing thickness, regardless of the filament type. All tilting angles of the WB showed a negative Poisson's ratio (NPR), the largest of which appeared at 90°. The results of the tensile property analysis showed that a 90° tilting angle also had the largest value of elongation and stress. From these results, we conclude that the most suitable wrist brace is one in which the actual printing time is low, the weight is minimized to a thickness of 2 mm, and the tilting angle of the RE pattern is 90° for good shock absorption. The choice of filaments may be decided upon according to the user's preference, since the TPU is stiff and the TPE is elastic.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.116-129
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to research on changes of body surface according to golf movements in designs of golf slacks pattern and reflect it to designs of golf slacks pattern to enhance adaptability. For the first stage of this study, length of body surface was analyzed by using 3D body shape. In second stage, analysis of wearing test of golf slacks is performed to extract major pattern design factor of golf slacks and then research patterns were designed. In third stage, 4 differently designed 1st, 2nd slacks were used for analysis of 3D Clothing air volume. The results of this research is as follow. The variation rate of body surface length according to golf swing posture resulted the longest on back swing posture and follow through posture. Waist circumference-omphalion, thigh and ankle circumference increased more than 10% of body surface during golf swing. Front waist circumference-omphalion, right waist to hip length, left waist to hip length and right back center length were decreased more than 10%. As a result of analysis on measurements of 1st slacks pattern design, waist front center getting in values, waist front center going down value, front hip width, and front crotch extension had similar industrial pattern design. Back center line angle, back crotch extension, and knee center point~back waist center point had significant differences. The designs and ease proposed for golf slacks pattern in this study are waist circumference 75.5 cm(1.8 cm, 2.38%), hip circumference 95 cm(2 cm, 2.11%), crotch length(front: -0.8 cm, -1.25%; rear: -1.8 cm, -2.83%), slacks length 96c m, gradient of C.B.L $10^{\circ}$, crotch extension (back 9.2~10.4 cm, front 3.2 cm).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.482-492
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• 1998

With the purpose of developing a objective fitness evaluation system for knits, the basic bodice pattern for knit was drafted and the suitability of the altered pattern was evaluated. For each of nine different knits, six sleeveless shirts were made with patterns that were altered by different pattern alteration rate: 0%, 30%, 40%, 50%, 60%, or 70% of the stretch rate of the knit. The panel that was composed of 25 clothing specialists evaluated the fitness of the garments. The distance from the dress form landmark to the garment landmark was measured from each experimental garment. And the results of garment fitness evaluation and the measurement of distance from the dress form landmark to garment landmark were compared. The results of this study are as follows: There was high correlation(r$\geq$0.9) between the evaluation of the panel about the garment fit and the landmarks distance. The stretch rate of knits affected the evaluation of the garment fit. The stretch rate in course of knits affected on the garment fit at crosswise direction. The suitable pattern alteration rate was lower than 30% for the knits with high stretch rate in course. It was concluded that in order to get the appropriate knit bodice pattern length, the front bodice pattern must be less shorten than the back bodice pattern. The alteration rate at hip line must be lower than for waist or bust line.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.1165-1178
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• 2010

This study is aimed at developing low waist slacks pattern with high satisfaction measurements and beauty for the tween generation girls. For this study, the research method was as follows. By extracting and analyzing industrial and educational slacks pattern, beautiful and motion-suitable slacks pattern will be created. This study presents the ideal slacks pattern that has great fit to tween generation girls by comparing and analyzing the previous 2 slacks pattern studies and the real clothing test. The constructed pattern in the 1st step was modified and adjusted from the best industrial patterns' the location of waist line, waist line gradient, rear waist bottom crotch, hip bottom crotch, dart length, the ease of hip girth, the fitness of rear bottom crotch line which were not well-estimated. The 2nd step was appearance and movement test based on the 1st study. In The 3rd step, the 2nd step was chosen as the final slacks study pattern for its superior appearance & movement satisfaction comparing with other patterns.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.62-68
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• 1999

The study has examined about the origin and change of traditional Japanese dress "Kosode" and classified it according to its ages and also classified its patterns which appeared on the Kosode by its kinds, and divide the patterns with constituent method and expressional method and so, studied and analyzed them with type of patterns according to the change of the times. The result of research were as follows: 1. Subject of patterns that appeared on the Kosode was used with mainly plant pattern, animals pattern, pictorial pattern, artificial pattern, and abstract patterns. 2. Expressional method of this patterns was mostly expressed simply with tie dyeing in ancient times, but it changed complex its expressional method and diversely due to the development of common's culture as time goes on. 3. For the arrangement of its pattern were arranged regularly mostly make demarcate and though they are as if seemed dispersed, but a characteristic that can find regulations in it. 4. Transition of patterns that appeared on the Kosode it developed at the beginning of ancient syouboon, Katasuso pattern and Katamigaori patterns at the samurai's society in the medieval society and developed to Koicho kosode and Kambun kosode in modern times.