• Archives of design research
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• v.21
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• pp.55-64
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• 1997

This paper is a study on the 'primitivism' which is constantly being applied on modem and contemporary textile design as a aItanative expression of the serious environmental phenomena of materialism. Starting with the analyzation of the 'concept of primitivism' , this paper is to research the 'origin of primitivism' which was first recognized by the modem artists. Primitivism on modem textile design will be suggested through 'trend terms'. The purpose of this paper is to be a basic material source for the creative development in design as well as to be of help in development of theoretical the study on contemporary textile design.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.207-213
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• 2010

Natural dyeing of Sangju silk for graveclothes with mulberry extract solution was studied. The anthocyanidin dye in the extracted mulberry solution was markedly influenced by pH condition, which resulted in the changed maximum light absorption from a $\lambda$max of 525nm in acidic condition to 380nm in alkaline condition possibly due to the irreversible transformation of anthocyanidin to cyanidin form of the dye. The color fastness properties to both light and washing were good when the fabrics were dyed at $80^{\circ}C$ with the mulberry-extracted solution upto twice extraction.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.137-160
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• 2001

A study on the structural change in the U.S. textile industry. The U.S. textile industry has undergone significant changes over the last fifty years, including a steady decline in the relative scale of domestic production, employment reduction, and increased competition from imported products. In order to weather a crisis, the responses of the U.S. textile industry have been made such as investment in technology, specalization in the textile and apparel industries. The textile and apparel industries have taken steps to increase labor productivity through automations to speed management to create and introduce new products and new methods, and have lowered indirect overhead costs. Regarding these response of the U.S. and other situation of world textile and apparel trade market, much of the sense of crisis that pervades korean textile and apparel industries has to do with the problem of adjusting corporate policy.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.67-84
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• 2019

Since the early 2000s, various fashion design products that use 3D printing technology have constantly been introduced to the fashion industry. However, given the nature of 3D printing technology, the flexible characteristics of material of textile fabrics is yet to be achieved. The aim of this study is to develop the optimal design conditions for production of flexible and elastic 3D printing fabric structure based on plain weave, which is the basic structure in fabric weaving using SLS 3D printing technology. As a the result this study aims to utilize appropriate design conditions as basic data for future study of flexible fashion product design such as textile material. Weaving structural design using 3D printing is based on the basic plain weave, and the warp & weft thickness of 4mm, 3mm, 2mm, 1.5mm, 1mm, and 0.7mm as expressed in Rhino 6.0 CAD software program for making a 3D model of size $1800mm{\times}180mm$ each. The completed 3D digital design work was then applied to the EOS SLS Machine through Maker ware, a program for 3D printer output, using polyamide 12 material which has a rigid durability strength, and the final results obtained through bending flexibility tests. In conclusion, when designing the fabric structure design in 3D printing using SLS method through application of polyamide 12 material, the thickness of 1 mm presented the optimal condition in order to design a durable digital textile structure with flexibility and elasticity of the 3D printing result.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.131-146
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to implement the textile design applying the floral pattern shown in Korean traditional fabrics and the New-Hanbok Chulic Dress in 3D through a virtual fitting system. As a research method, first, we analyzed the floral pattern types of fabrics in the literature related to traditional Korean textiles. Second, we developed textile designs of traditional flower motifs using 13 extracted flower types. Third, we applied the floral textile designs to the 3D original form of new-Hanbok Dress produced based on design preference survey results. The findings derived through this study are as follows. First, among Korean traditional patterns, the type of flowers used in textiles were blossom of chrysanthemum, orchid, camellia, apricot, peony, peach, pomegranate, hydrangea, narcissus, lotus, plum, chinese rose, and rosa rugosa. Second, this study found that the value of traditional culture can be further increased by using traditional flower patterns as an infinite source of creative design. Third, it was confirmed that the new-Hanbok can be developed endlessly as a clothing design that combines various morphological modifications and patterns without departing from traditional designs. In the future, if the research on costume design using various items of traditional clothing and the development of textile designs based on traditional culture continues, the development of new clothes design that leads to the development of Korean traditional clothing culture and meets the sensibilities of modern people will be endless.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.2
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• pp.45-54
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• 2013

With the development of digital technology, clothes of unique textiles using the digital printing techniques have appeared as a creative trend in textile design. The development of digital textile printing technology has allowed the fashion industry to utilize it as an expressive method of a surrealist trend in current fashion designs, and so it is necessary to understand and study this phenomenon. The present study is an attempt to understand this modern fashion phenomena from an artistic perspective by looking at textile designs that applied actual images to textiles, so that this trend in fashion design can be better understood. In this context, this study aims to examine characteristics and expressive techniques of d$\acute{e}$paysement, automatisme associated with digital textile printing by using actual images among surrealist expressions, and to investigate creative expressions of textile design freely expressing the visual boundary between reality and surrealism with the development of digital technology. For research methods, we reviewed technical texts and previous studies related to our research topic for theoretical exploration and investigated the Internet data and used them for basic data. In the case study, we came up with the characteristics and meanings by classifying fashion design cases using digital textile printing techniques according to expressive techniques of surrealist d$\acute{e}$paysement, automatisme. Details of this study are as follows: First, it investigates the definition and expressive characteristics of d$\acute{e}$paysement, automatisme of the surrealist expression for its theoretical understanding. Second, it comes up with the characteristics by analyzing the digital textile cases from the perspective of d$\acute{e}$paysement, automatisme. Third, it deduces the expressive methods and characteristics of digital textile printing from a the perspective of surrealist d$\acute{e}$paysement, automatisme based on the resulting characteristics. The conclusions show that d$\acute{e}$paysement, automatisme, which consists of improvisation and coincidence, maximized the mysterious images of derealisation and mysterious primitive images. These things emphasized the characteristics of maximization of images, derealisation, and rationalization of irrationalism.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.2 no.3
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• pp.198-204
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• 2000

This study aimed to analyze the characteristics of domestic textile designs for miss and madam apparel and to find out the trend sensibility felt by young female judge according to the product year and apparel target age. Textile designs of 170 pictures of 1999 and 1994-1995 were collected at 4 shopping malls and from consumers, and results are as follows; As the sources of textile design were 'nature', 'imagination', and 'combination' used in the order of frequence, but the sources appeared more diverse in 1999 than in 1994-1995. The interpretation techniques expressed most often were 'stylized', 'geometry', and the mast frequent arrangements were 'all over', and the second was '4-way' in 19941995, '2-way' in 1999, that is, the arrangement were different according to product year. The trend sensibility were varying to the target age and product year.1999 apparel products were felt more 'sophisticated', 'contemporary', and 'sporty' if they were the textile designs for miss, while 1994-1995 products were more 'sophisticated', 'contemparary', and 'sporty' if for madam.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.87-102
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• 2004

By introducing Mondrian's creative world into the field of fashion design, I examined how its application can satisfy not only visual expressions but also the desire of fashion design for its simplicity, individuality, and sensitivity. As a program developing designs and guiding how to produce, the textile CAD system helps to develop a variety of textile systems. In case of dying or textile printing, a variety of free expressions of print patterns and functional color simulations are possible by the configuration of colors or enlargement of design. It can also confirm the flexible simulation with a variety of color changes through the monitor by treating the knit design with dots. Especially in case of consulting for the design with ordering customers, the system is very speedy and effective, because it is possible to correct on the spot those complicated elements of designs and color sensation and see the prints in the light of marketing, processing and artistic value. Mondrian's Art, beauty of balance and proportion in the Mondrian's plastic forms, the changes of coloring and texture were added into vertical and horizontal lines and the divisions of faces for the dressmaking. Whether they were the reciprocal action of human body, texture and color or the reciprocal action of human body and colors, these changes will be interpreted differently, depending on the individuals' experiences and psychological moods of situations. The emphases of the sense are also different, depending on the activity and functionality.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.1 no.4
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• pp.335-341
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to develop a large representative data base for socks marketing strategy. The study was to determine socks brand awareness in ralation to segmented distribution regions and such demographic variables as sex and age. The authors also analyzed preferred design. A total of 650 questionnaires were distributed and 611 reliable ones were used for statistical analysis. A SAS statistical package including frequency tables and chi square test was used. The results are as follows: Brand awareness involves "brand recall" based on asking a person to name the brand he or she recalls first, and also "brand recognition" based on asking subjects to identify brand names from 30 given brands. 'SOCKSTOP' was found to be a dominant brand as a result of the brand recall test, and 'BYC' was found to be a dominant brand as a result of the brand recognition test. Brand recognition was significantly different in the segmented distribution regions, three age groups and different sex groups. People considered design first in purchasing sports/casual socks, while they considered color first in purchasing dress socks. The most favored type of sock style was the common crew sock type. The results of a chi square test showed that preferred type of sock design was related with the sex and age variables.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.146-159
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• 2002

This study examines the textile pattern design of Italian fashion brands and their brand extensions by comparing their images. Five Italian fashion brands are chosen and the textile pattern design of their brand extensions, which were presented during the eight collection. Then their design style is compared with the design style of their main brands. The five main brands and their brand extensions are as fellows: Anna Molinari-Blumarine, Dolce & Gabbana-D&G, Girogio Armani-Emporio Armani, Gian Franco Ferre'-GFF, and Prada-MiuMiu. Their color, motive type, motive layout, motive expression, and pattern drawing technique are examined and compared. Results suggest that most brand extensions generally use color, motive type motive layout. and motive expression similar to their main brands. In particular, their pattern drawing technique is a painting style white their main brands use a graphic style. This result suggests that to create and develop new brand extensions, Italian fashion (main brand) firms in general employ color, motive type, motive layout, and motive expression technique similar to main brands, but different drawing technique to differentiate from their main brands. The results of this study suggest that textile pattern design plays an important role in developing new brand extensions and thus should be considered as a crucial part of the product.