• Title/Summary/Keyword: Textile-Design

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현대패션에 나타난 역사주의에 관한 연구;비비안 웨스트우드와 크리스챤 라크로아 작품을 중심으로 (A Study on the Historicism in Modern Fashion -Through the Artworks of Vivienne Westwood and Christian Lacroix-)

  • 나현신;전혜정
    • 한국의류학회지
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    • 제24권4호
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    • pp.463-474
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    • 2000
  • The purposes of this study is to investigate the characteristics of historicism in modern fashion and to introduce the appropriate approaching and application method of costume history. As one of the characteristic of Post modernism, historicism is an important theme in modern fashion. In this study, the background and the characteristic of Post modernism is considered and the historicism in the Post modern architecture and literature is studied. Next, through the artworks of Vivienne Westwood and Christian Lacroix who are excellent in the modernization of historical costume, the historicism in modern fashion is studied. The characteristic of historicism in Post modem architecture and literature comes from the nostalgia, aspiration for the past, and recurrence to the nature. It is not the revival of the past but the crossover of the past and the present. The characteristics of historicism in modern fashion are as follows. ·form; style, silhouette, and items that are shown in the historical costume come with the mixture of modem textile, new technique, and modem design. ·Materials and patterns; classical and romantic patterns, the artwork of the artist, and the fabric which is remake of remains are used. ·Technique; Tailoring techniques and the pattern making of the historical costume are used. ·Trimmings and etc.; Lots of handworks, trimmings and accessaries in that are inspired from the past are used. These elements are not come from a certain place and time but mixed surpassing places and times. With that, not only the form and the position of wearing but the meaning and purpose of wearing are changed.

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고등학생의 의복 착용 동기, 캐주얼 브랜드 선호 및 구매 실태에 나타나는 지역과 성별 차이 (Regional and Gender Differences between High School Students Groups in Clothing-Wearing Motives, Casual Brand Preference and Actual Purchasing Condition)

  • 박상진;조윤진;정인희
    • 한국의류학회지
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    • 제33권4호
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    • pp.574-585
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    • 2009
  • This study intended to identify regional and gender differences between high school students groups in clothing-wearing motives, casual brand preference and actual purchasing condition. Using a $2{\times}2$ sampling frame, 100 responses were collected for each regional and gender group: male students in Seoul, females in Seoul, males in Gumi, and females in Gumi. In terms of clothing-wearing motives, Gumi students and female students showed more highly extroverted motives than males and Seoul students, respectively. And three groups were determined on the basis of clothing-wearing motives: the extroversion group, the introversion group, and the least clothing-cognizing group. Concerning the brand preference factor, female students showed more dispersed brand preference than males. Adidas and Puma were preferred by all 4 groups. Polo and Guess were preferred by Seoul students, and Clide, Banila B, and TBJ were preferred by female students. The determinants of brand preference were identified as quality, reliability, affirmative image, and some brand personas such as 'neat', 'natural' and 'polished'. The students from Seoul tend to pay more money for clothing than those from Gumi, and Seoul students' main purchasing place was identified as department store while Gumi students shop more at brand chain stores.

Analysis of Visual Sensibility Evaluation of Naturally Colored Organic Cotton: Identification of Reliability and Proper Scouring Method

  • Park, Jang-Woon;Chang, Yoon;Hong, Won-Gi;Lee, Myung-Eun;Han, Ah-Reum;Chae, Young-Joo;Cho, Gil-Soo;You, Hee-Cheon
    • 대한인간공학회지
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    • 제30권2호
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    • pp.311-317
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    • 2011
  • Objective: The present study was intended to identify (1) the intra- and inter-rater reliabilities of a visual sensibility evaluation protocol and (2) the effects of NaCOC color and scouring method on the visual sensibility of NaCOC. Thirty female participants(20s & 30s) were participated in the visual sensibility evaluation of NaCOC. Background: Interests in naturally colored organic cotton(NaCOC) increase rapidly in parallel with the social trend of eco-friendly living and wellbeing. Method: Three color sets (ivory, green, and coyote-brown) of NaCOC specimens including one untreated and four treated specimens($Na_2CO_3$; NaOH; enzyme; boiling water) were examined in the study. The visual sensibility evaluation was conducted by the test-retest method using nine pairs of bipolar visual sensibility adjectives(bright-dark; clear-murky; heavy-light; vivid-subdued; warm-cool; fresh-stale; strong-weak; showy-plain; and luxurious-cheap). Results: As a result of reliability of a visual sensibility evaluation protocol, inter-rater variability(average SD=1.06) of visual sensibility evaluation was more than 1.4 times the intra-rater variability(average SD=0.74). However, both the sensibility evaluation reliabilities did not show any systematic pattern of changes. Lastly, ANOVA and post-hoc analysis showed that preferred scouring methods for a visual sensibility adjective pair significantly vary depending on NaCOC color. Application: Both the reliability of visual sensibility evaluation protocol and the analysis of proper scoring method of NaCOC in the study would be useful information to design the affective textile.

닥섬유 특성을 이용한 패션 주얼리 표현 연구 (A Study on the Expression of Fashion Jewelry Using the Characteristics of Paper Mulberry Fiber)

  • 이지현;전양배;간호섭
    • 패션비즈니스
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    • 제24권5호
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    • pp.35-51
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    • 2020
  • To satisfy consumers' desire to enjoy their own individuality and cultural trends, the discovery of various materials and the expression of materials embodying their characteristics are increasingly important in the fashion jewelry industry. This study examines, paper mulberry fiber, a raw material of hanji that has been excavated as a new material for fashion jewelry, is durable as wall as, soft and easy to form, has a unique texture along with, excellent aesthetic quality, and expresses various colors, thereby differentiating itself from traditional fashion jewelry materials. The material itself also has symbolic significance as an approach to discovering new sustainable materials for fashion jewelry to ensure increased specificity of the product based on the premise of freedom of expression. The weight and optimal drying time of chicken fiber were derived for the study of fashion jewelry expression using the characteristics of paper mulberry fiber. The techniques of casting, deflection, packing and winding (winding beads with fibers and straps) were derived and four brooches were produced in total. This study is meaningful for the future of, the fashion jewelry industry as it presents the uses of new materials such as paper mulberry fiber to induce multidisciplinary consumption and to suggest a direction for the creation of new value-added products. Further, in order to expand the realm of fashion jewelry industry with our own competitive products that have secured our cultural identity and uniqueness in the global market, there must be continued follow-up research on mass production methods for industrialization.

특허정보를 활용한 분산형 에너지 기술융합 네트워크 분석 : 대구지역을 중심으로 (Network Analysis of Technology Convergence on Decentralized Energy by Using Patent Information : Focused on Daegu City Area)

  • 한장협;나중규;김채복
    • 산업경영시스템학회지
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    • 제39권3호
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    • pp.156-169
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    • 2016
  • The objective of this study is to investigate patent trends of Daegu city which tries to introduce environment friendly energy and to develop new technology or new industry sprung from technology convergence on smart decentralized energy technology and other technologies. After applying network analysis to corresponding groups of technology or industry convergence, strategy for future energy convergence industry is provided. Patent data applied in Daegu city area are used to obtain research goal. The technology which contains several IPC codes (IPC Co-occurrence) is considered as a convergence technology. Path finder network analysis is used for visualizing and grouping by using IPC codes. The analysis results categorized 13 groups in energy convergence industry and reclassified them into 3 cluster groups (Smart Energy Product Production Technology Group, Smart Energy Convergence Supply Technology Group, Smart Energy Indirect Application Technology Group) considering the technical characteristics and policy direction. Also, energy industry has evolved rapidly by technological convergence with other industries. Especially, it has been converged with IT industry, and there is a trend that energy industry will be converged with service industry and manufacturing industry such as textile, automobile parts, mechanics, and logistics by employing infrastructure as well as network. Based on the research results on core patent technology, convergence technology and inter-industry analysis, the direction of core technology research and development as well as evolution on decentralized energy industry is identified. By using research design and methodology in this study, the trend of convergence technology is investigated based on objective data (patent data). Above all, we can easily confirm the core technology in the local industry by analyzing the industrial competitiveness in the macro level. Based on this, we can identify convergence industry and technology by performing the technological convergence analysis in the micro level.

유한요소 해석을 통한 치과용 초음파 Scaler의 설계 및 평가 (Design and Evaluation of Ultrasonic dental scaler produced for Finite Element Analysis)

  • 김철민;이영진;정영훈;백종후;강국진;이정배;이승대
    • 한국전기전자재료학회:학술대회논문집
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    • 한국전기전자재료학회 2009년도 하계학술대회 논문집
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    • pp.20-20
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    • 2009
  • 치아의 치석제거 및 치골절삭에 사용되는 초음파 스케일러는 일반적으로 마그넷형과 압전형으로 구분할 수 있으며, 최근에 들어 소형화, 저전력, 정밀성, 저비용 등의 장점으로 인해 압전형이 주로 사용되고 있다. 국내의 대부분의 치과에서 한 대 이상 운용되는 초음파 스케일러는 대부분 유럽 제품으로며, 국내에서는 이를 대체하기 위한 제품이 출시되고 있으나 아직까지 유럽 제품에 비해 출력강도, 정밀도 등에서 성능이 모자란 현실로 시장에서 외면 받고 있다. 본 연구에서는 앞서 언급한 압전 초음파 스케일러에 대한 체계적인 연구를 진행하여 외국에 비해 상대적으로 성능이 떨어지는 초음파 스케일러의 성능을 개선하고자 하였다. 이를 위하여 스케일러의 진동 발생부, 즉 압전 세라믹과 SUS 재질의 head, tail 부로 구성된 진동발생부의 최적구조톨 도출하기 위하여 유한요소 해석을 실시하였으며, 스케일러의 중심주파수 28kHz에서 최대 출력이 발생할 수 있는 구조를 도출하였다. 스케일러의 Head 와 Tail 부문의 두께와 직경, 길이 변화에 따른 중심주파수 및 출력 변위의 경향분석을 실시하였으며, 이상의 결과를 바탕으로 실제 스케일러를 제작하여 시뮬레이션의 유효성을 검증하였다. 이상의 과정으로 거쳐 개발된 압전 초음파 스케일러는 다양한 Tip 종류의 영향을 최소화할 수 있으며, 중심주파수는 28~30kHz 에서 뛰어난 성능을 나타내어 기종 유럽제품의 성능을 앞지르는 특성을 확보할 수 있었다.

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'ㅂ'자 자수형 도전사 UHF RFID 태그 안테나 (Embroidery 'ㅂ' Character Type UHF RFID Tag Antenna Design)

  • 정유정;김연호;이경환
    • 한국전자파학회논문지
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    • 제20권10호
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    • pp.1071-1076
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    • 2009
  • 본 논문에서는 도전사를 이용하여 UHF 대역에서 동작하는 'ㅂ'자 자수 형태의 wearable RFID tag 안테나를 설계하였다. T-정합 형태를 가지는 'ㅂ'자의 자수형 tag 안테나를 다양한 도전사의 특성을 분석하여 전기적 성질이 좋은 200D(데니아)의 도전사로 자수 형태로 의복에 직접 자수를 넣을 수 있도록 설계하였다. 의류 위에 전도성을 가진 도전사를 이용한 태그를 자수해서 넣음으로 해서 의류의 착용할 수 있고 구부러질 수 있으면서 인식이 가능하게 하였다. 도전사의 데니아(denier)별로 제작 가능한 실의 전기적 특성을 측정하고, 그 측정치를 기반으로 자수 형태의 RFID 태그를 제작하였다. 제작한 안테나의 성능을 검증하기 위하여 반사 손실, 인식 거리 패턴 등을 측정하여 약 1.52 m의 인식 거리를 갖는 것으로 나타났다.

근대이후 여자저고리 봉제방법의 특징과 변화요인 (Characteristics of the Sewing Methods Used for Women's Jeogori, and the Factors of their Changes in Modern Times)

  • 박나나;조우현
    • 복식
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    • 제60권7호
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    • pp.88-102
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    • 2010
  • The research examines the characteristics of the sewing methods used for women's Jeogori in modern Korea. The results are following. In the 1920s sewing of shoulder parts was started, and in the 1930s sewing by hand had reduced by dissemination of sewing-machine, and in the 1940s the Som-jeogori declined by the matter of economic and sanitary issues. In the 1950s four-fold sewing emerged, and during the 1960s the gause-lined triple-layered Jeogori was in fashion, and in the 1970s the Ggaeggi-jeogori and much elaborated Jeogori became in vogue. The characteristics of the sewing methods are changed by following factors. First, the dissemination of sewing-machine in the 1930's enabled fast and precise sewing of Jeogori which reduced the rate of clothes mending and the production period. Second, by development of washing method, the dry cleaning became common, resulting cleaner washing and better preservation. Third, introduction of western clothes gave rise to modernized Han-bok which was changed into practical and simple one. Fourth, by the introduction of synthetic textile and industry development, Jeogori with no armhole line or right Seop line was made using wide selection of textiles. Fifth, in 1945~60s, women learned' good wife and wise mother' education and the use of sewing machine in school. The clothing lifestyle affected the sewing method's change, for example, clothes sewed strongly by sewing machine not to take clothes apart, and attaching button instead of Go-reum to save clothes.

19세기 후반 이후 주류패션과 반패션에 표현된 성의 다원화에 관한 맥락적 연구 (A Contextual Study of the Pluralization of Sexuality Represented in Mainstream Fashion and Anti-Fashion Since the Late $19^{th}$ Century)

  • 최경희
    • 복식
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    • 제57권5호
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    • pp.166-182
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    • 2007
  • The purpose of this study is to reinterpret sexuality represented in fashion since the latter half of the 19th century in a contextual view, on the basis of Foucauldian idea of post-structural sexuality. As for research methodology, literary research was undertaken from the conception of sexuality to a historical review of the culture and dress. Foucault maintains the view of plural sexuality, which floats by power relationship between dominant and oppositional discourses in a specific historical context. In contextual approach sexual ideology codified in fashion since the latter 19C shows the following aspects: First, the traditional sexual ideology in the latter 19C is a capitalist value, which gives a priority to bourgeois man's profits, and the Victorian discourses of sexuality constructs the dichotomized fashion of the period. Next, the former half of the $20^{th}$ C is regarded as the period of conformity rather than opposition with various alternatives appropriated to the mainstream, so the traditional sexual ideology in fashion of this period is still preserved. Finally, in post-capitalism period of the latter 20C a variety of anti-fashion visualized plural sexuality from the enormous oppositional discourses. Although it doesn't all mean deconstruction of sexuality in fashion by the anti-fashion re-appropriated without oppositional meanings, pluralization of sexuality implies dynamics of sexual discourses in the next historical period. As a result, fashion since the latter 19C has been changed as a means for expressing age and sexual desire out of gender and class. And mainstream fashion in even postmodern period keeps the modern value on the center of the hegemonic heterosexual masculinity though the increase of Androgynous Femininity in women's fashion may connote the meaning of femininity. The plural sexuality represented in fashion has a contextual flexibility, thus sexuality floats with a specific socio-cultural context and fashion represents a masquerade as an identity vehicle.

물방울무늬의 크기가 의복이미지에 미치는 영향 -원피스드레스를 중심으로- (Influence of the Size of Polka Dots on the Image of Clothes -Focused on One-piece Dress-)

  • 최혜원;류숙희
    • 한국의류학회지
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    • 제31권5호
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    • pp.742-752
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    • 2007
  • The purpose of this study is the image of clothing according to the change of the dots' size was analyzed and its influence on the formation of the image of polka dots clothing was investigated. White waterdrop patterns were designed on the 12 kinds of black texture using Photoshop and CAD program in regular arrangement of diamond figure, composed of white waterdrop(0.5cm, 1.0cm, 1.5cm and 2cm in diameter) and interval(diameter : interval-1 : 1, 1 : 2, 1 : 4). Applying above specification, the photograph stimulus of 12 kinds of X-line one-piece dress with wide square neckline and without sleeve or detailed ornament was presented on a screen in the same size as when putting it on. The image of polka dots clothes was investigated by questionnaire survey. The object of the study was 320 females aged between 16 and 29. Factor analysis, one-way ANOVA, $Scheff\acute{e}$ verification and two-way ANOVA using SPSS 10.0 were carried out for data analysis. Followings are the results: 1) The image of polka dots clothing consists of 4 factors as aesthetics, brevity, dynamism and lightweight. 2) The size of the dot has a great influence on the formation of the image of polka dots clothing. 3) The evaluations of the image of polka dots clothing were different depending on the age and physical image, the personal characteristics of the object of investigation.