• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.6
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• pp.873-885
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• 2016

It is common knowledge that a conventionally woven textile consists of two assemblies of parallel threads (warp and weft), one interlaced with the other at ninety degrees. Where each of the two assemblies is arranged in a particular colour sequence, a check design, known as a 'tartan', may be created. Although similar check-type cloths have been produced worldwide, it is the tartans of Scotland which have received most attention and it is here that a complex set of rules evolved and tartans of different types became associated traditionally with different regions, family groups or 'clans'. There is an impressive array of publications focused on the identification of tartans and their clan associations. This paper explains the nature of tartans, analyses typical surface structures, ratios and proportions, and suggests possible avenues of use for modern designers. The principal sources of data were a collection of tartans held at ULITA - An Archive of International Textiles (University of Leeds, UK) and Stewart's 1974 publication The Setts of Scottish Tartans. Based on the observation that divisions into halfs and thirds were dominant, a series of templates is presented with the intention of developing an awareness among designers that ratios and proportions used in familiar or traditional frameworks can be employed in a modern context.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.10-22
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• 1995

Cellulosic fabrics, i.e. rayon, polynosic, and linen were treated with liquid ammonia at -33.4$^{\circ}C$. The fine structures, bending properties, tensile strength, wrinkle recoveries, and dyeing properties of the treated fabrics were studied. Dyeing was carried out with two direct dyes, C. I. Direct Red 2 and Blue 1. The liquid ammonia treatment for three fabrics brought about the transition of crystal lattices and the decrease of crystallinity; transforming cellulose I structure of original linen to cellulose I and III structure, and cellulose II structure of original rayon and polynosic to cellulose II and III structure. Moisture regain of liquid ammonia- treated polynosic and linen was higher than that for untreated, and water absorbency of liquid ammonia-traeated fabrics was all lower than that of untreated. Also, bending properties of treated fabrics were not improved compared with those of untreated ones. The rayon treated with liquid ammonia was increased not only the apparent diffusion coefficient and the rate of dyeing but also equilibrium dye adsortion, whereas polynosic and linen were increased only equilibrium dye adsortion. It is suggested that the pore sizes of liquid ammonia-treated rayon, polynosic, and linen are much smaller than that of liquid ammonia-treated cotton.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.7-13
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• 2009

The effects of 0.1g/dl nonionic surfactant solutions on liquid wetting and retention properties of wool fabric are reported. The 10 different nonionic surfactants (Span 20, Tween 20, 40, 60, 80, 21, 61, 81, 65, 85), wool cloth (EMPA 217), and wool soiled cloth (EMPA 107) are used in the study. Both EMPA 217 and 107 have water contact angle($\Theta$)>$90^{\circ}$, which indicates that water spreading over a fabric surface and penetration into the fabric rarely occur. However, EMPA 217 and 107 are easily wetted with perchloroethylene(PCE) having very low values of $\Theta$'s and high values of liquid retention. Water wetting properties are greatly improved by adding nonionic surfactants into the system. Generally, hydrophilic surfactants which have low number of carbon atoms or unsaturated hydrophobic structures are effective in improving water wetting of wool fabrics. The water retention of EMPA 217 and 107 in surfactant solutions have positive relations with $cos{\Theta}$, adhesion tension, and work of adhesion. 40.3% pore volume of EMPA 217 and 26.1% pore volume of EMPA 217 can be filled with water even when we assume $cos{\Theta}=1$ (${\Theta}=0^{\circ}$).

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.26 no.4
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• pp.305-310
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• 2014

In this study, we presented a newly synthesized pyrene-naphthalene diimide(NDI)-pyrene triad. The optical and structural properties were examined using various characterization techniques. A donor-acceptor-donor triad molecule exhibited a strong charge transfer, though there existed neither intramolecular nor intermolecular hydrogen bonding sites, due to the formation of preferential complementary complex between pyrene and NDI. Powder XRD measurement revealed a sharp and distinctive X-ray patterns, indicating the presence of microcrystalline-like structure. POM images showed anisotropic fingerprint texture similar to that of cholesteric phase, and SEM images showed numerous columnar structures with length of 1 to $10{\mu}m$. Above observation clearly demonstrated that ${\pi}$-complementary NDI-pyrene interactions in the traid was strong enough to form columnar aggregates in the long range.

• Applied Chemistry for Engineering
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.178-187
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• 1993

Degradation of the starch-polyethylene composite film by an activated sludge treatment and a soil burial test was examined. The treated films had deformed structures which were resulted from the removal of starch during the treatments. The added auto-oxidant caused the degradation of the polyethylene matrices and the crosslinking reactions after the oxidation of polyethylene chains as well. As a result of soil burial test, the degradation reaction of the composite film containing corn oil as an auto-oxidant was, however, prevalent : number- and weight-average molecular weight of polyethylene decreased, while the molecular weight distribution increased.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.43 no.3 s.205
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• pp.131-145
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• 2005

The purpose of the study was to determine ae forms, patterns and structures of Huipils as traditional clothes in Guatemala and Mexico, and to cite possibilities of applying the findings of the study, acquired by comparing the differences of the two countries' Huipils, to textile or costume design. There are two types of Huipils. One is for everyday wear and another one is for special occasion. The latter is bigger in size, more colorful and is worn on top of the daily use Huipil. Huipils consist of 1 to 3 panels, and are usually made by weaving rectangular cloth which has 4 selvedges. There are various neckline such as - type, T type, 1 type, round type and square type. The types of the neckline depends on how many panels are used. The Mexican Huipils are worn usually over skirts, whereas the Huipils of Guatemalans are practically designed with white cotton that doesn't have any patterns so as to be easily put into skirts. Different from Mexicans' Huipils which mainly show big botanical patterns, the patterns of Guatemalans' Huipils combine animals, plants and abstract concepts display mixed aspects, and it seems to me that that expressed their emotions and dearest wishes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.10
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• pp.1-15
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• 2011

Constructivism is an avant-garde movement that began in 20th-century Russia, which rapidly turned into an industrial society. This was one of the most experimental art movements, that wanted to be at the center of social and political-ideological change as it pursued a unique style, which portrayed the true essence of art and humanity. Russian constructivism greatly influenced modern fashion and suggested a new artistic standard. First, the artistic elements of Russian constructivism include photo montages, geometrical structures, color abstraction, and an asymmetrical order, through which the ideals of the Russian Revolution were substantiated, idealized, and materialized into an artistic form. Second, the different forms of Russian constructivism have various artistic characteristics such as popularity, spatiality, structuralism, decorativeness, and mobility, which were then expressed in modern fashion elaborated below. This study intends to reconstruct the meaning of Russian formalism and reflect it on fashion; thereby reconsidering the characteristics and the meaning of Russian constructivism in the context of today's fashion. This will broaden the meaning of constructivism and suggest a new direction for modern fashion.

• Steel and Composite Structures
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• v.22 no.6
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• pp.1337-1358
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• 2016

The current study focuses on the assessment and interface response of reinforced concrete elements with composite materials (carbon fiber reinforced polymers-CFRPs, glass fiber reinforced polymers-GFRPs, textile reinforced mortars-TRM's, near surface mounted bars-NSMs). A description of the transfer mechanisms from concrete elements to the strengthening materials is conducted through analytical models based on failure modes: plate end interfacial debonding and intermediate flexural crack induced interfacial debonding. A database of 55 in total reinforced concrete columns (scale 1:1) is assembled containing elements rehabilitated with various techniques (29 wrapped with CFRP's, 5 wrapped with GFRP's, 4 containing NSM and 4 strengthened with TRM). The failure modes are discussed together with the performance level of each technique as well as the efficiency level in terms of ductility and bearing/ bending capacity. The analytical models' results are in acceptable agreement with the experimental data and can predict the failure modes. Despite the heterogeneity of the elements contained in the aforementioned database the results are of high interest and point out the need to incorporate the analytical expressions in design codes in order to predict the failure mechanisms and the limit states of bearing capacities of each technique.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.20-28
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• 1998

Natural indigo colorants were prepared by extraction of polygonum tintorium which was harvested just in the blooming season(in the late of July). The components were analyzed by TLC and HPLC, and its structures were analyzed by FT-IR, EI-mass and NMR. The dyeing mechanism and fermentation conditions were investigated. Its colour fastness was studied as well. The results obtained are summarized as follows ; The natural indigo powder was dissolved in DMSO and developed in eluent, $CHCl_3/CH_3CN(8.5:1.5v/v)$ by means of TLC for its quality analysis. It was segregated into indirubin as il red colour and indigo as a blue colour. In case of HPLC analysis, the retention times of indirubin and indigo were 7.442 and 6.543, respectively. FT-IR spectrum of indirubin showed a peak for NH residue between 3200 and $3300cm^{-1}.^1H-NMR$ spectrum for indigo displayed AA'BB' spin system caused by indole structure between 6.5 and 7.7ppm of H4, 5, 6 and 7, and -NH proton for indirubin showed an singlet between 10.88 and. 11.0ppm. EI-mass spectrum of indigo an d indirubin both disclosed their molecular size as 262 and it implies that these two substances are isomer.

• Journal of Korean Society for Quality Management
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• v.49 no.4
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• pp.641-654
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• 2021

Purpose: One distinctive trend in the recent industrial and technological development has been the change in the structures of industries brought by information technology, boosting the productivity of different sectors. This relation has clearly opened a path for the fourth industrial revolution to reform numerous industrial sectors, including i-fashion sectors. Therefore, in this research, we would like to present the direction of the direction policy for the fusion of the manufacturing industry and the service industry of i-fashion. Methods: In this study, an empirical time series data analysis of machinery investment efficiency and capital investment efficiency of 43 industrial sectors in manufacturing and service was conducted to show their potential and ongoing convergence toward i-fashion. Results: Most impressive as a finding in this research was that those sectors previously underinvested due to a combination of technological and financial reasons found an exit for growth. In textile and apparel sectors, that could be the i-fashion. Conclusion: One strong implication of this study is that sectoral level convergence based on technology and industry is occurring, and i-fashion is one of the industrial convergence case to be observed.