• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.286-294
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• 2007

Dolbok, the first birthday suit, is a formal suit a person puts on for the first time after birth. It not only a symbolizes of Korean customs or traditions, but also represents transmitted ideas, values and lifestyles of Koreans. In this nation where strong preferences for son prevailed, dolbok for boy was specially important. 1.Styles of weaing Dolbok are classfied into trousers and jeogori, baeja, magoja, durumagi, jeonbok, sagyusam and yongpo styles in accordance with what kind of clothes was finally worn. 2. Accessories of dolbok for boys included dolddi, dol jumeoni, gulre, bokgeon, hogeon and tarae baeseon. 3. Dolbok of trousers and jeogori, baeja or magoja style simply consisted of 2 to 4 units of clothes. It was usually worn by ordinary people, and strongly imaged as common. Dolbok of durumagi or jeonbok style was a combination of 5 to 6 units of clothes and mainly worn by noble and royal families. It was remarkably formal, but quite brilliant. The suit for first birth anniversary which was sagyusam or yongpo was made in accordance with court rules and used by the royal family, It consisted of 7 to 8 units of clothes. Dolbok of sagyusam or yongpo style used invariable, simple patterns and colors, but had strong images of courtesy and dignity. 4. Regarding accessories of dolbok, the long-hanged goreum was a symbol of parental wishes for the $baby^{\circ}{\emptyset}s$ health and longevity and dolddi was joined by dol jumeonisymbolizing the wealth and prosperity of the baby. In addition, hogeon was a hat whose shape was the head of tiger symbolizing wishes for bravery and health and tarae beoseon was childlen's socks that had seams, symbolizing prosperity, on the fore edge. Seon for sagyusam was used as a symbol of preventing diseases or evil spirits to protect the health of the baby.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.452-460
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• 2013

This study conducted a performance evaluation of protective clothing materials used for welding in a hazardous shipbuilding industry work environment. The welding process was selected as the one that most requires industrial protective clothing according to work environment characteristics. Flame proofing and convection heat protection performance (HTI) in the heat transfer characteristics of protective clothing material were indicated in the order of SW1(Oxidant carbon)>SW2(silica coated Oxidant carbon)>SW4(Oxidant carbon/p-aramid)>SW3(flame proofing cotton). However, radiant heat protection performance (RHTI) and the heat transfer factor (TF) were indicated in the order of SW1>SW4>SW2>SW3 and showed different patterns from the convection heat protection performance. SW1 showed superior air permeability and water vapor permeability. The tensile strength and tear strength of welding protective clothing material were indicated in the order of SW4>SW2>SW3>SW1 and showed that a blend fabric of p-aramid was the most superior for the mechanical properties of SW4. SW1 had excellent heat transfer properties in yet met the minimum performance requirements of tensile strength proved to be inappropriate as being a material for welding protective clothing. The abrasion resistance of woven fabric proved superior compared to nonwoven fabric; however, seam strength and dimensional change both met the minimum performance requirements and indicated that all samples appeared non-hazardous. Finally, oxidant carbon/p-aramid blend fabric appeared appropriate as a protective clothing materials for welding.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.423-429
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• 2013

This study helps out-size consumers purchase tops and improve the fitness of unde-weight women in their 20s-30s and by the establishment of a size system. The criteria for subjects in this study were those under 18.5($kg/m^2$) of the BMI; subsequently, a total of 233 females were enrolled. The results were: First, the nominal size for female adult formal dress suggested by the KS standard is suggested in 20 sections. The sections for underweight women are 7, (34 women who accounted for 14.59% out of 233 in total). The cover efficiency was 2.08% (which was very low). Second, tests showed that the average difference between the reference part body size of 7 sections for underweight women in the normal size section of bust cir.- hip cir.- height, and KS standard, waist cir. among reference sizes was rather small in the case of a nominal size for long height. Therefore, there is a significant difference with size in the KS standard and a sizing system proven improper for underweight woman. Third, the basic body sizes and reference body sizes were different due to the size system establishment according to measurements of underweight subjects. The research findings suggest that it is necessary to understand underweight types according to bust girth and hip girth sizes that represent basic sizes as well as to design patterns that consider the underweight body shape characteristics when women's tops are designed.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.694-703
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• 2013

A variable dress design can be an alternative to satisfy a consumer need for diverse expression and self-realization at a lower cost factor. In the area of wedding dress, the change in the trend of wedding culture (which tends to demand more units of wedding dress) makes the cost factor more important in the purchase selection. A variable design has a clear advantage for wedding dresses and the wedding industry. This is the first research on a variable design that focuses on wedding dresses. This research develops a variable wedding design which respects consumer preferences independent of a variable wedding dress design that presents a new shape of silhouette or the development ofa new wedding dress materials. A survey on the supply side was conducted to examine market preferences by first browsing the Naver portal site and then checking the websites of major wedding dress suppliers. A questionnaire survey was conducted with a sample of 348 brides-to-be that inquired on wedding dress selection factors and purchase patterns. The survey shows that consumers prefer mermaid and A-line silhouettes, silk material, white-ivory color, and tube top necklines. The result conforms to the types commonly found in the designs of suppliers. We apply a detachable design to a basic mermaid silhouette and implemented change for 7 kinds of styles -based on the result of the survey. We suggest a variable wedding dress design as a new means to solve the cost concern and the customer need for diverse expression. The research represents a new life style for wedding culture and facilitates the development of the wedding industry.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.6
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• pp.1085-1099
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• 2016

This article is designed to establish fundamental design criterion for theme park cast costumes in accordance with play type and space. There is an understanding that theme parks act as a play space that is designed to meet diverse playing desires. To analyze cast costumes, the theme park - 'Everland' in South Korea as an example, area was divided into attraction space and non-attraction space. Attraction space is mainly for full-scale play content areas and the non-attraction space is to enforce the attraction space experience. Roger Caillois's play theory states that there are 4 play types; Illinx, Mimicry, $Ag{\hat{o}}n$, and Alea. All 4 play types were shown through attraction and Mimicry at non-attraction. Each cast costume was analyzed in terms of apparel design elements - silhouette, textile, color, detail, and props - related to play type facility and cast role. Criteria for theme park cast costume designs were suggested based on the results. Illinx cast members who fulfill a safety-checking role wear high chroma warm color costumes with the accent on details in bodice cutting lines, collar edges, pockets, buttons and decorative ornaments. A complementary contrast is also used. The guidance cast in Illinx may wear a suit in bright/vivid color. Mimicry guidance cast costumes show meticulous perfection in imitation with the figure in its space. From head to toe, color, textile, and silhouette - every detail and even props should match the character. $Ag{\hat{o}}n$ cast costumes are strictly limited in detail and decorative ornament usage as well as in color, since they are in charge of the management and operation of a competition. Alea cast's role is a self-demonstrator. Alea cast members should be a real tarot card reader. However, a manual should control their costumes. A total of 10 cast roles at a non-attraction space should be designed to show job patterns clearly in accordance with the whole theme at the park.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.179-188
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• 2019

Domestic apparel products labeled as 'Made in Korea' in the Chinese market are recognized as a high quality products due to the influence of the Korean Wave (Intergen Consulting Group, 2007). This study analyzes the patterns and order arrangement types of a fashion brand company commissioned to produce apparel in Seoul, Korea in order to rebuild a network of small sewing factories scattered in Korea, reorganize operations, and to find the possibility of regenerating the Korean sewing industry by establishing contact points with domestic sewing factories. We surveyed 100 apparel brand companies in Seoul listed in the 2014/2015 Korea Fashion Brand Annual (Apparel News, 2014) and conducted a questionnaire survey on the company's general management status, type of fabric materials dealt with, and major contact points and methods of production handling. The frequency analysis indicated that the main production material with cloth type was woven fabric with ladies' clothes. The Planning MD team has the highest rate of ordering production with delivery method to the production factory after purchasing fabric and trims. Most respondents answered that they would select a production factory based on recommendations from acquaintances. This was due to a lack of no objective indicator provided by the sewing factory at present and the absence of objectively proceeded communication with brand companies. In this study, we analyze various conditions and measurements for production arrangements from a fashion brand company to revitalize sewing factories in Korea.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.43 no.4
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• pp.579-591
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• 2019

This research investigated the needs analysis on consumers of fine dust masks to effectively develop a design prototype. Data were collected through focus group interviews on 32 individuals who have used fine dust masks. As a result, there is a new demand by consumers for technology based design changes that better fit the nose and face. Consumers preferred the smell and feel of traditional Korean paper. Young adults expressed the importance of masks that can be used for protection as well as fashion. The prototype improved the drawbacks of existing models using an origami-inspired design in a variety of colors, patterns and in sizes that are customized to fit the wearer. The proposed prototype is made of Dak felt fibers and jersey materials. It is characterized by downward-facing ear bands made of polyurethane to improve the fit around the ears and chin to more effectively block incoming air. The mask is foldable and has a crease that goes along the chin to increase the amount of enclosed space against the face making it easier to breathe compared to existing mask designs.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.13-26
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• 2019

In this study, Western-style first birthday clothing for girls from online shopping malls was explored. Specifically, clothing types, forms, colors, textiles, prints/patterns, and trimmings were examined. Using the keyword dol bok (meaning "first birthday clothing") and the search engines Naver and Daum, online shopping malls that sell or rent Western-style first birthday clothing for girls were found. From 15 online shopping malls, 317 dresses, 76 outers, and 69 bonnets were analyzed. The one-piece dress was the main item of Western-style first birthday clothing for girls. Most first birthday dresses were white or ivory in terms of color; other common features were the bell silhouette, a high waistline, a midi- or knee-length skirt with multiple layers, and bow trimming. The upper bodices of dresses featured round necklines without collars and sleeves, and the main textiles used for dresses were satin, lace, organza, and tulle. Two main types of outers were jackets and capes. Most outers were white or ivory and waist-length or shorter, with elbow-length or longer sleeves. Outers were typically made of fur, satin, and lace. Most bonnets were also white or ivory in color, made of satin and lace, and decorated with ribbon ties and frills/ruffles. Because a precedent study indicates that a monochromatic color scheme was the least favorite and that consumers want a proper fit and length-adjustable design, conclusions of this study point to the need for color diversification; color combinations for two-piece dresses, outers, and accessories; and lacing or shoulder snaps instead of zippers.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.781-789
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• 2021

To enhance the design and comfort of waist-protection corsets, this study analyzed the product characteristics of five types of posture-correction corsets that are available commercially. Additionally, subjective evaluation of the corsets was conducted on women aged 20 to 60 years, in terms of design, material preference, fit, comfort, degree of correction, freedom of movement, tightness, and convenience of front fastening. Following product analysis, the five corset types were divided into: two soft, one semi-hard, and two hard types in terms of the degree of elongation. As a result of pattern analysis, the soft type was designed to improve fit by reflecting the body curvature, whereas the semi-hard and hard types were relatively flat. Through the wearing sensation assessment, the hard type manufactured by company S was the best in terms of design, material, fit, comfort, correction degree, and freedom of movement. The soft type was average in design, material, and fit while relatively poor in the correction degree and tightness. The results indicated that soft materials, flexible bones with appropriate tension, patterns designed to snugly fit the body with large curvature at the top and bottom for better inflection, and adjustable support belts that can be double-fixed are crucial elements in improving the corset design to boost the comfort of wearing. These study results are helpful in the development of waist-protection corsets with excellent wearing comfort and design appreciated by customers.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.709-725
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• 2021

The study focused on the design features of Chanel and Fendi, directed by Carl Lagerfeld, creative director of Chanel and Fendi until his recent death. The range of the study was from the 2017 S/S Collection to the 2019 F/W Collection, which collected a total of 767 fashion photographs, including 483 Chanel, 284 Fendi, with tops, bottoms and dresses at VOGUE (https://www.vogue.com). According to the data analysis criteria organized based on prior research and related literature, it was classified in the order of form, color, material, pattern, decoration, fashion image, item and coordination, and content analysis was conducted based on statistical analysis. Overall, the design characteristics of the Chanel collection, directed by Karl Lagerfeld, were rectangle form, tone in tone coloring, combination of identical materials, geometric patterns, and classical images as the main design characteristics of the Chanel collection. The design characteristics shown in the Fendi collection directed by Karl Lagerfeld were rectangle form, tone in tone coloration, hard material combination, abstract pattern, and total coordination. Comparing the design features of Chanel and Fendi, directed by Karl Lagerfeld, is as follows. Chanel and Fendi's designs show a lot of rectangle form, tone-in-tone colors, hard-materials and combination of the same material.