• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.194-206
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• 2016

This study analyzed jackets by Alexander McQueen that have always pleased customers with traditional tailoring via every season's collection. This study categorized and then analyzed jackets by components such as silhouette, jacket length, collar, lapel, sleeve, shoulder line, and closure methods. To achieve the research goal, the study referred to photographs of 501 jackets introduced in signature brand collections by Alexander McQueen between 1996 and 2010. The analysis results on McQueen's jackets with the general components of the clothes indicated that the frequency of traditional tailoring components (such as lapels, tight sleeves, natural shoulder lines, and a button closing method) was higher than the frequency of designs of dramatic, deconstructive patterns examined by previously-conducted research. This shows that Alexander McQueen was cognizant to the responsibilities as a tailor and the basics of tailoring when developing jacket designs. This study also confirmed how McQueen enjoyed adding exaggerated jacket design components by making various use of details that emphasize drastic shapes like the hourglass silhouette, wing collar (that covers the shoulders), peaked lapel collar, kimono sleeve, bell sleeve, crescent shoulder, and pagoda shoulder.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.17-24
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• 2011

This study aims to provide basic materials for adaptive-clothing development for disabled seniors by considering the characteristics of design with both functionality and beauty, which is displayed to overseas functional clothing for disabled seniors. After 341 photographs from 15 overseas websites which sold adaptive-clothing for disabled seniors were collected, their designs were analyzed. The content analysis and frequency analysis using the descriptive statistics were performed as the analytical methods for this study. The results are as follows; first, the design of buttons uses snap fasteners, zippers, Velcro fasteners and rubber bands so as to attach easily and keep fasteners unseen. Second, the used open system is the Back open, the Side open, the Front open and the Hip open. Third, in terms of design, the change follows easy and loose silhouette in order to act comfortably outdoors as well as indoors by making the design of onepiece dresses, jackets and cardigans similar to ordinaries. From the details aspect, a few trimmings such as color, patterns, ruffles around edge, laces and smooth shirring do not stand in the way and give mental please.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.5
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• pp.650-656
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• 2010

To present a 6-piece baseball cap pattern with good wearing sensation and with good reflection of head shape, this study conducted direct measurement using martin's anthropometer and indirect measurement using surgical tape among women of 20 to 24 years old. For a crown, correlation analysis was carried out between direct measurements and surface shell measurements of each section on the head to set main items for prototype design, along with regression analysis to complete design formula; for a cap pattern, draping design was used on the finished crown to compete cap pattern design formula. The results showed that main measurement items to design a baseball cap included head circumstance and bitragion arc for a crown and the cephalic index for a cap. For the crown pattern reflecting the shape of the head, 6 pieces were designed with different sizes and types of front (F), side (S), and back (B) patterns; hemline was also designed diagonally and completed by reflecting the curve of the head.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.265-271
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• 2010

This study aims at academically organizing fashion coordination methods for interview image-making, which have been attempted through seminars in companies and universities, through empirical studies including previous studies and surveys conducted by groups of experts. The methods of this study include theoretical considerations through literature and empirical considerations such as one-to-one interviews and surveys of groups of experts in the areas of fashion and interview. Through these methods, this study examined elements of image-making characteristics of fashion for an interview, which are required for an interview, by investigating and analyzing interview image-making. As a result of the examination, the characteristics of proper clothes for an interview are as follows; Items of clothes: tailored, tuxedo, Chanel, Eton, blazer jackets, button-down and dress shirts, shirt waist, bow, Gibson blouses, tight, A-line, gored, pleats, flared skirts and straight, boot-cut and ankle pants. Color: achromatic colors including white, gray, black, navy, pink and yellow. Patterns: solid, stripe, and basket check.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.257-264
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• 2010

In the modern Society, the human's way of thinking as well as the new cultural creation has been changing by bringing on a change rapidly. The moderns are demanding humanity and the new cultural cretion through the exchange between the old things and new things by setting material before everything else. The latest trends of today had an effect on the fashion Illustration, a new art category, which gives a new image. This report of research has a purpose which expresses korean images by connecting the korean tradition style to the modern fashion. And we are concerned about the national culture and tradition with the international stream. For this reason I studied these for the purpose of expanding expression area of sewing techniques by applying to fashion Illustration expressing handcraft techniques by natural beauty improving the modern and traditional images, updating, and succeeding to tradition. As the way of studying and contents, I referred to the inside and outside of the country's literatures, these, publications, magazines, or the internet sufing. Firstly, as the theoretical study, I studied a conception and history of the fashion Illustration. I studied the theoretical background of the sewing techniques through the histories, tools, and techniques. The theoretical background of the sewing handicraft is studied through the colors, patterns, materials and sorts. I also and indicated the various works by the domestic designers.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.325-335
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• 2013

This work develops a motif design integrated with geometrical patterns in traditional ddeoksal and that can be applied to a scarf design so that traditional elements unique to Korean culture can be developed further for a modern application to various design fields. For the research method, literature reviews on op art and traditional ddeoksal were conducted with Adobe Illustrator CS3 and Adobe Photoshop CS3. As for the motif combination, such applications were taken as five pieces from the works of Victor Vasarely and some traditional ddeoksal shapes such as oblique line pattern, taegeuk pattern, and geometrical pattern. Abstract and geometrical images were borrowed from op art and ddeoksal for image expression. The total number of works selected was eleven. To realize the applied scarf design, a motif layout was performed with the scarf center or rim highlighted so that each design feature could be remarkable based on the motif combination. With the function of scaling, rotation, opacity control, filtering effect, the changed images were shown through motif distortion. In addition, this work applies a single combined motif to products for a possible transformation into handkerchiefs and boutique scarfs in the case of smaller sized scarfs.

• International Journal of Aeronautical and Space Sciences
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.436-449
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• 2017

In this paper, the damage and failure behavior of triaxially braided textile composites was studied using progressive failure analysis. The analysis was performed at both micro and meso-scales through iterative cycles. Stress based failure criteria were used to define the failure states at both micro- and meso-scale models. The stress-strain curve under uniaxial tensile loading was drawn based on the load-displacement curve from the progressive failure analysis and compared to those by test and computational results from reference for verification. Then, the detailed failure initiation and propagation was studied using the verified model for both tensile and compression loading cases. The failure modes of each part of the model were assessed at different stages of failure. Effect of ply stacking and number of unit cells considered were then investigated using the resulting stress-strain curves and damage patterns. Finally, the effect of matrix plasticity was examined for the compressive failure behavior of the same model using elastic, elastic - perfectly plastic and multi-linear elastic-plastic matrix properties.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.390-400
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• 2019

A major factor in making current hospital gowns is how to manage patients from the standpoint of hospitals. This shows that hospital gowns have not been considered as an apparel for a specific purpose with a design that considers the psychological composure of patients. This study, along with a meticulous analysis of the pattern design of domestic hospital gown suggests a design philosophy that can be of emotional help to patients. The analysis of hospital gowns in terms of motif is that the corporate identity of the hospital in question, along with the lettering symbolizing the hospital is conspicuous. The motif shown in the pattern also has a brightness contrast and two-way pattern. This study suggests hospital gown patterns as follows. First, on the basis of color dynamics, utilize repetition arrangement, camaieu arrangement and faux camaieu arrangement. Second, make use of warm colors in order to enhance trust between patients and medical staff. Last, use green color as a dominant color for the hospital to be felt of as a convenient space. Utilizing these three factors in the future design of hospital gowns will assist in the development of new hospital gowns that render a psychological composure.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.677-686
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• 2019

This study helps out-size consumers purchase ready-made clothes and improve fitness by classifying the lower bodies of abdomen-obese adult males in their 20s and older; in addition, it creates a size system based on each size interval of obesity type. The criteria for the 559 male subjects surveyed in this study were over $25kg/m^2$ of BMI, over 90 cm of waist, and over 0.85 waist hip ratio. The results are as follows. First, the higher the age group, the higher the degree of abdominal obesity in each age group. The degree of obesity then decreases somewhat as their age increases; however, the risk of abdominal obesity also increases. Second, 3 clusters were categorized by cluster analysis, into abdominal obesity, larger oval-type, trapezoid-type and small cylinder-type. Third, the size system establishment according to lower-body types resulted in basic body sizes and reference body sizes being different according to types even in commonly-appeared size names in the sections of respective types. The above research findings show it is necessary to understand obesity types according to waist and hip sizes that represent basic sizes and to design patterns in consideration of the characteristics of obese body shapes when lower-half body clothes are designed among obesity groups.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.27-35
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• 2019

Fashion Influencer of Instagram get a lot of attention from the public, and they play a major role in shaping peoples' taste. This study attempts to analyze the fashion design of fashion influencer in Instagram. The data was collected from Apr. 15th to April 30th, 2017, and the pictures were collected from May, 2016 to April, 2017. Total of 460 pictures were collected based on the number of "likes". The method of study was content analysis and the cross tabulation analysis and frequency using SPSS Statics 24 Based on the above results, influencers were mostly models that have many "likes" on their photos. Many of influencers were wearing black, white, or blue dresses that do not have any patterns. Many others were wearing indigo, black, or white jeans with T-shirts. In summary of the above contents, influencer also found out that the materials of their clothes were both hard and soft, and that the casual style was the most popular among influencer, and that influencer also liked elegant, modern, mannish, or sexy looks. Therefore, through this study, it was found that the fashion design of influencer had a unique fashion image. Gigi Hadid, Kendall Jenner, and Blake Lively are the representative influencers of fashion instagram. Gigi Hadid was a casual and manish image, Kendall Jenner was a casual and sexy image, and Blake Lively was an elegant image.