• Title/Summary/Keyword: Textile and fashion department

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Retail Product Development and Brand Management Collaboration between Industry and University Student Teams (산업여대학학생단대지간적령수산품개발화품패관리협작(产业与大学学生团队之间的零售产品开发和品牌管理协作))

  • Carroll, Katherine Emma
    • Journal of Global Scholars of Marketing Science
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    • v.20 no.3
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    • pp.239-248
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    • 2010
  • This paper describes a collaborative project between academia and industry which focused on improving the marketing and product development strategies for two private label apparel brands of a large regional department store chain in the southeastern United States. The goal of the project was to revitalize product lines of the two brands by incorporating student ideas for new solutions, thereby giving the students practical experience with a real-life industry situation. There were a number of key players involved in the project. A privately-owned department store chain based in the southeastern United States which was seeking an academic partner had recognized a need to update two existing private label brands. They targeted middle-aged consumers looking for casual, moderately priced merchandise. The company was seeking to change direction with both packaging and presentation, and possibly product design. The branding and product development divisions of the company contacted professors in an academic department of a large southeastern state university. Two of the professors agreed that the task would be a good fit for their classes - one was a junior-level Intermediate Brand Management class; the other was a senior-level Fashion Product Development class. The professors felt that by working collaboratively on the project, students would be exposed to a real world scenario, within the security of an academic learning environment. Collaboration within an interdisciplinary team has the advantage of providing experiences and resources beyond the capabilities of a single student and adds "brainpower" to problem-solving processes (Lowman 2000). This goal of improving the capabilities of students directed the instructors in each class to form interdisciplinary teams between the Branding and Product Development classes. In addition, many universities are employing industry partnerships in research and teaching, where collaboration within temporal (semester) and physical (classroom/lab) constraints help to increase students' knowledge and experience of a real-world situation. At the University of Tennessee, the Center of Industrial Services and UT-Knoxville's College of Engineering worked with a company to develop design improvements in its U.S. operations. In this study, Because should be lower case b with a private label retail brand, Wickett, Gaskill and Damhorst's (1999) revised Retail Apparel Product Development Model was used by the product development and brand management teams. This framework was chosen because it addresses apparel product development from the concept to the retail stage. Two classes were involved in this project: a junior level Brand Management class and a senior level Fashion Product Development class. Seven teams were formed which included four students from Brand Management and two students from Product Development. The classes were taught the same semester, but not at the same time. At the beginning of the semester, each class was introduced to the industry partner and given the problem. Half the teams were assigned to the men's brand and half to the women's brand. The teams were responsible for devising approaches to the problem, formulating a timeline for their work, staying in touch with industry representatives and making sure that each member of the team contributed in a positive way. The objective for the teams was to plan, develop, and present a product line using merchandising processes (following the Wickett, Gaskill and Damhorst model) and develop new branding strategies for the proposed lines. The teams performed trend, color, fabrication and target market research; developed sketches for a line; edited the sketches and presented their line plans; wrote specifications; fitted prototypes on fit models, and developed final production samples for presentation to industry. The branding students developed a SWOT analysis, a Brand Measurement report, a mind-map for the brands and a fully integrated Marketing Report which was presented alongside the ideas for the new lines. In future if the opportunity arises to work in this collaborative way with an existing company who wishes to look both at branding and product development strategies, classes will be scheduled at the same time so that students have more time to meet and discuss timelines and assigned tasks. As it was, student groups had to meet outside of each class time and this proved to be a challenging though not uncommon part of teamwork (Pfaff and Huddleston, 2003). Although the logistics of this exercise were time-consuming to set up and administer, professors felt that the benefits to students were multiple. The most important benefit, according to student feedback from both classes, was the opportunity to work with industry professionals, follow their process, and see the results of their work evaluated by the people who made the decisions at the company level. Faculty members were grateful to have a "real-world" case to work with in the classroom to provide focus. Creative ideas and strategies were traded as plans were made, extending and strengthening the departmental links be tween the branding and product development areas. By working not only with students coming from a different knowledge base, but also having to keep in contact with the industry partner and follow the framework and timeline of industry practice, student teams were challenged to produce excellent and innovative work under new circumstances. Working on the product development and branding for "real-life" brands that are struggling gave students an opportunity to see how closely their coursework ties in with the real-world and how creativity, collaboration and flexibility are necessary components of both the design and business aspects of company operations. Industry personnel were impressed by (a) the level and depth of knowledge and execution in the student projects, and (b) the creativity of new ideas for the brands.

Assessment of Wicking and Fast Dry Properties According to Moisture Transport Measurement Method of Knit and Woven Fabrics for Garment (의류소재용 직·편물의 수분이동 특성 측정 방법에 따른 흡한속건성 평가)

  • Kim, Hyun-ah;Kim, Seung-jin
    • Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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    • v.20 no.2
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    • pp.117-126
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    • 2017
  • In this study, moisture transport characteristics for the woven and knitted fabrics made of 8 kinds of fiber materials using MMT (moisture management tester) were measured and discussed with the Bireck bt MMT and water evaporating rate (WER) measuring methods, which are vertical moisture transport methods. In addition, the drying property by MMT of the eight kinds of specimens was compared and discussed with the results measured by the vertical drying measurement. MMT experimental result which is horizental moisture transport appeared to be similar to the result of the Bireck method, which is the vertical moisture transport experiment. Absortion time measured from drip method of the fabrics made of the bamboo, linen, and cotton/nylon composite fabrics was short and thus they showed best wicking property, which was attributed to the low contact angle on the fabric surface and high porosity of the fabrics due to the staple yarn structure composed of the hydrophilic staple fibers. In drying property of the fabric specimens by MMT, maximum absorption radius of the dry-zone knit and bamboo woven fabrics were the highest and they showed the best drying property, which was a little different result compared with vertical drying measurement method. Half time of the drying rate in the MMT method was highly correlated with the fabric thickness and saturated moisture absortion rate and their regression coefficients were 0.9 and 0.88, respectively. This means that the knitted and woven fabric design technology for retaining good wicking and drying properties of the fabrics with thin fabric thickness is very important for obtaining high functional wear comfort fabrics. In addition, wicking and drying properties of the fabrics made of different fiber materials and with different yarns and fabric structures showed different results according to the measuring methods.

The Effect of Fixing Agents and Softner on Sericin Fixation of Trimethylolmelamine (트리메틸올멜라민의 세리신 정착에 있어 정착제와 유연제의 영향)

  • Park, Geon-Yong
    • Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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    • v.18 no.5
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    • pp.93-98
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    • 2017
  • The fixing behaviors of raw silk yarns treated with melamine and formaldehyde at a molar ratio of 1:3 for trimethylolmelamine were investigated. Sericin was fixed during the fixing process, but a part of sericin I was removed simultaneously by hot water. The weight losses by fixing and the degumming losses by degumming greatly decreased with increasing concentrations of melamine and formaldehyde. The silk yarns fixed with 0.011 M melamine and 0.033M formaldehyde were significantly degummed due to the insufficient fixation of sericin and the alkaline hydrolysis of sericin by sodium carbonate during the degumming process. On the other hand, the silk yarns fixed with 0.055M melamine and 0.165M formaldehyde were degummed slightly (the degumming losses of 3-8%) due to the strong fixation of sericin, which might result from the many cross-linkages between the sericin I molecules, which were formed by trimethylolmelamine. Those fixed with the fixing solution containing 15% owf softener showed the lowest weight and degumming losses because under the condition of 15% owf softener, the cation of the softener can effectively form ionic bonds with the negatively charged side chain of aspartic acid in sericin. In addition, van der Waals' forces may be also formed between the hydrophobic tail of the softener and the hydrophobic region of sericin, which may help inhibit the removal of sericin I.

Oil Absorptive Properties of Polypropylene Knit Fabric Treated with Oleophilic Acrylic Resin (친유성 아크릴 수지로 처리된 폴리프로필렌 편직물의 유흡착 성질)

  • Jeong, Hwa-Jin
    • Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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    • v.17 no.2
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    • pp.528-535
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    • 2016
  • Two types of oleophilic acrylic prepolymers were prepared by the solution copolymerization of either ethyl acrylate (EA) or lauryl acrylate (LA) with hydroxy ethyl acrylate (HEA). For the formation of oil-absorbent materials, a mixed solution of the prepolymer and hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI) as a cross-linker in toluene was applied to polypropylene knit velvet fabric through the conventional pad-dry-cure procedure. The gel fraction of the crosslinked resin, EA-HEA-HDI, increased with increasing feed ratio of HEA to total acrylate or HDI concentration. The oil absorbancy and retention ratio of the prepared materials were compared according to the add-on ratio of resin to fabric, and were assessed with n-decane, toluene, soybean oil, lubricant and bunker C oil as test oils. The optimal oil absorbancy of the materials were observed at around 6% of the add-on ratio for all these oils except for soybean oil. On the other hand, the oil retention ratio increased as the add-on ratio increased. Futhermore, heavier and more viscous oil generally showed higher oil retention ratios. In addition, the oil absorbancy of the materials treated with LA-HEA-HDI resin was higher than that treated with EA-HEA-HDI resin, which showed that the acrylic resins are more absorptive with increasing length of their side alkyl chain.

Creation of the Fashion Design from Pot Art Image (팝아트 이미지의 의상 디자인 창작)

  • Lee, in-Seong
    • Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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    • v.38 no.12
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    • pp.257-269
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    • 2000
  • 예술작품은 의상디자인에 영감 혹은 영향을 줌으로써 상업적 의상으로 재생산된다. 오늘날까지도 60년대의 많은 팝 아티스트 작품들이 그대로 T셔츠 등에 프린트되는 것을 쉽게 볼 수 있다. 이러한 직접적 영향에는 자주 맹목적 표절이라는 논란을 불러 일으켰으나 긍정적이든 부정적이든 예술작품과 의상 디자인은 20세기초부터 밀접한 관계를 가져왔다. Sonia Delaunay는 예술을 대중과 결합시키는 가장 좋은 방법은 의상을 통해서라고 생각하였다. 그녀는 "만일 예술작품을 생활 속에 들어가게 하려면 그건 여성들 자신이 입고 다니는 방법뿐이다". 라고 말하였다. 결국 이러한 예술의 대중화에 대한 이론은 60년대에 와서 팝 아트 패션의 출현으로 그 결실을 보게 된다. 상류층을 대상으로 한 의상이 대중화되는 과정에서 60년대 경제호황으로 인한 젊은이들의 소비자층 형성과 미술양식에서의 팝아트의 출현은 자연스러운 시대적 조류로 나타났다. 이러한 상황은 팝 아트가 이 시대의 미술 양식에 혁신적일 뿐 아니라, 사회 전반에 팝 아트의 특성(소비 문화적, 대중 문화적, 재현적, 통속적, 기계적, 획일적)을 유행시키고, 대중에게 순수 예술과 복식에 참여 할 수 있는 기회를 부여했다고 볼 수 있다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 가장 혁명적이고도 대중적이라고 할 수 있는 팝 아트 이미지의 작품 제작과 분석을 통하여 현재 논의되고 있는 전시회나 패션쇼에서만 볼 수 있다는 다소 아방가르드 적인 의상 작품들의 대중화 방안에 대한 해결책을 모색하고자 하였다. 실제 의상 디자인 창작에 초점을 맞추었으며, 제작을 위해서 팝 아트에서 주요 소재로 삼았고 대중적 이미지의 심볼이라고도 할 수 있는 Coca Cola label을 표현 모티브로 삼아 개성적이고도 독창적인 의상 디자인을 한 후 분석하였다. 또한 독특한 의상 표현의 개발을 위하여 표현 기법으로는 현대 미술에서 새로운 재료와 여러 가지 재료를 화면에 도입시키는 표현 방법으로서 사용된 콜라주 기법을 사용하였다. 본 연구를 통하여 의상 창작에 있어 조형예술과 연결하여 대중적인 이미지를 도입함으로써 착용자가 예술에 대한 친근하고 익숙한 느낌을 갖게 하며, 예술과 상품 그 자체에 대한 상업적 홍보 목적으로도 사용할 수 있으며, 대중적인 이미지를 표현함에 있어 콜라주 기법은 염색 기법을 사용하지 않고서도 작가가 원하는 표현 효과를 낼 수 있다는 측면을 발견할 수 있었다. 즉 사용된 대중적 상표 이미지는 주인에서 흔히 볼 수 있는 현대 도시의 인공적 환경들로, 의상을 독특하고 개성 있게 표현할 수 있는 모티브의 역할을 하면서 또한 그 예가 무한하여 다양한 디자인 창출의 가능성을 갖고 있으며, 의상을 통해 예술과 대중을 융합시켰다는 예술의 대중화, 민주화라는 중요한 역할을 하였다. 전시회나 패션쇼에서 만 볼 수 있는 예술적 성격을 띠는 아방가르드 작품의 대중 확산 방법으로 제시될 수 있는 이상적인 방법으로는 예술성이 짙은 도저히 입을 수 없다고 생각되어지는 아방가르드한 의상을 일반 대중 브랜드들이 단순한 모방이 아닌 새로운 패러디 작업으로 일반화시켜 상업성을 띤 의상으로 재조정되어 여성들의 몸에 걸치게 하는 것이다. 이와 같은 순환으로써, 조형예술 작품은 의상 디자인 참작에 영향, 영감을 주면서 여러 번의 형태 변화를 거치는 패러디를 통해 각 계층의 누구나가 좋아하고 접할 수 있는 또 다른 창조를 맞아 대중의 손까지 갈 수 있는 것이다.

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