• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제14권2호
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• pp.211-221
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• 2012

The word 'chintz' is thought to be a corruption of spotted cloth. Printing remained a relatively primitive method of decorating textiles in Europe until the second half of the 17th century. The formation of the English East India Company sparked the influx into the West of painted and printed Indian cotton textiles. A William Sherwin took out the first English patent in 1676. The earlist European designs were florals in the Indian manner. Patterns of European flowers returned to England as birds, flowers, trees, vines and stained glass for Victorian chintz. In France, the original and most successsful manufacturer of the distinctive printed fabrics from Jouy was Christophe Philippe Oberkampf. Copperplate printing was introduced to Jouy in 1770, probably reaching the pinnacle of achievement in the craft after 1783 when Jean-Baptiste Huet became chief designer. Huet's style was widely imitated in France and abroad, and the term 'toile de Jouy' has come to be universally applied to monochrome figurative designs wherever and by whomsoever they were produced. Oberkampf served his apprenticeship as an engraver with some leading manufacturers, including a period in Mulhouse. In Alsace, which was not part of France until 1798, the first factory had opened in 1746 in Mulhouse, and the area soon had the largest number of print-works in France.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.81-88
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• 2007

This study aimed to develop priorities alternatives based on relative rather than absolute assignments on clothing evaluative criteria. The relative comparison approach includes much redundancy and is thus less sensitive to judgemental errors common to techniques using absolute assignments. By deriving evaluative criteria for consumers in choosing clothing, and considering their relative important or value in the priority of evaluation elements. When the consumer selects clothing, it requires multi-criteria decision making exercise and needs to make trade-offs between different alternatives. With an application of the AHP's hierarchical structuring and pair-wise comparisons, this study will determine the weight and priorities of evaluation factor in clothing evaluative criteria in choosing cloth, which will eventually lead to improve management. Items for the setting priority were decided as 'symbol', 'practicality', 'economy', 'vogue', and 'aesthetic' by council. The data for this research were collected from respondents of 108 females in Busan. Data were analyzed by frequency and AHP. As the results, 'economy' was decided as a most important item. And 'a fashionable color' evaluated as that of first priority in the totality evaluation elements.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제6권4호
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• pp.433-439
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• 2004

Hanji costumes has four aspects that allow the creator or artist to create many variations. The pictorial effects of Hanji costumes are produced through variations in the dyes and brushes used for its application. The amount of water and texture of the Hanji mixture also influences the Hanji clothing. This effect was expressed using a dry brush technique, a dripping technique, India inks, and fragments from other Hanji works. A second aspect of Hanji clothing is the coloring effect in the Hanji costumes. The coloring is due to the fibers in the preparation mixture and the uniqueness of the dyes. The Hanji clothing was dyed various colors and patterns by dip dyeing, block dyeing, silk screens, digital printing. The third aspect of Hanji imagination in clothing is the decorative details. The details in Hanji clothing can be seen using frills, pleats, tucks and ribbons. The last variation of Hanji clothing can be expressed through crafting techniques. These techniques are the quality of paper string, cuts in the paper and paste ingredients. With Hanji cloth, it is possible to plait, roll, and crample into other flexible & useful materials.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제5권1호
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• pp.17-24
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• 2003

Objet, which showed up with the art of 20C, is now an important element giving a creative idea to fashion designers in modern times. The purpose of the study is to review how the objet technique was paid attention and recreated in the fashion, through the analysis of works, and the formative features of each technique for fashion, in order to identify the connection of arts and fashion, and the position of fashion as art. The techniques using object appeared in the 20th century fashion are as follows: First, papier-colle, which is adding printed materials onto the surface, is such a technique that adds cut-feeling materials to impose a new texture, or arrange again the cloth-cuts to create a different clothing from the existing one, which went to the extension of materials in the fashion. Second, collage of daily materials expresses directly and emotionally through direct presentation of the objets. Especially, collage of patch-work is reproduced into a new fabric depending on the objet used, giving a standing over the form. Third, ready-made which presents the material meaning only of the objet expands the range of objets which could be used in the fashion by introducing the daily materials having a meaning itself as a fashion. Forth, an attempt to approach to the objets of popular image by designed techniques come out in modern fashion as a graffiti look or a typography look, making the clothing itself an objet to transmit a message directly to the masses. Introduction of various objets and development of expression technique brought out the diversification of materials, and enrichment and extension of expression sphere, which resultingly spreaded the freedom of expression and progressed into the art sphere, making a direct motif to solidify its standing as a formative art.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제8권5호
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• pp.537-544
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is as well as Body decoration is a means to identify self-expression from the original nature of an individual freedom and originality, so there remains a race has not a cloth on, but there is no race does not pierce, it has been done with the beginning of a mankind. Subjects for this study were 202 persons, who experienced body piercing with twenties as the central figure. Statistical analysis was done by using SPSS 10.0 version and included AVOVA, Cronbach ${\alpha}$ realbility, Multiple Regression Analysis, Duncan's multiple range test, and Cross tabulation analysis. The result are as follow, The difference of self-conception classified by body piercer's sex distinction did not show significantly. Of the body piercer's feeling of depression to a sex role, neuter gender's feeling of depression showed highly in case of the physical self and the moral self and in case of the social self neuter's feeling and feminine gender's feeling to a sex role showed high. For the reason why he/she did body piercing, neuter gender's feeling showed high in case of influenced by the fashion and masculine gender's and feminine gender's feeling showed high in case of influenced by the curiosity. The body decoration classified by self-conception of body piercer did not show a significant difference.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제20권4호
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• pp.175-186
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• 2018

These days, due to increased income levels, lower birthrate, and increased marriage age, interest and investment in children has increased, and infant & children's clothes has become more upgraded, differentiated, and diversified. In accordance with the change of the infant & children's clothes market, Examine the research trends of the papers in the journals. Used 'KISS', 'DBpia', 'Korea Institute of Science and Technology Information', in the search system, and 137 papers were searched for by using key word, 'infant's clothes' and 'children's clothes'. The year of publication is limited to 2001 to 2017, and they are classified into 5-year units and again the papers were classified by year, by journal, by field of clothing research (Technical Design & Production, Fashion Marketing, Textile System, Fashion Design), and frequency and percentage were used as data analysis. The number of articles related to infant & children's clothes increased such as 39 in 2001~2005, 43 in 2006~2010, and 55 in 2011~2017. The distribution of articles by journals has been published mainly in the journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, but as the journals were diversified, they were distributed evenly in other journals related to the apparel. In the presentations according to the research field by year, from 2001 to 2005, the ratio of apparel design and production was high, but since 2006, many papers related to fashion marketing and fashion design have been published. The research contents of the field of clothing research are as follows: 41 articles in design production field, focusing on dimensional system and pattern design, 40 articles in fashion design field, focusing on design development and design preferences, 46 articles in fashion marketing field, focusing on consumer behavior and marketing management. And 10 articles in apparel material system field, focusing on research on cloth science materials, but they are less well studied than others, but these studies should be actively pursued in the future.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제8권3호
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• pp.269-274
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to examine the costumes and trading goods of the Korean envoys in 1811. The findings of the study are as follows: The Korean envoys, as shown in literature, were dressed up three different types of costumes: Pyongbok, Gongbok, Jobok. They put on different kinds of clothes depending on the purpose of the events such as for ceremonial purpose or for traveling purpose. For traveling purpose, the envoys wore Pyongbok like Waryonggwan and Hakchangeui, which were commonly used as Pyeonbok in those times of Chosun era. For ceremonial purpose, they chose to wear Danryeong, Gongbok, Geumgwanjobok in this order following the order of the importance of the ceremony. The design of Jobok and Gongbok of Jeongsa and Busa were different from that of the early Chosun era. This difference in the Jobok and Gongbok demonstrates that Gwanbok has been transformed with the change in the general Po system in the late Chosun era. When the costumes of Korean envoys in 1811 were compared to those in 1711, there were similarities in terms of the design of Jobok and Gongbok, which indicated that little had changed for the period of 100 years. The most popular exchanged Byeolpok of Chosun was articles of clothing such as Daeyuja, Daedanja, Baekjeopo, Sangjeopo, and Baekmyeonju, while that of Japan was mostly objects of craftwork and a small amount of Po. The fact that cloth was one of the main items from the early Chosun era to the early 19C shows the highly developed clothing culture of Chosun era.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.151-162
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• 2012

The industry-wide development of digital technologies has also affected the textile and fashion industries immensely. The applications of 3D technology, virtual reality, and/or augmented reality systems have helped to create novel fashion brands based on the marriage of IT and textile/fashion industries. 3D digital virtual clothing systems have been developed to help the textile and fashion industries in terms of the planning, manufacturing, marketing and sales sectors. So far, most of the development effort for the 3d virtual clothing systems has been focused on the woven fabrics. The characteristics of woven fabrics differ from those of knitted fabric. Since the physical structures and mechanical properties of the knitted fabrics are definitely different from those of woven fabrics, the simulation process for the knitted fabrics should follow different approaches. The loops in a knitted fabric deform easily. The deformation results in a readily stretchable fabric appearance. Cloth simulation mostly employs models that approximate the mechanical properties of linear elastic planes. This simulation scheme does not, however, describe well enough the behavior of knitted fabrics, which deviate largely from the linear isotropic material characteristics. This study aims at characterizing the tensile deformation and surface textures of a knitted fabric product. Tensile deformation curves for the wale, course, and bias direction are analyzed. The surface texture of the knitted fabric is analyzed by using a 3-dimensional scanning device.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제21권2호
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• pp.179-188
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• 2019

Domestic apparel products labeled as 'Made in Korea' in the Chinese market are recognized as a high quality products due to the influence of the Korean Wave (Intergen Consulting Group, 2007). This study analyzes the patterns and order arrangement types of a fashion brand company commissioned to produce apparel in Seoul, Korea in order to rebuild a network of small sewing factories scattered in Korea, reorganize operations, and to find the possibility of regenerating the Korean sewing industry by establishing contact points with domestic sewing factories. We surveyed 100 apparel brand companies in Seoul listed in the 2014/2015 Korea Fashion Brand Annual (Apparel News, 2014) and conducted a questionnaire survey on the company's general management status, type of fabric materials dealt with, and major contact points and methods of production handling. The frequency analysis indicated that the main production material with cloth type was woven fabric with ladies' clothes. The Planning MD team has the highest rate of ordering production with delivery method to the production factory after purchasing fabric and trims. Most respondents answered that they would select a production factory based on recommendations from acquaintances. This was due to a lack of no objective indicator provided by the sewing factory at present and the absence of objectively proceeded communication with brand companies. In this study, we analyze various conditions and measurements for production arrangements from a fashion brand company to revitalize sewing factories in Korea.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제19권3호
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• pp.331-336
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• 2017

Bacteria exist everywhere and continuously come into contact with daily surroundings and humans. Super bacterium methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus, resistant to methicillin, has recently appeared. The morbidity and rate of death associated with super bacteria infection has increased. This study investigated the antibacterial activity of fabrics naturally dyed with Chamaecyparis obtusa leaves extract against methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus. Fabrics were left for 15 min in a natural dyeing solution prepared by extraction from C. obtusa leaves using 11.3% (o.w.f) with a fixed liquor ratio of 1:22 at $40^{\circ}C$. The dyeing process was conducted using three different mordants; subsequently, the K/S value of the dyed fabrics increased in the order of None < Cu < Fe < Al. The color fastness property of the fabrics to washing, dry-cleaning, and rubbing was found to be excellent and ranked in the 4-5 grade. The color fastness to light of natural dyeing is low in most cases and has the problem that the dye color soon becomes bleached. Yet, in most cases cloth dyed with retinispora leaves, the color fastnezz to light was good with a third to fourth grade. Non-mordant fabrics, aluminum mordants, and copper mordants also showed better antibacterial properties (99.9% reduction) against methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus, compared to the control fabrics. The dyed fabrics showed the same antibacterial activity even after three washes. The results highlight the strong potential of fabrics naturally dyed with C. obtusa-extract as a medicinal material with excellent antibacterial function against methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus.