• 복식
• /
• 제52권2호
• /
• pp.125-137
• /
• 2002

This study proved that Japanese skirt(裳 'sang') during 5-8 century was introduced by korean emigrants. The skirt of the Tang dynasty(7C) which used to be worn among Japanese upper class in the Nara period(8C),is understood to be transferred through Korean as it was popularly worn in the Shilla Dynasty at the same time. Because Japan was not able to trade with Tang during 4-9 century, unless pass through the Korean peninsular, it suggests that Japanese costume was affected by Korean style of costume. At the later Heian period in Japan, Kosode was mainly worn among Japanese and wearing a skirt has to be abandoned. Instead, only the train, a part of skirt, remain as a decorative part on the back of Japanese woman's formal dress and it continued until now.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제26권3_4호
• /
• pp.539-547
• /
• 2002

Heungdukwang's(興德王) costume ordinance(834A.D.) is a very important written historical record because it reveals Tongil Shilla's(統-新羅) costume. And among the clothing pieces that appeared in Heungdukwang's(興德王) costume ordinance, from Pyosang(表裳), Naesang(內裳), we know they wore one skirt over another. But skirts appearing in visual records are wort in waist line or breast line, and when they wore skirts in breast line, there were shoulder belts or not. Also among the clothing pieces that appeared in Heungdukwang'a (興德王) costume ordinance, Yo( ) and Ban( ) seems to be connected with skirt. but it is not clear. So this study focuses on the history of wearing skirt in breast line and one skirt over another, shoulder belts of skirt, and relation among yo( ), Ban( ) and skirt. The results are as follows. First, wearing skirt in breast line is already appeared in Ancient Shilla's(新羅) clay figure, and wearing one skirt over another is also appeared in Sunhung tomb's mural painting. so it is not completely under the influence of Tang(唐). Second, the shoulder belts of skirt is for convenience of action, But, at that time, there is no shoulder belts of skirt in Tang(唐). Third, between Yo( ) and Ban( ), If Yo( ) is connected with skirt, it is a shoulder belts of skirt or waist of skirt. And Ban( ) is a ire of skirt.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제12권5호
• /
• pp.859-879
• /
• 2004

As a result of research, the characteristics of the general costumes from the king Young-Cho period to the king Jung-Cho period in Genre Paintings of Mung-Hyun Oho, Yong Yun, In-Sang Lee, Hee-Eon Kang follows. First, the typical man wore his hair in a topknot(sangtu), and put on 'Bung-gu-ji', 'Lip', or a scarf on his head. The length of the 'Jeogori'(Korean traditional jacket) was long enough to cover the waist. Dress for work had side slits, and had half length sleeve Jeogori, and short pants looked like 'Jam-bang-i'. They went barefoot and wore 'Jipsin'(Korean traditional straw shoes). Dress for outdoor was 'Po' that knot at front of chest by band. 'Baji'(slacks) were with knot below knee, worn 'Hang-jun'(ankle band) and the width of slacks was suitable. They were 'Beoseon'(Korean traditional socks) and shoes. Second those in the upperc1ass and those in the military put on 'Mang-geon', 'Gat', 'Sa-bang-gan', 'Tang-geon', 'Bok-geon' on their head on a topknot. Most of them wore 'So-chang-i', 'Jung-chi-mag' or 'Do-po'. The length of Jeogori covered the waist or the hip and were tied with 'Go-rum'(ribbon). Baji was tied with Hang-jun and 'Dae-nim'. The waist of the slacks were tied with a dark colored waist-band and folded down their waist of slacks. They wore white color Beoseon and 'Hye' or dark color leather shoes. They wore 'Sup'(assistant of arm) for bow. It showed the lifestyle of the 18C with fan, 'Be-ru', 'Mug', 'Yun-jug', teacup, pot, etc. Third, child's hair was short or knotted to the back of the head. The length of Jeogori reached waist line, Git of Jeogori was 'Dunggurai-Kit'(shape of round) and other style Jeogori, which reached the hip line, had side-slit. Baji was tied with Dae-nim, and the width of the slacks is suitable. They hang 'Yum-nang'(Pocket). Final, most women worked outdoors wearing their hair in a high twisted style, or covered it with scarf. They wore Jeogori and 'Chima'(Korean traditional skirts), Bagi. They folded up the sleeves of the Jeogori. And they folded the 'Jambang-i-styled' pants to just above the knees, fastening at the waist. When they wore skirts, they also wore underpants under the skirt that went down to the knees. Most of them went barefoot and wore straw shoes, Jipsin. Through genre paintings, we can understand the ways and forms of our ancestor's clothing. And with our understanding, interest, and passion, we can be familiar with Hanbok in our daily life by succeeding and creating its peculiar style. And then we can promote the globalization of Hanbok.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제12권6호
• /
• pp.1060-1069
• /
• 2004

We can study and judge the costumes of the Three Kingdom period through an ancient tomb murals and various burial mound(clay) figures, however, it is quite difficult to search for costumes of the Goryeo period ($960{\sim}1392$), because dresses from this era were rarely found, related antiquities are limited and hard to survive. This is the reason why people say that the Goryeo Dynasty is the period of undiscovered era for its history of costumes in Korea. Fortunately, these days, there are various kinds of buddhist statues discovered with its burial accessories such as costumes and dyed fabrics of the Goryeo era. Through these, we can glimpse through the Goryeo cloths and develop our researches on this field. In addition, a man called Seo Geung(서긍, the Chinese scholar Xu Jing) wrote a book in the 12th century about peoples lives in Goryeo and in this book, there are few documents about the people's costumes which help us to understand the period's traditional dresses. In this paper, we will look for the traditional costumes which were formed and developed through people's lives in Goryeo, using remains from various burial accessories in buddhist statues as well as the documents related to the costumes written in ${\ll}$Goryeosa 고려사${\gg}$. Moreover, costumes of a period usually developed and influenced by the atmosphere of people's lives both economically and mentally, therefore, in this study, we will especially focus on the dresses of the bureaucratic officials and their wives, who led comfortable lives and latitude of mind. Through the records, like Silla, Goryeo exported Sehjeo(세저) and Sehjoongmapo(세중마포) to China. And we found out that Silla's skillful weaving techniques of hemp and ramie cloths were succeeded to Goryeo. According to above facts, Goryeo people made clothes with various kinds of fabrics such as, different sorts of silks, ramie, hemp cloths and cottons. They also have very skillful manufacturing techniques for certain textiles. Their official robes were generally influenced by Tang and Song Dynasty, but, like ordinary people, we found out that the government officials also wore baji(pants) and a jeogor(jacket), which were traditional costumes since the Unified Silla Kingdom with various coats. Especially, women's costumes such as jeoksam(unlined summer jacket) and hansam(한삼), which are sort of jeogori(jacket), baji(pants) and chima(skirts) were made of various kinds of silks and ramie cloths, that were generated from the Goguryeo Kingdom, with jikryeongpo(a long jacket and striped skirt).