• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.1138-1150
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• 1996

This study was carried out to investigate the effects of dyeing on the mechanical properties, primary hand, total hand value (THV), and total appearance value (TAV) of woven fabrics. Cotton, PET, nylon, cotton/PET, and cotton/nylon woven fabrics were used as test specimens. Each of fabric was dyed under the same conditions as the fabrics for sportswear which consumers have selected as best. Mechanical properties of specimens were measured by KES-FB system and primary hand and THV were calculated by equation KN -201-MDY and KN-301-WINTER respectively. TAV was calculated by KN (eq. 10). The results were as follows: 1. In mechanical properties. tensile energy increased when cotton and two cotton mixture fabrics were dyed and decreased when polyester and nylon fabrics were dyed. Bending rigidity and shear rigidity decreased after all fabrics were dyed except nylon and cotton/ nylon mixture fabrics showing higher rigidities. Cotton fabrics showed higher surface roughness while other fabrics did lower values after dyeing. 2. In evaluation of primary hand and total hand , four primary hands of cotton fabrics so decreased after dyeing that THV were lowered. Numeri, Fukurami, and Sofutosa in primary hand of polyester, cotton/polyester, and cotton/nylon fabrics and Koshi and Numeri of nylon fabrics increased after dyeing and therefore THV of four fabrics were improved. 3. Cotton and polyester fabrics showed higher TAV due to their lower bending and shear rigidity, while nylon and cotton/nylon fabrics did lower values due to their higher shear rigidity. 4. It was proposed that the method of dyeing or treatment for minimizing the decrease of THV of cotton fabrics and TAV of nylon fabrics should be developed.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.174-179
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• 2001

This study investigated the effect of aftertreatments such as using the softener or starch on the mechanical properties of knitted fabrics. The mechanical properties of fabrics, hand value(HV) and total hand value(THV) were measured and calculated by the KES-F system. The main results are as follows: The values of tensile energy(WT), coefficient of friction(MIU) and geometrical roughness(SMD) were increased by softener but decreased by starch treatment. However, the values of tensile linearity(LT), bending(B, 2HB), thickness(T) and weight(W) were increased by starch but decreased by softener treatment. Tensile resilience(RT) was increased not only by softener but also by starch treatment. It showed that the levels of FUKURAMI, NUMERI and SOFUTOSA were increased by the treatment of softener and the levels of KOSHI and SHARI were increased by the treatment of starch. Total hand value(THV) was lower in fabric with starch treatment than fabric with none treatment.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.3 s.151
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• pp.386-395
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• 2006

Chitosan, a natural polymer has been used to nonwoven fabrics based polypropylene for sanitary top sheets. The changes in mechanical properties relating to the surface structure of functionally improved nonwoven fabrics were investigated with respect to the molecular weight and concentration of chitosan that was used. Low molecular weight(LMW) chitosan treated fabric was found to be evenly coated on the fabrics. It was shown that the bending and shearing characteristics of chitosan treated fabrics increased, which helped to make it stronger and harder, while shape stability improved following treatment using high molecular weight(HMW) chitosan. And the surface structure of treated fabrics was smooth and the sensitivity of its bulk improved somewhat. The treated fabrics were not overly stiff because the increase in Koshi value was not considerable compared to that of the bending characteristics. In the change of hand value relating to chitosan treated fabrics, THV generally improved. In the case of a 0.5$\%$ chitosan, HMW chitosan treated fabrics produced better THV than LMW chitosan treated fabrics. However, in the case of a 1.0$\%$ chitosan, THV of LMW chitosan treated fabrics produced outstanding results.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.10
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• pp.1809-1820
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• 2001

본 연구에서는 모 직물의 접착심과의 접착 후, 프레싱 처리 후, 드라이클리닝 처리 후 프레스로 처리한 실제의 의복의 관리와 생산 면에서 접할 수 있는 직물 변화에 대하여 물성 변화를 살펴보았다. 겉감으로는 신사복 춘하용 모 100% 또는 모혼방 직물 15종류를 사용하였으며 심지로는 신사복에 많이 쓰이는 3종류 심지를 사용하였다. KES시스템을 이용하여 직물의 접착후, 프레싱 처리 후, 드라이크리닝과 프레싱 처리 후의 물성 변화를 시험하였으며 다음과 같은 결과를 얻었다. 1) 접착 후 EM은 대체로 감소하지만 강성과 이력 현상은 증가하는 것으로 나타났다. 결과로 KOSHI, SHARI, HARI는 증가하고 THV는 감소하여 태는 접착으로 저하되었다. 2) 프레싱 처리 후는 접착 후와 큰 차이를 보이지 않는다. 마찰특성에서 좀더 매끄러워지고 마찰 계수는 증가하는 것으로 나타났다. 3) 드라이크리닝과 프레싱 처리 후의 물성의 변화에서는 위사 방향의 큰 값을 갖는 경우에 감소하는 것으로 나타났다. 굽힘 강성과 전단강성은 감소하였지만 이력은 증가하는 흥미로운 결과를 보인다. 드라이클리닝 용제의 효과로 여겨진다. 무게는 증가하여 직물이 처리 후 수축한 것으로 나타났다. 프레싱 처리 후와 비교시 KOSHI, SHARI, HARI와 FURAMl는 감소하고 THV는 증가하여 태가 향상하였다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.5
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• pp.582-587
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• 2003

To examine the effect of heat treatment temperature in finishing process on PET/PBT Fabric, PET/PBT Fabrics were treated at different relaxing temp., pre-set temp., and final-set temp.. The dimensions such as thickness and density were measured, and the handles were evaluated by Kawabata system. In relaxing which was wet heat treatment, thickness and bulkiness were increased, and NUMERI, FUKURAMI, SOFUTOSA, and THV also were increased but KOSHI was decreased with elevating temperature. With elevating pre-set temp., thickness and bulkiness were decreased, but KOSHI was increased. NUMERI, FUKURAMI, SOFUTOSA, and THV were the best at 180$^{\circ}C$ pre-set treatment. In final-set which was dry heat treatment like pre-set, thickness, bulkiness, NUMERI, HUKURAMI, SOFUTOSA, and THV were decreased, but KOSHI value was increased with elevating temperature. Therefore the best heat treatment condition was 130$^{\circ}C$ relaxing, 180$^{\circ}C$ pre-set, and 160$^{\circ}C$ final-set. And the handle of PET/PBT Fabric was affected much more by relaxing temp. than pre-set temp. and final-set temp.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.257-266
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• 1998

This study was conducted to examine the changes of the mechanical properties of the position in jean slacks during the wear, previously used for the wearing test, which were subjected to repeated tensile-shearing deformation using a simulated fatigue tester has been investigated and compared, by calculating both mechanical properties and hand value(HV) of these fabrics with KES-F system and the by obtaining the THV through these calculated properties. The results are as follows. 1. The fatigue phenomenon of mechanical properties was the LT, 2H B, 2HBS, MMD, SMD, RC values increased, elasticity values of tensile, bending and shearing properties, such as B, G and compression properties LC, WC were reduced. It was shown, then, that those fabrics lost their elasticity and became flexible and soft with the increase of fatigue. 2. The hand value and THV; except anterior knee from all part of KOSHI, NUMERI, FUKURAMI was decreased. 3. The fatigue phenomenon of hand value was different on the position of clothing; on the position of hip, rate of B, G smaller than other parts and KOSHI was decreased, on the part of anterior thigh was FUKURAMI was increased, on the anterior knee RC, NUMERI, THV was increased, on the posterior knee was 2HB, 2HG, 2HGS showed increasedgreater than any other part and on the hem of back, MMD was increased, but NUMERI was decreased. 4. The changing process of mechanical properties in the simulation testing by the fatigue tester has similar tendency to that of the wearing tester. It is concluded that this testing method is useful to predict the fatigue phenomena of fabrics caused by wearing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.12
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• pp.1701-1708
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• 2002

본 연구의 목적은 자외선 차단 가공 처리 및 자외선 조사처리에 의해 면직물의 역학적 특성 변화를 조사하고 가공제 처리조건에 따른 차이점을 분석하는 것이다. 시료로는 100% 면직물을, 자외선 흡수제로 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxy benzophenone을, 첨가제로 Triton X-100, polyethylene glycol 400, MgCl$_2$.6$H_2O$를 사용하였다. 자외선 흡수제 처리는 Atlas Launder-O-meter로 75$^{\circ}C$에서 60분간 흡진법으로 하였다. 미처리 시료 및 처리시료는 모두 xenon 램프에 80시간 동안 노출되었으며, 자외선 조사 전후 시료의 역학적 특성은 KES-F시스템을 사용하여 측정하였다. 본 연구의 결과는 다음과 같이 요약할 수 있다. 자외선 흡수제 처리는 처리 농도에 상관없이 면직물의 선형인장성(LT), 인장레질리언스(RT), 굽힘강성(B), 굽힘이력(2HB), 전단강성(G), 전단이력(2HG5), 표면마찰계수(MIU)등을 증가시켰으며 표면거칠기(SMD)는 감소시켰다. 압축특성은 처리농도의 영향을 받아서 고농도의 자외선 흡수제 처리는 압축특성을 감소시켰으며, 저농도의 처리는 압축특성을 증가시켰다. 자외 선 흡수제 처리는 처리농도에 상관없이 면직물의 fullness/softness를 유의하게 증가시키는 반면 stiffness, crispness및 anti-drape stiffness를 감소시켜서 가공포의 종합태(THV)는 가공 전에 비하여 저하하였다. 자외선 조사는 가공 전 면직물의 경우 B, 2HB, G, 2HG, 2HG5, LC를 감소시켰다. 자외선 조사는 처리농도와 상관없이 가공포의 WT, 굽힘특성 , 전단특성을 감소시켰으며, 저농도의 흡수제 처리포의 경우 SMD를 증가시켰으며, 고농도의 흡수제 처리포의 경우 SMD를 감소시켰다. 자외선 조사는 처리농도와 상관없이 가공포의fullness/softness, stiffness, anti-drape stiffness를 유의하게 감소시켜서 자외선 조사 전 보다 THV가 37% 저하하였고 미 가공포의 THV를 저하율보다는 저하가 낮았다. 자외선 흡수제 처리에 의해 면직물의 태는 가공 전보다 감소하지만, 자외선 흡수제 처리는 자외선 조사에 의한 태 감소율을 낮추는 데 유의 한 효과가 있다.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.21-29
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• 2009

In order to enhance the functionality of a cotton fabric actually used as a clothing material for patients, the fabrics were treated with a chitosan/nanosilver mixed solution. The nanosilver had excellent biocompatibility, provided expectation of an additional performance, did not harm human beings, and supplements chitosan, which was disadvantaged if used alone for fabric treatment. The nanosilver was mixed thereto and a treatment effect due to a mixing ratio was considered. This study was observed through mechanical properties and hand value which were the important function. The treatment of chitosan/nanosilver mixed solution gave a smoother surface than the treatment of chitosan alone. As a result of evaluation of the forms according to KES-FB system, Koshi was deduced, and both Numeri and Fukurami were increased. Thereby, the cotton fabric was a little smooth to provide elasticity, due to the treatment of chitosan/nanosilver mixed solution. THV of the treated fabrics calculated from this basis increased at all mixing ratio as compared with the untreated fabric. The fabrics treated with chitosan/nanosilver mixed solution were shown a better THV than the fabric treated with chitosan alone.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.1 no.3
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• pp.288-295
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• 1999

This study was conducted to examine the fatigue phenomenon of mechanical properties in tencel fabrics by repeated washing & shear and tensile deformation. The obtained results are as follows. After performing repeated shear tensile deformation, RT of tencel showed higher increase rate than that of cotton and rayon, whereas its WT and EM was a smaller decrease rate than that of them. This means that tencel's resistance to tensile deformation was the greatest. In the repeated washing and shear tensile deformation, tencel's 2HB, 2HG and 2HG5 showed a remarkable increase rate. In terms of deformation frequency, the greatest change rate appeared at the time of 1000 cycles of repeated shear tensile deformation and 15 times of repeated washing. In the hand value and THV, KOSHI showed a higher increase rate for tencel than for cotton and rayon in both repeated washing and shear tensile deformation, and NUMERI showed a higher increase rate. In the THV the change rate of rayon and cotton could be rarely seen but for tencel, it decreased. tencel's change rate of thermal insulation value by materials was 1.08%, and it increased as the washing frequency increased, compared to the grey fabrics, whereas the change rates of cotton and rayon were 0.74% and 0.22%, respectively. The qmax decreased in the order of cotton>tencel>rayon as the washing frequency increased.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.163-172
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• 2010

In order to investigate the changes in mechanical properties of sanitary nonwoven fabrics actually used as a top sheet, the fabric was treated with a mixture of chitosan and nanosilver colloidal solution in accordance with the prescribed ratio. The former is a natural polymer with excellent biocompatibility and the latter can give an additional performance while compensating the weaknesses of chitosan of deteriorating adherence efficiency. It was shown that the bending and shearing characteristics of the chitosan/nanosilver treated fabrics decreased, which helped to make it softer, smoother and more flexible. The shape stability and drapability of the treated fabrics improved. As KES-FB system evaluation showed that Koshi was deduced, and both Numeri and Fukurami were increased. Thereby, the chitosan/nanosilver treated fabrics were smoother to provide elasticity. In the change of hand value compared to chitosan only treatment, a better THV was shown in the fabrics treated with chitosan/nanosilver mixed solution than the fabric treated with chitosan alone.