• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제14권2호
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• pp.203-210
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• 2012

This study, focusing on the costumes of Kouge in the era of Kamakura and the end of Heian in Japan, aims to explore the aspects and characteristics of the costumes that were developed under political, economical, and social circumstances. The findings are the following. Male costumes include Sokdae, Pogo, Euigwan, Jikeui, Sueui, and Sugan, while female costumes include Shipidan, Sogyu, Sejang, and Hansam. Different clothes of Kuge were chosen depending on the types and purposes of the occasions: full dress and Yahkjang, a semi-dress, for a ceremonial purpose, street costume for a personal visit purpose, outdoor clothing for hunting and outdoor activities, Cheongjangsok, and Sukjikjangsok. In these various types of clothes we can assume the elegant life of aristocratic class of Kouge. In addition, different fabrics, patterns, and dresses were chosen depending on the grade of ranks of Kouge, so that Kouge can differentiate their ranks, keep the order of the ranks, and enhance their authority by themselves. With the advent in the era of Kamakura, the power of Kouge was weakened and their clothes underwent changes, some types of clothes were omitted or simplified or the clothes of subordinates were worn. In addition, when new forces appeared and new clothes came about, there were changes in the purpose and the wearer of the clothes: from ordinary clothes to official clothes, from the clothes of lower class to the clothes of higher class, and from Sukjikjangsok to Cheongjangsok.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제19권1호
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• pp.95-105
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• 2015

This study investigated the color culture in the Japanese Medieval Age. The Japanese Medieval Age included the Kamakura period (1180-1333) and Muromachi period (1336-1573), and the leading group transitioned from the Kuge families to the Buke families. The taboos about colors from ancient times became nominal, and forbidden colors, such as purple, celadon, and red, became the colors of the samurai, leading to beautiful soldier gears that were unparalleled in history. In the Kamakura period, colors that conveyed a strong impression were created and preferred with the combination of a samurai's reasonable spirit and zen thoughts. The period was also called "the era of hari", and cross dyeing based on basic colors such as suou (red), ai (blue), and kuchinasi (yellow) was popular. In both the Kamakura and Muromachi periods, conspicuous and strong colors were sought for costumes, and embroidery was used with gold leaf, silver leaf, gold threads, silver threads, and background color. The colors of costume preferred by Buke men in the period included green, blue, and brown. In the characteristics of the kosode, the sugan and hitadare were used for men's formal dress, while kosode was used for the grooming of the working class. In these periods, additionally, the working class began to be socially engaged in actively wearing the one-layer kosode, which became popular, and the characteristics of the Japanese Medieval Age, during which functionality and practicality was valued, were also reflected in the dressing.

• 한국철학논집
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• 제35호
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• pp.131-164
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• 2012

이 글은 남당(南塘) 한원진(韓元震)의 "경의기문록(經義記聞錄)"이 가진 철학사적 입장을 개괄하고, 권6의 부록으로 수록된 "이기심성도설(理氣心性圖說)"의 성립 연대와 개략적인 내용을 검토한 것이다. 총 17개의 도설(圖說)들은 리기론(理氣論), 심성론(心性論), 수양론(修養論) 등의 분야에 걸쳐 있다. 이 도설들은 남당이 호학(湖學)으로 불리는 황강(黃江)학파의 일원이 되면서부터 강학(講學)을 통해 습득한 내용들을 체계적으로 쉽게 이해할 목적으로 제작된 것이다. 남당의 철학적 입론은 이이(李珥), 송시열(宋時烈), 권상하(權尙夏)로 이어져 온 기호성리학(畿湖性理學)의 정통적 흐름을 계승한 것이다. 리기론에 해당하는 "이기원류도(理氣源流圖)", "이기동정도(理氣動靜圖)", "일원분수도(一原分殊圖)"(4개) 등은 기호성리학의 본체론(本體論)에 해당하는 것을 도해한 것이다. 기호성리학의 심성론을 도해한 것으로는 "심통성정도(心統性情圖)"를 중심으로 한, "성정횡간도(性情橫看圖)", "성정수간도(性情竪看圖)", "성정총회도(性情總會圖)", "오성호주도(五性互主圖)", "오성추본도(五性推本圖)", "심성묘합도(心性妙合圖)", "심성이기도(心性二岐圖)", "중용천명도(中庸天命圖)", "인심도심도(人心道心圖)" 등이 있으며, 마지막 "위학지방도(爲學之方圖)"는 율곡과 송시열에 의해서 기초가 마련된 수양론에 대한 도식을 개작한 것이다. "경의기문록"의 철학사적 의의는 황강학파의 강학 내용을 집대성한 것으로서, 남당이 호학의 주도적인 이론가라는 것을 구체적으로 증명해주고 있다.