• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.203-210
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• 2012

This study, focusing on the costumes of Kouge in the era of Kamakura and the end of Heian in Japan, aims to explore the aspects and characteristics of the costumes that were developed under political, economical, and social circumstances. The findings are the following. Male costumes include Sokdae, Pogo, Euigwan, Jikeui, Sueui, and Sugan, while female costumes include Shipidan, Sogyu, Sejang, and Hansam. Different clothes of Kuge were chosen depending on the types and purposes of the occasions: full dress and Yahkjang, a semi-dress, for a ceremonial purpose, street costume for a personal visit purpose, outdoor clothing for hunting and outdoor activities, Cheongjangsok, and Sukjikjangsok. In these various types of clothes we can assume the elegant life of aristocratic class of Kouge. In addition, different fabrics, patterns, and dresses were chosen depending on the grade of ranks of Kouge, so that Kouge can differentiate their ranks, keep the order of the ranks, and enhance their authority by themselves. With the advent in the era of Kamakura, the power of Kouge was weakened and their clothes underwent changes, some types of clothes were omitted or simplified or the clothes of subordinates were worn. In addition, when new forces appeared and new clothes came about, there were changes in the purpose and the wearer of the clothes: from ordinary clothes to official clothes, from the clothes of lower class to the clothes of higher class, and from Sukjikjangsok to Cheongjangsok.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.95-105
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• 2015

This study investigated the color culture in the Japanese Medieval Age. The Japanese Medieval Age included the Kamakura period (1180-1333) and Muromachi period (1336-1573), and the leading group transitioned from the Kuge families to the Buke families. The taboos about colors from ancient times became nominal, and forbidden colors, such as purple, celadon, and red, became the colors of the samurai, leading to beautiful soldier gears that were unparalleled in history. In the Kamakura period, colors that conveyed a strong impression were created and preferred with the combination of a samurai's reasonable spirit and zen thoughts. The period was also called "the era of hari", and cross dyeing based on basic colors such as suou (red), ai (blue), and kuchinasi (yellow) was popular. In both the Kamakura and Muromachi periods, conspicuous and strong colors were sought for costumes, and embroidery was used with gold leaf, silver leaf, gold threads, silver threads, and background color. The colors of costume preferred by Buke men in the period included green, blue, and brown. In the characteristics of the kosode, the sugan and hitadare were used for men's formal dress, while kosode was used for the grooming of the working class. In these periods, additionally, the working class began to be socially engaged in actively wearing the one-layer kosode, which became popular, and the characteristics of the Japanese Medieval Age, during which functionality and practicality was valued, were also reflected in the dressing.

• The Journal of Korean Philosophical History
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• no.35
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• pp.131-164
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• 2012

This paper is to make a generalization of Keyongyegimunrok(經義記聞錄) by Namdang Han Wonjin(1682~1751) whose historical positions of philosophy were contained, and to examine its established periods and the summaries of Ligi-Simseong Doseol(理氣心性圖說, illustrated Account of principle, Vital force, and Heart-mind) given in Appendix of Chap. 6. Total seventeen explanatory diagrams cover over the theory of principle and material force, theory of Heart-mind, theory of cultivation. These explanatory diagrams were produced systematically and easily to understand the pursuits of study, so-called Ho-hak(湖學), since Namdang becoming a member of the Yellow River(黃江) school. The philosophical argumentations of Namdang was usually succeeded by the orthodox stream of Ki-ho(畿湖) School transmitted from Ii, Song Si-yeol, Gwon Sang-ha. Ligi-wollyu-do(理氣源流圖), Ligi-dongjeong-do(理氣動靜圖), irwon-bunsu-do(一原分殊圖, 4 diagrams) are diagrams equivalent to Ki-ho School's ontology. As Ki-ho School's theory of Heart-mind, there are Seongjeong-hoenggan-do(性情橫看圖), Seongjeong-sugan-do(性情竪看圖), Seongjeong-chonghwoi-do(性情總會圖), Oseonghoju-do (五性互主圖), Oseongchubon-do(五性推本圖), Simseongmyohap-do (心性妙合圖), Simseongiji-do(心性二岐圖), Jungyongcheonmyeong-do(中庸天命圖), Insim dosim-do(人心道心圖), focusing on Simtongseongjeong-do(心統性情圖), and last diagram is Wihakjibang-do(爲學之方圖), which adapted from the diagram established by Ii and Song Si-yeol. The significance of Keyongyegimunrok(經義記聞錄) is comprehensive of the pursuits of the Yellow River school's studies, and provides evidence of a leading figure in Ho-hak.