• Journal of Wetlands Research
• /
• v.14 no.4
• /
• pp.439-455
• /
• 2012

Coupled wave induced current modeling system(WIC) was developed from combining with the nearshore spectral wave model, SWAN, the wave induced force model, WIF, and the flow model, EFDC. The reasonable results were obtained from WIC modeling system. The ratio of the wave height calculated with respect to refraction and diffraction effects over submerged spherical shoal was occurred approximately 1~5 % errors compared to Goda(2000)'s result. The radiation stress suggested by Longuet-Higgins and Stewart(1960), the stresses due to rollers in breaking waves proposed by Dally and Osiecki(1994), and Kim(2004)'s new spreading approach instead of the previous lateral mixing approach were added to calculate wave induced force. The results of the WIC modeling system show good agreement with Nishimura et al.(1985)'s laboratory measurements and better than Kim(2004)'s 2 dimensional depth averaged numerical computations for a plane beach with detached breakwater. The present flow field computed agrees reasonably well with the measured flow field. The relative merit of WIF model in WIC modeling system is unconditional stable for time increment.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
• /
• v.20 no.6
• /
• pp.142-149
• /
• 2019

In this study, the past erosion history and current status in the CHUNG-UI beach of Eulwang-dong, Jung-gu, Incheon-Si, South Korea were investigated and analyzed the wave with wave-induced current to investigate the causes of coastal erosion. As a result, the significant wave height ($H_{1/3}$) was in the range of 0.07~1.57 m and the mean value was 0.21 m. The maximum wave height ($H_{max}$) was in the range of 0.02-4.76m and the mean value was 0.27m. The vertical wave height and cycles were estimated through numerical model experiments of wave transformation. The 50-year frequency design wave height ranged from 0.82m to 3.75m. As a result of the experiment of wave-induced current, wave-induced current in the CHUNG-UI beach was decreased after the installation of the Detached breakwater and the Jetty. On the other hand, when the crest elevation was increased up to 5 m, there was no significant change, but when the crest elevation was increased to 8m, strong wave-induced current occurred around the submerged breakwaters due to lowered depth of water. In addition, the main erosion of the CHUNG-UI beach is due to the intensive invasion of the wave characteristics coming from the outer sea into the white sandy beach. The deformation of the wave centered on the front of the sandy beach caused additional longshore currents flowing parallel to the sandy beach and rip currents in the transverse direction, thus confirming that the longshore sediment was moved out of the front and out of the sea. The results of this study can be used as preliminary data for the recovery of the sand and the selection of efficient erosion prevention facilities.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
• /
• 2004.05b
• /
• pp.1445-1449
• /
• 2004

Even though there can be a relative long-term or short-term change of their size in natural beaches due to various changes of sea condition such as the location, weather condition (wind and rain) and sea water flow, the budget of deposits in a specific area is generally regarded to be in a condition of equilibrium in terms of technology. However, as coasts are developed by many different kinds of ways (such as construction of sea walls and estuarine, dredging for gathering the aggregate and shore protection construction for establishing a structure) and sources of silt and gravel from rivers are decreased in balanced beaches, the beaches are in a serious danger of lack of sand and sand sources which are one of the maul elements to consist of them. Many swimming beaches in East Sea are directly exposed by waves generated and transmitted from outer seas. On the other hand, the Song-Do sandy beach which is this study's target area has a great condition for beach development because it locates the deepest place that is relatively shallow in Young-Il Man and there is big energy decrease given to waves from outer seas while the waves are reaching the Song-Do beach. Nevertheless, it is considered that artificial condition changes such as dredging for site extension by POSCO, getting straight of Hyoung-San Gang river flow and extension of Po-Hang harbor caused the sand loss of the beach. Therefore, some recovery plans of Song-Do sandy beach will be presented in this study and they will be compared and examined each other by numerical modeling experiment. After that, the best plan will be recommended.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.1 no.1
• /
• pp.22-30
• /
• 1989

Wave propagation is changed by the effect of shoaling, current-depth refraction and shelter-ing etc. To solve these problems. numerous models have been developed. In the present study, a coordinate system is proposed based on the wave ray equation with the wave number equation including diffraction effects . The governing equation for the study was derived from the mild slope wave equation in non-steady state, including current effects (Kirby, 1986a) and trans-formed into an orthogonal curvilinear coordinate system on the basis of the wave ray equation. To obtain a numerical solution, an explicit finite difference scheme was used, and solved by the relaxation method. This model was tested for various cases: Firstly a submersed circular shoal and a constant unit depth. Secondly a submerged elliptic shoal on a slope, and finally a breakwater harbour with obliquely incident waves on a slope. The model was found to simulate the experimental results and other theoretical results in wave height and wave angle fairy well, and the applicability of the model around an arbitrary shaped coastal structure was also verified. To demonstrate the general usefullness of the present approach , the model is to be applied to a field situation with a complex bed topography.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
• /
• v.33 no.1
• /
• pp.68-75
• /
• 2019

A low-crested structure (LCS) is an excellent feature not only because it provides shore protection but also because it is fully submerged. However, in order to properly control waves, it is necessary to maintain a certain range of crest height and width in consideration of the wave dimensions at the installation area. According to previous studies, an LCS has some wave breaking effect when the crest width is more than a fourth of the incident wavelength and the crest depth is less than a third of the incident wave height. In other words, if the crest width of the LCS is small or the crest depth is large, it cannot control the wave. Therefore, when an LCS is installed in a large sea area with a great tidal range in consideration of the landscape, waves cannot be blocked at high tide. In this study, the hydraulic performances of a typical trapezoidal LCS with a constant crest height and a low-crested structure with an adjustable crest height, which was called a tide-adapting low-crested structure (TA-LCS) in this study, were compared and evaluated under various wave conditions through hydraulic experiments. It was found that the wave transmission coefficients of the TA-LCS at high tide were lower than the values for the typical LCS based on empirical formulas. In addition, the hydraulic performances of the TA-LCS for wave reflection control were 12.9?30.4% lower than that of the typical LCS. Therefore, the TA-LCS is expected to be highly effective in controlling the energy of incoming waves during high tide even in a macro-tidal area.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
• /
• v.28 no.6
• /
• pp.565-572
• /
• 2004

Residual current plays more important role than the tidal current for long-term material transport in coastal areas. The main component of residual current is tide-induced residual current. Otherwise, wind driven current and buoyancy-driven current are important components which change the residual current. To clarify the characteristic of coastal current, application of a three -dimensional model is necessary. This study focuses on clarifying the stratified systems of coastal water affected by freshwater runoff from a river and analyzes the structure of current at Ulsan bay by applying a three-dimensional buoyancy-driven current model. According to the result of “Ulsan bay” study, it shows that the surface layer in semi-enclosed estuaries, which affected by freshwater runoff. has flows going out, and the bottom layer has flows coming in. Besides when the wind blows toward inside of the bay, the surface layer has flows coming in and the bottom layer has flows going out as compensation flows for the surface circulation. The results of simulation could be applicable to examine vertical upwelling, which might be caused by construction of artificial fishing reef to build aqua farm, submerged breakwater to control coastal sediment, and the formulation of oceanic ridge, or a basic study on application to the usage of deep water.