• Fibers and Polymers
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• 제5권1호
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• pp.6-11
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to analyze the subjective fabric hand of sleepwear fabrics, and to assist in developing sleepwear fabrics that offer maximum comfort in wearing sensation. In general, the respondents noted that sleepwear fabrics made with polyester had better tactile sensation than those made with cotton, while satin weave fabrics felt better than plain weave fabrics. As regards the difference in fabric hand according to gender, female students responded with more receptiveness and sensitivity than male students in the category of woven fabric evaluation. As regards the same textile materials, the evaluations of female students and male students differed in fabric hand descriptors, particularly for the evaluation on cotton fabrics. Male students responded that both plain weave fabrics and satin weave fabrics were stiff while female students replied that satin weave fabrics had better tactile sensation.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제18권4호
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• pp.452-459
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• 1994

Fabric hand was assessed for 14 women's spring-fall dress fabrics based on the subjective hand evaluation scale developed in the part 1 of this study. The effects of fabric type, seam and dress style on the subjective hand evaluation of 470 Korean consumers (205 textile experts and 265 non-experts) were investigated. Mechanical properties obtained from KES-FB system were compared with the each dimension of subjective hand expression. The type of fiber and construction were considered to be important factors in affecting hand assessment of Korean consumers, however, the presence and type of seam were not considered to be important. There were certain characteristics of subjective hand attributes for each dress style. Surface properties of fabrics, even though it is not strictly mechanical properties, appeared to be the most effective dimension in the developement of new products which appeal to Korean conssumers.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권2호
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• pp.355-363
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to investigate how the weave type, yarn twist fabric count and fiber content of the worsted fabrics affect the subjective sensation of the hand. Thirty worsted fabrics that were mainly used for the spring and fall ladies'suits at national brands were selected. Variables were such as four different kinds of weave types, plain, twill, satin and decorative; two levels of yarn twist, normal and high; various fabric counts; two different fiber contents, pure wool and Lycra contained. Image analysis and wavelet transform techniques were used to quantify the surface fiber, For surface characteristics, MIU, MMD and SMD were measured by KES-FB system. The Questionnaires with 23 adjectives were used for the subjective hand evaluation. Panels were So specialists of fashion or fabric designers and merchandizers. By Factor Analysis, six factors that represent the subjective hand were extracted. The relationship between these factors and structural variables were analyzed. Yarn twist was significantly related to the surface characteristics and resilience. Weave structure affected surface characteristics, volume/warm-cool feeling and resilience. Fabric counts showed relations with volume/warm-cool feeling and the fiber contents with volume/warm-cool feeling, resilience and elastic properties. MIU, MMD and SMD showed no relations with the surface fibers. Subjective sensation of surface characteristics was affected by SMD and surface fibers.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• 제7권4호
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• pp.442-445
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to compare the subjective fabric hand evaluation and wear comfort of PET treated by Ultraviolet and to evaluate the subjective results from the investigation of microclimate temperature. The subjective hand evaluation was performed by 20 subjects (age: 20-25) with 5-point scale questionnaires to investigate the change of PET knit fabrics treated for different times, specifically, 0, 30 and 90 minutes. The questionnaires were composite with 8 questions; roughness, smoothness, wetness, stiffness, coolness, touch, preference, and comfort. In order to evaluate sensations of wear comfort, we made garments with UV treated fabric and five female students were tested. They walked at the speed of 6.7 km/ hr for 15 minutes in an environment, which was controlled at $29^{\circ}C,\;75{\pm}5%$ RH. Before and after exercising, the microclimate under clothing and subjective wear comfort was measured. The results of subjective evaluation of fabric hand were that untreated and treated for 30 minutes PET were recognized as similar and have a good evaluation on comfort, preference, and touch. According to the result of wear comfort, clothing treated by UV for 90 minutes had the lowest value on the thermal and humidity sensations. In addition, the value of tactile and comfort sensation was the highest on the clothing treated by UV for 90 minutes. In the case of objective evaluation, PET treated for 90 minutes was the lowest on microclimate humidity. PET irradiated by UV for 90 minutes was more 'cool' in thermal sensation and more 'dry' in wet sensation. Accordingly, it was consistent with the result of subjective wear comfort.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제23권2호
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• pp.220-229
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• 1999

The subjective hand and preference of alkaline hydrolized polyester fabrics were evaluated using the scale developed. The factors affecting consumer's taste for polyester fabrics was analyzed by the statistical technique. The effects of alkaline hydrolysis on the properties of polyester fabrics were evaluated by subjective and objective hand measurements. The lower the age the more senstive their feeling. As the age of evaluators decreased they felt fabrics light flexible refined thin flossy smooth fine soft more clinging. They also thought fabrics are colder, more flexible more spongy as the age increased. Experts were more sensitive and consistent when they evaluation the hand of fabrics than non-experts.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제17권5호
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• pp.854-861
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• 2015

This study evaluates the objective and subjective hand as well as the preference for hand and outdoor jackets on laminated waterproof breathable fabrics with different constituent characteristics to identify those best suited for consumer needs. Mechanical properties and objective hands were measured by the KES-FB system. The subjective hand and the preference of laminated waterproof breathable fabric for outdoor jackets were rated by the 20's and 30's women experts with tactile and visual senses that utilized a questionnaire with a seven-point semantic differential scale; subsequently, the flexibility and compressive elasticity of laminated waterproof breathable fabrics were low. However, light and thin waterproof breathable fabrics with a smooth surface had high scores in smoothness, fullness & softness and total hand value. In addition, laminated waterproof breathable fabrics were classified into three hand factors: flexibility, density, and surface properties. There were significant differences on flexibility and surface property perceptions, hand and out-door jackets preferences according to the characteristics of waterproof breathable fabrics. The hand preference of the laminated waterproof breathable fabric improved with decreasing 2HB and increasing EM. However, EM showed positive effect for outdoor jacket preferences. Those that were flexible and smooth were preferred for outdoor jackets.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제31권1호
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• pp.1-10
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• 2007

This research was designed to compare the subjective evaluation of Hand between on- and off-line by structure and sensible characteristics of fabric. 113 subjects who have a fashion design major evaluated the subjective evaluation of Hand of various 16 kinds of specimens on- and off-line. T-test and pearson correlation coefficient were used for statistical analysis by SPSS WIN 11.0. The results of this study were as follows: The results of correlation analysis of the evaluation score indicated that Crash and Satin show high correlation between two kinds of evaluation score. But, fabrics which have distinct characteristics such as Plush, Dobby, Seersucker represented low correlation coefficient. The results of t-test fer the difference of the evaluation score showed that thin fabrics like Organdy represent a large difference between on- and off-line evaluation. On the other hand, twill weaved fabrics like Drill, Tweed, Saxony did not show many differences. Analysing each item in terms of correlation of evaluation of hand between on- and off-line gave results that the shininess was most deliverable through on-line and density and the dryness was not so deliverable through on-line. Comparison of evaluation score between on- and off-line items showed that the estimation to real fabric is more negative than that of on-line. The results of most preferable hand between on-and off-line showed exact opposite preference between shinny, smooth and soft Satin and rough, woolen Tweed. Organdy showed the most different subjective evaluation of hand in real ones compared with that of on-line.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제18권3호
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• pp.327-338
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• 1994

KES-F system is widely used in hand evaluation, however, it has encountered some challenges, such as the overlapping of primary hand value, lack of predictability in case of women's thin dress, difficulties in communication due to complexity of primary hand expression and cultural differences in subjective evaluation. Therefore, this study was intended 1) to find out the Korean primary hand expressions(factors) of the overall concept of fabric hand associated with women's spring- fall dress fabrics, 2) to develope the fabric hand attributes of those fabrics and 3) to show whether there are any differences between Korean textile experts and non-experts in terms of the concept of fabric hand descriptors of hand attributes. Data base of hand descriptors were collected by extensive interview 60 experts and 10 non - experts using 110 spring-fall dress fabrics. Finally, hand of selected fabrics was assessed by 205 experts and 265 non-experts using 7-point scale of 26 descriptors based on the data base. Subjective ratings were analyzed by common factor analysis with varimax rotation. It was found that Korean primary hand expression indicated rather simple property, hence, did not equate exactly with Japanese experssion(e.g. koshi, shinayakasa, etc.) which contains several material properties. There were differences in stretch IE resilience, especially liveliness, between the judgement of non- ex- pert than to experts. Surface- related category was more important to non-experts than to experts. Slight differences were found between both groups in terms of preferred descriptors. Important descriptors as a rating scale were suggested.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권1호
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• pp.153-159
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• 2014

This study evaluates the changes of the subjective hand, preference, comfort and mechanical properties of tricot based artificial suede made from sea-island type micro fibers according to raising condition. The subjective hand and the preference of raised suede for jacket were rated by the 20's and 30's women experts according to raising cycles. Comfort properties were evaluated by air permeability, water vapor transmission, and thermal transmission. Mechanical properties were measured by the KES-FB system. The subjective hand of artificial suede was categorized into three hand factors: smoothness, warmness and thickness. Smoothness, warmness and thickness perception increased with raising cycles which affected hand preference and luxuriousness perception. The thickness and wale density of suede increased with the number of raising. Suede became more compact and less pliable and less stretchable due to increased fabric thickness; in addition, the surface of suede became smoother and compressive since the surface evenness of suede improved with smaller fiber fineness and an increased amount of naps covered the base fabric. Furthermore, water vapor transmission decreased and thermal insulation increased. The best raising conditions for artificial suede was four cycles in which artificial suede was preferred without changes in physical properties.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제25권1호
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• pp.115-123
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• 2001

This paper discussed the assessment of hand of cotton fabrics by enzymatic hydrolysis. The subjective hand and preference of denim fabrics finished by enzymatic hydrolysis were evaluated using the scale developed. The factors affecting consumers taste for denim fabrics were analyzed by the statistical technique. The effects of enzymatic hydrolysis on the properties of cotton fabrics were also evaluated by subjective hand measurements. The results are as follow; As the weight loss increased, evaluators thought that fabrics become finer, smoother, softer, warmer and more refined, and the sense of durability is sleeker and weaker, and the sense of weight is more flexible, flossier, lighter, softer, thinner. They didnt catch the change of moisture related properties according to the rate of weight loss. They also thought fabrics became more elastic, and less wrinklier as the weight loss increased. As the weight loss increased, the fabric was more preferred. The limited weight loss which changes the preference from \"dislike\" to \"like\" was 12.87%. The most preferred fabric was that with 12.87% of weight loss. It is supposed that the preference of fabric was related to the terms such as \"sum-se-ha-da\"(섬세하다), \"mai-ku-rup-da\"(매끄럽다), \"yoo-yon-ha-da\"(유연하다), \"too-bak-ji-an-da\"(투박하지 않다), \"chom-chom-ha-da\"(촘촘하다), \"gil-ki-da\"(질기다), \"kun-juk-goe-ri-ji-an-da\"(끈적거리지 않다), \"ku-kim-i-ka-ji-an-nun-da\"(구김이 가지 않는다).