• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.22 no.1
• /
• pp.16-27
• /
• 2014

This study investigated the characteristics of and changes in hemp textile production practices at Gurye in Jeollanam-do in modern times. To do this, in this study, both a literature review and fieldwork research were utilized as research methods. The literature review focused on Gurye's hemp data, and the fieldwork research involved two separate trials. Male and Female residents of Gurye who had experience in the area of hemp production from the 1920s to the 1980s participated in this study. The results were as follows. First, regarding hemp fiber cultivation in Gurye, hemp cultivation continued to the 1970s and there were no changes in hemp cultivation practices during the Japanese colonial-era. Second, there have been very important changes in hemp kilns over time. In the 1950s, there were both single-body kilns and separate-body kilns in Gurye. Later, specifically in the 1950s, a new type of kiln using an iron pot appeared, and the most modern kilns were concrete structures. Third, in Gurye, women cooperatively removed hemp husks immediately after stemming, subsequently bleaching the hemp by soaking it in lye or caustic soda. Over time, there have been changes in ash types and in soaking periods. Fourth, loom types changed from the traditional Korean back-strap loom to the treadle loom in the 1930s- to 1940s. Fifth, since the 1970s, the hemp textile output levels of Gurye have been reduced due to the westernization of clothing styles, the inflow of Chinese hemp fiber and government regulations pertaining to hemp cultivation.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.21 no.6
• /
• pp.844-859
• /
• 2013

This study investigated the characteristics and changes of cotton and silk textile production in Honam district, especially in Gurye, Jella Province from the 1930s to the 1980s. To do this, research method in this study was both literature and fieldwork research and results were as follows. First, in terms of cotton fiber cultivation of Gurye, Chinese Cotton(在來綿) has been substituted for America Cotton(陸地綿) and additionally, Yellow Cotton (黃綿) has been cultivated in the 1930s. Also, in terms of silk fiber cultivation of Gurye, Joseon Silkworm has been substituted for Japanese Silkworm by inflowing the Japanese mulberry tree. Second, in terms of spinning method, cotton spinning has been conducted at every house by an individual tool from the 1930s to the 1950s and has been gradually changed to mechanization by market shop equipped with mechanized cotton gin and cotton whipping tool. However, there have been no changes in silk spinning method from the 1930s to the 1980s. Third, loom type has been changed from the traditional Korean back-strap loom to the treadle loom between the 1930s and the 1940s. Fourth, dyeing was conducted by chemical dyestuff after weaving. The circulation of textile was done through the joint market by Japan in the 1930s~1950s and has changed to the market sales by producers since the 1950s. Fifth, since the 1970s, the outputs of cotton and silk textile of Gurye have been reduced. This was connected with the westernization and the inflow of the synthetic fiber and cloth in cotton and was related to the changes of the nation policy and silk fiber inflow from the china to the Korean farm villages.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.34 no.9
• /
• pp.1470-1478
• /
• 2010

This study investigates the suitability of outdoor wear among female trekkers in their twenties or thirties and provides data for developing outdoor wear more suitable for young females. Recently climbing has gained popularity as a leisure activity to enjoy the beauty of nature that increases physical and mental stamina. A survey was conducted on 304 female consumers in their twenties and thirties who enjoyed climbing in order to investigate the suitability of outdoor wear among young female consumers. The questionnaire covered the subjects' demographic information, duration and goal of climbing, purchase and suitability of outdoor wear, and preferred design for outdoor wear. As for the yearly situations, when they utilized outdoor wear, the biggest number of respondents chose "autumn" as the season for climbing. Most of the respondents were non-professional trekkers who enjoyed climbing as a hobby or for health. As for the size, the upper garment was 90 and 85 in the order, and the lower garment was 70 and 67 in the order. The pants were the most common item they owned, followed by round T-shirts, windbreaker jackets, zipup T-shirts, and waterproof jackets. They mentioned moisture absorption and dry fabric breathability as the basic functions required of outdoor wear. The subjects displayed a preference for partial details under the design category. They most preferred the hood-type jacket with a detachable stand collar, the sleeve hem with a partial rubber band and velcro strap, a T-shirt with a stand color and zipper, the waist fit with proper room, pants with a partial rubber band waist, and straight silhouette pants.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.23 no.5
• /
• pp.624-633
• /
• 2021

This study was intended to compare the comfort of wearing each type of commercially available bralette. The trial wearing experiment was conducted on five women in their 20s who wear an average Korean bra size of 70A. The experimental bralettes were of four types: a bralette with both hooks and pads and a bralette without both, a bralette with hooks but no pads, and a bralette with pads but no hooks. The wearing test results are as follows. First, in terms of functional satisfaction, the padded bralette provided the greatest satisfaction in supporting the chest from the bottom up and bringing it to the center, and the bralette without the pad provided the least satisfaction. In addition, the level of convenience of attaching/detaching was about twice as high in the bralette with hooks than those without hooks. Chest compression was found to be greater in bralettes without hooks than in those with hooks. In terms of the pressure on the shoulder strap and on the lower chest band, it was found that bralettes with hooks had a greater sense of pressure than those without. In the appearance characteristics test, the unpadded bralettes scored higher than the padded one in the matter of feeling embarrassed, because in unpadded bralettes, the nipples were exposed underneath the clothes . This study is meaningful in classifying the design of the bralette and evaluating the fit for each design in the absence of prior research on the bralette.

• Korean Journal of Applied Biomechanics
• /
• v.33 no.2
• /
• pp.73-83
• /
• 2023

Objective: Adolescent idiopathic scoliosis patients make up 40% of all scoliosis patients, and it is likely to increase even more because of the increase in sitting times due to the pandemic. Method: The subject of this study was a 16-year-old female student. The Cobb's Angle at initial value was 42° at the thoracic and 33° at the lumbar. The subject's height was 161.6 cm, and the type of scoliosis was 3CL. The brace was built with fabric materials with the size information from the X-ray information and actual measurements. The brace was made for the adolescents to wear for a longer time by making them put pressure on the same pressure points of the existing braces. The subjects were required to wear the device for 16 hours every day for three months. Additional features to check the pressure and time were synchronized through an app for easier communication and management with the responsible investigator. Results: After wearing the 3D Fabric brace, Cobb's angle changed from 42° to 33° at the thoracic and 33° to 23° at the lumbar. The ATR changed from 9° to 8° at the thoracic and 11° to 6° at the lumbar. As a result, the changes in the ATR angle do relate to the decrease of Cobb's angle, which made the angle of scoliosis that is bent in a three-dimensional way improve, making the height of the subject increase from 161.6 cm to 163.5 cm. Conclusion: Through this study, developing a brace that is made in the form of the 3CL to align the strap direction and putting pressure on the proper pressure points makes Cobb's angle and the ATR smaller. This means that there is a positive effect on the changes in height. A brace made of light fabric material is a good brace to help treat adolescent idiopathic scoliosis. There was an opinion that it is more comfortable to wear than existing braces, but it seems necessary to conduct a quantitative study about the before and after of wearing the brace and a survey for Korean specific cases.