• 한국의류학회지
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.39-49
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• 1982

This treatise deals with teen-agers' tendencies in selecting clothes, upon the recent liberalization measures of dress restriction. in regard to girl students' uniforms inmiddle and high schools, effective 1983. Results of my poll of 430 inquirees on the subject is outlined as follows; The surveyees have a preference for wearing box-style upper garments with a round-neck line and ribbon/tie collar. They also prefer to wear shirt cuffs mainly in set-in sleeve style. A straight skirt silhouetting the body line is anticipated to be longer in length than the knee line by 2 or 3 cm's. A dressy or sporty look would be most welcome, too. The ensemble of blue jeans and T-shirt blouse would be usual wear during school attendance. The reason why they like to choose trousers is considered to stem from the unisex look in fashion rather economical and practical purposes. Clothes material tends to be natural fabrics, single-colored and non-patterned. Color needs to be in a subdued mood, tuned with the same color and of neutral tint. In styling, emphasis is to be placed on femininity. In particular, the middle school girls wish to intensify 'Har-mony' in style while the high school misses are concerned with 'Individuality.'

• 한국소성가공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국소성가공학회 2005년도 춘계학술대회 논문집
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• pp.329-332
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• 2005

Cross rolling process is one of incremental forming processes to form an axi-symmetric shaped metal component. It can be classified into two types according to the shape of dies, which are a drum type (roll type) and a plate type (straight type). It can also be classified into a wedge type and a ramp type processes according to deformation characteristics of a material. The ramp type die is applied to plate type cross rolling process in cold forming process for forming of teeth of gear or bolt, while the wedge type die is generally utilized to drum type and plate type cross rolling processes in hot forming process. A shape of the ramp type die is usually same as final shape of a product at every section of a progressing direction, while the shape of the wedge type die has different shapes in a progressing direction. In this paper, a rolling of neck part in a ball stud component has been carried out using the plate type cross rolling process with a ramp shaped die. Forming characteristics have been performed using finite element analysis in order to obtain a proper preform for the ramp type plate cross rolling process.

• 한국작물학회지
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• 제51권6호
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• pp.539-543
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• 2006

Lodging is classified as root lodging caused by the loss of supporting force in the root, bending caused by the deformation of the stem and breaking where the stem breaks down as loads exceeding critical elasticity were applied. This research excluded breaking which is not in a state of equilibrium and tried to partition the level of lodging using an algebraic model in root lodging and stem lodging, or bending. When a vertical load was applied, the deformation of the stem of rice plant showed the form of a quadratic equation. The trace of the panicle neck in the process of lodging was an ellipse-shape. When loading was pure root lodging, the trace of the panicle neck became a circle of which culm length is the radius. When it was a pure stem lodging, the trace of the panicle neck is an ellipse of which major axis is culm length and minor axis is 0.64* culm length. When both stem lodging and root lodging occurred in a natural setting, the partitioning of lodging can be calculated by a formula using eccentricity of an ellipse, S=e*100/0.768(S is the ratio of stem lodging in the whole lodging, e is eccentricity of the ellipse). This method is expected to be useful in simple lodging partitioning. We could also calculate the partitioning of stem lodging and root lodging as units of angles as an accuracy method, by using a straight line calculated by differentiating a quadratic equation of stem deformation at the origin of the coordinates. These two methods for dividing root and stem lodging showed different values. However, each of them showed almost same values with different lodging degree in one plant.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제14권3호
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• pp.183-195
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• 1990

The author has studied the effect of clothes design to mask the dorsal curvature that is one of the commonest changes in elderly women. Body measurements including the body type and the status of dorsal curvature were perfor-med on 153 women of over 60 years of age, and then a body form to fit to the mean measure-ments was made to evaluate the effects of various designs to it. With 31 pattern designs modified by changing in their slash lines and gathers using darts, the diminishing effect of the rounded back were evaluated by means of sensory test. The results of this study can be summarized as follows: I . Results from the body measurements 1) The mean body type in elderly women was that of obesity. 2) With the advancement of age, the angle to indicate the degree of dorsal curvature as well as the angle to indicate the posture are increased. II . Concerning to the clothes design to diminish the shape of dorsal curvature 1) Among the designs by the position of darts, the basic pattern (Fig. 5-1-(1)) showed the best effect to mask the shape of dorsal curvature. 2) Out of the applied designs of princess lines, that in which the slash line is pointing toward the shoulder point (Fig. 5-2-(1)) seemed to be most effective. 3) What has angled princess line (Fig. 5-3-(1)) had the most diminishing effect among the waist darts and armhole princess lines. 4) Among the V-shaped designs, the slashed at the shoulder point (Fig. 5-4-(1)) had the best effect to lessen the shape of the dorsal cuuature. 5) Wider angle yoke had better effect to the narrow angle one among the designs with straight yoke, and that with downward direction (Fig. 5-5-(1)) showed the best effect. 6) Between straight wide angle yoke and curved yoke, that of curved one with downward direction (Fig. 5-6-(1)) had better effect as far as the masking effect of dorsal curvature is concerned. 7) Gathers around the neck showed better effect to those around the shoulder, and the more amount of gathers (Fig. 5-7-(1)), there was better effect. 8) The design with midline gathers at the level of horizontal slash line of armhole (Fig. 5-8-(1)) showed better effect to that with seperated gathers. 9) In case of design with gathers at the horizontal line of armhole, it showed the better effect with less amount of gathers in midline ones, but with more amount in the side ones. 10) Considering all 7 different designs with better effect in covering the shape of dorsal curvature, it was evident that the design with gathers was far better than the design with application of slash lines.

• 복식
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• 제64권3호
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• pp.77-92
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• 2014

The purpose of this research is to examine the expression methods of Haute Couture designers' high value-added jacket designs, In order to achieve this, the positions and sizes of the design component items of tailored jackets designed by Haute Couture designers from the 1940s to the 1970s were analyzed. The results of the analysis are as follows. First, the silhouette changed while leading the contemporaneous fashions, and such changes could be confirmed by the width and length of the jacket's shoulder, chest, waist, and hem that determine the silhouette. Particularly, the length of the chest changed which signifies that the depth of the armhole was playing an important role in the production of high value-added jackets in relation to the sleeves and the fit of jackets. Second, the position and the size of the dart are the components that can express the fit of a jacket and the designer's creativity, The starting point position of the dart and the position passing by waist, and the position of the end of the dart were placed in the position beyond B.P. depending on the designer's creativity and techniques, deriving the changes of the silhouette and creating high value-added jackets. Third, the tailored collar, which was a three-dimensional component made up of the upper collar, gorge line, lapel, and break line, was an important component that could express high value-added jackets. Changes in the width and the height of the break line position of the sides of the neck were represented as changes in the neck size of the collar, and changes in the vertex locations of the upper collar corner-point, the gorge line (the corner-point of the lapel and V zone) were also represented as diverse tailored collar designs. And the differences in the width and the length of each component of the collar were related to each other and represented as changes in the slope and angle of the collar outline. Fourth, the changes in sleeve designs of the jacket were in such items as the width of the sleeve opening, the width of the sleeve hem, and the length of the sleeve, and were represented as diverse sleeve designs such as widened sleeve opening types, and straight line types.

• 복식
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• 제63권3호
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• pp.1-16
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• 2013

Xiognu people were the first of the Central-Asian nomads to establish a nation in 209 B.C. They always moved around looking for places to breed their animals and fertile grounds, so they wore clothes made of fur and leather and covered their tents with felt from the livestock. This research studies on the literatures, costumes and the achievement of archaeological excavation. Furthermore, to investigate on costumes excavated of Xiongnu, we visited the Mongolian National Museum and the Hermitage Museum. A corn-hat made of felt, a felt hat with ear flaps and a golden crown with a bird on the top were unearthed from a tomb of Xiongnu in Inner mongolia. Women usually wore pigtails, and men wore pigtails or ponytails but they cut their hair short when holding a funeral. Many pigtails discovered in Noyon uul tombs can be considered as their funeral customs. The Xiongnu wore a round or v-neck caftan attached straight sleeves reaching knees in the left folded style, and because they always rode horses, having the length of the caftan not go past their buttocks would have made it more convenient for them. During the period of Western Han, Ho refered to Xiongnu and it became a common name for northern races. They used leather belts and an animal-designed buckle was found. Women commonly rouged their cheeks for a vivid and cute look, and many ornaments were excavated including bracelets, rings and decorations made of gold, silver, copper and jade, among which there were hair ornaments used to identify one's class. A horse pattern with wings and a horn of Golmod T20 was substitution for the Schythian use of deer. Patterns or shape of unearthed articles present in the Xiongnu culture in Noyon uul had a close relationship with Altaic, Greek and Persian cultures. The Xiongnu clothing was made of animals' skin and fur, woolen textiles and felt. It was folded to the left for upper garments, and the pants were adjusted using a belt and shoes were made of leather, which was very suitable for protection against the cold and horse riding. Mobility played a significant role in their clothing.

• 치과방사선
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.193-201
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• 1988

The purpose of this study was to investigate the variation in the length and shape of styloid processes and the relationships between the elongated styloid processes and the styloid process syndrome, using panoramic radiogrpahs and questionaires. The subjects were 342 patients consisted of 170 males and 172 females aged from 11 to 78 years, not showing facial asymmetry, who visited infirmary of dental college of Yonsei University. Also, the accuracy was determined for measuring the length of styloid processes from panoramic radiographs, using dried skulls. The results were as follows: 1. The length of styloid processes was magnified approximately 1.1 times, but there was no statistically significant differencies in the magnification rate of length between right and left side. 2. The mean radiographic length of styloid processes was 29.72±7.92㎜ in males, 27.93±6.69㎜ in females, and 28.82±7.37㎜ in total. And elongated styloid process (>30㎜) was seen in 31.3% of total subjects. 3. The growth in the length of styloid processes was completed in the third decade. 4. The most common shape of styloid processes was straight followed by segmented and bent form. The incidence of segmentation was reduced with increasing age. 5. The 74% of subjects with elongated styloid process (>30㎜) showed symptoms of the styloid process syndrome. The most frequent symptom was headache followed by discomfort in the neck when turning the head from left to right, tinnitus or earache, vague facial pain, discomfort or pain when swallowing, feeling that an object is caught in throat.

• 복식
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• 제57권4호
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• pp.9-17
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• 2007

Somatotype is human body shape and physique type which can be classified not only by the size, but also by the shape or posture of the body. Postural variations in the alignment of the back, shoulder, and neck can have an adverse effect on the fit of garments designed to hang from the shoulders. There have been some previous studies about the lateral upper torso by analyzing photographic measurements. In this study, 3D body scan images were used to classify the side somatotype of upper lateral method even though they are major data in the classification of upper torso. This study focused on following objective.; 1) To apply new and developing technology into the apparel industry analyzing 3D body scan images. 2) To classify upper laterla torso using the data through the new improver technology, 3D body scanner. 3) To propose basic materials for well fitted garments for each type of figure. The test subjects for this study were two hundreds nine female aged 19 years and up who were recruited in Cornell university body scan research team. Seventeen Variables(12 angles, 5 lengths) out of 3D body scan data were measured based on these landmarks and applied to analyze. The result of factor analysis indicated that 6 factors were extracted through factor analysis and orthogonal rotation by the method of Varimax and those factors comprise 62.5% of total variance. And the somatotype of upper body is classified into 3 types of figures according to cluster analysis; Bent forward posture, Straight posture, Swayback posture. Future study could be addressed about the somatotype of body by the age group based on the large database with wide variety of age.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제20권2호
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• pp.282-297
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• 1996

The effective construction for ready-made clothes is one of the central concerns of both consumers and manufactuers in today's apparel industry. In order to reduce the burden of stocks and increase clothing fitness, systematic information on typical body sizes and somatotypes is essential. The purpose of this study i-: to provide basic data on young women's somatotypes for form designers and pattern makers. The subjects of the survey were 310 women of 18 to 26 years old. The study collected 84 anthropometric data for each Person. The data was analyzed by using of the multivariate method. The factor analysis was utilized in regard to the 65 items obtained from anthropometric measurement respectively. The principal component analysis was applied to the data with orthogonal rotation after extraction. The factor scores used in the factor analysis became the basis of determining the value of each variable of the cluster analysis. The cluster analysis was applied for identifying typical somatotypes. Ward's minimum variance method was applied for the purpose of extracting distance metrix by the standardized Euclidean distance. The element forming each cluster can be subdivided into several sets by crosstabulation which is obtained by the fastclus of the SAS. This research has demonstrated 3 distinctive types of silhouette contour of the trunk. Incidentally it also identified 4 of the lower body from the waistline to thigh contour respectively. The discriminant analysis showed that the most significant discriminant factor of the trunk classification were side neck point -1 scapular -1 waistiline length and waist girth. In Korea, the average somatotype of female college students tends to be tall, slim and straight. Reviewing the relationship between the classifications of three parts of body, they are related to each other to some extent but their distribution are not constant. Therefore, in view of clothing construction, a proper separation of the body surface is a necessity.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제20권2호
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• pp.46-58
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• 2016

Architecture and Fashion mutually affects the shape and appearance of the other as an art of space according to the hybrid trends. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to find the correlations between the characteristics of traditional architecture types in Southeast Asia and modern fashion. Firstly, characteristics of the types obtained through the theoretical consideration of Southeast Asian architectural tradition include vertical, symmetrical, geometrical, epeated and continual structure. On the basis of these characteristics analyzed from 2013's S/S to 2015's F/W collection of Alexander McQueen, Gareth Pugh, Victor & Rolf, designers with strong creative and experimental minds who juxtaposed designs of two opposing points as well as hybrids since 2000, the following formativeness exists. First, the vertical structure of high floor is represented as a straight silhouette, a color contrast, vertical cut or wrinkle. Hence, it impresses verticality, rhythm, etc. Second, symmetrical structure of the gable roof is represented as a trapezoidal shape starting from the shoulder line or neck line widened into sleeves, impressing symmetry, dynamism, etc. Third, the geometry of the assembled is represented as vertical and horizontal bands or pattern pieces like puzzle, impressing geometry, three-dimensional, etc. Fourth, repeated structure of the weaving pattern is represented as repetitive patterns of woven fabric or printing techniques. Thus, it impresses repeatability, harmony, etc. And lastly, continuous group structure is represented as a connection of collars or hem-lines, as well as a crossing of fabric that impresses continuity, liquidity, etc.