• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.22 no.2
• /
• pp.209-224
• /
• 2014

This study aims to compare the ease of shirt patterns in the men's wear market that have been constantly developing, and to analyze the fitness and appearance through the 3D virtual try-on system. The study selected three industrial patterns and two educational materials of classic-fit and slim-fit shirts for a total of ten items. The experiments involved virtual wearing, a stress contact point perspective map, and appearance evaluations. First, the ease differed significantly in the chest, waist, and sleeve cap height according to the patterns. Second, based on the stress, contact point, and transparency, there was ease in the order of Nam, D-brand, J-brand, Park, and S-brand in the classic-fit shirts while the order of D-brand, Nam, J-brand, Park, and S-brand resulted in the slim-fit shirts. Third, in the appearance evaluation, higher points resulted in the order of J-brand, Park, S-brand, D-brand, and Nam in both classic-fit and slim-fit. The results showed that proper ease differs greatly by shirt-fit and target age. Also, the shirts with more ease tended to be evaluated less favorably in the appearance evaluation. Based on the results, the study suggests that the proper ease in chest circumference is 18cm for the classic-fit shirts and 6 cm for the slim-fit shirts.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.22 no.3
• /
• pp.357-367
• /
• 2020

This study collected the basic data required to develop a slim-fit jeans pattern for upper grade elementary school girls. First, a fit evaluation was made by selecting five slim-fit jeans of ready-to-wear brands. Subjects were four girls aged 11-12 with an average body size that evaluated the appearance and motion functionality of five brands of jeans. Five experts also evaluated their appearance. Second, pattern sizes were analyzed and compared with the average size of upper grade elementary school girls by measuring the pattern sizes of five brands jeans. As a result, Brand A received a high score in appearance and motion functionality. Brand E scored high with Brand A in appearance, while Brand E had the lowest score in motion functionality. For most of the five brand jeans, (+) ease was added to include a wide range of body sizes for upper grade elementary school girls, but the hip circumference, thigh circumference, and knee circumference of Brand E jeans were smaller than the average size of girls. The (-) ease was applied to make the figure look slim, which resulted in a high appearance score. However, since Brand E received a low score in the motion functionality, it could be seen that the (-) ease was not suitable for subjects although the material was stretchable. The result of this study will be used to develop a slim-fit jeans pattern suitable for upper grade elementary school girls.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.22 no.4
• /
• pp.605-618
• /
• 2014

This study aims to compare the ease of men's slim pants patterns, and to analyze the fit and appearance through the 3D virtual garment system. The study selected four educational materials and one industrial pattern of slim pants for a total of five items. The CLO 3D Modelist program was utilized to carry out the appearance evaluation through virtual wearing and opacity, and a comparison was performed regarding the clothing pressure when the virtual model was standing and walking. The results of our comparison of the patternmaking for slim pants showed that pattern C pants had the greatest ease on the waist circumference, while B pants showed no ease. The C and E pants also had the most ease on the hip measurement. In the appearance evaluation, A pants received the most favorable results, followed by D, E, B, and C, in descending order. The clothing pressure appeared to be mainly red on the waist, crotch, and hem when standing in all pants, so the clothing pressure was high. While walking, the stress appeared to be different for the left and right parts of the body, and the most significant difference was observed on the thigh area.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.17 no.1
• /
• pp.93-101
• /
• 2015

This study aims to suggest the patternmaking method of men's slim-fit six-panel jacket sloper in their 30's. The researcher collected four kinds of existing slopers and carried out appearance evaluations twice. The researcher's sloper was developed by modifying and supplementing the existing sloper with high scores from the evaluations. The results are as follows: first, when comparing the four kinds of existing slopers, dimensions and patternmaking methods of 18 areas, especially width of back chest and side chest, were varied according to the existing slopers. Second, the researcher's sloper had excellent scores in the appearance evaluations such as placements of side line on the chest, waist, hip line, measurement in dimension from the center back hip line and from waist line, and appearance of neck line. Third, the suggested sloper are as follows: the ease on the chest is 10.5 cm, 8~10 cm extends for the jacket length, the measure in dimension from the back waist is 2.2 cm, dart intake at the back side is 4 cm, dart intake at the front side is 1.5~2 cm, and dart intake at the front waist is 1 cm. This suggested six-panel jacket sloper is expected to be useful for the various slim-fit jacket designs which have the side panels.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.19 no.3
• /
• pp.101-112
• /
• 2015

Because young men's slacks are becoming more slim-fitting today, this study attempts to identify room for improvement by comparing and analyzing the patterns of men's slacks in the literature and those of manufacturers. Selected for the study are two patterns from the literature and one from manufacturers (Slacks A, B, C); those from studies are slim silhouette pants with no tucking around the waist at the front. Subjects for the Fit tests and the pattern designs were men in their twenties with average body shapes in accordance with the figures in Size Korea 2010. Pants were made from muslin fabric and the Fit tests were carried out with three subjects and a panel of five experts to evaluate comfort and appearance. The analysis of the patterns revealed that Slacks A were the longest followed by C and then B. Slacks C had the most girth ease, and Slacks B were the slimmest in both length and girth. Movement tests showed Slacks A to be the most comfortable followed by B and then C. The appearance test found that Slacks B were the most attractive, followed by A, and then C. The fits at the front, back and sides of all three pants were more or less the same. We suggest that more studies be done on pants patterns adjusting them for proper ease and using elastic fabric in order to maintain the slim fit and also to be comfortable to wear.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.46 no.2
• /
• pp.321-330
• /
• 2022

This study analyzed the difference between 2D image and 3D virtual clothing images based on stripe arrangement to obtain fundamental data for slim appearance. First, the slimming effect according to the three types of stripe ratio was examined. Subsequently, the slimming effects of seven types of one-piece dress designs according to the stripe location were analyzed. Subjective ranking was evaluated. The width items and radius of curvature were measured for the image's respective parts. Consequently, in 2D image and 3D virtual clothing images, the one with the narrowest stripe ratio was evaluated as the slimmest; however, the conditions for the slimming effect were different. In the seven one-piece dress designs, a difference was apparent in the ranking of the 2D image and 3D virtual clothing images. In the 3D virtual clothing image, arranging the stripes on the entire garment proved inefficient. The stripes were curved according to the curvature of the human body, creating an optical illusion that differed from that of the 2D image.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.51 no.8
• /
• pp.51-60
• /
• 2001

The purpose of this study was to clarify that the obesity and the body cathexis influence on brassiere and girdle attitudes. The data were collected from 263 female college students using questionnaire. The three body types; slim type (37.6%), standard type (55.6%) and obese type (6.8%) were categorized by the obesity. The results could be summarized as follows. 1. The whole body was segmented as 5 parts: leg and hip girths, abdominal & upper arm girth, face & neck, limbs length & stature and breast. The brassiere & girdle attitudes were identified as 4 factors : "avoidance of wearing". "beauty pursuit", "body-making pursuit" and "brand preference". 2. While the body cathexis and appearance interests of the slim type showed highly, those of the obese type showed lowly. 3. While the obesity and appearance interests influenced the brassiere & girdle attitudes excepting "body-making pursuit", the body cathexis: partially influenced them. This study will provide feasible marketing data and implications for activation of foundation garment industries.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.17 no.1
• /
• pp.105-115
• /
• 2015

This study aims to compare the ease of men's single-pleated pants patterns, and to analyze the fit and appearance through the 3D virtual garment system. The researchers selected five(four educational materials and one industrial pattern) slim-fit single-pleated pants which is the current fashion trend in menswear. The CLO 3D Modelist program was utilized to carry out the appearance evaluation through virtual wearing, opacity, and clothing pressure. The results showed that D pants had the greatest ease on the waist circumference, while C pants had the least ease. The E pants had the greatest ease on the hip circumference, then B pants and C pants showed less ease. Also, the E pants had the longest on the pants length, then D pants showed the shortest. In the appearance evaluation, A pants received the most favorable results, followed by D, B, E, and C pants, in descending order. The clothing pressure appeared to be mainly red on the waist, crotch, and hem in all pants, so the clothing pressure was high. From the results, we can understand that each of the 5 single-pleated pants patterns has different ease amount and silhouette.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.18 no.2
• /
• pp.216-224
• /
• 2016

Recently, the interest in a garment that accentuates a fit and slender body continues to be highly desirable. Customers frequently want to wear a slim designed jacket that fits well, reflecting the trends of being young and slim. Accordingly, this research collected information on brands with ready-to-wear slim fit tailored jackets that target female customers in their 30s. By identifying the jacket pattern design and production state by brand, and evaluating the appearance when wearing the jacket, I was able to draw up the following conclusions. First, the fit highlights many problems because of the difference between the model size of brands that targeted domestic women in their 30s and the standard somatotype of them. This can be solved by considering the somatotype of women in their 30s when choosing the models. Second, the relative simplicity of the pattern should allow a slim fit tailored jacket to be produced that fits the front, back and side well. This would lead to the development of a jacket that would fit better as well as allowing for ease of movement. Similar to this, the model size of domestic brands changes frequently and customers prefer the size of a slim model instead of the size suitable for a target's somatotype. This results in a limit on the levels of satisfaction regarding brand targets for body types. Accordingly, it is hoped that this research will become the standard data for the development of a slim fit tailored jacket that will fit women in their 30s well.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.18 no.3
• /
• pp.91-103
• /
• 2014

Shirts which have been a inner-wear in men's suit in the past, are being changed into an item that 20's men utilize to their individuality. Dress shirts have gotten out of its shape, becoming tight and slim with activity and fashion trend. In this study, two patterns of fitted dress shirts in a clothing construction text book were compared with the pattern of an apparel company with regard to the size tolerance and appearance silhouette; this comparison was performed through a fitting test and an appearance evaluation. According to the study, size tolerance of chest girth and waist girth were about 6~8cm and 10~18cm, respectively. Neck girth of the collar was tight in both the fitting test and appearance evaluation. Thus, the measurement value of the neck base girth had to be used for the collar pattern making. Moreover, approximately 35cm is a moderate size for the width on the upper arm in sleeve. Therefor the factors such as size tolerance of waist girth, height of sleeve cap, slim sleeve width and measurement value of neck base girth are being considered for the pattern making of fitted dress shirts.