• 패션비즈니스
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• 제26권1호
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• pp.30-40
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• 2022

This study aims to provide basic information on the changes in lower body measurements and shapes of women in their 20s for developing better fitting slacks patterns and a more applicable sizing system that can be widely utilized for women of all ages. Factor and cluster analysis were performed on 1,360 women's direct measurement data within the age group from the 5^th (2004) and 7^th (2015) Korean Human Body Measurement Investigation. The factor analysis identified four factors and explained 82.54% of the total variance; Factor 1, horizontal measurements of lower body; Factor 2, vertical lengths of lower body; Factor 3, measurements of leg and hip areas; Factor 4, lengths of hip and crotch areas. The cluster analysis categorized the lower body shapes of each age group into four shapes; Shape 1, a petite lower body with short legs; Shape 2, a long lower body with medium built; Shape 3, an obese abdomen and legs; Shape 4, a short and slim lower body. Shape 4 (36.5%), Shape 2 (31.2%), Shape 1 (27.8%), and Shape 3 (4.5%) were placed in the order of frequency from the highest to lowest among all the age groups. The findings of this study showed gradual changes in the lower body measurements and shapes of women in their 20s and relevant physical features of each age group. They can be utilized for developing women's slacks patterns with better fitting and more comfort.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.157-166
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• 2009

This study was conducted to evaluate the differences in external appearances and functional qualities between the slacks which were patterned on existing designs and on a new design in order to improve on their level of comfort of ready-made clothes for abdominally fat women. Five abdominally fat women in their 60's were chosen as experimental participants. Twenty-four external evaluation items, and seven different actions involving six moving parts of the body were investigated with a 5-level scale in the repeated wearing test. The results were analyzed by statistical methods. The newly designed pattern in this study was definitely superior to the other two patterns(L-type and K-type) on the external appearance evaluation. The newly pattern removed a waist belt and a dart from the front part of the garment and gave surplus space around the waist. It prevented superfluous wrinkles at the abdominal region and thighs. The superfluous wrinkles at the side regions also disappeared due to the length (inseam) reduction from waist to crotch. The newly pattern made the center-line of the back side slightly sloped to the main pattern in order to remove the drooped line. The newly pattern showed the highest score in the functional test of several actions. It was due to the reduction of the length from waist to crotch as well as the belt width. It made waist-line movement better, and made it easier and more comfortable to sit down. The newly pattern also showed the highest score in the functional test classified by specific movements of parts of the body for the same purpose. The slacks which were made of elastic materials showed better results than the non-elastic ones on external appearances and functional test items. It showed that the elastic materials played a better role in the increase of functional action of abdominally fat, aged women. This study suggests that the newly designed slacks pattern could give abdominally fat, aged women better external features and a more comfortable fitting sensation. As well, the results were significant as basic data to produce ready-made and/or tailer-made garments.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제5권1호
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• pp.145-156
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to improve the fitness of Korean manufactured apparel products being exported to China and to provide for the basic data useful to the development of a torso prototypes for the Chinese women. For this purpose, Chinese college women aged between 18 and 24 were sampled to test the fitness of the Korean manufactured apparels for the Chinese women sample and address the problems of unfitness and thereupon. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; As a result of testing the fitness of the Korean manufactured apparels for the Chinese women, it was found that Chinese women felt more or less comfortable for the front of the jackets, but felt less comfortable with their side and back. Such a finding suggests that the Chinese women's postures are more turned back than the Korean women's. And also for the slacks, lack of a crotch length causes unnecessary pulls and creases from the back part to the crotch of a pair of slacks and the side line was not suitably placed. For this reason, the differences between the body shapes of Chinese and Korean women should be thoroughly considered when drawing the patterns to export to China.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제13권4호
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• pp.124-136
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• 2009

This study was focused on classifying lower-body trunk and revealing the lower-body characteristics of the Chinese males in their 20s through 40s for their slacks pattern design. Compared with the 20s, the subjects in their 30s and 40s had small vertical and big horizontal sizes and showed a somatotype difference through a horizontal change. According to the size of absolute values, the lower body of Chinese men was "tall and normal trunk"(43.9%). Based on the shape of index values, Type 3(40.3%) was representative with average hip-surface length, waist-hip width difference and long upper hip. While Type 3 was seen a lot in the 20s(51.8%), 30s and 40s were each represented by Type 2(47.1%) with the smallest waist-hip width difference, average upper hip, and long hip-surface length and Type 1(45.9%) with small waist-hip width difference, average upper hip, and short hip-surface length. As this study is confined to Ningbo City of Zhejiang Province and has a small number of subjects, the generalization of the findings should be more serious. Further research will be centered on the development of slacks patterns in consideration of the body type changes.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제7권6호
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• pp.140-158
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• 1999

The purposes of this study are to examine the characters of the lower body shape in the middle aged women and to make slacks pattern on the base of four difference body shapes. The lower body shapes were classified into 4 types on the basis of their lateral view silhouettes. The slacks patterns were based on the lower body shape characters and resulted in followings. In “Type 1” of the right body shape with the standard protrusion of abdomen and hips, little difference from conventional patterns was seen in experiment pattern, in which the front waist girth was W/4+0.5㎝+0.5㎝+fold(2.5㎝) and the back waist girth W/4+0.5㎝-0.5㎝+dart(3.5㎝). The front hip girth was defined as H/4+2.0㎝+0.5㎝ and the back hip girth as H/4+2.0㎝-0.5㎝ due to its increased ease amount produced by abdominal fat deposition. In the experimental pattern of “Type 2” with prominent hips, the front and back differences of the waist girth and the hip girth and the hip girth were defined as 1.0㎝ and 2.0㎝ separately. Accordingly, the front waist girth was W/4+0.5㎝+1.0㎝+fold(2.0㎝), the back waist girth W/4+0.5㎝-0.1㎝+dart(6.5㎝), the front hip girth H/4+2.0㎝+1.0㎝ and the back hip girth H/4+2.0㎝-1.0㎝. In “Type 3” with the prominent abdomen and the flat hips, the front waist girth was set up as W/4+0.5㎝+0.5㎝+fold(4.5㎝) for the increased front fold amount and the back waist girth was W/4+0.5㎝+0.5㎝+dart(3.0㎝). The front hip girth was made as H/4+2.5㎝+0.5㎝ and the back hip girth H/4+2.5㎝-0.5㎝. In “Type 4” with prominent abdomen and hips, considered were ① the increased front fold amount due to the abdominal protrusion, ② the increased back dart amount and the decreased back dart length owing to the hips prominent and ③ the front and back differences of waist and hip girth for the lateral view silhouette. Therefore the front waist girth was defined as W/4+0.5㎝+2.0㎝+fold(5.0㎝), the back waist girth as W/4+0.5㎝-2.0㎝+dart(4.0㎝), the front hip girth as H/4+2.0㎝+1.0㎝ and the back hip girth as H/4+2.0㎝-1.0㎝. The sensory evaluation of appearance and comfort was appeared more suitable on the experiment pattern than on the conventional pattern.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제36권2호
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• pp.121-130
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• 1998

The purpose of this study was construction of bell-bottom blue jeans according to change of flare line and investigate the effects clothing pressure according to various movements of the legs. In this study, movements of leg were classified by M1, M2, M3, M4.(M1:erecting, M2: leapfrogging position, M3:sit-on-one' keens position, M4:Traditional nobel-sitting position) The results were as follows: As usings the leg surface shell by the adhesive paper taping method, basic slacks pattern and blue jeans patterns according to change of flare line was constructed. The order of clothing pressure of the different patterns is C(the flare line is on the calf of the leg)>B(the flare line is on the knee)>A(the flare line is on the thigh). Clothing pressure in the knee point was highest and when the flare line was on the calf of the leg, clothing pressure showed high.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제15권2호
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• pp.256-267
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• 2013

This study is conducted to improve the fitness of Air Force winter service uniforms pants through the development of a pants pattern drafting method and automatic pattern drafting program for mass customization. The initial study pattern drafting method is formed through an analyses of 4 kinds of conventional pants pattern drafting methods for education and 3 kinds of conventional pants patterns of Air Force apparels. The initial study pattern drafting method is converted into the final study pattern drafting method after twice conducting a wearing test. To verify the final study pants pattern, a motion adaptability evaluation, an ease amount evaluation and an appearance evaluation are conducted. The results of the final study patterns were better than conventional winter service uniforms in the motion adaptability evaluation and the appearance evaluation. However, the results show similar values between the final study patterns and conventional winter service uniform patterns in the ease amount evaluation. An automatic pattern drafting program was developed based on the final study pattern drafting method. The program allowed the achievement of customized pants patterns through the placement of customer body sizes into the size input window. It also provided two kinds of ease amount and two kinds of waist belt level options.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제40권1호
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• pp.97-113
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• 2016

This study develops pant patterns using body shape, measurement and shell mesh data to decide optimal women's pants according to styles with excellent size, fit and shape for different individuals and silhouettes. Standard landmarks, lines, triangles and structures were set on a 3D scanned lower body shell to represent women in their twenties and flattened as a 2D pattern. Patterns were created and analyzed according to culotte, formal, slacks and tight type considering crotch shape, location of the crotch point, and adjusting waist darts. Flattened patterns were rotated to compare existing methods. The crease lines were then set through the hip protrusion point and compared. The main factor of the pant pattern were extracted, total rise, crotch depth, crotch width, angle of center line, shape of the center line curve, the thigh width, the amount of waist dart, and crease line position. With going tight style from the culotte, the fits are closer to the figure with minimized thigh circumference, the dart amount decreases, the crotch depth increases, the crotch extensions were shorter, and the angle of the center back increased. The total rise is U shape for culotte and is closer to V shape as the silhouette tightens. T-test of appearance evaluation of the developed pant pattern were conducted after analyzing measurements and shapes of each styles. The results of the developed patterns were superior to existing patterns in accordance to hip line between body and pants as well as appearance evaluation. We found systematic mechanisms among pattern factors that create various pant silhouettes. Evidence on classification of the silhouettes of traditional types of pants were explained objectively through the process of playing out 3D forms.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제6권5호
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• pp.634-640
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• 2004

Nowadays, the use of apparel CAD system is important to the mass production of ready to wear. Especially, computer-based grading is the most important process to improve the fitness of clothes and to reduce the time needed to make various size pattern. The purpose of this study was to suggest a standard sizing system for high school boys' pants and to suggest a grading method according to the sizing systems. The subjects were 217 high school boys of 16 to 18 year-old. The size intervals of waist girth and hip girth were 3 cm and 4 cm respectively. The sizing system, which had frequencies more than 4%, was classified 8 cases. Among them, 71-92 and 71-88 size were the most frequent size and were adopted the basic size for the two types of grading. According to the sizing system, hand-made patterns were manufactured. By measure of the each part of the slacks, 4 size's new grading-rule patterns were developed by each size. This result will contribute to clothing fitness of consumer and the amount of production.

• 대한인간공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 대한인간공학회 1997년도 추계학술대회논문집
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• pp.40-55
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• 1997

The purpose of this study are to examine the characters of the lower half body shape in the middle aged women and to make slacks patttern on the base of four difference body shapes as follows. The lower half body shapes were classified into 4 types on the basis of their lateral view silhouette, whose characters were summarized as followings. (1) "Type 1" meant the right body shape with the standard protrusion of abdomen and hips. (2) "Type 2" showed the body shape with prominent hips, which had the flat abdominal silhouette and the greatly curved hips silhouette. (3) "Type 3" was the body shape with the prominent abdomen and the flat hips, in which the frontal view silhouette of the abdomen was greatly curved and the rear view silhouette of hips is less curved. (4) "Type 4" was characterized with prominent abdomen and hips. The slaks patterns were based on the lower half body shape characters and resulted in followings. (1) In the type 1, little difference from conventional patterns was seen in experiment pattern, in which the front waist girth was W/4{\times}0.5cm+0.5cm+fold(2.5cm) and the back waist girth W/4+0.5cm-0.5cm+dart(3.5cm). The front hip girth was defined as H/4+2.0cm+0.5cm and the back hip girth as H/4+2.0cm-0.5cm due to its increased ease amount produced by abdominal fat deposition. (2) In the type 2 experimental pattern, the front and back differences of the waist girth and the hip girth were defined as 1.0cm and 2.0cm separately. Accordingly, the front waist girth was W/4+0.5cm+ 1.0cm+fold(2.0cm), the back waist girth W/4+0.5cm-1.0cm+dart(6.5cm), the front hip girth H/4+2.0cm+1.0cm and the back hip girth H/4+2.0cm-1.0cm. (3) In type 3, the front waist girth was set up as W/4+0.5cm+0.5cm+fold (4.5cm) for the increased front fold amount and the back waist girth was W/4+0.5cm+0.5cm+dart(3.0cm). The front hip girth was made as H/4+2.5cm+0.5cm and the back hip girth H/4+2.5cm-0.5cm. (4) In type 4, considered were $\circled1$ the increased fornt fold amount due to the abdonimal protrusion, $\circled2$ the increased back dart amount and the decreased back dart length owing to the hips prominent and $\circled3$ the front and back differences of waist and hip girth for the lateral view silhouette. Therefore the front waist girth was defined as W/4+0.5cm+2.0cm+flod (5.0cm), the back waist girth as W/4+0.5cm-20.cm+dart(4.0cm), the front hip girth as H/4+2.0cm+1.0cm and the back hip girth as H/4+2.0cm-1.0cm. The sensory evaluation of appearance and comfort was appeared more suitable on the experiment pattern than on the conventional pattern.