• 대한화장품학회지
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• 제30권3호
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• pp.329-343
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• 2004

최근 생활수준의 향상과 더불어 자연친화적인 제품을 사용하고자 하는 웰빙소비성향이 두드러지며 천연소재를 이용한 각종 생활용품이나 화장품의 개발도 매우 활발하게 진행되고 있다. 특히 민간에서 오랫동안 약재로 사용해 오던 식물들의 생리활성들이 피부과학적으로 입증되면서 그 식물들로부터 유효성분을 농축하거나 분리하여 화장품 등에 이용하고 있다. 또한 기능성 화장품(functional cosmetics)의 출현으로 소비자들의 인식도 높아져 피부의 생리활성을 향상시켜주는 천연원료를 첨가하여 미백(whitening), 주름개선(wrinkle improvement) 등의 효과를 나타내는 제품들도 많이 개발되어 왔다. 본고에서는 그 동안 연구되어져 온 천연물을 기능별로 분류하여 간략히 설명하고 화장품 천연원료로 개발된 fructan, Areca extract, Portulaca extract, Licorice extract, Dandelion extract, Ulmus extract, SC-glucan, Arbutin, Sophora extract 등의 피부 생리환성 등을 소개하고자 한다.

• 대한화장품학회지
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• 제43권4호
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• pp.321-327
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• 2017

본 연구는 기존의 인공적으로 합성된 유기 자외선 차단제를 대체하는 안정적인 식물유래 천연 자외선 차단제(BHC-S)를 개발하기 위하여 수행하였다. 땅콩싹추출물, 병출추출물 및 곰피추출물로 구성된 천연 자외선 차단제(BHC-S)는 합성 자외선 차단제인 Parsol MCX-XR (OMC)와 동등 수준의 자외선 차단 효과를 가질뿐만 아니라, 피부에 대한 안전성을 가지며, 주름개선 등 다기능성 효과를 가지는 것으로 확인되었다. 이로써, 자외선 차단 및 항노화을 위한 천연 화장품 원료로서의 이용이 가능할 것으로 판단된다.

• 한방안이비인후피부과학회지
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• 제22권2호
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• pp.82-91
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• 2009

Objectives : The purpose of this study is to investigate whitening effects and anti-wrinkle effects of a few 80% ethanol extracted herbal medicines. Methods : In the first study, a few 80% ethanol extracted herbal medicines were screened for their inhibitory activities against the tyrosinase. In the second study, a few 80% ethanol extracted herbal medicines were screened for their inhibitory activities against elastase. Results : 1. We showed 28%, 27% and 19% inhibitions of mushroom tyrosinase at 500 $\mu$g/ml concentration of ASR, AIF and ABR extracts and they were showed higher anti-tyrosinase activity than arbutin's. We also could observe that the decreased mushroom tyrosinase activities in RR, CML, LR, AGR and TH extracts. 2. RR, AF and ABR (final concentrstion 1 mg/ml) were appeared 60%, 98%, 83% of inhibitions of elastase activity, and they were showed higher anti-elastase activity than that of ursolic acid. We also could observe that the decreased elastase activities in AIF, AR, LR and CML extracts. Conclusions : These results suggest that ASR, AIF and ABR extracts contribute to the anti-melanin activities and represent potential sources of whitening agent, and RR, AF and ABR extracts contribute to the anti-elastase activities and represent potential sources of anti-wrinkle agent. These results suggest that some herbal medicines could be strong potential sources of inhibition about anti-aging and whitening effects for the skin.

• Journal of Pharmaceutical Investigation
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• 제29권4호
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• pp.279-285
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• 1999

Retinoids in anti-wrinkle cosmetics are widely used for the treatment of the photoaging skin these days, but very unstable in the presence of water. Multilamellar liquid crystal vesicles consisted of $poly(oxyethylene)_{15}oleyl$ ether $(POE_{15}OE)$ or $poly(oxyethylene)_{15}stearyl$ ether $(POE_{15}SE)$, cetostearyl alcohol (CSA) and cholesterol or oils were prepared to increase the stability of retinyl acetate or retinyl palmitate. $POE_{15}SE-CSA-Water$ systems were more unstable than $POE_{15}SE-CSA-Water$ systems due to the bended structure of oleyl groups. For the modification of vesicles, cholesterol was added. The enthalpy values were decreased reaching to zero and the water permeability of systems was decreased, but the stabilizaton of retinyl acetate was not greatly improved. The stability of retinyl acetate may depend on its location in the structure. Various oils were added for further stabilization and isopropyl myristate was most effective. In practice, retinyl palmitate showed better stability in the same vesicle than retinyl acetate, and the improved vesicles could be used for the anti-wrinkle cosmetics

• Korean Journal of Acupuncture
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• 제26권4호
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• pp.107-118
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• 2009

Objectives : This study was performed to investigate physiology, pathology and clinical applications for cosmetology in Traditional Chinese Medicine. We hope most clinicians practicing cosmetic acupuncture to understand theoretical background well and to treat cosmetic diseases more diversely by this paper. Methods : We collected useful informations from 35 papers in Chinese at website www.cnki.net about TCM treatments including acupuncture, moxibustion and herbal medicine. And we could see important factors connected with physiology, pathology and clinical applications within this field. Conclusions : Liver, lung, stomach, mental disorders and yin-deficiency constitution were connected each other in cosmetic physiology. Blood stasis and congestion were thought highly in cosmetic pathology. In clinical applications, wet cupping therapy on the acupoints located in the back line of Governor Vessel(GV), ear-acupuncture, acupuncture using local facial acupoints, pharmacopuncture, moxibustion were used diversely for each case with cosmetic disorders. Especially, local acupoints and remote acupoints were selected at the same time for wrinkle care. And studies on plastic surgery sequelae, dark skin, acne and melasma were more published than those on wrinkle care.

• Journal of Microbiology and Biotechnology
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• 제26권7호
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• pp.1224-1233
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• 2016

The present study assessed the effects of an aqueous extract of Acanthopanax koreanum root (AE) and of AE following fermentation by lactic acid bacteria (Lactobacillus plantarum and Bifidobacterium bifidum) (AEF) on human skin fibroblast HS68 cells exposed to ultraviolet B (UVB) irradiation and oxidative stress. AEF effectively antagonized the senescence-associated β-galactosidase staining and upregulation of p53 and p21^Cip1/WAF1 induced by UVB or H₂O₂ treatment in HS68 cells. It also exhibited excellent antioxidant activities in radical scavenging assays and reduced the intracellular level of reactive oxygen species induced by UVB or H₂O₂ treatment. The antioxidant and antisenescent activities of AEF were greater than those of nonfermented A. koreanum extract. AEF significantly repressed the UVB- or H₂O₂-induced activities of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 and -3, overexpression of MMP-1, and nuclear factor κB (NF-κB) activation. This repression of NF-κB activation and MMP-1 overexpression was attenuated by a mitogen-activated protein kinase activator, suggesting that this AEF activity was dependent on this signaling pathway. Taken together, these data indicated that AEF-mediated antioxidant and anti-photoaging activities may produce anti-wrinkle effects on human skin.

• 대한화장품학회:학술대회논문집
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• 대한화장품학회 2003년도 IFSCC Conference Proceeding Book I
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• pp.61-72
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• 2003

In cosmetic area, retinol is prominent ingredient for anti-wrinkle but unstable against light, heat, oxygen and so on. Therefore the stabilization of retinol is required. Here, we capsulated doubly retinol in the SLM(Skin Lipid Matrix) that makes three dimensional lamellar structure similar to skin, after formation of primary liposome (retinol-nanoemulsion). First, we make primary liposome from retinol / hydrogenated lecithin / polysorbate20 / caprylic ＆ capric triglyceride / ethanol / and so on, and the mean diameter to 70 nm, using microfluidizer passed three times at 800 Bar, repeatedly. Then we produce DC-liposome (doubly capsulated-liposome) that was encapsulated primary liposome with SLM made of hydrogenated phosphatidyl choline / caprylic ＆ capric triglyceride / 1, 3-butylene glycol / ceramide3 / cholesterol /etc. We measured for color stability against light and heat with chromameter. As a result of this experiment, we observed DC-liposome was more than from 1.5 to 3 times as stable as general liposome. Livability of retinol has improved from 2 to 6 times when we analyzed it by HPLC. Also, penetration effect of DC-liposome has improved.

• 대한화장품학회:학술대회논문집
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• 대한화장품학회 2003년도 IFSCC Conference Proceeding Book II
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• pp.319-329
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• 2003

Ursolic acid (UA) and oleanolic acid (OA) are pentacyclic triterpenoids which are widely distributed in plants, and their derivatives are aglycones of many naturally occurring saponins. It is known that pentacyclic acids may possibly enhance the mechanical barrier functions of cell membranes in plants. Recently, it has been reported that OA and UA have interesting biological activities on skin, such as anti-inflammatory and anti-wrinkle activities. Since triterpenoids are extremely insoluble and their solubility problem limits skin-care application, OA and UA were encapsulated in liposomes via micelle-to-vesicle transition to overcome poorly soluble property and enhance biological efficacy. Optimal molar ratio of OA to lecithin was found to exist for producing liposomes of small hydrodynamic size and liposomal suspensions without recrystallized precipitation of OA. From electron micrograph and dynamic light scattering studies, reconstituted OA-containing liposomes without severe mechanical treatment showed small hydrodynamic size about 150 nm. Wide-angle X-ray diffraction coupled with dynamic light scattering revealed that optimal amount of OA in liposome was 25.4 mole %. In biological evaluation, OA-containing liposome significantly increased filaggrin and transglutaminase as markers of keratinocyte differentiation in epidermal layer of hairless mouse, whereas ursolic acid-containing liposome did not show noticeable increase of filaggrin and transglutaminase compared to empty liposome. It is concluded that nano-scaled liposomes containing triterpenoids were spontaneously prepared by vesicular transition from mixed micelle and liposomal triterpenoids can enhance skin absorption of triterpenoid and biological efficacy.

• 한국식품과학회지
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• 제37권6호
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• pp.989-996
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• 2005

본 실험은 대두 추출물과 홍삼 농축액 분말 혼합물인 APB-03(AmorePacific Beauty-03)의 경구반복투여에 대한 피부주름개선 효과를 평가하기 위하여 hairless mouse에서 경구 반복투여 및 UV 반복조사를 통한 효능평가시험을 실시하였다. 정상군(Control group)과 UV 대조군(UV control group), UV/APB-03 저용량군(UV/APB-03(XI) group), UV/APB-03 중간용량군(UV/APB-03(X5) group)과 UV/APB-03 고용량군(UV/APB-03(X10) group)을 두고, 경구로 주 5회 반복 투여하며, 광노화를 유발하기 위하여 주 3회 UV를 조사가 병행되었다. 시험 기간 중 임상증상, 체중변화 및 사료 음수 섭취량 등을 관찰하고, 2회의 피부주형을 채취하여 영상 분석을 실시하였으며 실험 종료 후 피부조직을 채취하여 병리조직학적 검사를 실시하였다. 시험물질을 투여한 모든 동물에서 시험 전 기간을 통해 사망한 동물은 없었으며, 본 시험물질에 의한 것이라고 인정되는 임상증상, 행동이상 및 체중변화 등도 관찰되지 않았으며, 부검시에도 본 시험물질의 투여에 기인한 것으로 사료되는 어떠한 육안적 병변도 관찰되지 않았다. UV 조사 기간 중, 육안으로 관찰 시 정상군에 비해 UV 대조군의 피부주름 증가가 뚜렷하였으며, APB-03을 투여한 군은 UV 대조군에 비해 주름 증가가 현저히 감소하였으며, 정상군과 비슷할 정도로 피부주름 상태가 양호하였다. 8주 및 12주에 제작된 replica를 image analyzer 분석평가를 실시한 결과, APB-03을 경구 반복 투여한 실험군은 UV 대조군에 비해 전체적으로 주름이 감소하였으며, 실험 12주의 UV/APB-03 고용량군의 피부주름은 UV 대조군에 비해 통계적으로 유의성 있게 감소하는 것을 알 수 있었다(p<0.01). H&E(Hematoxylin & Eosin) stain을 실시한 결과, UV 조사에 의한 표피 및 진피, 피하지방층에서의 손상에 대해 APB-03의 치유능력을 관찰할 수 있었다. 이상의 실험 결과를 종합해 볼 때, 암컷 hairless mouse에서 APR-03의 경구 반복 투여 시 UV 조사로 유도된 광노화의 억제 및 피부주름예방효과가 확인되었다.

• 대한화장품학회지
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• 제48권4호
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• pp.373-383
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• 2022

활성산소로 인한 염증 유발과 그로 인한 장벽손상은 꾸준히 주름생성의 원인으로 지목되어 왔다. 본 연구에서는 오갈피나무속에 속해있는 지리산오갈피와 가시오갈피, 오갈피나무, 오가나무 4종의 추출물에 대한 항산화, 항염증 및 피부 장벽개선, 항노화 관련 기능성 화장품 소재로서의 활용가치를 검증하고자 유효 지표성분 탐색과 효능 분석을 수행하였다. 먼저, 오갈피나무속 식물인 지리산오갈피와 가시오갈피, 오갈피나무, 오가나무 각각을 50% 에탄올을 용매로 추출, 농축, 동결건조 하여 시료를 제조하였다. 유효 지표성분탐색을 위해 주요 지표 성분인 eleutheroside E와 오갈피나무속에서 주로 검출되는 폴리페놀류 중 chlorogenic acid, caffeic acid 에 대하여 고성능 액체크로마토그래피를 통해 성분 함량을 측정하였으며, 오갈피나무속 중 지리산오갈피에서 eleutheroside E와 chlorogenic acid의 함량이 가장 높은 것을 확인하였다. 항산화활성은 DPPH 라디칼 소거활성이 지리산오갈피에서 가장 높았으며, 항염증 효능의 경우 LPS로 염증이 유발된 대식세포 내 NO 생성 억제 효능은 가시오갈피, 오가나무, 오갈피나무 추출물 100 ㎍/mL에서 각각 25%, 26%, 32% 일 때 지리산오갈피 추출물 100 ㎍/mL는 40% 억제 효능을 보였고 pro-inflammatory cytokine으로 알려진 IL-6 발현 억제 효능은 가시오갈피, 오가나무, 오갈피나무 추출물 100 ㎍/mL 농도에서 각각 20%, 36%, 23% 일 때 지리산오갈피 추출물 100 ㎍/mL는 41% 억제 효능을 보였다. 또한, 지리산오갈피 추출물 100 ㎍/mL에서 피부장벽 관련 인자인 filaggrin, involucrin의 발현이 각각 2.5 배, 1.6 배 증가되었으며, 주름관련 인자인 콜라겐분해효소는 29% 억제 효능을 나타내어 오갈피나무속 4 종 중 지리산오갈피는 피부의 염증 억제와 장벽강화, 주름개선용 화장품소재로써 활용가능하리라 판단된다.