• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.29 no.2 s.43
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• pp.131-147
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• 2003

In the 21st century, the development of cosmetics is led to pursue the high functionality of cosmetics with excellent effectiveness and safety. As Cosmetic Act took effect in 2000, functional cosmetics is provided in the law. As a result, the research and development of functional cosmetics has continually increased, and the number of patent applications in functional cosmetics has also rapidly increased as a plan for preoccupying in the functional cosmetics age. Now, the cosmetic industry has a great interest in developing anti-wrinkle cosmetics among functional cosmetics, because women's desire for having young resilient skin has increased since Korea entered an aging society thanks to the advanced medical technology. The patent application trends of anti-wrinkle cosmetics at home since 2000 particularly show the rapid increase in the applications in natural plant extracts. It may be because Korean consumers preference of vegetable cosmetics has resulted in the development of raw materials based on the traditional medicine. As for the existing preparation such as Retinoid or Ascorbic acid, the patent application itself will be an essential technical element in the future because patent applications are filed in the field of a preparation of cosmetics for stabilizing ingredients, reducing skin irritability or promoting absorbance, and in the field of cosmetic formulation technology. As there are many studies on the causes of skin wrinkles, it is expected that new raw materials of cosmetics can be developed due to new mechanisms, and that the number of patent applications in new technologies will increase due to a change in the thought of cosmetics accompanied by the integration of cosmetics with biotechnology using Genetic Engineering, including the practical application of the medicine previously used far treating skin diseases to an anti-wrinkle agent and the mass production of active ingredients of cosmetics.

• Korean Journal of Medicinal Crop Science
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• v.27 no.2
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• pp.143-150
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• 2019

Background: Skin is an organ that protects the human body from various environmental stimuli that can induce immune system activation. Skin aging can be largely divided into two categories: physiological aging, which is caused by the a decreased physiological function of the skin and structural changes with aging, and photoaging, which is caused by the chemical stress induced by external stimuli such as ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Methods and Results: The objective of this study was to investigate the anti-wrinkle and UV protective effect of catechin-rich green tea extract (CGTE) in activated keratinocyte (HaCaT cells) and UV-induced skin damage in hairless mice. The results showed that CGTE inhibits the tumor necrosis factor-alpha interferon-gamma ($TNF-{\alpha}+IFN-{\gamma}$)-induced expression of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 in HaCaT cells. In addition, the CGTE treatment significantly reduced wrinkle formation, epidermal thickness, collagen deposition, and transepidermal water loss in dorsal skin irradiated with UVB. However, the ${\beta}$-glucosidase activity was significantly increased. The CGTE treatment inhibits mRNA expression and enzyme activity of MMP-2 and MMP-9 in the dorsal skin irradiated with UVB. Conclusions: It is expected that CGTE can be effectively used as a functional food and cosmetic ingredient to improve skin moisture retention and reduce wrinkle formation.

• Journal of Pharmaceutical Investigation
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• v.34 no.3
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• pp.193-199
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• 2004

The decreasing effect of wrinkle on the pressure sensitive adhesive hydrogel patches containing ulmi cortex extract and sorbitol as the drug for anti-wrinkle were investigated. In this study, hydrogels were prepared by the crosslinking reaction of acrylic polymers and aluminum ions produced by L(+)-tartaric acid hydrolysis of the dihydroxy aluminum aminoacetates. The inhibition concentration of ulmi cortex extract on the collagenase exhibited at 0.01%. Furthermore, the moisturizing effect of hydrogel patches formulated with sorbitol was higher than that without it. In vivo animal test in hairless mouse showed that the ulmi cortex-loaded hydrogel patches had about 31.2% of anti-wrinkle effect compared to blank (before attaching the patches). Human test showed that only 33% of subjects showed the decreasing of wrinkle during 8 weeks. In conclusion, the model pressure sensitive adhesive hydrogel patches in this study would be pharmaceutically applicable for the wrinkle treatment on the facial skin.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Applied Pharmacology
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• 2007.11a
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• pp.153-158
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• 2007

Background: Naturally occurring antioxidants were used to regulate the skin damage caused by ultraviolet (UV) radiation because several antioxidants have demonstrated that they can inhibit wrinkle formation through prevention of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) and/or increase of collagen synthesis. We examined the effect of oral administration of the antioxidant mixture ("L-Skin Care") on UVB-induced wrinkle formation. In addition, we investigated the possible molecular mechanisms of photoprotection against UVB through inhibition of collagen-degrading MMP activity or through enhancing of pro collagen synthesis in mouse dorsal skin. Methods: Female SKH-l hairless mice were orally administrated "L-Skin Care" (test group) or vehicle (control group) for 10 weeks with UVB irradiation by three times a week. The intensity of irradiation was gradually increased from 30 to $180mJ/cm^2$. Microtopographic and histological assessments of the dorsal skins were carried out at the end of 10 weeks to evaluate wrinkle formation. Western blot analysis and EMSA were also carried out to investigate the changes in the balance of collagen synthesis and collagen degradation. Results: Our "L-Skin Care" significantly reduced UVB-induced wrinkle formation, accompanied by significant reduction of epidermal thickness, and UVB-induced hyperplasia, acanthosis and hyperkeratosis. Oral administration of "L-Skin Care" significantly prevented UVB-induced expressions of MMPs, mitogen-activated protein (MAP) kinases and activation of activator protein (AP)-1 transcriptional factor in addition to enhanced type I procollagen and transforming growth factor-$\beta$ (TGF-$\beta$) expression. Conclusion: Oral administration of "L-Skin Care" significantly inhibited wrinkle formation caused by chronic UVB irradiation through significant inhibition of UVB-induced MMP activity accompanied with enhancement of collagen synthesis.

• Journal of Applied Biological Chemistry
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• v.60 no.1
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• pp.61-68
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• 2017

In this study, extracts from Caryopteris incana Miq. (C. incana) were investigated to assess anti-oxidation, skin-whitening and anti-wrinkle activity. The total phenolic compounds of C. incana extracts with water and 80 % ethanol showed 7.69 and 12.50 mg/g respectively. Antioxidation activity of C. incana extracts was measured by using 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), 2,2-azinobis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid (ABTS), protection factor (PF), and Thiobarbituric acid reactive substances (TBARs). At concentration of $200{\mu}g/mL$, the DPPH free radical scavenging activity of water and ethanol extracts were 84 and 92 %, respectively. ABTS radical scavenging activity of water and ethanol extracts were both at approximately 99 %. Antioxidant PF of water and ethanol extracts were 1.56 PF and 1.67 PF, respectively. The TBARs of water and ethanol extracts were 62 and 82 %, respectively. In anti-wrinkle and skin-whitening activity, 80 % ethanol extract had more outstanding effect than water extract at concentration of $200{\mu}g/mL$. The levels of elastase and collagenase inhibitory activity related with anti-wrinkle were 58 and 89 % in ethanol extract. The tyrosinase inhibitory activity related with skin-whitening was 13 % in ethanol extract. The astringent effect of ethanol extract was 50 %. Throughout the results, C. incana extracts showed an excellent effect on anti-oxidation, skin-whitening and anti-wrinkle activity. Therefore, C. incana extracts can be used as a new material for cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.31 no.3 s.52
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• pp.213-218
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• 2005

Recently, with the remarkable increase in elderly persons and improvement of skin care technique, the requirements of customer for anti-aging care have become very important. Also, after cosmeceutical-product law was done in 2001, the major interesting field in cosmetic industry has been focused to developing anti-aging materials having safety and efficacy by basic science. In this review, we ill introduce the trend of anti-aging research and materials to prevent wrinkle or improve elasticity of skin.

• The Journal of Korean Medicine Ophthalmology and Otolaryngology and Dermatology
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• v.29 no.3
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• pp.124-133
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• 2016

Objectives : Recently, the demands for the effective and safe depigmentating and anti-aging agents of the skin have increased due to the medical, pharmaceutical and cosmetic reasons. The aim of this study is to search new materials from the traditional herbal medicines which inhibit the aging process of skin in vitro.Methods : Human dermis cell (HS68) was used to test the effect of Rhus verniciflua Stokes (RVS). 80% ethanol or water extracts were screened for their inhibitory activities against elastase. Elastase inhibition effect was tested by microplate reader instrument. And MMP-1 suppression effect of RVS was tested by western blot. These cells were investigated the viability by MTS assay. And also the inhibition effect of tyrosinase by RVS was tested.Results : RVS (final concentrstion 1 ㎎/㎖ appeared over 30% of inhibition of elastase activity. So we are investigated anti wrinkle effects of Rhus verniciflua Stokes look through MMP-1 inhibition activity, also Extracts of RVS showed higher anti-tyrosinase activity than arbutin as final concentration 1 mg/ml. These results suggest that herbal medicines could be strong potential sources of inhibition of anti-aging and whitening effects for the skin.Colclusions : RVS was the best suppressor candidate of elastase activity among other control oriental drugs. It was found that RVS did not have toxicity to cells. We found proper concentration of RVS to treat in HS68 culture and investigated not only wrinkle care effect but also whitening effect of RVS.

• Journal of Physiology & Pathology in Korean Medicine
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.691-698
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• 2008

The aims of this study are to search herbal medicines that have anti-aging, anti-wrinkle, anti-oxidant and whitening effects. This is preliminary study as a finding for excellent and specific natural agents which inhibit the skin aging and whitening formation. In this study, the articles and the documents, which have been published in domestically or internationally, have been searched and analyzed. Articles were gathered by taking advantage of Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea's documents, Pub med database, Korean Medical Database and Korean Studies Information Service System. Among the many species of herbal medicines, we selected the herbal medicines showing superoxide scavenging activities, and 1.1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl(DPPH) scavenging effects. The herbal medicines were showed anti-wrinkle effects on Metrixmetallo proteinase (MMP-1) inhibition activity and elastase inhibition activity. Also we found herbal medicines that have highly effect of tyrosinase inhibition, L- DOPA inhibition and melanin synthesis inhibition.

• Proceedings of the Plant Resources Society of Korea Conference
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• 2020.08a
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• pp.74-74
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• 2020

Skin is continuously exposed to a variety of environmental stresses, including ultraviolet (UV) radiation. UVB is an inherent component of sunlight that crosses the epidermis and reaches the upper dermis, leading to increased oxidative stress, activation of inflammatory response and accumulation of DNA damage among other effects. In the present study, the anti-wrinkle mechanism of Acorus gramineus callus culture supernatant (GB-AGS-PSC) was elucidated in UVB treated HaCaT keratinocytes. GB-AGS-PSC prevented the matrix metalloprotease 1 (MMP-1), elastin, and pro-collagen product and cytotoxicity and SOD inhibition. Quantitative polymerase chain reaction showed that GB-AGS-PSC-treated cells displayed dose-dependent increase in messenger RNA expression levels of Aquaporin 3 (AQP3), Keratin 1(KRT1), fillagrin, and hyaluronan synthase-2 (HAS 2) and decreased expression levels of matrix metalloproteinase-3, -9, and -13 in UVB treated HaCaT keratinocytes. Additionally, GB-AGS-PSC suppressed TNF-α, IL-1β, and IL-8 product for inflammatory responses in UVB treated HaCaT keratinocytes. Therefore, GB-AGS-PSC may be useful as an anti-photoaging resource for the skin.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.29 no.2 s.43
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• pp.37-65
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• 2003

Nowadays, we find out new anti-wrinkle-care-ingredients by in vitro searching methods using many kind of cell-culture-models for investigation of the effective anti-wrinkle-care-ingredients. But, theses new ingredients don't have effect on the human-model for anti-wrinkle, not likely on in vitro. In other words, there are so many differences between the effects on in vitro models and the clinical human models, practically. But, we actually have difficulty in putting all of the new anti-wrinkle-care-ingredients to the test on human models directly. To solve this problem, we have investigated that by using the artificial skin-culture-model or the animal model, In this lecture I will review the detail of assessment method far evaluation of anti-wrinkle agents in vitro and animal model and discuss the pros and cons of each method. Then I will present the results of Preclinical Screening trials, And especially animal model may be a good candidate for evaluation of anti-wrinkle agents.