• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.35 no.1
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• pp.65-72
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• 2009

Skin aging appears to be principally attributed to a decrease in both levels of Type I collagen and regeneration ability of dermal fibroblasts. It is important to introduce an efficient and safe agent for effective management of skin aging. To this end, we performed screening for anti-ageing agents and then found that vegetable peptones (pea and wheat) promoted cell proliferation of adult stem cells. Vegetable peptones may be considered as useful medium additives because it can supply nutrients, peptides, amino acids or growth factor analogues. This study was designed to investigate effects of vegetable peptones on cell proliferation/collagen production and their possible mechanisms in human dermal fibroblasts. In cell proliferation assay, vegetable peptones significantly promoted cell proliferation in a concentration-dependent manner. In addition, human COL1A2 promoter luciferase and type I procollagen synthesis assays showed that vegetable peptones induce type I procollagen production through the activation of COLlA2 promoter. In both TGF-${\beta}1$ luciferase reporter and ELISA assays, vegetable peptones was found to induce TGF-${\beta}1$ production, suggesting that vegetable peptones induce type I procollagen production through the activation of TGF-${\beta}1$. When applied topically in a human skin twice a day for an 4-week period of time, vegetable peptones did not induce any adverse reactions. Theretore, based on these results, we suggest the possibility that vegetable peptones may be considered as an attractive, wrinkle-reducing candidate for topical application.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.34 no.4
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• pp.259-268
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• 2008

In this study, the antioxidative effects, inhibitory effects on tyrosinase and elastase and components of Castanea crenata leaf were investigated. The free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl radical, DPPH) scavenging activity ($FSC_{50}$) of extract / fractions of Castanea crenata left was in the order: 50% ethanol extract ($13.6{\mu}g/mL$) < ethyl acetate fraction (6.2) < aglycone fraction (2.1). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities ($OSC_{50}$ of extract / fractions from Castanea crenata leaf extract / fractions on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}$-EDTA/$H_2O_2$ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The order of ROS scavenging activity was in the order: aglycone fraction (0.8) < 50% ethanol extract (0.5) < ethyl acetate fraction (0.3). The scavenging activity ($IC_{50}$ for ${O_2}^{{\cdot}\;-}$ (superoxide anion radical) generated by NBT method was in the order: ethyl acetate fraction (145.5) < aglycone fraction (65.5). The protective effects on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The ethyl acetate fraction exhibited the most prominent cellular protective effect (${\tau}_{50}$, $191.9{\pm}12.2\;min$ at $10{\mu}g/mL$). The inhibitory effect of aglycone fraction ($9.1{\mu}g/mL$) on elastase was higher than oleanolic and ($13.7{\mu}g/mL$). And the inhibitory effect of aglycone fraction ($21.6{\mu}g/mL$) on tyrosinase was higher than arbutin ($226.2{\mu}g/mL$). But 50% ethanol extract rarely exhibited the inhibitory activity on tryosinase and elastase. Flavonoids were contained in Castanea crenata left (96.3 mg / 100 g dried Castanea crenata leaf). And flavonoids contained in ethyl acetate fraction were kaempferol, quercetin, quercitrin, and so on. Quercitrin is the most abundant component. These results indicate that extract / fractions of Castanea crenata can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging free radical and ROS, Castanea crenata leaf extract/ fractions could be used as new cosmeceutical for whitening and anti-wrinkle products.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.858-864
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• 2011

The phenolic compounds of walnut extracts by various solvents were shown to be 24.3 mg/g in hot water, 34.4 mg/g in ethanol, 32.5 mg/g in methanol and 15.1 mg/g in acetone. In a comparison of phenolic compounds from hot water and different concentrations of ethanol, which are harmless, 60% ethanol extract and hot water extract were 34.7 mg/g, 24.6 mg/g. The electron donating ability (EDA) of walnut extracts in hot water and 60% ethanol were 78.1% and 80.6%. According to ABTS radical cation decolorization for antioxidant activity, hot water and 60% ethanol extract showed high antioxidant activities of 98.1% and 98.3%. Antioxidant protection factor (PF) were $1.1{\pm}0.2$ PF and $1.1{\pm}0.4$ PF in hot water and 60% ethanol extract. In TBARs inhibitory activity, each extract showed high antioxidant activities at 60% and 75%. Anti-inflammation effects of walnut extract were tested, and inhibition of NO was 50% in 100 ${\mu}g/ml$ phenolics. Inhibitory activity against iNOS and COX-2 were shown, through Western blot, to be 10% in 100 ${\mu}g/ml$ phenolics. Tyrosine inhibitory activity of 60% ethanol extract was 43%, and astringent effect of 60% ethanol extract was 55%. These results suggest that walnut extracts are suitable for functional cosmetics requiring skin-whitening and anti-wrinkle activity.

• Journal of Ginseng Research
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• v.31 no.2
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• pp.86-92
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• 2007

This study was carried out to develop health & functional food by using Korean red ginseng for prevention of skin wrinkles. Effects of Korean red ginseng on the collagen biosynthesis and inhibition of matrix metalloproteinase-I (MMP-1) activity in human dermal fibroblast were investigated. Crude saponin contents of Korean red ginseng water extract (WE), Korean red ginseng ethanol extracts (EE) and Korean Red ginseng purified extracts (PE) were 72 mg/g, 107 mg/g and 220 mg/g, respectively. We incubated human fibroblast cell with Korean red ginseng component by addition of l ${\mu}g/ml$, 5 ${\mu}g/ml$, 10 ${\mu}g/ml$. Amount of collagen biosynthesis was 1.86 ng/ml in control sample and 2.85 ng/ml, 2.05 ng/ml and 2.58 ng/ml in retinoic acid, EE and PE respectively. Furthermore, $ginsenoside-Rg_1$ and $ginsenoside-Rb_1$ were shown 2.01 ng/ml and 3.07 ng/ml. MMP-l activities of EE, PE, $ginsenoside-Rg_1$ and $ginsenoside-Rb_1$ were decreased to 92%, 94%, 91% and 78% respectively as compared with control. Cell proliferation were showed 84-96% in the Korean red ginseng components. The antioxidative SOD activities of the Korean red ginseng components were showed 28-69%, however it was lower than that of Vitamin C. From this results, we conclude that Korean red ginseng have a anti-wrinkle effect and $ginsenoside-Rb_1$ may be considered as a more effective component.

• Applied Chemistry for Engineering
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.178-184
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• 2011

In this study, the antibacterial, antioxidative and inhibitory effects of Allium cepa peel extracts on tyrosinase and elastase were investigated. MIC values of the ethyl acetate fraction of Allium cepa peel on especially, S. aureus among the skin resident flora (Staphylococcus aureus, S. aureus; Propionibacterium acnes, P. acnes; Pityrosporum ovale, P. ovale; Escherichia coli, E. coli) were 0.06%. The aglycone fraction showed more excellent free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl radical, DPPH) scavenging activity ($FSC_{50}=5.05{\mu}g/mL$). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities ($OSC_{50}$) of the ethyl acetate fraction and aglycone fraction in the luminol-dependent $Fe^{3+}-EDTA/H_2O_2$ system were 0.05 and $0.03{\mu}g/mL$, respectively. The cellular protective effect of the aglycone fraction on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes exhibited more prominent (${\tau}_{50}$, 480 min at $25{\mu}g/mL$). The inhibitory effects ($IC_{50}$) of the ethyl acetate fraction and aglycone fraction on tyrosinase were 9.16 and $8.68{\mu}g/mL$, the inhibitory effect ($IC_{50}$) of the aglycone fraction on elastase was $14.12{\mu}g/mL$ The transepidermal water loss of the cream containing 0.1% ethyl acetate fraction was decreased from $8.3g/m^2h$ in control to $6.8g/m^2h$ in the subjects applied with cream containing the ethyl acetate fraction. These results indicate that extract/fractions of Allium cepa peel can function as antioxidant in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging $^1O_2$ and other ROS, and protect cellular membranes against ROS, and possibly as antiaging agents. Allium cepa peel extract could be used as a new cosmeceutical for whitening and anti-wrinkle products.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition
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• v.45 no.3
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• pp.333-341
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• 2016

This study examined the beauty food activities of water and ethanol extracts from Tetragonia tetragonioides. Content of phenolic compounds extracted with water and 50% ethanol extracts were 3.29 mg/g and 4.14 mg/g, respectively. 1,1-Diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl free radical scavenging activities of water and ethanol extracts were 98.45% and 91.20%, respectively, at $200{\mu}g/mL$ of phenolics. 2,2'-Azinobis-(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) radical decolorization activity was 97.28% for water extracts and 97.83% for ethanol extracts at $100{\mu}g/mL$ of phenolics. Antioxidant protection factor (PF) was 1.77 PF for water and ethanol extracts at $200{\mu}g/mL$ of phenolics. Thiobarbituric acid reactive substances of water and ethanol extracts were 94.77% and 95.64%, respectively, at $100{\mu}g/mL$ of phenolics. Tyrosinase inhibitory activity, which is related to skin-whitening, was confirmed to be 34.96% for ethanol extracts at $200{\mu}g/mL$ of phenolics. Elastase inhibitory activity and anti-wrinkle effect of 50% ethanol extracts were 78.9% at $200{\mu}g/mL$ of phenolics. Collagenase inhibitory activity of ethanol extracts was 61.29% at $200{\mu}g/mL$ of phenolics. Astringent effect was not detected in water extracts but was 7.82% for 50% ethanol extracts at $200{\mu}g/mL$ of phenolics. Hyaluronidase inhibitory activity as a measure of anti-inflammation was confirmed to be 81.04% for water extracts at $200{\mu}g/mL$ of phenolics. Based on these results, Tetragonia tetragonioides extracts can be used as a functional material and functional beauty food with antioxidant effects.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.34 no.3
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• pp.233-244
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• 2008

In this study, the antioxidative effects, inhibitory effects on elastase and tyrosinase, and component analysis of Psidium guajava leaf extracts were investigated. The free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activities $(FSC_{50})$ of extract/fractions of Psidium guajava leaf were in the order: 50% ethanol extract $(7.05{\mu}g/mL)$ < ethyl acetate fraction $(3.36{\mu}g/mL)$ < deglycosylated flavonoid aglycone fraction $(3.24{\mu}g/mL)$. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities $(OSC_{50})$ of some Psidium guajava leaf extracts on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}-EDTA/H_2O_2$ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The order of ROS scavenging activities were 50% ethanol extract $(OSC_{50},\;2.17{\mu}g/mL)$ < ethyl acetate fraction $(0.64{\mu}g/mL)$ < deglycosylated flavonoid aglycone fraction $(3.39{\mu}g/mL)$. Aglycone fraction showed the most prominent ROS scavenging activity. The protective effects of extract/fractions of Psidium guajava leaf on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The Psidium guajava leaf extracts suppressed photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner $(1{\sim}10{\mu}g/mL)$, particularly deglycosylated flavonoid aglycone fraction exhibited the most prominent celluar protective effect ${\tau}_{50}\;107.5min\;at\;1{\mu}g/mL)$. Aglycone fraction obtained from the deglycosylation reaction of ethyl acetate fraction among the Psidium guajava leaf extracts, showed 1 band in TLC and 1 peak in HPLC experiments (360 nm). One component was identified as quercetin. TLC chromatogram of ethyl acetate fraction of Psidium guajava leaf extract revealed 5 bands and HPLC chromatogram showed 5 peaks, which were identified as quercetin 3-O-gentobioside (10.32%) , quercetin 3-O-${\beta}$-D-glucoside (isoquercitin, 13.30%), quercetin 3-O-${\beta}$-D-galactoside (hyperin, 11.34%), quercetin 3-O-${\alpha}$-L-arabinoside (guajavarin, 19.70%), quercetin 3-O-${\beta}$-L-rhamnoside (quercitrin, 45.33%) in the order of elution time. The inhibitory effect of Psidium guajava leaf extracts on tyrosinase were investigated to assess their whitening efficacy. Finally, their anti-elastase activities were measured to predict the anti-wrinkle efficacy in the human skin. Inhibitory effects $(IC_{50})$ on tyrosinase of some Psidium guajava leaf extracts was 50% ethanol extract $(149.67{\mu}g/mL)$ < ethylacetate fraction $(30.67{\mu}g/mL)$ < deglycosylated aglycone fraction $(17.10{\mu}g/mL)$. Inhibitory effects $(IC_{50})$ on elastase of some Psidium guajava leaf extracts was 50% ethanol extract $(6.60{\mu}g/mL)$ < deglycosylated aglycone fraction $(5.66{\mu}g/mL)$ < ethylacetate fraction $(3.44{\mu}g/mL)$. These results indicate that extract/fractions of Psidium guajava leaf can function as antioxidants in bioloigcal systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging $^1O_2$ and other ROS, and protect cellular membranes against ROS. And component analysis of Psidium guajava leaf extract and inhibitory activity on elastase of the aglycone fraction could be applicable to new functional cosmetics for smoothing wrinkles.

• Food Science and Preservation
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.393-401
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• 2016

The phenolic compounds extracted from Aster scaber were examined for their biological activities owing to their potential use in health and beauty food products. The phenolic content in water and 60% ethanol extracts were $11.1{\pm}0.11$ and $4.18{\pm}0.05mg/g$, respectively. The DPPH radical scavenging activities of the water and ethanol extracts were 87% and 91% at $50{\mu}g$ phenolics/mL, respectively. At the same phenolics concentration, the respective extracts showed 84% and 95% for ABTS radical decolorization activities and 95% and 97% for TBARs. The antioxidant protection factors for the water and ethanol extracts at $200{\mu}g$ phenolics/mL were 1.87 and 2.22 PF, respectively. Enzyme inhibitory activities of the water and ethanol extracts ($50{\mu}g$ phenolics/mL) were 50.8% and 69.4% on angiotensin converting enzyme, 91% and 80% on xanthine oxidase, and 24% and 89% on ${\alpha}$-amylase, respectively. The tyrosinase inhibitory activities indicating skin-whitening were 47% and 25% for the water and ethanol extracts, respectively. Anti-wrinkle effect of the water extract was relatively higher than that of the ethanol extract. These results suggest that the water and ethanol extracts of Aster scaber can be used as an ingredient in health and beauty food products.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.34 no.2
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• pp.83-92
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• 2008

In this study, the antioxidative effects, inhibitory effects on tyrosinase and elastase and components of Fagopyrum esculetum extracts were investigated. Fagopyrum esculetum used for this study is hulls and dehulled seeds. The free radical(1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl radical, DPPH) scavenging activities($FSC_{50}$) and reactive oxygen species(ROS) scavenging activities($OSC_{50}$) of extract/fractions from Fagopyrum esculetum were measured. The aglycone($3.5{\pm}0.0{\mu}g/mL$) and ethyl acetate fractions($0.2{\pm}0.1{\mu}g/mL$) of hulls showed the most effective scavenging activities. The protective effects on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The ethyl acetate fraction exhibited the most prominent cellular protective effect(${\tau}_{50},\;771.7{\pm}9.9 min$ at 10 ${\mu}g/mL$). The inhibitory effect of aglycone fraction of hull and dehulled seeds on tyrosinase were examined ($53.6{\pm}0.5{\mu}g/mL,\;35.6{\pm}0.4{\mu}g/mL$, respectively). And The inhibitory effect of aglycone fraction of hull and dehulled seeds on elastase were investigated($3.7{\pm}0.4{\mu}g/mL\;and\;6.0{\pm}0.7{\mu}g/mL$ respectively). But 50% ethanol extract rarely exhibited the inhibitory activity on tyrosinase and elastase. (+)-Catechin and (-)-epicatechin were contained in ethyl acetate fraction of dehulled seeds. And ethyl acetate fraction of hull contains flavonoids of hyperin, quercetin, rutin and so on. These results indicate that extract/fractions of Fagopyrum esculentum can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging $^1O_2$ and other ROS, and protect cellular membranes against ROS. Fagopyrum esculentum extract could be used as a new cosmeceutical for whitening and anti-wrinkle products.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.31 no.4 s.54
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• pp.349-357
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• 2005

New antioxidative substances for cosmeceuticals were screened from natural resources such as microbial metabolites, mushrooms, and medicinal plants. Four antioxidants were isolated from the fungal metabolite of Eupenicillium shearii and their structures were determined to be new phenolic compounds. The compounds were designated as melanocins A, B, C, and D. Melanocins $A{\sim}D$ exhibited free radical scavenging activity on DPPH and superoxide with $EC_{50}$ values of $21{\sim}94\;and\;7{\sim}84{\mu}M$, respectively, which were stronger activity than those of ${\alpha}-tocopherol$ and BHA. Melanocin A showed anti-wrinkle effects on the UV-irrated hairless mouse skin. A novel hispidin antioxidative compound designated as inoscavin A was isolated from the fruiting body of the mushroom, Inonotus xeranticus. Inoscavin A scavenged superoxide radical with $EC_{50}$ values of $0.03{\mu}g/mL$, and inhibited rat liver microsomal lipid peroxidation with $EC_{50}$ values of $0.3{\mu}g/mL$. Benzastatins $A{\sim}G$, the novel antioxidants isolated from the culture of Streptomyces nitrosporeus showed potent lipid peroxidation inhibitory activity with $EC_{50}$ values of $3{\sim}30{\mu}M$. A cyclopentene compound with strong hypopigmentary effect was isolated from the fungal metabolite of Penicillium sp. and identifed as terrein. Terrein significantly reduced melanin levels in a melanomacyte cell line, Mel-Ab. It showed 10 times stronger activity than kojic acid, but exhibited no cytotoxic effect even in $100{\mu}M$. It was suggested that terrein reduced melanin synthesis by reducing tyrosinase production by MITF down-regulation.