• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2011.11a
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• pp.33-33
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• 2011

Artificial silk that called "Ponggi (Gyeongsangbukdo, Korea) In-Gyeun" in Korea is entirely viscose rayon of which made main component refined larches and cotton linter. It also is natural fabrics with light weight, cool texture, free from the body and well ventilation property, so, feel good touch during the wearing. In addition, it often used as summer cloth and bedding because it has good absorbancy to perspiration and antistatic. The "Hanji", made of paper mulberry, is known as useful material for human. In this research focused on dyeability of Artificial silk/paper mulberry mixed fabrics using Dendropanax morbifera Lev.(called as "Hwangchil") Especially, the results were in comparison to the dyeing properties of Hwangchil with liquid/solid fermentation or not. As the results, The ${\Delta}E$ difference was dominated when the fabric dyed with fermentation by solid state at $60^{\circ}C$. And it was confirmed that the pH of fermented dye had an important influence in the coloration.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.47 no.2
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• pp.353-370
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• 2023

In this study, the performance of ultrasonic cleaners for ultrasonic washing, which is one of the wet cleaning methods, was evaluated. The washing performances of ultrasonic cleaners were compared with commercial washing machines under normal and wool courses based on different parameters such as detergency, wrinkle formation, fabric damage, dimensional stability, and germ removal ability. Cotton, silk and wool were used in this experiment. Results revealed that the ultrasonic washing detergency of cotton fabrics was lower than that of commercial washing machines under the normal course and similar to that of commercial washing machines under the wool course. Detergency of silk fabrics was similar under both normal and wool courses. In terms of wrinkle formation and dimensional stability, ultrasonic cleaners showed lesser wrinkles and lower shrinkage than commercial washing machines. Considering damage evaluation, ultrasonic cleaners more effectively removed soil without damaging fabrics compared with commercial washing machines. The bacteria removal rate of both cotton and silk was more effective than the wool course of a commercial washing machine. Thus, this study compares the performance of ultrasonic cleaners and commercial washing machines and provides meaningful results related to ultrasonic washing performance.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.450-456
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• 2006

The objectives of this study were to investigate physiological and psychological responses to the rustling sound of Korean traditional silk fabrics and to figure out objective measurements such as sound parameters and mechanical properties determining the human responses. Five different traditional silk fabrics were selected by cluster analysis and their sound characteristics were observed in terms of FFT spectra and some calculated sound parameters including level pressure of total sound (LPT), Zwicker's psychoacoustic parameters - loudness(Z), sharpness(Z), roughness(Z), and fluctuation strength(Z), and sound color factors such as ${\Delta}L\;and\;{\Delta}f$. As physiological signals, the ratio of low frequency to high frequency (LF/HF) from the power spectrum of heart rate variability, pulse volume (PV), heart rate (HR), and skin conductance level (SCL) evoked by the fabric sounds were measured from thirty participants. Also, seven aspects of psychological state including softness, loudness, sharpness, roughness, clearness, highness, and pleasantness were evaluated when each sound was presented. The traditional silk fabric sounds were likely to be felt as soft and pleasant rather than clear and high, which seemed to evoke less change of both LF/HF and SCL indicating a negative sensation than other fabrics previously reported. As fluctuation strength(Z) were higher and bending rigidity (B) values lower, the fabrics tended to be perceived as sounding softer, which resulted in increase of PV changes. The higher LPT was concerned with higher rating for subjective loudness so that HR was more increased. Also, compression linearity (LC) affected subjective pleasantness positively, which caused less changes of HR. Therefore, we concluded that such objective measurements as LPT, fluctuation strength(Z), bending rigidity (B), and compression linearity (LC) were significant factors affecting physiological and psychological responses to the sounds of Korean traditional silk fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.3 s.151
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• pp.447-457
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to document and preserve an unidentified textile purchased at a flea market. This study object is important because it is one of the very rare silk insert series from 1930s which were created for commercial use(as inclusion in cigarette packages). The investigation was conducted by researching the limited publications that discuss silk inserts, visiting many sites on the internet that offer such inserts for sale or catering to the collectors of these silk inserts, and especially visiting the collection of silk inserts, named the J.R. Burdick Collection, at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Several pieces matched the patches used in the study piece. But Buidick's description on time frame(1912-1915) did not indicate the full range of production of silk inserts. After the identification of object, the conservation treatment was carefully done using adhesives. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. The silk inserts of the study object were included as promotions by some company owned by the American Tobacco Company, probably at some time between 1934 and 1939. 2. The initial stage in the conservation treatment was mechanical surface cleaning using a vacuum cleaner. After vacuuming, humidification was conducted to reduce creases in the top of the object. The damaged areas were backed with stabiltax coated with a solution of Elvace 45675 since the fiber of this object was too deteriorated. 3. Adhesive treatments using Elvace showed satisfactory results: flexibility, strength, no damaging effects on the study object, removability without damaging the object.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.5
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• pp.159-169
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• 2000

The purpose of this study Is to research the clothing and textiles recorded in Heikemonokatary which was written from 1131 to 1198. The research materials are 36 kinds of men's clothes and ornaments, 6 kinds of women's things, 10 kinds of colorings and 6 kinds of textiles. The results of this study are as follow : 1. There were many advanced warriors' clothes. Especially the helmets and armors were very gorgeous. The shapes of warriors' knives, arrows, shields were concretely described. The women's clothes were mostly unchanged from Nara period and Heian period. Women wore clothes on their heads when they went out. 2. One particular thing in color is that the brown color of that period was navy blue which is symbolic of victory. There were some textiles which was woven with the boiled silk thread in the latitude and the raw silk thread in the longitude. Besides, the blackening of teeth, the bobbed haler of boys, and the celebration of one's corning of age were described in the book.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.1 s.110
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• pp.93-104
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• 2007

This study is considered about the fabrics culture of Baekje Period by analyzing the fabrics pieces at a inner part of the It-bronze shoes found at the tomb of King Mu-ryeong in 1971 AD. The analysis methods of the fabrics pieces are a photographing of fabrics pieces surface by VMS, Digital camera(Nikon Coolpix 995) and the analysis of samples by SEM, XRD and FT-IR. It is assumed this fabrics pieces are the inner shoes, which consisted of compound woven silk at outward, some of tabby and a hemp at inward and the braids for decoration, of the gilt-bronze shoes. The features are as follows. 1. All of compound woven silk are the warp-faced compound tabby of plain fabrics and the density is various from high to low one. Compound woven silk which is attached the gilt-bronze shoes of the tomb of King Mu-ryeong weaves in high density by a thick thread. The fibers material of compound woven silk prove to be a silk by the analysis of wrap samples by SEM, XRD and FT-IR. 2. Tabby are excavated under the condition which attached on reverse side of compound woven silk. Those ran classify two types. First, the fine weaving by high density of wrap and weft. Second, the loose warp weaving with one warp and some of weft. 3. Hemp is almost ramie by SEM analysis and the density is different. Ramie which supposed to be attached Guem has the very low density. In addition to, Ramie pieces, excavated in condition and weaved finely, proved the conspicuous weaving skill in Baekje period. 4. Various kinds of braid are found and these ones classifies by fiber material and entwining way. Two types out of these are the one of silk thread, decorates the upper, middle parts of compound woven silk shoes and the other of hemp thread, decorates the lower parts.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.10
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• pp.1228-1241
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• 2011

This research compares the change in berberine content in liquid dye and the color and dye uptake of amur cork tree dyed silk upon thermal degradation treatment. Thermal degradation of amur cork tree extract and liquid dye of standard berberine was carried out at room temperature, $4^{\circ}C$ refrigeration, and $100^{\circ}C$ oven conditions for 0-192 hours. Amur cork tree dyed silk was treated in a $100^{\circ}C$ oven for 0-240 hours. The berberine content in liquid dye was measured by the relative abundance of the berberine peak in the HPLC-MS chromatograms. The color and dye uptake of dyed silk was measured using K/S value and colorimetric data. The berberine content in standard berberine dye was 2.4 times that of the amur cork tree extract. A similar result was observed between the K/S value of standard berberine dyed silk and that of amur cork tree dyed silk. The berberine dyed silk showed the highest dye uptake after 120 hours in a $100^{\circ}C$ oven. This result was similar to the change in a berberine content in liquid dye in a $100^{\circ}C$ oven treatment. The change of the K/S value of amur cork tree dyed silk and berberine content of amur cork tree extract was similar up to 24 hours. The result suggests that there is a direct relationship between the color change of amur cork tree dyed silk and the berberine content in amur cork tree dye.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2004.04a
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• pp.296-301
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• 2004

We focused our research interests on the characteristic of silk fabrics dyed with green tea extracts and, moreover, revealed the catechin content of silk fabrics after dyeing with Korean tea extract by measuring the residues. Three kinds of green tea samples were taken between April and May, 2003, from Bosung(southern province in South Korea), in different terms as the first corp, the second corp, and the third corp. Before and after dyeing the silk fabrics with these extracts, catechins in the residue were analyzed by HPLC. Four kinds of Catechins, such as (-)-epicatechin(EC), (-)-epicatechin gallate(ECG), (-)-epigallocatechin (EgC), (-)-epigallocatechin gallate(EgCG) were isolated from Korean green tea extracts. Catechine contents in Korean green tea leaves depend on the making process such as heating and steaming, and the younger the richer. The absorbed catechins in sillk fabrics after dyeing followed in a decreasing order of EgCG>EgC>ECG>EC. We have found a 68% uptake of EgCG, and 116.8mg/g of EgCG in the silk fabrics after dyeing with 1% Korean green tea extracts.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.3-12
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• 2001

The dyeing powder drawn out from Dryopteris crassirhizoma by water was concentrated. Using this powder, the silk and the cotton fabrics were dyed and they measured with the K/S value, surface color, mordant quantity in order to evaluate the dyeability, antimicrobial and deodorant properties. The colorant of Dryopteris crassirhizoma was proved flavonoids by FT-IR spectrum. The K/S values of silk were much higher than those of cotton, the color yield of the silk and cotton fabric were most efficient the postmordanting method. The surface colors on the dyed fabric depended heavily upon mordants used or mordanting methods. For all cases, the value of the dyed fabric was generally dark. The chroma produced clear for the Al-mordant of silk and the Cu-mordant of cotton in the 3% concentration of mordants, the color difference was distinct when using the Fe-mordant. The K/S values of cationized cotton were much higher than cotton. The color fastness was significantly improved when mordants were added, In the case of the light fastness, Fe and Cu-mordants improved more than 1 level. The Cu-mordant showed the greatest antimicrobial and deordarant activity on both of the silk and the cotton.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.3_4
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• pp.444-451
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• 2004

This study was carried out to investigate the chemical and dyeing properties of Petasites japonicus leaf extract under the various extracting and dyeing conditions such as temperature, time, the ratio of water and pH, repetition of dyeing in silk and cotton fabrics with Petasites japonicus leaf. The results were as follows: 1. It was found that λ$_{\max}$ of color solution extracted by Petasites japonicus leaf has two peaks at 290nm and 323nm. 2. The optimum extracting conditions were studied at 10$0^{\circ}C$, 40min., pH 7 and 1 : 20(the ratio of water and Petasites japonicus leaf), the optimum dyeing temperature, dyeing time, dyeing pH and repetition of dyeing were 10$0^{\circ}C$, 60min., pH 7, repetitions of three times, respectively. 3. Silk and cotton fabrics dyed with Petasites japonicus leaf extract were colored yellowish orange. The colory Petasites japonicus leaf extract in silk and cotton fabrics were deeped by same-mordanting with aluminum potassium sufate and cupric sulfate. 4. Washing fastness of silk fabrics was 4∼5 grade, but cotton fabrics was 3∼4 grade, so washing fastness of silk fabrics washed with neutral detergent was excellent.