• 한국의류학회지
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• 제35권12호
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• pp.1507-1517
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• 2011

Berberine, palmatine, and Phellodendron bark dye was prepared in methanol for HPLC-DAD-MS analysis of liquid dye. Silk was dyed using berberine, palmatine, and Phellodendron bark dye prepared in water. The dye was extracted from the dyed silk using the HCl/methanol/water (2:1:1 v/v/v) solvent system with a slight modification. The liquid dyes and the dye extracted from the silk samples dyed with the three dye sources were examined using the HPLC-DAD-MS analysis to simultaneously detect berberine and palmatine from the plant dye and the dyeings. Colorimetric measurement was carried out using a spectrophotometer to examine the color and the intensities of berberine, palmatine, and Phellodendron bark dyed silk samples. From the liquid dyes, berberine eluted at 5.21 min with the molecular cation m/z=336 and the UV spectrum confirming that the product was berberine. Palmatine eluted at 5.12 min with the molecular cation m/z=352 and the UV spectrum confirming that the product was palmatine. From the silk dyed with berberine and palmatine dye, berberine and palmatine species eluted at 5.35 min and 5.24 min, respectively. From the silk dyed with Phellodendron bark, berberine and palmatine were detected simultaneously at 5.35 min and 5.26 min, respectively. All three dyes had yellow hue while palmatine dyed silk showed the highest hue and chroma. Palmatine dyed silk showed the highest K/S value that indicated the strongest color intensity and the highest dye uptake.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.120-134
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• 2015

This study aimed to determine the physical properties of silk and nylon fabrics that are treated with persimmon juice in accordance with irradiation time of ultraviolet spectrum. Persimmon juice dyeing has the advantage of using the tannin component of the persimmon. Tannin plays an important role in inhibiting photodegradation of fibers or polymers. Among fibrous materials, silk and nylon are prone to deterioration by light. Hence, this study aimed to reduce these weaknesses of silk and nylon by applying persimmon juice treatment. We accordingly carried out investigation and experiments on ultraviolet irradiation, and physical characteristics of treated fabrics. The persimmon juice treatment process led to increased weight and thickness. In addition, the air permeability of silk fabric was increased, as compared to the control specimen; whereas, that of nylon fabric was decreased. Both drape stiffness and flex stiffness of silk and nylon tended to be high in textiles processed with persimmon juice treatment, as compared to the control textile. Peak load and elongation at peak load of untreated samples clearly decreased in both silk and nylon fabrics with the increase of ultraviolet irradiation time, while those of persimmon juice treated samples increased. Furthermore, ultraviolet blocking ratio measurement indicated that the fabric specimens treated with persimmon juice blocked U.V. spectrum better than the control specimen.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제23권4호
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• pp.133-148
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• 2021

Due to the COVID-19 pandemic, many people started working from home while avoiding unnecessary going-outs. As the 'stay-at-home life' becomes standard daily life, the pajamas market is absorbing young consumers, especially targeting Generation MZ, by using one-mile fashion that breaks down the boundary with everyday clothes. Also, owing to the demand for environmentally-friendly textiles, based on the strengthened environmental regulations, the development of textiles considering the environment is expanding. Thus, the purpose of this study is to develop fashion pajamas using environmentally-friendly textiles targeting Generation MZ. After theoretically considering the current status of recycled PETs and the pajama market by referring to preceding research, relevant books, and Internet data, this study performed the process setting up the design concepts, developing textiles, developing textile designs, and developing pajamas designs. As a result, this study wove two kinds of mixed textiles using recycled PETs and silk with the concept of 'Going out pajamas', and designed a total four patterns to be applied to those textiles, then digitally printed them. Using the developed textiles, this study produced a total four kinds of pajamas that were practical, trendy, and also good to be used as clothes for going-out. The consumers who are exhausted from the limited environment of the COVID-19 pandemic, are requesting comfortable and trendy in & out door fashion. For this reason, the results of this study are significant in the aspect of suggesting the new-normal fashion trend for pajamas designs.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제23권8호
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• pp.1098-1109
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• 1999

This study was to examine the effects of textiles materials and wearing types on the thermal regulation responses of human, Cotton polyester wool silk and rayon were chosen as outerwears and acetate was selected as a lining. Blouse-skirt suits blouse-slacks suits and one-piece dress made of selected textiles were examined by human trials, Tests results were as follows ; 1 When subjects wore vlouse-slacks suits Tmsk was showed the highest value. There was a significant difference on Tmsk(p<0.05) when they wore one-piece dress. The temperature of microclimate inside clothing when subjects wore blouse-slacks suits showed the highest value and one-piece dress and then blouse-skirt suits in order. For blouse-skirt suits clothing without lining showed higher temperature of the back of microclimate inside clothing than clothing with lining except cotton(p<0.1) 2. There were no significant consistency of the increasing rates of thermal insulation of garment at fabric test and human trials among polyesterand silk.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제30권2호
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• pp.150-157
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to investigate the proper dyeing condition, color fastness and functionality of silk fabrics dyed with Zizania latifolia Turcz. FT-IR spectrum analysis suggests that colorants of Zizania latifolia Turcz. are tannins. The dyeing of the silk fabrics using Zizania latifolia Turcz. was very good even without pretreatment or mordanting treatment. Optimal dyeing conditions of silk fabrics were colorant concentration of 200%(o.w.f.), dyeing temperature of $100^{\circ}C$, dyeing time of 60 minutes and dyebath pH of 5.5. Color fastness of dyed silk fabrics to washing, rubbing, perspiration and light was 4~4-5, 5, 4~4-5(acidic), 4-5(alkaline) and 2 respectively. UV protection rate and deodorization rate of silk fabrics dyed with Zizania latifolia Turcz. were improved. Reduction rate(Staphyloccus aureus) of silk fabrics was excellent at 98.3%. As a result, it was confirmed that the Zizania latifolia Turcz. could be used as an eco-friendly functional natural dye.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제7권4호
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• pp.57-66
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• 2003

Cochineal dyeing was applied to natural fiber fabrics, cotton and silk fabrics, and synthetic fiber fabrics, nylon and polyester fabrics. Chitosan-pretreatment was applied to the fabrics in order to investigate the effect of chitosan treatment on the dyeing behavior. The effect of chitosan treatment on the mordanting was also investigated by incorporating Cu-mordant on the chitosan-treated or chitosan-untreated fabrics during the dyeing process.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제12권2호
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• pp.133-144
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• 1988

Silk fabrics were degummed and dyed in one bath under the condition of high temperature and high pressure and the results obtained were summerized as follows. 1. The degumming ratio is nearly the same as that of two bath method under the normal condition and the optimal condition is for 30 minutes at $120^{\circ}C$. 2. The dyeing absorption ratio is a little lower than that of two bath method. 3. The tensile strength and elongation are hardly shown the difference between two methods. 4. The fastness of the dyed fabric of one bath method is a little better than that of two bath method. (light, washing, rubbing) 5. The stiffness of the silk fabric treated by one bath method is a little harshier compare to that of two bath method.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제10권3호
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• pp.78-86
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• 2006

Coffee extract dyeing on silk fabric using various mordanting agents at different mordanting condition was studied in our previous research. Coffee extract dyeing can exert beautiful colors and have several advantages over the conventional natural dyeing. Since most of natural dyes are expensive for mass production, strongly season and source dependent, and hard to store, and therefore, coffee waste was used as natural dye to create beautiful colors in this study. Coffee waste is inexpensive and easy to store, and provide a comparatively regular quality regardless of season and source. The effects of dyeing condition such as dyeing temperature, dyeing time, and liquor ratio on dyeing characteristics of silk fabrics were investigated. Coffee extract dyed silk showed brilliant colors, and the colors were different with the kind of mordant. Cu, Sn, and Al mordanted silks showed golden yellow with subtle change of hue and value, while Fe mordanted silk showed a brownish green color upon coffee extract dyeing. As the dyeing temperature increased, the dyeability generally increased in all mordanted silk fabrics except Fe mordanted silk until $45^{\circ}C$. The dyeing temperature did not affect the dyeability of Fe mordanted silk fabric. As the liquor ratio increased, the dyeability showed a gradual increase in all mordanted silk except Cu mordanted silk. Cu mordanted silk fabric showed an abrupt increase in dyeability at liquor ratio1:150. The dyeing time effect can be separated into 2 stages. During the initial half an hour, the dyeability did not change significantly, and then, increased after 45 min. dyeing time duration. A further increase in dyeing time after 45 min. did not affect the dyeing efficiency in all mordanted silk fabrics except the Cu mordanted.

• 복식
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• 제49권
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• pp.49-63
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• 1999

This research utilized the Energy Dispersive X-ray Spectroscopy(EDS) and the Inductively Coupled Plasma Mass Spectrometry in the analysis of chemical elements present among the textiles exhumed from Kupori Hwasung-kun Kyunggi-do. The two research objectives were: first to examine the elements present and their percent presence in Kupori samples: second to investigate whether the elements are part of mordant substances which could have been used when dyeing the KUpori textiles in the past. To meet such research purposes standard silk fabric was dyed with Sophorajaponica using alum and iron mordants. For alum mordant unpurified general alum and potassium aluminum sulfate(AlK(SO4)2). iron sulfate(FeSO4·7H2O) were used, From the results of EDS and ICP-Mass analysis the following conclusions were drawn. 1 According to the EDS analysis 9 elements Ca, S, Al, Si, K, Fe, P, Mg and Na were detected. 2. ICP-Mass result of the mordant chemicas showed high amount of A, Al and k present in alum mordants and S and Fe present in iron mordants. 3. Comparison of the ICP-Mass results of the mordant chemicals and those of the standard dyed samples suggested that the amount presence of Al and Fe is a strong indication of the usage of alum and iron mordants respecticely in an unknown dyed textile. 4, In the washed Kupori textiles Fe showed a relatively higher rate of presence in the samples Therefore it can be conjectured that those Kupori textiles were dyed with iron mordant based on the result of the above number 3. 5. It is probable that the other elements detected from the Kupori samples were incorporated into the textiles as part of the soil debris produced from the degradation of the dead within the coffin or the earth debris. They can also be part of the inorganic compounds inherent in the silk textiles themselves before dyed. 6. Among the elements it is likely that Ca which showed a high degree of presence among the unwashed samples was part of the inorganic compound inferent in the silk textiles.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제36권3호
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• pp.324-334
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• 2012

In this research, the dyeing properties of $Lycopus$ $lucidus$ Turcz on cotton and silk fabrics were evaluated to establish a scientific database of natural dyes. The optimum dyeing conditions were identified with K/S values depending on the dyeing concentration, temperature, time, and pH. For the optimum conditions, the color changes for different synthetic mordants were observed as L, $a^*$, $b^*$ and H, V, C. The color fastness after dyeing and mordanting was also examined. Additionally, the antibiosis of $Lycopus$ $lucidus$ Turcz was examined. The results were as follows: For the cotton, the optimized dyeing conditions were 300% (o.w.f.), $50^{\circ}C$, 40 min., and pH 5. For the silk fabric, the conditions were 450% (o.w.f.), $70^{\circ}C$, 60 min., and pH 4. The K/S value of dyed cotton improved about 1.03-2.78 folds after mordanting. The fabric color was yellow in the absence of mordanting, while it was reddish yellow after post-mordanting with FFC. Although the color changed with the mordanting method and mordant, the overall hue was yellow. Thus, $Lycopus$ $lucidus$ Turcz appears to have the potential for use as a natural dyeing material for a yellow hue. The K/S value of the dyed silk fabric improved about 1.05-1.40 folds after mordanting. The fabric showed a reddish yellow color when pre-mordanted with Al and Cu. The washing and dry-cleaning fastness of the cotton and silk fabrics were at the 4-5 level. The light fastness of the cotton improved after mordanting; however, pre-mordanting was more effective than post-mordanting or the absence of mordanting. The dyed cotton, silk fabrics showed excellent antibiosis.