• 복식
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• 제58권1호
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• pp.9-16
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• 2008

Six of the Imdang tombs containing remains with imprints of ancient fabrics and textiles were investigated. Within the tombs, a total of 120 pieces of imprinted fabrics and textiles were investigated, all of which belongs to $5{\sim}6C$ Shilla period. All of the hemp textiles examined exhibited similar characteristics found in ancient hemp textiles: they were woven by plain weave technique with s-twist threads. The examined silk could be categorized into plain woven silk, cho, and double woven brocade, all of them made with non-twisted threads and degummed silk. The density of the plain woven silk ranged from 39 threads to 144 threads. Cho was also found, which showed similar characteristics to those of Gaya and Bakjae tombs. One piece of 2/1 twill weave on plain ground and 12 pieces of double woven brocade were found and their average density was $97.4{\times}33.4/cm$ with denser warp than weft. The various thickness of the threads were observed in the examined plain braid. The silk with twining technique showed thicker warp than weft. This is similar to the techniques of fabrics found in the King Muryeoung's Tomb of the Bakjae period. Fabrics with the purple-like color were observed in the some of the double woven brocades and also on the plain woven silk imprinted on the remains. The purple-like color was revealed to be purple with a tint of violet. The two tombs from which the imprinted fabrics with purple-like color were found belonged to top-class social level of the Shilla period, which informs that the purple color was used exclusively for the people of higher social status. The floss silk was found between the double woven brocade and plain woven silk of the belt, which is an important evidence that the floss silk was used for stuffing in the early 6th century.

• International Journal of Industrial Entomology and Biomaterials
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• 제47권1호
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• pp.1-11
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• 2023

The Indian golden muga silkworm, Antheraea assamensis Helfer is an economically important wild silkworm endemic to Northeastern part of India. In recent years, climate change has posed a threat to muga silk production due to the requirement that larvae be reared outdoors. Since the muga silkworm larvae are exposed to the vagaries of nature, the changing climate has increased the incidence of microbial diseases in the rearing fields. Accurate diagnosis of the disease causing pathogens and its associated epidemiology are prerequisites to manage the diseases in the rearing field. Although conventional microbial culturing methods are widely used to identify pathogenic bacteria, they would not provide meaningful information on a wide variety of silkworm pathogens. The information on use of molecular diagnostic tools in detection of microbial pathogens of wild silk moths is very limited. A wide range of molecular and immunodiagnostic techniques including denaturing gradient gel electrophoresis (DGGE), random amplified polymorphism (RAPD), 16S rRNA/ITSA gene sequencing, multiplex polymerase chain reaction (M-PCR), fluorescence in situ hybridization (FISH), immunofluorescence, and repetitive-element PCR (Rep-PCR), have been used for detecting and characterizing the pathogens of insects with economic significance. Nevertheless, the application of these molecular tools for detecting and typing entomopathogens in surveillance studies of muga silkworm rearing is very limited. Here, we discuss the possible application of these molecular techniques, their advantages and major limitations. These methods show promise in better management of diseases in muga ecosystem.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.63-69
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• 1987

Silk fibroin is likely to be hydrolyzed by acids or alkalies at high temperature, and the degree of the hydrolysis has been inferred from the changes in tensile strength and elongation. But, in this experiment, it was intended to infer that from the quantitative changes in terminal aminp group content as well as in tensile strength and elongation. Silk yarn was treated with boiling water, hydrochloric acid, and sodium hydroxide under various conditions. The boiling water somewhat degraded silk fibroin. Silk yarn treated with sodium hydroxide contained more terminal amino group than that treated with hydrochloric acid. This result agreed fairly well with the loss in weight, tensile strength, and elongation: the terminal amino group content increased with the decrease of tensile strength, elongation, and weight. The damage by sodium hydroxide to the silk fibroin was greater than that by hydrochloric acid.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제46권1호
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• pp.132-146
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• 2022

To explore the potential use of Ecklonia cava as a natural dye for textiles, silk fabric was dyed with Ecklonia cava extracted by hot water under varied conditions, including temperature, duration, dye concentration, mordanting, and pH adjustment. The fabric was also evaluated for fastness, sun-protective property, and deodorization. Ecklonia cava extract was estimated by FT-IR to have polyphenol as a main functional colorant in plants, while the existence of phlorotannins through the UV-spectrum method was also confirmed. The fabric was optimized for maximum dye uptake at a temperature of 80℃ for a duration of 50 minutes along all dye concentrations. The dyed fabric showed a hue of Yellow Red under all dyeing conditions while additional color tones, such as grayish and dark, were generated through mordanting and pH adjustment. Both good sun-protective properties and a positive deodorization rate were also recorded, with more than 20% (owf) Ecklonia cava extract on silk fabric. These results imply that Ecklonia cava has great potential to be used as an eco-friendly natural dye and in fashion goods with skin-health functions made of silk.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제5권1호
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• pp.27-30
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• 1981

The change of physical properties of polyester yarn treated with sodium hydroxide solution for making polyester silk like was investigated. The tenacity of polyester yarn was reduced by increasing alkali concentration and temperature. Degree of polymerization of polyester was decreased slightly but the heat of fusion was not changed appreciably.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제42권2호
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• pp.342-359
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• 2018

This research investigated the relationship between the amount of fixed pigment and the color of silk dyed with three types of fermented indigo powder dye under different temperatures and pH, by reduction or nonreduction method. Amount of fixed pigment was analyzed using the Ultimate 3000 HPLC-DAD instrument and the color of dyed silk was measured using the X-rite spectrocolorimeter. All silk samples dyed by reduction method showed PB color. The amount of indigotin fixation was dependent on the dyeing temperature and pH regardless of the indigotin composition in the dye. Indirubin was less dependent upon the dyeing condition in the reduction dyeing and its fixation was minimum level. Dyeing conditions which can maximize the indigotin fixation were $50^{\circ}C/pH$ 11 and $70^{\circ}C/pH$ 7 conditions in reduction dyeing. Color of silk showed more redness ($a^*$) thus higher PB color when the indigotin fixation was low and indirubin fixation was relatively high. Indirubin fixation was very low with slightly better fixation by nonreduction method. More reddish color was obtained by nonreduction dyeing, and by more alkaline dyebath.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제23권3호
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• pp.385-390
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• 1999

Dyeing properties of silk fabric with green tea colorants were studied by investigating the effect of dyeing conditions such as concentration pH dyeing temperature and time on dye uptakes and effect of mordants on color change and dye uptakes, And various colorfastnesses of dyed fabrics were evaluated for practical use. Green tea colorants showed relatively good affinity to silk fabric and produced yellowish red color. Langmuir adsoption isotherm was obtained. Therefore it is considered that ionic bondings between colorants and silk fibers are formed. Mordants did not improve dye uptakes and affect color of dyed fabrics significantly. But mordanting adversely affected lightfastness of dyed fabrics. Regardless of mordanting colorfastness to perspiration especially in alkaline condition of dyed fabrics showed low rating compared with other colorfastness. It is concluded that mordanting is not necessary for silk dyeing with green tea colorants.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제41권5호
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• pp.914-928
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• 2017

This research investigated the effect of pH of dyebath and dyeing temperature on the dyeability of indigotin and indirubin on silk as well as the relationship between the amount of indigotin and indirubin detected from the dyed silk through HPLC-DAD analysis and the color of samples measured using a spectro-colorimeter. Indigo standard dye and indirubin standard dye were deliberately mixed by ratios 100:0, 80:20, 60:40, 40:60, 20:80, and 0:100 to dye silk with a different pH of dyebath (7, 11) and different dyeing temperatures ($50^{\circ}C$, $70^{\circ}C$). The amount of indigotin and indirubin pigments in silk was calculated using regression equations obtained from standard calibration curves of indigotin and indirubin. A higher indigotin percent ratio resulted in the higher K/S values and the higher amount of indigotin detected from silk. However, higher indirubin percent ratio in the mixed dye did not relate to the higher indirubin pigment detected in silk. While indirubin showed low or negative contribution to the K/S values, it showed a higher effect on the color of dyed silk. Higher amounts of indirubin in dyed silk resulted in a darker PB color, which led to P color with increases in indirubin content.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권5호
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• pp.754-764
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• 2010

Most silk fabrics are produced only after the degumming process to make the best use of the properties and have restricted silk processing that do not hinder their performance. However, considering the highly increased preference for natural fibers and the shortage of raw silk, high-quality upgraded silk product functions are required by the development of a processing technology and a good design. This study analyzes the changes with the samples by the functional finish such as softening finishing, wash and wear, tannin weighting by measuring the objective hand of scoured silk and three finished ones using KES-FB. As a result, the change of objective hand of finished silk fabrics that improves functionality was analyzed and compared. The increase of KOSHI after the finish became stiffer show that the silk fabric samples are appropriate for summertime clothes with the retention of a certain clothing climate for the body. The stiffness of finished fabrics for the normal had a closer relationship with the density of fabrics than the type of finishing. The samples (after the softening finishes) maintain better elasticity according to the properties of the softener and the finishing agent. Although the specimens of this study were thin fabrics, their elasticity against compression increased after the softening finishes and became softer than degummed silk. The surface properties of georgette were changed by all types of finishing.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제13권3호
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• pp.136-148
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• 2009

The phenomenon of the shrinkage of silk fibers induced by inorganic salts including LiBr, $Ca(NO_3){_2}$, and $CaCl_2$, has been studied up to the present as one of the finishing methods of silk. It is expected that the shrinkage phenomenon may greatly contribute to the realization of the high sensibility of silk fibers. Especially the shrinkage enables the expression of three-dimensional appearance of silk fabrics along with the improvements in dimensional stability, resilience in stretching, and comfort. Numerous theoretical studies on the contraction phenomenon by $Ca(NO_3){_2}$ have been conducted so far. These studies have focused mostly on the silk fibers. It is difficult to find studies on silk fabrics. The negative aspects of the finishing are such as strength drop, yellowish discoloration, and fiber damage. These should also be considered as well as the positive aspects. In this study, the phenomenon of salt shrinkage is diversely reviewed by applying $Ca(NO_3){_2}$ solution for the silk fabrics as objects. The changes in the air permeability, thickness, and color were investigated with focus on the shrinkage of the silk fabrics according to the changes in treatment conditions. Some findings from this study are as follows: Within short period of time at the initiation of salt shrinkage, the salt shrinkage proceeds effectively. In the case of concentration of 47.4%, or 46.3% of $Ca(NO_3){_2}$ solution, appropriate treatment time seems to be 20seconds, or $2{\sim}8$minutes, respectively. Excessive shrinkage is obtained when lower liquor ratio is adopted. As a result, the condition is acting extremely disadvantageously against the thickness and yellow discoloration aspects.