• Fibers and Polymers
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• 제6권3호
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• pp.269-276
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• 2005

In this study, cross-cultural comparison of sound sensation for Korean traditional silk fabrics between Korea and America was performed and prediction models for sound sensation by objective measurements including sound parameters such as level pressure of total sound (LPT), Zwicker's psychoacoustic characteristics, and mechanical properties by Kawabata Evaluation System were established for each nation to explore the objective parameters explaining sound sensation of the Korean traditional silk. As results, Koreans felt the silk fabric sounds soft and smooth while Americans were revealed as perceiving them hard and rough. Both Koreans and Americans were pleasant with sounds of Gongdan and Newttong and especially Newttong was preferred more by Americans in terms of sound sensation. In prediction models, some of subjective sensation were found as being related mainly with mechanical properties of traditional silk fabrics such as surface and compressional characteristics.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제6권4호
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• pp.62-71
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• 1994

The weighting increase varies with the condition of tannin-weight process and effects dyeability and physical properties of silk. The purpose of this study is to investigate the optimum condition of tannin-weighting process of silk and the effect of tannin-weighting process on dyeability and properties of silk. The methods of this study are first to examine the change according to the variables such as, weight increase of silk, temperature(30, 50, 70, 80, 9$0^{\circ}C$), time(30, 60, 120, 180, 240, 300min), tannin concentration(3, 5, 10, 20, 30g/l) in order to present the optimum condition, sencond to examine the change of the properties such as surface morphology, strength, elongation, mechanical values, dyeing condition, Basic and Acid dye absorption on silk which are tannin-weight processed in the optimum condition.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제6권4호
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• pp.72-76
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• 1994

The permselectivity of alkali metal chlorides through silk fibroin membrane was investigated at $25^{\circ}C$: The Permeability coefficients were found to increase in a sequence of LiCl < NaCl < KCl < CsCl. This sequence was explained by considering the partition and the hydrophilic membrane. The dependence of the permeability on the salts concentration was interpreted by means of TMS theory. The ionic mobility ratio of alkali metal chlorides through this membrane decreased with the increase of the Stokes radius. The Effectiveness of the charged density was found to depend on the ionic species. The greater the Stokes radius the larger the effective charge density of membrane.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제21권5호
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• pp.780-791
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• 2013

This paper is concerned with the development of the silk trade and in particular with silk-ikat production. Early origins are explained and issues relating to the development of long-distance trade are discussed. The principal trading participants are identified and the focus is turned to silk-ikat production in Central Asia. It is recognised that the vast bulk of trade, along what became known as the 'Silk Route' (or 'Silk Road'), did not involve straight-forward or direct exchange between powers to the far east of the route and powers to the far west, but rather was done in stages between adjacent or not too distant locations. Diffusion of ideas was not therefore immediate and operational at one eastern or western extreme of a trading network but, rather, was a gradual process influencing adjacent participants, at stages between the geographic extremes over a long period of time.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제35권4호
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• pp.431-441
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• 2011

Microbial colorants produced from Zooshikella sp. were developed as a reddish dye for fabrics. The reddish colorants were extracted from cell mass of Zooshikella sp. using 100% ethanol and were identified as prodiginine by 1H-NMR and FT-IR analysis. Microbial prodiginine had a maximum spectrophotomatric absorbance at 530nm and were chemically stable and 30 to $60^{\circ}C$. The microbial prodiginine could dye natural fibers such as cotton, silk, and wool as well as synthetic fibers such as nylon. The maximum K/S values of the dyed fiber were shown at 540 run with a color appearance of RP (reddish purple). Silk and nylon had an excellent dyeability among the experimental fibers. The optimum pH for the dyeing of experimental fibers was at pH 3.0 and dyeability was improved as the temperature increased. The cover change of dyed multifiber fabrics with the microbial prodiginine were measured after washing with detergents and a dry cleaning solvent for the selection of a proper fabric against microbial prodiginine. Among the experimental fibers, silk and nylon did not show significant color change after washing. Therefore, under the criteria of dyeability, silk and nylon were excellent fabrics for being dyed by microbial prodiginine.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제29권4호
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• pp.276-283
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• 2017

The aim of this study is to develop an effective dyeing process for black color on the silk fabrics, using natural Indigo, Madder, Amur cork tree, Alder, Logwood, and Gallnut. All natural dye materials were water-extracted, concentrated, and freeze-dried. Seven different processes were carried out and the color differences(${\Delta}E$) of black color with each process from the chemical black dyed fabric were compared. The light, washing, and rubbing fastness were evaluated. The black dyeing of the silk fabrics was well carried and excellent black color was obtained in every methods. The profound black color could be obtained by the subtractive mixture of the three primary colors of red, yellow, and blue in the order of indigo(blue) - amur cork tree(yellow) - madder or lac(red). Black color was efficiently obtained by iron mordant when logwood or alder fruit was used. The color difference(${\Delta}E$) from the black color with chemical dyestuff was the lowest in the indigo - amur cork tree - lac - iron method. Light fastness and washing fastness were excellent in all dyeing processes, showing grade 5. The fastness to rubbing was excellent as shown grade 5 in the dry samples of logwood - iron process and alder fruit - iron process.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.709-717
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• 2010

This study investigated the properties and functions of wool and silk dyed with Catechu by examining the effects of dying conditions such as dye concentration, dying temperature, dyeing time, pH level and pre-mordants. These conditions were examined in relation to dye uptake and color changes, washing fastness, light fastness, ultraviolet-cut ability and antimicrobial ability of the dyed fabrics. Catechu showed good affinity to silk fiber. Langmuir adsorption isotherm was obtained, and so it was considered that ionic bondings are formed between Catechu and protein fiber. As the dyeing time and temperature is increased, the dyeability of both silk and wool fabrics also increases. At high temperatures the color of dyed fabrics changes from Y and YR to R. Wool is effective in using Al, Cu, Fe mordant, while silk is effective only in using only Cu mordants. The dyeability was shown to be improved at low pH levels. Additionally, both washing fastness and light fastness were shown to be low. However, the fabric color gradually changed to red was due to mailard reaction of catechol tannin causingby repeated washing and sunlight. The ultraviolet-cut ability was improved for cotton fabric dyed with Catechu. Also, dyed fabric with Catechu showed very good antimicrobial abilities at 99.9%.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제15권3호
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• pp.439-447
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to explore the accuracy and reliability of subjective evaluation instruments in evaluating sensibility of similar fabrics, Kendall's coefficient of concordance W (agreement among subjects) and Spearman rank correlation coefficient (reproducibility after 1 week) were used to evaluate which one is more efficient. Eight kinds of linen-like silk fabrics finished with polyurethane resin were used, Subjective evaluation instruments such as rating scale method, contrasting method against a control, rank ordering method, paired comparison and Quad analysis were used, 'Stiffness and Pliability' and 'Preference of summer fabric' were estimated, From the result of subjective stiffness and pliability, which are effective on objective properties of fabric, the rating scale method in Kendall's coefficient of concordance W and Quad analysis in Spearman rank correlation coefficient were given the highest score, From the result of subjective preference of summer fabric, which are effective on individual sensibility, contrasting method against a control in Kendall's coefficient of concordance W and Quad analysis in Spearman rank correlation coefficient revealed the highest score, Regarding the accuracy, reliability and efficiency, Quad analysis was an efficient method for subjective evaluation of linen-like silk fabrics.

• 복식
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• 제67권2호
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• pp.88-100
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• 2017

This study is for the textiles of at Sun Am Temple and characteristic of embroidery. Tak Ui was composed of orange body and green upper cover, and had no strings. The body plate was covered with embroidery, with Gauze base, and upper part was appliqued, by cutting dragon pattern, cloud pattern on satin damask. The thread for embroidery was silk floss, silk twisted thread, rapped gold thread, and rapped silk thread. For padding, it was used cotton thread in the part of dragon's scales. It was used satin stitch, outline stitch, split stitch, couching, and counted stitch, etc. as method of embroidery. In particular, it embroidered counted stitch of diamond shape consecutively on the whole of Tak Ui, it does so with counted stitch of same effect of weaving Brocade in the part of cloud. Besides, it is one of the characteristic for couching rapped silk thread. Such lead embroidery is the popular method in the Ming dynasty of China, in the 16~17 century. The design of Tak Ui is dragon, cloud, and wave in the theme. In the center, 'Seong-su-man-nyeon' was placed on the heads of dragon. This is similar to Dragon Robe of Four-petalled medallion patterns, period of Ming dynasty in China. Therefore, it confirmed that Tak Ui was remodeled the embroidered textiles, made for royal robe, originally, with Tak Ui at temple.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제9권6호
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• pp.29-38
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• 2005

Natural dyes have attracted the worldwide attention because of its environmental advantage over synthetic dyes. However, most of natural dyes are expensive for mass production, strongly season and source dependent, and hard to store. In this study, coffee waste were used as natural dye to create beautiful colors. Coffee waste is inexpensive and easy to store, and provides a comparatively regular quality regardless of seasonand source. The effects of mordant agent concentration and mordanting temperature on dyeing efficiency of silk fabrics were investigated. Coffee extract dyed silk showed brilliant colors, and the colors were different with the kind of mordants. Cu, Sn, and Al mordanted silks showed golden yellow with subtle change of hue and value, while Fe mordanted silk showed a brownish green color. The increase in mordant concentration did not always increase the dyeability, and 0.5% o.w.f. mordant concentration was enough to get a satifactory result. Mordanting temperature also had little effect on the dyeability in case of Al, Cu, and Sn mordanted fabrics. Only Fe mordanted fabrics showed a better dyeability in the increase in mordating temperature. Coffee extract dyeing is an effective way using waste as resource and can create brilliant colors with minimal amount of mordant and under mild mordanting condition.