• 복식
• /
• 제59권6호
• /
• pp.29-40
• /
• 2009

On April 28th of 2006, a set of Buddha's reliquary was excavated from the pagoda in n Nacsan Temple. According to the record, the relics were put in the pagoda in the 18th year of King SookJong in the Chosun Dynasty (1692). The present paper examines ten pieces of wrapping clothes covering reliquary found in the pagoda. They are especially precious data in the history of textiles because they were blocked off from outside and was preserved in good condition with vivid colors still remaining after more than 300 years. Of the ten pieces of wrapping cloth, five were double-layered and the other five were single-layered. They include 15 pieces of silk fabric but, excluding repeated use of the same silk fabric, the total of 11 pieces of silk fabric were examined. All 11 kinds of silk fabric were patterned, 9 of which were Satin and the other 2 were Twill. Of the 9 Satin pieces, 8 pieces were 5-end satin which had the ground of 5-end warp satin with the figure of 5-end weft satin. The remaining 1 Satin piece were more splendid with prominent figures by using warp and weft of different colors. The 2 Twill pieces used twill weave-the ground was 3-end warp twill and the figures were 5-end weft twill. Both of the Twill pieces were weaved with character patterns, partly using wrapped gold thread as supplementary weft. The patterns of 11 pieces of silk fabric include flower, dragon/phoenix, cloud, and geometric patterns. Five were flower patterns, three were dragon/phoenix patterns, two were geometric pattern, and one was cloud pattern. In addition, various treasure patterns, character patterns were utilized as supplementary patterns. The flower and phoenix patterns reflect characteristics of the textiles of the 17th century whereas check pattern and cloud pattern were very unique.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제23권6호
• /
• pp.898-908
• /
• 1999

This paper was aimed to identify the hand and sensibility of silk woven fabrics for neckties to find their relationships to the hand and purchasing preferences and to make their image scale. 56 male and female students evaluated 20 specimens with semantic differential scale of 21 hand and 25 sensibility adjectives. Data were analyzed through factor analysis pearson correlational coefficient t-test using PC SAS package. the hand adjectives were grouped as 4 surface property thermal property flexibility and dryness. The sensibility adjectives were modern classic character and natural,. The flat fabrics with warm hand displayed 'modern' sensibility but those with col hand show 'classic' The rough fabrics with warm hand showed 'natural' but those with cool hand showed 'character' The fabrics rated as high hand preference and purchasing preference showed soft and flat hand occuring 'modern' and 'classic' sensibility.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제2권2호
• /
• pp.118-122
• /
• 2000

Dyeing properties of silk fabric with loess were studied by investigating the effect of dyeing conditions, such as concentration of loess, dyeing temperature and time, on dye uptakes. And also the effects of mordant and mordanting methods on color change and dye uptakes were inverstigated. For the practical use, the various color fastness of dyed fabric were evaluated. The dye uptakes of dyed fabric were increased gradually with increasing concentration of loess, dyeing time and temperature. The K/S value of dyed fabric most efficient for the premordanting method. The color fastness was improved when mordants were added.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제6권4호
• /
• pp.511-514
• /
• 2004

We studied on the bleaching properties of silk fabric by vapor type ozone processing using ozone's strong oxidation instead of 28% $H_2O_2$ chemical treatment. When vapor type ozone processing was directly treated to fabrics retaining water to 50~70% pick up ratio, high concentration ozone was generated 14,000ppm(168 mg/h) approximately and finally its bleaching improved. The fabric's bleaching effect was improved because vapor type ozone generated the highest decomposition to oxidation of surface and inter molecules. The experiment revealed that fabric's bleaching was improved by change of the pick-up ratio of vapor type ozone processing. However, tensile strength and elongation were reduced by increase of time, and the time that was assumed as the most optimized time to minimize the reduction of fabric's tensile strength and elongation as well as maximizing the fabric's bleaching was 30 minutes.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제22권8호
• /
• pp.1011-1019
• /
• 1998

The natural dyestuff(squid ink) was manufactured from squid ink by boiling in 0.1% NaOH solution and powdering in freeze dryer. Cotton, wool, silk and nylon fabrics were dyed under several conditions using the manufactured squid ink to investigate the dyeability and color fastness. Dyeing was operated in acidic dyebath of pH 4 because the squid ink is anionic. Dyeabilities on wool, silk and nylon fabrics were good, especially silk fabrics were dyed deeper than others because of being amine group. But dyeability on cotton fabrics was low and developed with chitosan treatment. All the dyed fabrics showed excellent in color fastness to crocking and laundering. Also light fastness of them were excellent except nylon. The light fastness of dyed-nylon fabrics was as poor as grade 1, but they could be improved to grade 4 by aftertreatment with gallicacid. Useing the natural dyestuff-squid ink powder, we could execute whenever we want to dye fabrics in the adequate concentration. Dyeabilities were developed according to repeating times of dyeing and the increased dye concentration. We could recycle the wasting sources.

• 한국가정과학회지
• /
• 제5권1호
• /
• pp.42-47
• /
• 2002

Antimicrobial activity of silk and cotton fabrics dyed with gromwell colorants was examined by shake flask method. The effects of bacterial reduction rate on dye uptake and mordanting were explored. The silk(K/S value 8) and cotton fabric (K/S value 4) dyed with gromwell colorants showed high bacterial reduction rate of 99 % and 88 %, respectively. Post-mordanted silk fabric increased at K/S value, also showed higher bacterial reduction rate than unmordanted. But the effects of antimicrobial activity on mordants showed respectively different results. Pre-mordanted cotton fabric except Sn mordant increased at K/S value, but it was not significant. Pre-mordanted cotton fabric showed significantly higher bacterial reduction rate than unmordanted. Therefore, it was considered that dye uptake of cotton fabric dyed with gromwell colorants and mordants were involved in the bacterial reduction rate. It was concluded that gromwell colorants had antimicrobial activity.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제21권4호
• /
• pp.661-668
• /
• 1997

The dyeing characteristics of acorn was investigated. The natural Fabrics-cotton, rayon and silk-were dyed repeatedly in the solution extracted from acorn, CuSO4, K2Cr2O7 and brine were used as mordants to improve color fastness. Anti-bacterial property was measured in the dyed and mordant treated fabrics. When the cotton and rayon fabrics were dyed and treated with CuSO4, their colors showed very clear. They also had good color fastness and excellent anti-bacterial property. The dyed silk fabrics had better dye absorption property than the cotton and rayon fabrics without mordant treatment. But the fabrics dyed without mordant treatment had low light fastness. The cotton, rayon and silk fabrics dyed and treated with brine were dark and unclear. An aftertreatment with CuSO4 and K2Cr2O7 made the dyed fabrics darter and more clear.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제28권8호
• /
• pp.1057-1064
• /
• 2004

Silk, polyester, cotton, and wool fabrics were embroidered with varying stitch length of 3mm, 5mm, and 10mm to examine the difference in fabric shrinkage in terms of sewing direction, fabric thickness, cover factor, stitch length, and fiber type. Warp, filling, and bias direction of sewing resulted in no difference in fabric shrinkage. Within the samples with same stitch length, there was less fabric shrinkage in fabrics with higher fabric thickness or higher cover factor. There was larger shrinkage when sewn with longer stitch length. Comparing fabrics with different fiber types but similar fabric thickness, silk and polyester fabrics showed the smallest fabric shrinkage and wool fabrics showed the largest shrinkage. It is shown that similar fabric shrinkage between silk and polyester is due to the similarity in cover factor.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제4권4호
• /
• pp.347-357
• /
• 2002

In 1536, two Piedmontese merchants set up workshops in Lyons, and Henri IV encourged further development later in the 16th century. The development of Lyons as a centre of the silk weaving industry was helped by the perfection of drawloom weaving technique there in 1605 by Claude Dangon. In the 17th century, the French silk industry could finally compete with the dominance of the Italian silk trade. The French silk industry was promoted in the mid-17th century under Louis XIV's minister Colbert. In 1667, he published an ordinance creating La Grande Fabrique, a corporation for craftsmen within the silk industry, and Lyons became the undisputed French silk capital. Under Louis X IV, France was becoming the dominant force in Europe in matters of fashion and style. The major innovation of weaving was the Jacquard head attachment, which provided a mechanical means of raising warp threads by a series of punched cards. The are nouveau style did not have much impact on French silk design at the end of the century. Silk manufacturers began to collaborate with haute-couture designers such as the House of Worth. This collaboration with the burgeoning Paris haute-couture industry continued into the 20th century and safeguarded the future production of silk textiles in France.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제15권2호
• /
• pp.120-130
• /
• 2011

This study is a fundamental research on the natural Polygoum tinctoria dyeing to quantify scientifically and satisfy the reproducibility of the procedure. By dyeing the silk fabrics, the establishment of accurate dyeing method was sought. At the same time, we tried to modify the traditional dyeing methods, broaden the methods, and apply the dyeing variously. The dyeability and color changes were compared and reviewed according to the changes in the reducing temperature, reducing time, concentration of the reducing agent, dyeing temperature, dyeing time, concentration of NaOH, and the number of repetition of dyeing. The optimum conditions in the dyeing procedure are as follows: Added concentration of the reducing agent is 3g/${\ell}$. Reducing temperature is $60^{\circ}C$. Reducing time is 40minutes. Dyeing temperature is $30^{\circ}C$. Added concentration of NaOH is 1g/${\ell}$. Dyeing time is 30minutes.