• 복식
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• 제5권
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• pp.65-81
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• 1981

I referred to documents to study the origin and the progressing process of textiles. Cotton seeds were first imported from China by Mun, Ik Jem at the end of the era of Koryeo, and cotton had several different names such as mok-myen, cho-myen, gil-pae, baek-chep-za, tap-po, ban-ki-wha, dong-yep-po and so on. Since the era of the Three Kingdoms, people had heard of cloth of superior quality but it was not certain whether it was imported from China or made in our country. It seems that cotton was not made during that period, white silk, hemp cloth, and ramie fabric were produced. At that time, linen was called cotton by mistake. After importing cotton seeds from China, all the people began to plant them and made their clothes from them. At the beginning of the Yi Dynasty, the weaving technique was dependent on China. However, the government persuaded farmers to plant them. At that time cotton was used as a means of purchasing instead of money. Silkworms raising started during the era of the Three Kingdoms and it was widely spread at the beginning of the Yi Dynasty. In order to encourage sericulture' spinning and weaving instruments were installed in the royal palace and the queen with sher court maids demonstrated how to spin and weave. The activity was named "chin-jam-ye." Linen was the representative of all textiles and it was also very popular. The technique of weaving had already been highly developed at the era of Silla. During the era of the Three Kingdoms people used "bang-chu-cha" as a weaving instrument. They discovered several new hand machines in the period of the Yi Dynasty: they were instrument of removing seeds, spinning wheel, hemp cloth loom and so on, and we find the remains of them these days.

• 한국잠사곤충학회지
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• 제45권1호
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• pp.58-65
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• 2003

수용성 세리신의 전자공여능을 측정하고, FT-IR, DSC 등의 분석을 통하여 물리 화학적 특성을 조사하고 부직포에 세리신을 처리하여 pack test 실시하여 다음과 같은 결론을 얻었다. 1. 전자공여 작용의 항산화 실험 결과 high>low>PK>PP>PA 순서로 전자공여능이 높았다. 2. FT-IR 분석 결과 난용성 세리신에 나타난 3285 $cm^{-1}$ /에서의 피크가 수용성 세리신에서는 단파장쪽으로 이동되었고, 가수분해가 되어 분자량이 작을수록 아미드 II밴드의 크기는 작아지고 단파장쪽으로 이동하는 현상이 나타났다. 3. DSC 분석 결과 모든 세리신에서 20$0^{\circ}C$와 30$0^{\circ}C$부근에서 흡열피크가 나타났으며, 난용성 세리신의 경우 25$0^{\circ}C$부근에서 흡열 피크가 하나 더 나타나고 30$0^{\circ}C$부근의 흡열피크는 수용성 세리신보다 높은 온도에서 나타났다. 4. 백도는 low>high>PP>PA>PK>IN 순서로 높았고, 황도는 PK>PA>PP>low>high 순서로 높았다. 5. Pack test 결과 세리신 처리된 부직포로 얼굴에 pack 처리한 경우는 처리 전에 비하여 번들거림이 줄어들고 피부가 편평한 상태가 되었다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제21권3호
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• pp.109-119
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• 2019

The purpose of this study is to examine fashion trends and the direction of the four fashion collections by analyzing the design key-words of the four major international fashion collections in 2018. The data of this study was collected by extracting the key-words from Marie Claire Korea in 2018, with the total of the collected data numbering 2,144. The data was analyzed by text mining using the R program and word-cloud, and a co-occurrence network analysis was conducted. The results of this study are as follows: First, the key-words of fashion collection designs in 2018 were fringe and ruffle detail, silk and denim fabric, vivid color, stripe and check pattern, pants suit item, and oversized silhouette, focusing on romanticism and sport. Second, seasonal characteristics of the fashion collections were pastel colors in S/S, primary and vivid colors in F/W. Details were embroidery and cutouts in S/S, patchwork and fringe in F/W. Third, the design trends of the four major fashion collections were presented in the Paris collection: stripes, check patterns, embroidery, lace, tailoring, draping, romanticism, and glamor. In the Milan collection, checks, prints, denim, and minidresses reflected sport and romanticism. The London collection included fringe, ruffles, floral patterns, flower patterns, and romanticism. The New York collections included vivid colors, neon colors, pastel colors, oversize silhouettes, bodysuits, and long dresses.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제24권2호
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• pp.85-95
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• 2022

This study aimed to clarify relationships between the westernization of military uniform systems and changes in the textile import industry during the Eulmi reforms of clothing regulation. For the goal, the study investigated the content and features of that had been enacted under the Eulmi reforms. It also examined the status of the textile import industry at the time, especially in relation to outer garments such as jackets or Eui, trousers or Go, and overcoats. Moreover, this study inspected how the above westernization changed the textile import industry. More specifically, the research analyzed the content of based on articles from the then state newsletter or 『Gwanbo』, and the then cabinet meeting or Euijeongbu's proceedings or 『Euiju』. Concerning the textile import industry, this study looked into relevant descriptions and trade statistics from 『KOPEИ(Hankukji)』, and analyzed changes in that industry in connection with the introduction of Western military uniform systems. As a result, this study found that increased imports of cotton fabrics during the Eulmi reforms of clothing regulation was correlated with surging demand for shirt or lining materials and increase in the use of Myeonyung following military uniform westernization. Similarly, an increase in silk fabric imports was an outcome of increased demand for lining materials. Also, the import growth of woolen fabrics was seemingly attributed to the use of Heuknasa and Heukyung as basic materials of military uniforms. Thus, military uniforms began to be made of fabrics, which hadn't been used before in the wake of westernization. This development brought changes in the textile import industry, which is supported by textile import statistics of the time. In conclusion, the westernization of military uniform systems under the Eulmi reforms of clothing regulation was a significant factor that changed the industry.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제24권3호
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• pp.127-144
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• 2022

This paper aims to analyze the different external images of women expressed in ancient artwork through the socio-cultural background and the aesthetic view during the Tang and Song dynasties of China. The research method contains a literature review involving the collection of historical literature, thesis, and artwork data. The image of women according to the aesthetic view of the two periods is summarized as follows. In terms of face shape, the Tang pursued a round face while the Song pursued a more slender shape. As for hair ornamentation, the Tang wore various shapes of hair buns like "Paojiaji", and decorated them with coronets. The Song wore various types of braided hair called "Tongxinji", but the coronets were smaller and more sophisticated. For makeup, the Tang wore colorful and heavy makeup and the Song makeup was lighter and more elegant. In attire, the Tang followed revealed shape, used splendid colors and thin, transparent material. The Song exhibited a more simple design and was conservative and neat, using luxurious silk fabric with low chroma. In body shape, the Tang pursued the "beauty of obesity" with a voluptuous body shape; the Song pursued the "beauty of gaunt" with a slim body shape. As the result of the analysis according to the aesthetic views of the Tang and Song dynasties, women of Tang were depicted as rich, and women of Song were rather neat. The research on the aesthetic views that changed according to the development of social civilization and the status of women will play an active role in the transmission and development of traditional Chinese culture. At this point, the paper may contribute to the creation of images of women as well as changes in the art of future generations.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제53권2호
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• pp.242-253
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• 2020

나주 복암리 정촌 고분 1호 석실에서 화살통 장식 6점이 출토되었다. 유기물로 만들어진 화살통은 매장 상태에서 부식되어 없어지고 금속으로 만들어진 화살통 장식물만 남게 된다. 정촌 고분 화살통 장식은 형태적으로 2점씩 쌍을 이루며, 출토 위치에 따라 화살통 2점을 장식한 것으로 추정된다. 화살통 장식은 화살의 방입부(方立部)를 꾸며주는 대륜상금구와 방입부와 허리띠를 연결하는 배판(背板)을 장식하는 판상금구로 나누어진다. 1호 석실 목관2에서 출토된 화살통 장식은 대륜상금구만 확인되었으며 1호 석실 동남쪽에서 확인된 화살통 장식은 허리띠에 사용된 추정 대구, 판상금구, 대륜상금구가 확인되었다. 화살통 장식의 분석 결과, 철제 판에 금동 판을 접합한 철지금동장식제(鐵地金銅裝飾製)이며 표면을 정(釘)으로 점을 찍어 선과 문양을 만든 것을 알 수 있다. 성분 분석 결과(XRF), 금동 표면은 24~40wt% Au, 50~93wt% Cu가 검출되어 금도금 표면에 청동 부식물이 형성되었음을 확인하였다. 금도금 층의 SEM-EDS 분석 결과 광택을 내기 위한 작업선이 확인되었다. 또한 7~9wt% Hg가 검출되고 도금 층에 아말감 덩어리가 확인되어 아말감 도금한 것을 알 수 있었다. CT와 FT-IR 분석 결과 대륜상금구는 철제 판 아래 견직물이 2중으로 겹쳐 있으며 그 아래 옻칠편도 붙어 있었다. 이는 대륜상금구를 방입부에 부착할 때 직물을 덧대어 밀착력과 장식성을 높였으며, 옻칠 된 방입부 표면이 함께 떨어진 것으로 추정된다. 반면, 판상금구는 철제 판 아래 유기물이 두껍게 붙어 있다. 재질을 확정하기 어려우나 배판의 잔재로 보인다. 이러한 나주 정촌 고분 출토 화살통 장식의 특징은 4세기 후반~5세기 후반의 백제, 신라, 가야 문화권과 유사한 형식을 보여주며 당시 수준 높은 고대 금속 공예 제작 기술을 확인할 수 있었다.

• 한국잠사곤충학회지
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• 제47권1호
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• pp.31-35
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• 2005

전통 쪽 염료제조 및 염색 방법을 개선하기 위하여 시험한 결과 다음과 같은 결과를 얻었다. 1. 전통 족 염료 제조에 사용하는 꼬막껍질태운가루의 3 g/l 넣을 경우의 수용액의 pH 12.30 정도이었다. 2. 쪽 풀을 2일간 물에 침지를 하였을 경우가 염료의 K/S 값이 2.49로 가장 높았고, 명도 값이 5.03으로 가장 낮았으므로 색상이 가장 짙었다. 3. 볏짚 잿물과 꼬막 껍질 태운가루 양과의 관계를 염료 염색 상태를 보았을 때 3일째부터 염색이 되어5일 째까지의 염색이 가능 하였다. 4. 발효 온도 별로 꼬막껍질 태운가루의 사용량에 따른 발효 상태를 본 결과는 $30^{\circ}C$에서 발효할 경우 3~4g/l일 경우가 K/S 값이 가장 높았다. 5. 쪽 염료 발효 시 사용한 물엿 양은 20 g/l을 사용한 구가 염색 직물의 K/S값이 가장 높은 3.10이었으며, 염색 온도는 $30$~$50^{\circ}C$에서 비슷하며, 염료의 구성 성분도 인디루빈과 인디고 2개의 색소로 구성되었다. 6. 염료의 색소 및 염색 직물의 항균력은 99.8%로 우수하였고, 색소간의 차이는 없었으나 소취성은 sodium hydrosulfite(개선)첨가 발효 방법이 높았다.

• 복식
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• 제53권7호
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• pp.95-109
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• 2003

The style of different styles of clothing have been developed by not only the natural environment and social effects. but also by various variables such as the peculiar cultures and religions of different ethnic groups. It is naturally accepted without question that the origin of trousers was derived from the Skytie race in the modern style of dress. And the style of those trousers has changed and developed throughout a long history in different environments and surroundings. As part of the research of the process in this styles of clothing, it is essential to know how the fabric of trousers has been developed and how the styles have been changed because of different weather conditions and different religions. Nowadays, Eurasian countries was scattered from western and eastern Asian countries to middle Asian countries such as Russia, Uzbekistan, Kazakistan, Turkey, Turkmenistan, Iran and China. These countries are located on the way to the Silk Road. They are fully developed in a cultural area among the different religions. In terms of cultural aspects within the different religions, men's trousers had developed the traditional style of this dress as one of the importnat items on the cultural basis. The ranges and types of these traditional trousers are divided by the regions, such as west and southern Asia, central Asia and China. Pakistan, Afghanistan, Iran, Iraq, Syria, Lebanon, Turkey. Jordan, Saudi Arabia, Kuwait and Israel was a part of the west and southern Asian countries which were located between western countries and eastern countries. This tribes wore Shalwar trousers which is a wide style of trousers. Shalwar in the western and eastern Asian region has a specific feature by the each nation but has the same distinctions such as by using very wide and loose style and tying a fine thread around the waist. Some central Asian countries consisted of part of China, Turkmenistan. the Republic of Tajikistan. the Republic of Kyrgyzstan and the Republic of Afganistan. These style of trousers are compound types which appeared with mixing Draperian Greek culture. So it can be inferred from this data that the horse-riding nomadic trousers which had been handed down from Skytie tribe through Persia. The style of the trousers in those regions has small pieces. The style of the trousers in China, which is located on the way to the far eastern countries, has developed new trousers put together two pieces of the textile. These widen trousers can be worn by using a sash belt. So we can find out that those trousers of countries which mentioned above have a common point and a rule.

• 복식
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• 제63권2호
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• pp.29-44
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• 2013

This study is about the periodic characteristics of Wonsam in the Joseon Dynasty. Wonsam include the Danryeong-shaped Wonsam in the beginning, the compound Wonsam in a period of transition and the stereotyped Wonsam in the late Joseon Dynasty. The formative characteristics of Wonsam are divided into four stages. The first stage of the Wonsam is from the 15th to 16th century. The shape of Wonsam began to form and it was similar to one of Danryeong during this time. The formative characteristics of the first Wonsam included collars that looked like one of Danryeong, side pleats(called Moo) with multiple inner folds, straight cylinder-shaped sleeves, and a belt tied with the Wonsam. There were various fabrics that were used for the Wonsam from this stage. Second stage of the Wonsam is from the early 17th to mid 17th century. This period marked the beginning of the transition of the Wonsam and it served as a stepping-stone to the development stage in the Joseon Dynasty. The characteristics of the transitional Wonsam were a complex combination of the Danryeong and Wonsam. During this period, the Wonsam went through many changes and forms in a short period of time. Third stage of the Wonsam is from the mid 17th to early 19th century. The Wonsam was developed at this stage. The developed Wonsam went through a period of transition equipped with a stable form. The formative characteristics of Wonsam during this period included collars that faced each other, big and wide sleeves with multicolored stripes, Hansam, curve-edged side seam and the side pleats(Moo) with multiple inner folds had disappeared. It was a turning point from the single-layered clothes to double layered clothes and from dark blue to green color appeared at this time. The fabric patterns of this stage tended to consist of more simplified silk pattern. The fourth stage of the Wonsam is from the late 19th to 20th century. The Wonsam was expanded at this stage. The formative characteristics and fabrics were typically used for the standard Wonsam and were divided into two types; as a ceremonial robe used in courts and a wedding ceremonial robe for the common people. Phenomena such as sewing of double-layered clothes as one and straight-edged side seam during the late Joseon period developed into simpler and more practical fashion culture.

• 복식
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• 제52권1호
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• pp.129-143
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• 2002

Patterns are something that comes out of necessity in human life, which is closely associated with it. Thus come the SFAA (Seoul Fashion Artists Association) collection which uses patterns varying in form, color, way of expression and material. For this research, I first categorized the patterns the SFAA designers used into: natural patterns, symmetric patterns, traditional patterns, stripe, plaid, dot and abstract patterns. As a result of the process. the designers most favored the natural patterns and symmetric patterns, and dot patterns were rarely used. The designer who most favored patterns in general was Sul Yun-hyoung, and the designer Kim Chul-ung rarely favored the surface effect. The seven kinds of patterns naturally differ according to the designer. as Park Hang-chi liked to use the plaid patterns along with yam dyeing material, whereas Jin Teok expressed stripe patterns using the yarn dyeing fabric. Natural patters were presented in a bizarre way with Lie Sang-bong. who took the motives appearing in Eastern ceramic and paintings into the clothes, using the print method. The symmetric patterns, which the SFAA designers most preferred. was used evenly among designers like Chang Kwang-hyo, Gee Choon-hee. Rubina, and Haneza. In contrast. Lie Sang-bong. who used abstract patterns that do not give out meaning of the actual form of the pattern. rarely used symmetric patterns. The dot patterns were most often used by Park Youn-soo. and traditional patterns were overwhelmingly chosen by Sul Yun-hyoung. Secondly. in expressing the colors, SFAA designers were much more likely to choose achromatic colors. not choosing to show off colors. This is especially apparent in works by Haneza and Lie Sang-bong. In the SFAA collections, numerous methods were used to create. For instance, Sul Yun-hyoung used the oriental embroidery method. and Rubina and Lie Sang-bong used many unique dying methods. In terms of materials, Sul Yun-hyoung preferred silk. due to her methods, and Lie Sang-bong was one of the designers that used a number of different materials such as vinyl. Jacques Mueclier of the Paris Clothes Association in France, who was invited to SFAA collection once, remarked. "While the choice of material and the actual sewing done were excellent, there lacked much difference among the designers, as most of them choose flowing silhouette In terms of composition," which is all too correct. In addition, there were cases in the collection where the inherent feelings of cultural artifacts was expressed without alteration. Summing up, the research aimed to analyze the surface expression methods, forms and color of SFAA designs. and I hope that it can open up ways for new projects in the future.he future.