• 대한가정학회지
• /
• 제41권1호
• /
• pp.249-257
• /
• 2003

For the efficiency in extracting gromwell colorant, methanol, ethanol and aceton were used as solvents. Also, to compare the results when dyed in various conditions and on various fabrics, the ratio of water-dye mixture, pH, temperature, and varieties of fabrics -wool, silk, cotton, nylon, ramie- were selected. L, a, b, ΔE, munsell and K/S value of each sample was measured and compared for the practical use. Water-dye mixture of 5:5 ratio showed the optimum dyeability. Not to mention wool and silk, but also cotton showed a satisfying dying result at the acidity of pH4. As the temperature increased, the dyeability of all three fabrics improved greatly. Especially, wool showed the highest improvement in terms of dyeability as the temperature increased. K/S values for wool and nylon showed superior results to the others in the gromwell colorant. The resulting color turned out somewhat different depending on the solvents used and the sort of fabric that was tested on. When the gromwell colorant extracted with methanol or ethanol was applied, the color of fabrics came out as purple or purpleblue. When the colorant extracted with acetone was used, the color of fabrics came out to be redpurple. The colorfastness to light showed low glades regardless to whichever solvents were used. The grades of colorfastness to laundering were recorded low numerical values, and its record became even lower when the gromwell colorant extracted with aceton was applied. The staining grade of the colorfastness to laundering showed a good grade in the range of 4 to 5. All the dyed fabrics showed a excellent drycleaning fastness.

• 한국생활과학회지
• /
• 제21권2호
• /
• pp.299-314
• /
• 2012

The purpose of this study was to explore effects of pattern alteration using a virtual clothing simulation approach in combination with 3D analysis software. Three raglan sleeves of different patterns were worn by an avatar using virtual clothing simulation with silk and cotton as the test fabrics. It was observed that the silhouette and hemline shape were affected differently based on raglan sleeve pattern and fabric type. By examining clothing pressure distribution, the cotton fabric designs and pattern shapes provided for a variety of influences on armhole and bust regions as well as the back sleeve area. For representative locations, cross section circumstance, cross section area, and volume were measured by using 3D analysis and the resulting correlation between the 2D and 3D data were investigated. Among different fabrics, there was little difference between the 2D and 3D clothing surface area. However, when using 3D analysis, clothing volume was significantly affected by different fabrics and pattern types. By simultaneously adopting the virtual simulator and 3D analysis, quantitative assessment of virtual clothing simulation was successfully conducted. In light of the results of this study, the resulting methodology is expected to be used as a comprehensive evaluation tool for virtual clothing simulation wear testing.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제28권2호
• /
• pp.199-214
• /
• 2020

The study investigates Atlas fabrics, the Ikat weaving method used by the Uygur People in Xinjiang, China. Based on domestic and foreign papers and other literature, different cultural characteristics of Ikat fabrics from various regions are compared. Following a theoretical investigation, characteristics of fabrics from the Indian Patola, Indonesian Ikat, Japanese Kasuri, and Uzbekistan Adras are summarized and compared with the characteristics of pattern, color, and manufacturing process of Atlas silk from Xinjiang China (also an Ikat fabric). The results are as follows. First, although the weaving process used for Ikat fabrics differs from country to country according to different national cultures, lifestyles, colors, patterns, and usage methods, they are all Ikat dyed fabrics. Therefore, they are all regarded as precious objects symbolizing a certain social status, and are used as a gift for special occasions, such as weddings. Second, the form of the pattern varies. Indian Patola has clear outlines and regular patterns, while the patterns of Japanese Kasuri are mainly inspired by folk life ideas. Indonesian Ikat contains influences from indigenous tribes, and Uzbekistan's and China's Atlas textiles are influenced by geography, religion, and national culture, including bright colors and pattern designs inspired by plants, musical instruments, and geometric figures. Finally, the patterns and colors of Xinjiang Atlas fabrics present strong ethnic characteristics. Unlike the Uzbekistan fabric which is mostly influenced by Islam, human and animal patterns would not feature in Xinjiang Atlas patterns, which mostly consist of long strips, repeated in a neat and orderly form.

• 복식
• /
• 제34권
• /
• pp.135-150
• /
• 1997

The purpose of this study was to inves-tigate the economic performance of the textile industry for the Korean traditional clothes. The content of this paper had two pars; The first part was for the macroeconomic aspects such as location production employments and the produc-tion facilities of the textile industries. The second part was for the microeconomic aspects such as business type branding method fabric type R&D efforts sourc-ing and the distributional channel The major results were as follows: 1.) Most textile firms for the korean traditional clothes were located in Gongju for man-made fibers and in Jinju for silk fabrics. 2) The size of the textile industry in terms of the number of business produc-tion amount the number of employee de-creased during 1994 and 1995 due to the decreasing demand. 3) Over the half of the textile firms produced raw fabric products while only 20% of them were involved in additional dyeing and /or printing finish which re-sulted in low value added production 4) The R&D effort of the textile indus-try for the Korean traditional clothes was very low due to the market uncertainty lack of technological knowledge and most of all small size of the firms 5) Most raw materials for the textile in -dustry were imported with high(25%) tariff rates resulting in price increase and thus low competitiveness in the market. 6) The textile producers sole about the 70% of their products to the wholesalers while selling the rest to the retailers di-rectly. This showed the dual structure of the distribution channel in the textile products. These results suggested some implica-tions for the firms the policy makers and the researchers. The firms should develop new and improved products to increase and create consumer demand by intensive R&D efforts. The government policy ma-kers should give financial supports the firms with R&D investment and legal help such as lowing tariff rate for the raw ma-terials. The researchers from the academy could help the textile industry with the advanced technological knowledge and up-date information for the consumer fashion demand.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제5권3호
• /
• pp.299-303
• /
• 2003

Some of historical textiles were analyzed to identify the imprinted textures on the metal remains of Haengyeup(a horse strap pendant) and Doja (a knife), which were excavated in the ruins of Hwangsung-dong, Kyungju city in the fifth century and textiles imprinted on the human bones that were excavated in the Pungnae 4th Area, Namyangju county in the sixteenth century. The results analyzed arc as follows ; It was confirmed that the imprinted textures of Haengyeup and Doja are white ramie since the structural characteristics of cellulosic bast fibers, partially projected long oval cross sections with large lumens and the imprinted textures of human bones are silk fabrics since the triangular cross sections of fibroin is showed. All of the textiles were designed in plain weaves. In the case of weaving yarns, the warp threads were thicker than the weft threads, that is, the imprinted textures of Haengyeup were measured by 1.35 mm for warp and 1.21 mm for weft, and the Doja by 1.16mm for warp and 1.11 mm for weft. In connection with the direction of the yarn twist, the Z-twist were observed in the imprinted textures of human bones, whereas it presented the S-twist in the case of Haengyeup and Doja. The warp yarns were mostly harder twisted than the weft yarns on the amounts of twist, that is, it was observed that the case of Haengyeup were amounted to 0.33 twists per centimeter for warp yarns and 0.25 twists per centimeter for weft yarns. Also it was showed 0.32 twists per centimeter for warp yarns and 0.26 twists per centimeter in the case of the textures of human bones. On the fabric counts, it was showed that the finer the yarns the higher the densities since it were $4.3{\times}5.1$ threads per sqaure centimeters and $7.6{\times}7.1$ threads per sqaure centimeters each in the case of Haengyeup and Doja, whereas it was $18.2{\times}33.7$ threads per sqaure centimeters in the case of the textures of human bones.

• 보존과학회지
• /
• 제34권1호
• /
• pp.51-57
• /
• 2018

본고는 김해 대성동 88호분에서 출토된 칠기편을 분석하고 조사한 내용이다. 잔편으로 수습된 칠기편을 광학현미경으로 관찰하고, SEM-EDS와 FT-IR 분석을 통하여 제작기법과 칠기의 구조를 파악하였다. 조사결과 목제바탕에 직물을 바르고 바탕칠을 한 목심저피칠기(木心苧被漆器)로 나타났다. SEM-EDS 분석 결과 바탕칠에는 골분이 혼합된 것이 확인되었다. 칠기 제작에 골분을 사용하는 기법은 중국 한대 칠기의 특징으로 알려져 있으며, 낙랑칠기와 삼국, 통일신라시대 칠기에서도 확인된다. 칠기제작에 사용된 목재의 수종은 서안 동한묘(西安 東漢墓)에서 출토된 칼집의 수종 특징과 상통하며, 칠기 내면에 견직물이 부착된 특징적인 구조를 보이고 있다. 88호분 출토 칠기편은 한반도 남부지역에서 확인된 골분 혼합 칠기 중 가장 선행하는 자료일 뿐만 아니라 당시 금관가야의 대외교류 관계를 알려주는 자료로도 주목된다.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제32권1호
• /
• pp.70-85
• /
• 2024

This study aimed to examine the recent Hanbok school uniform design directions to contribute to the distribution of Hanbok school uniforms and the accumulation of Hanbok-inspired fashion design sources. We reviewed 16 academic papers published on Hanbok school uniform designs from 1998 to 2023 and summarized the design features proposed therein. We also analyzed 172 items of Hanbok school uniform designs developed under the Hanbok school uniform promotion project hosted by the Hanbok Advancement Center between 2019 and 2022. We found that the recent Hanbok school uniform design characteristics conformed to the design directions proposed in previous studies in terms of line, color, fabric, and textile pattern. Conforming design characteristics include the following. Overall, silhouettes were straight and moderately fitting to the body. Detailed straight and curved lines from Hanbok were applied. Designs showed traditional Hanbok colors, including white, black, and navy. Machine washable cotton and various blended fabrics were used. Modernized traditional patterns such as Saekdong, cloud, and Gwae were applied to textile designs. In contrast, some characteristics of recent designs deviated from the proposed design directions. Barrel silhouettes were found in casual styles of uniform items, including sweatshirts, hoodies, and jumpers. A wider range of materials, including fleece, quilted fabric, brocade, and Jinju silk, were used. Uniforms had looser silhouettes and were made with modern washable materials to meet students' preference for casual uniforms.

• 박물관보존과학
• /
• 제29권
• /
• pp.1-32
• /
• 2023

국립중앙박물관이 소장하고 있는 필자미상회혼례도(筆者未詳回婚禮圖)(덕수6375)는 회혼례의 장면을 그린 다섯 폭의 화첩이다. 회혼례는 부부의 혼인 60년을 기념하여 혼례식을 다시 행하며 주변의 축하를 받는 기념행사로, 이 화첩에는 전안례, 교배례, 헌수례, 접빈, 중뢰연의 장면을 기록하였는데 인물과 건축물, 여러 가지 기물 등을 섬세한 필치로 세밀하게 묘사한 회화 자료이다. 제작 기법 연구를 위해 현미경, 적외선, 엑스선 조사와 함께 초분광영상분석이 사용되었다. 비가시영역에 대하여 밑그림 확인, 색상에 따라 사용된 안료와 염료를 구별하고자 하였다. 엑스선형광분석으로 안료의 성분을, 자외선-가시광선분광분석으로 염료의 종류를 판별하였다. 현미경 조사를 통해 확인된 회혼례도에 사용된 직물의 재료는 섬유의 꼬임이 거의 없는 생견사이며 평직으로 제직된 평견직물로 확인되었다. 초분광영상분석과 엑스선형광분석, 자외선-가시광선분광분석으로 백색은 연백, 흑색은 먹으로 확인되었 다. 적색은 주토, 진사, 진사와 연단 혼합, 갈색은 주토 및 유기 염료, 황색은 등황을 사용한 것을 알 수 있었다. 녹색은 쪽, 석록, 크롬그린과 황화바륨, 청색은 석청, 회청, 쪽으로 확인되었다. 자색은 쪽과 연지충 혼합으로 추정되었고 금색은 금분을 사용한 것으로 나타났다. 초분광영상에서 보존처리 영역을 식별하여 손상부분과 보존처리부분 등을 구분할 수 있었다.

• 복식
• /
• 제57권3호
• /
• pp.37-52
• /
• 2007

Dan(緞) is satin damask. It was a newly popularized fabrics in the Joseon Period and is one of main traditional fabrics at present. The purpose of this study is to suggest a theoretical basis to name Dan(緞) remains properly by comparing and analyzing the name, pattern, usage, feature, length and width, value of Dan(緞) recorded on documents made at the end of the Joseon Period. The results of this study are as follows. 1. The kinds of Dan(緞) recorded on documents made at the end of the Joseon Period are various. Among fabrics named Dan(緞), were not only silk fabrics but also cotton fabrics, woolen fabrics, mixture fabrics with silk and cotton, and mixture fabrics with cotton and wool. 2. Some newly revealed patterns in the case of Dan(緞) are as follows. The shape of Byeolmun(別紋) is assumed to have originated from that of character symbolizing the Royal Family and developed into a variety of circular ones of dragon, phoenix, flower, or character. O-ho-ro-mun(五葫蘆紋) was five-gourd-shaped patterns that form a circle, turning their narrow mouth to the center, and vines between each two gourds. 3. When considering the usages of Dan(緞), Dan(緞) was used for various detailed usages according to their kinds. But it was't mostly used for underwear. 4. Features have been examined are Godan(庫緞), Mobondan(模本緞), Handan(漢緞), Daedan(大緞), Yangdan(洋緞), Waedan(倭緞), and Geumdan(錦緞). 5. The length and the width of 1 Pil(疋) silk fabrics are various. It is normal for the width being different, but for 1 Pil(疋)'s length being different is very unusual. The width of Dan (緞) was about 47-76.20cm, it was wider than Ju(紬), Cho, Gyeon(絹), Sa(紗), Ra(羅) and Reung(綾). 6. As for the value of each fabric per $10,000cm^2$, Dan(緞) was the most valuable silks at that time. Among them the most valuable Dan(緞) was Udan(羽緞).

• 식품과학과 산업
• /
• 제55권2호
• /
• pp.154-165
• /
• 2022

인간이 최소 8,500년 이상 이용하고 섭취를 해온 누에는 화학물질과 공해에 매우 민감하다. 뽕나무 밭이나 누에를 키우는 잠실 근처의 농작물 재배용 밭이나 과수원에서 병해충 방제를 위해 살포한 농약이 비산 되면, 매우 적은 양의 농약이 누에의 먹이가 되는 뽕나무 잎을 오염시키거나, 잠실로 침투해도 누에 유충은 섭식을 더 이상 하지 않아서 성장을 멈추고 죽는 특징이 있다(양잠보급과, 2022). 그리고, 누에 유충은 가축 배설물에서 나는 냄새와 차량통행에서 나오는 공해 물질과 먼지에도 매우 민감하므로(양잠보급과, 2022), 정상적으로 성장한 누에는 천연식품으로 간주할 수 있다. 누에제품들에 대한 성분분석결과를 보면 5령3일 동결건조 누에 분말(권해용 등, 2019)과 홍잠 분말(Ji 등, 2016, 2017, 2019)에서는 중금속이 전혀 검출되지 않는다. 그러므로, 누에를 이용하여 제조된 제품들의 안전성은 다른 곤충식품이나 육류에 비하여 매우 높다. 하지만, 누에는 오로지 뽕 나뭇잎 만을 섭취하고, 5령 동안 전 생애 섭취하는 뽕 나뭇잎의 80% 이상을 섭취하기 때문에 단 기간 고강도의 노동이 필요하므로, 제품의 단가가 높은 단점을 가지고 있다. 이러한 문제점을 해결하기 위해서는 누에 사육에 자동화 시스템을 도입해서, 노동력 투입을 줄이면서 품질이 일정한 제품을 생산할 수 있어야 한다. 현재 선진국들은 의생명과학의 발전과 개인 위생의 증진으로 기대수명이 빠르게 늘어나고 있다. 대한민국을 포함한 많은 여러 선진국은 2030년에 기대수명이 90세를 초과할 것이라고 예측되고 있다(Kontis 등, 2017). 하지만, 65세 이상의 노인은 하나 이상의 만성질환으로 고통을 받고 있어서 기대수명(또는 기대여명)과 질병없이 건강하게 살아가는 건강수명과는 9년 내외의 차이가 나고 있다(Garmany 등, 2021). 2021년 현재 노인인구의 비율은 16.5%이지만(통계청, 2021), 노인이 사용하는 건강보험 진료비 비율은 2020년에 이미 총 진료비에서 43.4%에 도달하였다(건강보험심사평가원, 2021). 그러므로, 향후 개인과 국가의 의료비용을 절감하기 위해서는 건강수명을 늘려야 한다. 누에의 산물들은 다양한 건강증진 효과가 있고(표1과 2), 인류가 이미 8500년 이상 섭취를 하여온 대부분의 사람들에게는 부작용이 없는 식품이다. 그리고 누에 산물 중 홍잠의 경우는 동물 모델의 건강수명을 증진시켜 줌이 알려져 있으므로(Choi 등, 2017b; Mai 등, 2022; Nguyen 등, 2016; Park 등, 2022), 향후 홍잠을 이용한 새로운 제품을 개발하고 판매하여 대중화되면, 국민들의 건강수명이 증대됨으로서 의료비용의 감소를 가져오고 개인의 행복이 증진될 것이다.