• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.1 s.100
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• pp.143-149
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• 2006

For the purpose of standardization and practicability of natural dyeing, the mordanting and dyeing properties of Acorn Shell was studied. Appropriate extraction, dyeing and mordanting condition of Acorn Shell were determined, and the effect of mordanting method on dye uptake and color fastness of dyed fabric was investigated. The maximum absorbance of Acorn Shell solution was at 287.5nm and 294nm. The pH effect was stable in the color difference changes. The optimum temperature to extract Acorn Shell was during 1 hour in $60^{\circ}C$. The effective dyeing temperature and time of silk were $80{\sim}100^{\circ}C$, 1hour. The silk fabrics dyed with Acorn Shell appeared yellow-brown. K/S value of dyeing fabrics was increased by mordant treatment. K/S value of post-mordanting was higher than pre-mordanting. Mordanting treatment attected color change of the dyed silk. In the case of Acorn Shell light fastness of appeared more than 3-5grades by post-mordanting. Abrasion fastness of appeared more than 3-5grades. Perspiration fastness of appered more than $3{\sim}5grades$ by mordant treatment but Cu mordant treatment was $2-5{\sim}4grades$. Dry-cleaning Fastness appered more than 4 grades except Cu mordant treatment. These fastness improvement were generally effective for mordant treatment, specially Al, Sn, Cr.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.12 no.3 s.28
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• pp.383-390
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• 1988

To investigate the soil-redeposition and color change on dry-cleaning, the white and, dyed, fabrics of cotton, silk, polyester and viscose rayon were put into ordinary commercial dry-cleaning machine with soiled cloths. The solvents used were hydrocarben, perchloroethylene and fluorocarbon. From the result, we obtained the following conclusions by examining soil-redeposition, color difference of fabrics and tenacity of cotton fabric. 1. In case of white fabrics, as a whole, perchloroethylene shows the lowest soil redeposition. When distillation process is adopted, the rate of soil redeposition is lowered. with hydrocarbon sdvent. The order of soil redeposition rate of fibers are following; cotton> viscose rayon> silk> polyester. 2. In case of dyed fabrics, the color difference between soil redeposited fabrics and originals ($\delta\;E_1$) is similar with white fabrics in pattern, and the order is cotton, viscose rayon, silk and polyester. The color difference between fabrics, treated by pure solvents and originals ($\delta\;E_2$ ) is also validated as a little. It seems to be due to the bleeding of dyestuffs from fabrics. 3. There is a little change of tenacity of cotton fabrics by dry-cleaning with perchloroethylene solvent. It is supposed that the damage is more influenced the repetitive mechanical action during dry-cleaning than by acidity of the solvent having the acid value of 0,14.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.8 s.99
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• pp.154-160
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• 2005

For the purpose of standardization and practicability of natural dyeing, the mordanting and dyeing properties of Puerariae Radix was studied. Appropriate extraction, dyeing and mordanting condition of Puerariae Radix were determined, and the effect of mordanting method on dye uptake and color fastness of dyed fabric was investigated. The maximum absorbance of Puerariae Radix solution was at 290nm and 301nm. The pH effect was stable in the color difference changes. The optimum temperature to extract Puerariae Radix was during 1 hour in loot. The effective dyeing temperature and time of silk were 80$\~$ 100$^{circ}C$, 1hour. The silk fabrics dyed with Puerariae Radix appeared yellow-brown. US value of dyeing fabrics was increased by Fe, and Cu mordant treatment. Mordanting treatment method affected color change of the dyed silk. In the case of Puerariae Radix light fastness of appeared more than 2-5 grades by mordant treatment. Perspiration fastness of appered more than 4 grades by Al, Sn, Cr mordant treatment. Fastness of abrasion and dry-cleaning appered more than 4-5 grades. These fastness improvement were generally effective for mordant treatment, specially Al, Sn, Cr.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.35-50
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• 2001

The object of this study is to improve the adsorption of dye for gromwell. Dye was from gromwell first soaked in methylol and added the distilled water, using same amount of methylol. The fabrics used for the experiments were cotton, silk and acrylics(KS0905). These were used untreated and pretreated with chitosan, premordanted with Cu, Al and Fe. Dyeing conditions were controlled. 1. Deep color effect was shown silk. 2. Chitosan treated cotton and acrylics showed deep color effect and huge color difference before and after the experiment. 3. In chitosan treated acrylics, deep color effect were shown. It proved the good adsorption of gromwel under metal mordanting. 4. Cu showed high adsorption of gromwell and deep color effect. 5. Chitosan treated acrylics can be substitute for wool.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.9
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• pp.1301-1307
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• 2002

This paper surveys the mordanting and dyeing properties of Rubia akane Nakai appropriate extraction, dyeing and mordanting conditions of Rubia akane Nakai were determined, and the effect of mordanting method on dye uptake and color fastness of the dyed fabric was investigated. The optimum temperature to extract Rubia akane Nakai was during 1 hour in 8$0^{\circ}C$. The effective dyeing temperature and time of silk were 8$0^{\circ}C$, 1hour. The silk fabrics dyed with purpurin appeared red color, with alizarine appeared yellow-brown and with Rubia akane Nakai appeared yellow orange. K/S value of the dyeing fabrics was increased by pre-mordanting treatment. Mordant as Sn and Fe was better than anything else in K/S value. Mordanting treatment method affected color change of the dyed silk. In the case of Rubia akane Ntkai light fastness was increased by Fe and Al mordant treatment, Perspiration fastness of Rubia akane Nakai appeared more than 3 grades geneally. Fastness of abrasion and dry-cleaning appeared mon than 4～5 grades and these fastness improvement were generally effective for post-mordanting treatment.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.120-130
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• 2011

This study is a fundamental research on the natural Polygoum tinctoria dyeing to quantify scientifically and satisfy the reproducibility of the procedure. By dyeing the silk fabrics, the establishment of accurate dyeing method was sought. At the same time, we tried to modify the traditional dyeing methods, broaden the methods, and apply the dyeing variously. The dyeability and color changes were compared and reviewed according to the changes in the reducing temperature, reducing time, concentration of the reducing agent, dyeing temperature, dyeing time, concentration of NaOH, and the number of repetition of dyeing. The optimum conditions in the dyeing procedure are as follows: Added concentration of the reducing agent is 3g/${\ell}$. Reducing temperature is $60^{\circ}C$. Reducing time is 40minutes. Dyeing temperature is $30^{\circ}C$. Added concentration of NaOH is 1g/${\ell}$. Dyeing time is 30minutes.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.34-39
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• 2004

Dyeing properties of Glycyrrhizae Radix was investigated with silk fabrics. Dyeing water is a type of chalcone, it showed yellow in IR spectrum. K/S value showed high in following conditions; Glycyrrhizae Radix $200g/1\ell4 water, $80^{\circ}$ of dyeing temperature, 90 minute of dyeing time. Glycyrrhizae Radix dyeing water has higher K/S value in alkalinity(pH9) than in neutrality(pH7) or acidity(pH3) conditions. K/S value showed highest in pH5 premordant method of alkalinity dyeing water condition. The color of silk fabric dyed with Glycyrrhizae Radix is yellow. The change of color did not show by mordant treatment. K/S value showed higher in mordant treatment than nonmordant. Light fastness showed over 3 degree in nonmordant, premordant, simmordant(Al,Cu,Fe) and postmordant(Cu). Water fastness showed over 3 degree in dyeing water(pH3, pH5, pH7). Dry cleaning fastness showed over 3 degree in all dyeing methods. Washing fastness is showed in 2-3 degree; Al in nonmordant, premordant, simmordant and Cu in simmordant are 2-3 degree. Perspiration fastness is nearly 3-4 degree in premordant and simmordant. Perspiration fastness shows high in premordant, simmordant than postmordant. The fastness of light, water, dry cleaning, washing, perspiration shows better nonmordant, premordant, simmordant than postmordant method.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.439-453
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• 2015

This research is regarding Park Ki-Jong's Western-style court costume and emphasizes the shape and style peculiarities of Western-style court costumes in the Korean Empire from the 1876 Port Opening to the 1910 annexation of Korean to Japan. Park Ki-Jong's frock coat was made during the period of the established law from 1900 to 1910. 1) The brand was ASADA TAILOR from Kyung-Sung. 2) The shape was long at the front and back, and it featured a picked lapel and double breast with six buttons to fasten and two buttons for decoration on the upper part. 3) The frock coat's materials were black wool fabric and black ridged silk. The lining's material was black plain silk and the sleeve's lining was white with blue striped silk. 4) The front separated the upper and bottom parts. The bottom was composed of a one-piece A-line skirt that continued from the front to back. The top of the back was separated by the princess line and the center-back seam was also separated with a vent. However, the center-back of the waistline was not separated, and it continued to one piece. The sleeve shape was a two-piece sleeve style with a phony vent and two wrapping buttons.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2011.11a
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• pp.33-33
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• 2011

Artificial silk that called "Ponggi (Gyeongsangbukdo, Korea) In-Gyeun" in Korea is entirely viscose rayon of which made main component refined larches and cotton linter. It also is natural fabrics with light weight, cool texture, free from the body and well ventilation property, so, feel good touch during the wearing. In addition, it often used as summer cloth and bedding because it has good absorbancy to perspiration and antistatic. The "Hanji", made of paper mulberry, is known as useful material for human. In this research focused on dyeability of Artificial silk/paper mulberry mixed fabrics using Dendropanax morbifera Lev.(called as "Hwangchil") Especially, the results were in comparison to the dyeing properties of Hwangchil with liquid/solid fermentation or not. As the results, The ${\Delta}E$ difference was dominated when the fabric dyed with fermentation by solid state at $60^{\circ}C$. And it was confirmed that the pH of fermented dye had an important influence in the coloration.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.47 no.2
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• pp.353-370
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• 2023

In this study, the performance of ultrasonic cleaners for ultrasonic washing, which is one of the wet cleaning methods, was evaluated. The washing performances of ultrasonic cleaners were compared with commercial washing machines under normal and wool courses based on different parameters such as detergency, wrinkle formation, fabric damage, dimensional stability, and germ removal ability. Cotton, silk and wool were used in this experiment. Results revealed that the ultrasonic washing detergency of cotton fabrics was lower than that of commercial washing machines under the normal course and similar to that of commercial washing machines under the wool course. Detergency of silk fabrics was similar under both normal and wool courses. In terms of wrinkle formation and dimensional stability, ultrasonic cleaners showed lesser wrinkles and lower shrinkage than commercial washing machines. Considering damage evaluation, ultrasonic cleaners more effectively removed soil without damaging fabrics compared with commercial washing machines. The bacteria removal rate of both cotton and silk was more effective than the wool course of a commercial washing machine. Thus, this study compares the performance of ultrasonic cleaners and commercial washing machines and provides meaningful results related to ultrasonic washing performance.