• Proceedings of the Korean Fiber Society Conference
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• 1993.06b
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• pp.413-417
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• 1993

A study has been conducted on the mechanical properties of two sort of woven silk fabrics, i.e. habutae and dechine, with KES-류 handle measurement system. The mechanical properties are compared with their structural parameters, such as fabric densities, thickness

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.28-41
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• 2015

Properties of textile fabrics influence the appearance, aesthetics, and performance of garment. Drape and related properties of fabrics affect profoundly the static and dynamic appearance during wearer's movement. The three dimensional shape of the folded structure often deforms with time or with subtle vibration around the fabric specimen during the drape measurement. Due to the uneven and complex nature of fabrics, the overall shape of the fabric specimen on the drape tester often becomes unstable. There is a need to understand the fundamental mechanisms of how draping may generate pleasing forms. Two drape test methods, conventional Cusick drape test, and in-built drape tester, based on a depth camera, are compared. Fabric specimens including cotton, linen, silk, wool, polyester, and rayon are investigated for the fabric drape and other physical/mechanical parameters. Drape coefficient values of fabric specimens are compared based on the final drape images, together with the intermediate 3D drape images of the specimens during elevation process of the drape tester equipped with a stepper motor system. The correlation coefficient between the data based on the two methods is reasonably high. Another advantage from the depth camera system is that it allows further analysis of three-dimensional information regarding the fabric drape shape, including the shape of nodes or crest and trough.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.111-120
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• 2000

In order to make a silk-like polyester fabric, polyester fabrics were treated with a several weight reduction machines such as tank type, liquor flow type and C.D.R at the field condition. The results were as followings : The weft density of treated polyester fabric showed different tendency according to the used the weight reduction machine and the rate of weight loss. Namely, at 6.5% weight loss, the weft density of fabric treated with tank and liquor flow type increased by 1 pick/inch and 2 picks/inch, respectively, and decreased by 4 picks/inch in case of treated with C.D.R type. With the increase in the rate of weight loss, the air permeability of treated fabric increased, and the K/S value of dyed fabric decreased. The overall tendency of the air permeability and the K/S value of treated polyester fabric increased in the order of the tank type, liquor-flow type and C.D.R type. The tensile strength of polyester fabric treated with C.D.R had lower value than that of the other type. It is assumed that this result is attributed the decreasing of the cross point of the warp and weft direction.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.48 no.5
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• pp.17-24
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• 2010

Although design, color, and material are important elements in stage costumes, stage lightning also plays significant role in the presentation of stage costumes. Costumes color, material and perception can be significantly influenced by visual effects. Stage illumination can be arranged or managed so that colors are closely related to or enhanced or change the effects of costume colors on the runway or display at specific times. The results of this thesis are as follow; 1) Fabric tone, name, brightness, and chroma of colors were changed by the colors of stage lighting. 2) An achromatic color was changed to a chromatic color after being combined with colors of stage lighting. 3) Stage illuminations can make fabric, colors look similar to stage colors. 4) Plain satin silk fabric which reflects light shows high brightness and chroma after being influenced by stage lighting its shining effects and color changes were clear and apparent. 5) Velvet pile fabric which absorbs light shows low brightness and chroma after being influenced by stage lightning its shining effects and changes of colors were not clear and apparent. In conclusion, natural lights did not significantly influence fabric colors and perception, while artificial lights had wide range of effects on fabric colors and perception.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.36 no.1
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• pp.1-14
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• 2020

This study investigates the crystallinity distribution of ancient silk. Owing to the inherent multi-hierarchical structure of silk protein and the complicated structural changes that occur due to various burial environments, it is challenging but worthwhile to study ancient silk ageing behavior, which is based on the fact that ageing begins with a single fiber and then spreads to a whole fabric. Crystallinity was one of the most effective indicators found to reveal the ageing status of silk. Therefore, a synchrotron radiation-based X-ray diffraction(SR-XRD) method was employed to study the crystallinity distribution of single fibers of ancient silk unearthed from seven archaeological sites in China from historical periods including the warring states, Han dynasty, Song dynasty, and Ming dynasty. In comparison, the conventional X-ray diffraction method, which uses large amounts of samples, was also performed to determine the integral crystallinity of ancient silk. Thermal stability experiments by thermogravimetry(TG) as well as morphology observations by scanning electron microscopy(SEM) and optical microscopy(OM) all confirmed the deterioration of ancient silk. Moreover, the ageing mechanism of ancient silk was proposed with the assistance of an artificial ageing study. The results confirmed the effectiveness of SR-XRD as an ageing indicator, revealing the crystallinity distribution. This research could provide motivation to determine the deterioration status of ancient silk, and would also aid in explaining the fragility of ancient silk due to ageing.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.51-63
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to identify the best dyeing conditions using onion's outer shell. and to apply to the method in practical daily life. To do this. we extracted quercetin from onion's outer shell and dyed several natural fabrics such as cotton, slack mercerized cotton, ramie. and silk. under the different conditions. Dyed fabrics were Investigated in the aspect of dyeability and colorfastness. The effective conditions for the light-fastness and washing-fastness also have been studied. The results of the experiment were varied with such conditions as temperature. time. pH degree. and treatment and types of mordants. The results are as follows ; 1. Fabrics dyed with onion's outer shell showed excellent dyeability even though there were no mordants, and the silk fabric dyed better than both cotton and ramie fabric. Furthermore, in the cases of repeated dyeing and treatment of mordants using AIK(SO$_4$)$_2$.12$H_2O$ and CuSO$_4$,.5$H_2O$ dyeability of specimen had been improved 2. Cellulose fabrics such as cotton, mercerized cotton and ramie showed the best dyeability under relatively low temperature in the range of 20~4$0^{\circ}C$. On the contrary to cellulose fabric, silk fabric showed the best dyeability under higher dyeing temperature. All fabrics had the higest K/S value at pH 3 regardless of the kind of fiber 3. Dyeing colors varied with the kind of mordants. Colors were turned into yellow in AIK(SO$_4$)$_2$.12$H_2O$ into Yellow-red in CuSO$_4$,.5$H_2O$ , and into green-Yellow in FeSO$_4$.7$H_2O$. As mordants, AIK(SO$_4$)$_2$.12$H_2O$, CuSO$_4$,. 5$H_2O$. FeSO$_4$.7$H_2O$. gallic acid and tartaric acid were used and especially AIK(SO$_4$)$_2$.12$H_2O$ showed the best dyeability and colorfastness in repeated dyeing. Mordants such as AIK(SO$_4$)$_2$.12$H_2O$ made fabrics have better chroma and washing-fastness though the light-fastness was poorer than non mordanting. 4. Repeated dyeing brought us deep color. When fresh dyebath was used each time, the dyeability was increased as the experiment was repeated more. When dyed with used dyebath several times, improved dyeability could not be expected. The optimal using times of the used dyebath was twice.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.6
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• pp.763-770
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• 2002

The objective of the study was to investigate skin temperature responses of Hanbok when it was worn. Two healthy females(average 21 years, 155cm and 60kg were exposed to a climatic chamber(Room Temp. $21{\pm}1^{\circ}C,\;52{\pm}2%R.H.$, 0.15m/s). During the experiment, rectal temperature, skin temperature of 9 areas, clothing microclimate, subjective sensation were measured. Chima and Jogory to be made of silk nobang(SN) or Ramie were worn for summer. Polyester(P) Chima and Jogori(R) could be wort for spring and autumn. For winter, silk Chima, Jogori(S) and Durumagi(D) were commonly worn. Rectal temperature was high in order of naked(N), R, SN, P, S, D. However Mean skin temperature was reversely high in order of D, S, SN, R, P, naked. In naked, skin temperature was high in order of head, trunk upper extremity and lower extremity. But on wearing of Hanbok, it was the highest at the chest except head regardless of kinds of clothing ensembles. Skin temperature of upper arm was secondly highest on wearing the silk ensemble and the Durumagi ensemble, but skin temperature of buttock was secondly highest on wearing the silk nobang ensemble and the ramie ensemble. Skin temperature on wearing the silk ensemble was generally higher than those on other clothing ensembles. Local and mean skin temperatures on wearing the silk ensemble and the Durumagj ensemble were generally higher than on other clothing ensembles. Heat resistance of the fabric might have affected on the local skin temperature.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.327-336
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• 2013

The purpose of this study was to evaluate the color image of the natural-dyed silk fabrics. The dye was extracted from pine needle by boiling pine needle with ethanol at $78^{\circ}C$ for 3hours and distilled water at $100^{\circ}C$ for 2hours. The 100% silk fabric was dyed of extract in pH 5 at $90-100^{\circ}C$ for 1 hr. As mordants used were compounds of Al, Sn, Fe, and Cr, color image of pine-needle dyed silk fabrics was classified into 5 factors (pure, gentle, sophisticate, comfortable, pastorale) and the factor pure is most important one of those. Most cheerful image in pure factor was from the fabrics dyed with ethanol extract and then, none and Cr mordanting. Dignified image was from the fabrics dyed with ethanol extract and then, Cu or Fe mordanting. In production, products dyed with ethanol extracts was preferred to those dyed with distilled water extracts. Color image and preference of the silk fabrics dyed with pine needles extracted was affected by extraction solvents and mordants.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.1009-1023
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• 2011

This study was carried out to investigate the variations of catechu dyed fabrics under UV irradiation. Catechu dyed cotton and silk fabrics mordanted with Fe and Cu were irradiated with UV under dry and wet conditions, and then were evaluated on color changes and mechanical properties. Owing to UV irradiation, the K/S values of catechu dyed cotton fabrics increased until a certain amount of time but those of catechu-dyed silk fabrics increased continuously. Cu mordanting cotton fabrics showed the smallest changes due to the UV treatment, and silk fabrics mordanted with Fe showed the largest changes. Wetted fabrics were accelerated maillard browning by UV. Un-mordanted cotton fabrics treated with UV under dry conditions changed its YR color to Y, but changed its Y color to YR under wet conditions. However, mordanted cotton fabrics treated with UV didn't change their color. Dyed silk fabrics except those Fe mordanted and in wet conditions continued to keep their color after UV irradiation. Silk fabric mordanted with Fe under wet conditions changed its Y color to YR by UV irradiation. UV irradiation didn't affect the mechanical properties of catechu-dyed cotton and silk fabrics in any significant way.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.44 no.2
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• pp.93-98
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• 2002

Effect of reducing agent sodium hydrosulfite on the natural indigo on the silk fabrics were examined to improve traditional dyeing method. K/S values of dyed fabrics was monitored with various dyeing temperature time, amount of dye and reducing agent. The dyeability of silk fabrics was improved by using reducing agent, sodium hydrosulfite; K/S value (7.20) was higher then that (1.09) of traditional method at the frist dyeing. Natural indigo dye extracted from dyed silk fabrics are composed of isomer, indigo (67.3%) and indirubin (32.5%). However, silk fabrics showed excellent anti-microbial activity regardless of the dyeing methods.