• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.269-276
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• 2005

In this study, cross-cultural comparison of sound sensation for Korean traditional silk fabrics between Korea and America was performed and prediction models for sound sensation by objective measurements including sound parameters such as level pressure of total sound (LPT), Zwicker's psychoacoustic characteristics, and mechanical properties by Kawabata Evaluation System were established for each nation to explore the objective parameters explaining sound sensation of the Korean traditional silk. As results, Koreans felt the silk fabric sounds soft and smooth while Americans were revealed as perceiving them hard and rough. Both Koreans and Americans were pleasant with sounds of Gongdan and Newttong and especially Newttong was preferred more by Americans in terms of sound sensation. In prediction models, some of subjective sensation were found as being related mainly with mechanical properties of traditional silk fabrics such as surface and compressional characteristics.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.53-60
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• 1992

The effects of Aspergillus fumigatus(AF) and Penicillium citrinum(PC) deterioration of test materials were examined. When the fungi were inoculated to the silk fibers placed on Czapeck agar, malt extract agar and potato agar, they grew best on potato agar which in that context was chosen as a basal medium for deterioration studies. The tensile strength of silk fiber on which AF was grown for 30 days decreased by 28.5% with a concommitant increase in elongation by 40.1%. Silk fabric lost the weight by 4.74%, when inoculated with AF while it lost the weight by 3.37%, when inoculated with AF. When AF and PC were inoculated separately on silk fibers, tensile strength decreased by 76.3% and 56.4%, respectively, with concommitang increases in elingation by 53.1% and 37.8% respectively. The silk was damaged more severely by AF than PC, when they were observed by scanning electron microscope.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.37 no.2
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• pp.197-205
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• 1995

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2010.03a
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• pp.72-73
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• 2010

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.286-293
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• 2013

This study investigates the attachment of glycyrrhizin to fabric using an X-ray photoelectron spectrophotometer( XPS). XPS spectra analysis showed that carbon content on treated fabrics with 0.2% glycyrrhizin increased to 2.699% for silk, 2.829% for nylon, 1.505% for cotton, respectively. The results show that glycyrrhizin is absorbed on treated fabrics. The glycyrrhizin extraction method makes radix glycyrrhizae powder 10g treat the first and the second treatment with ethanol, remove impurities on $75^{\circ}C$; subsequently, it is treated for 10 hours with ethanol 75% on $85^{\circ}C$ and lyophilizated. As the result, glycyrrhizin is extracted 1.7g in GL-I, 1.1 g in GL-II. As the result of abstracting glycyrrhizin with two methods, pure glycyrrhizin was abstracted 45.9% in GL-I, 74.9% in GL-II. GL-I, GL-II; in addition, glycyrrhizin( Japan) on TLC plate was separated in Rf 0.6. By GL-II extract method, this experiment obtained glycyrrhizin 15 g treated in a bath ratio set to 1: 100. Silk fabric was treated at $80^{\circ}C$, 60 min. in, nylon fabric $10^{\circ}C$, 70 min., and cotton fabric $30^{\circ}C$, 80 min.; subsequently, silk, nylon, cotton fabrics showed a 99.9% antibacterial activity for Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumoniae.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.96-103
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• 2011

It is well known that the Petasites japonicus has been used for a long time medicine for the treatment of allergic diseases such as lacquer poisoning. However, the exact components and dyeing properties of its effects is still not known. Therefore, the purpose of this study was to investigate the dyeing property and ultraviolet-cut ability of silk and nylon fabrics that was dyed variously with the Petasites japonicus. The Petasites japonicus extract was done by boiling with distilled water at $100^{\circ}C$ for 1 hour. As mordanting agent, we used Aluminum potassium sulfate ($AlK(SO_4)_2{\cdot}12H_2O$), Copper(II) sulfate pentahydrate ($CuSO_5{\cdot}5H_2O$), Iron(II)Chloride ($FeCl_2{\cdot}4H_2O$). The best K/S value of dyeing temperature and time, all the fabrics were $100^{\circ}C$, 90min. Silk fabric was dyed yellow(0.8Y 7.6/2.2) and nylon fabric was dyed reddish yellow(10.1 YR 7.4/3.0). Silk fabric and nylon fabric was changed greenish yellow on mordanting with $CuSO_5{\cdot}5H_2O$ and $FeCl_2{\cdot}4H_2O$ respectively. And the colorfastness of washing and dry-cleaning was improved by using mordanting agent(4~5 grade). Ultraviolet-cut ability(UV-B) was showed more 90% in dyed nylon fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.6
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• pp.882-889
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• 2008

Three fabrics, 100% silk, nylon and cotton each, were dyed with a lichen dye solution prepared by a fermentation method under conditions of varying dyebath pH and temperature. To verify the effect of chitosan on fabric dyeing, the 100% cotton fabric was treated with a chitosan solution before dyeing. The K/S, CIE $L^*$, $a^*$, $b^*$, ${\Delta}E$ and Munsell values of the dyed samples were measured. Colorfastness of each sample was also investigated. The maximum K/S value was measured at 520nm wavelength for the dyed silk fabric and at 480nm for the dyed cotton and nylon. The K/S values for the dyed silk fabric were much greater than those of the other fabrics. The dyed silk fabric showed a red tone on the Munsell color system, and the dyed nylon and cotton fabrics a yellowish red tone. Dye affinity to fabrics was better in a neutral or acidic dyebath. As dyeing temperature increased, K/S values increased for the dyed nylon and cotton fabrics but not for the silk. Dyeability of cotton fabrics could improve by Chitosan treatment. As for most natural dyes, colorfastness of all dyed samples was poor. The silk fabric showed an excellent dry cleaning fastness of Grade 5.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.3
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• pp.137-151
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• 2012

In 1966, $Seokgatap$ pagoda in $Bulguksa$ temple was damaged by the tomb robbers and was dismantled to fix the damage. In the process, many offerings to Buddha and containers for Sarira(the cremated remains) were found in $Sarigong$(specially designated space for the Sarira casket) inside the second floor of the pagoda. Many fabrics like $Geum$, $Neung$(twill), $Rha$(complex gauze), silk tabby and linen were also excavated. In this study, $Geum$ fabric from the $Seokgatap$ was closely examined. $Geum$ of $seokgatap$ is weft-faced compound weave according to the analysis of its weaving pattern which was wrongly presumed as warp-faced compound weave for some time. Technical analysis of $Geum$: Main: silk, Binding: silk, Proportion: 1 main warp to 1 binding warp, Count: 15 main warps and 15 binding warps per centimeter, Weft: polychrome silk without apparent twist, Colors: yellow, mustard yellow, deep blue, green and purple, Weave: weft-faced compound twill, 1/2 S. $Geum$ of $Seokgatap$ was made in the $8^{th}$ century, since it was weaved in weft-faced compound weave twill which was popular in the $8-9^{th}$ century. And also, the arrangement of the colors was done in the same way of gradation $Geum$ silk which was popular in the $7-8^{th}$ C in China and Japan. Third, we restored the pattern of $Geum$ of the Unified Shilla Dynasty for the first time. It was very difficult to figure out the shape and the size of pattern since the fabric was partially lost and ruined. We tried to draw the diagram of structure with the cross point of the warp and the weft to restore the pattern. By doing so, we could identify two kinds of small flower pattern, palmette and the pattern of repeating vines. Fourth, we could infer that the $Geum$ of $Seokgatap$ was used for $geumdae$(a pouch made of $geum$) by analyzing all the documents and the characteristics of the fabric.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.577-587
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• 2016

Natural dye extracted from Salicornia bigelovii was applied to silk fabrics by dip dyeing process. The dyeing properties and the functionalities of the silk fabrics were determined. Factors affecting the dyeing properties such as dyestuff concentration, temperature, time and pH were studied. The colorimetric parameters $L^*$, $a^*$, $b^*$, and H, V/C values were measured to select the optimal mordanting conditions. The color-fastnesses of the dyed and mordanted fabrics were estimated for practical use; in addition, the antibacterial property, ultraviolet protection properties were evaluated. The dyeabilities of silk increased depending on the increasing dye concentration, dyeing time, and dyeing temperature. And optimum dyeing results were achieved when dyeing with 300% (o.w.f.) of dye concentration at $90^{\circ}C$ for 100 minutes and at pH 3. The dyed silk fabrics without mordants produced yellow (Y) color and showed yellow (Y) or green yellow (GY) colors depending on the mordants type. The light fastness of dyed and Al mordanted silk fabrics were found to be excellent, and the drycleaning and rubbing fastness were good. The dyed silk fabrics showed no antibacterial property, but Al and Cu mordanted silk fabrics showed 99.9% reduction rate. The ultraviolet protection properties of the dyed silk fabric was improved. And the ultraviolet protection properties of mordanted samples showed very good ultraviolet protection properties.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.10
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• pp.1390-1400
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to categorize the type of fabrics and to analyze weaving method on the silk fabrics from ewongun's Tomb. The conclusions of this research are as follow. 1) Among the 26pieces of excavated clothes,98% of them were made of silk fabric and among them 84% used high-quality non-patterned silk I would assume, therefore, that the tomb was owned by a person who had a dignified yet humble tagte of higher society. 2) The weaving methods of textiles are plain weave, twil1 weave, satin weave. Plain weave includes spun silk tabby, fine filament silk tabby, raw silk tabby, thine silk tabby, damask on tabby, twill weave includes twill damask with different directions, satin weave includes non-patterned satin damask,5-end satin damask(4/1 warp faces ground, l/4 wok faced pattern). As the result of literature survey, I settled the names of textiles as follows; tabby was called Myunju, Saeju, Saengcho, and Sookcho according to the kind and density of silk threads used; Damask on tabby was ca]led Hwamunju) Twill damask was called Hwmunnung Satin damask was ca]led Hwamundan if they bear patterns by themselves or Mumundan if they don't have any patterns on them.