• 복식
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• 제56권1호
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• pp.97-105
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• 2006

The dyeability and antibacterial activity of fabrics dyed with lavender extract were analyzed. The results obtained are as follows. The surface color of all the dyed fabrics was tinged with green or yellow of a slight red tint. In the test results of dyeing colorfastness, the colorfastness to sunlight of the dyed fabrics which is both not treated with a mordant and treated with a K2Cr2O7 mordant was excellent with 4th grade of colorfastness. The others showed below 2nd grade. The colorfastness to laundry showed, as most of dyed fabrics were 4th-5th grade, relatively excellent results. The colorfastness to perspiration showed different results respectively according to the kind of both dyed fabrics and mordants. The colorfastness to crocking of the dyed both cotton and silk fabrics showed the excellent result of 4th-5th grade. The colorfastness to dry cleaning of all the dyed fabrics was excellent with 4th-5th grade. In the test results of antibiosis, the dyed fabrics of both cotton and silk didn't show the significant decrease rate for the fungus called Klebsiella pneumoniae. For the fungus called Staphylococcus aureus, the dyed cotton fabric showed the decrease rate of $98\%$ and the dyed silk fabric showed the decrease rate of $50\%$. For the fungus called Chaetomium globosum, the dyed fabric of cotton didn't show the significant antibacterial efficacy, but the dyed fabric of silk showed the significant antibacterial efficacy for the mold fungus called Aspergillus niger.

• 한국잠사곤충학회지
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• 제36권2호
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• pp.147-151
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• 1994

고급성과 위생성이 우수한 견과 실용적 특성이 우수한 합성섬유의 서로의 장점만을 가진 이상적인 직물을 개발코저 시험한 결과 고치와 polyester 복합사(S/P 복합사)와 복합 직물의 특성은 다음과 같다. 1. 자동조사기에 의한 복합사 제조시험 결과 빔을 5회 주었을때 보다 빔을 주지 않았을때 사조 집합도가 향상되었으며 빔을 주지 않고 공기교란 장치만으로 섬도 감지기의 작동도 정확히 이루어져 섬도편차가 양호한 S/P 복합사를 제조할 수 있었다. 2. S/P 복합사를 SEM으로 관찰한 결과 포합이 잘된 부분이 많았으나 견사는 견사끼리 polyester는 polyester 끼리 포합된 형태도 관찰되었다. 3. 직물을 SEM으로 관찰한 chiffon 직물은 강연을 한 결과 견사 부분이 polyester사 내부로 파묻힌 곳도 관찰되었다. 4. 분산염료와 산성염료 혼합용액에서 일욕 이단법으로 염색한 S/P 복합사 직물의 염색견뢰도는 habutae 직물은 일광견뢰도가 3급인 것을 제외하고는 모두 4급 이상으로 양호하였고 chiffon 직물은 모두 4급이상으로 양호하였다. 5. habutae 직물과 chiffon 직물의 특성을 보면 강력과 modulus는 생지에서 가장 크고 염색 가공지에서 크게 감소되었으며 신도는 정련지와 염색 가공지가 생지보다 증가되었다.

• 복식
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• 제55권5호
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• pp.101-107
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• 2005

In this article, mordant absorption rate by the Change of temperature and fabric, discharge level by water washing, mordant density and method in mordant dye are going to be handled. Besides, how treatment method will have an effect on absorption rate and color, is also going to be covered. An atom extinction photometer was used to measure the amount of mordant absorbed in fabric at each temperature and mordant type. It turned out that absorption rate differs according to the type of mordant and sample or temperature. Also it turned out that the mordant input amount has little influence on absorption rate, that is to say, if though you use more mordants, just tiny amount of mordant is going to be absorbed in cloth. It is true that the higher temperature goes up, the better mordant absorption gets. It is found that the type of mordant and sample, treatment period affects the discharge rate. Normally $15{\~}98\%$ mordant comes off the fabric by water washing, to be specific, $17{\~}47\%$ Iron by water washing and it has better performance on cotton and nylon than silk, $1\%{\~}52\%$ Aluminum by water washing and better absorption on silk, $36{\~}89\%$ Chrome by water washing and better absorption on silk, $50{\~}89\%$ copper by water washing and better absorption on silk, poor on cotton. The examination of the K/S values and colors between before and after soaping has been conducted under the circumstance that the test fabrics had been treated at $80^{\circ}C$ for 30 minutes with $0.2\%$ soaping solution. In case of pre-mordanted fabrics, the K/S value nosedived after soaping, meanwhile densely mordanted fabric's K/S value soared but after soaping, it dropped sharply. It turned out that soaping treatment deteriorates absorption much more than water washing. It's considered that $0.1 \%$ (W/V) of mordant density is appropriate.

• 한국잠사곤충학회지
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• 제41권3호
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• pp.185-195
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• 1999

This study was carried out to improve the skin care property of the polyester fabric by finishing with sericin. It was known that skin care function, anti-oxidation, anti-tyrosinase activity and anti-elastase activity can be achieved from sericin finish. But, the moisture regain of the finished fabric was measured simply, because the major cause of the discomfort from polyester fabric has been anounced to be wetness. The effects of various treatment conditions on the properties of the finished fabric were measured, and obtained results were as follows: 1. The moisture regain at 40$^{\circ}C$ 90% RH were increased with the sericin uptake increasing. while it was not significant for the effects on the moisture regain depending on the treatment conditions like the degree of polymerization and treatment concentration of the binder. The moisture release of the fabric having sericin uptake 1%, 2% was faster than non treated fabric. The change of the moisture regain of the finished fabric from 40$^{\circ}C$ 90% RH to room temperature was 4∼5 times higher than that of knitted cotton fabric. 2. The frictional static charge was decreased with the degree of polymerization of the binder increasing. While the sericin uptake and treatment concentration of the binder were not significant. 3. The whiteness value of the fabric was slightly decreased by finishing with sericin and binder. In that cases, W values of the finished fabrics were above 90 while that depending on the degree of polymerization of the binder was not significant. 4. The major cause of the yellowness of the finished fabric was proved to be catalyst. The yellowness of the finished fabric with sulfur containing catalyst was lower than that with amine group containing catalyst. 5. The effects of the treatment concentrations of the cross-linking agent, catalyst and drying time on the wash durability were not significant.

• 한국잠사곤충학회지
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• 제40권1호
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• pp.78-85
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• 1998

Colorants were prepared by extraction of natural indigo which was harvested just in the blooming season(in the late of July). 100 g of fresh leaves soaking in 1 ιwater was kept at 3$0^{\circ}C$, 30 hours. A solution of 3g/l calcium hydroxide was added into it to precipitate dye substance and it was freezing-dried into powder form. The fermentation and dyeing conditions were investigated. The results obtained are summarized as follows; K/S value of dyed silk fabrics of fermentation conditions was higher at 95$^{\circ}C$ for 20 min. than at 4$0^{\circ}C$ for 20 hours. Furthermore, K/S value of dyed silk fabric was raised by the addition of 5g/l of glucose and 5g/l of NaOH. K/S value of dyed silk fabric was raised by the addition of 5g/l of glucose and 5g/l of NaOH. K/S value increased as extending of dyeing time when dyed till 2 hours at 3$0^{\circ}C$. K/S value decreased in order of 3$0^{\circ}C$, 4$0^{\circ}C$ and 5$0^{\circ}C$, at the various dyeing temperatures and dyeing concentrations, and colour fastness ranged from 4 to 5 grade in terms of washing, perspiration and light fastness.

• 한국잠사곤충학회지
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• 제27권2호
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• pp.54-63
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• 1985

최근 필자가 견직물방추 가공하기 위해 개발한 acryl 합성수지를 합성섬유와 견직물가공된 것이 정전기발생에 어떠한 영향을 미치는가를 알기 위해 실행했다. 본 실험조건은 다음과 같다. (A) 사용가공처리제는 0.5% acryl polymer 525였다(자가제). (B) 각 직물에 대한 정전기 대전압은 K.S. 규격마찰 검사(KS K 0555) 방식에 따라 했다. (C) 마찰대상 직물로서는 K.S. 표준규격 KS K 0905 cotton, nylon, polyester와 공시직물로 했다. (D) 시료로서 silk, nylon, polyester 및 acryl 직물을 상기 합성수지 가공한 것과 안한 것을 구분해서 정전기 대전압을 조사했다. (E) 가공한 것과 가공하지 않은 시료별로 K.S. 표준규격(KS K 0465) 방식에 의해 세탁했다. 이와 같은 조사로 인하여 여러 가지 흥미있는 결과를 얻었는데 그 결과는 다음과 같다. 1. polyster를 제외하고는 silk, bylon, acryl 직물의 가공직물의 대전압이 가공하지 않은 것의 대전압보다 높았다(Table 5참조). 2. 가공한 polyester 직물의 K.S. polyester에 대한 대전압이 현저하게 감소하였다. 3. 견직물의 대전성은 흠이 없는데도 불구하고 높게 나왔는데 그 이유로서는 견직물의 결점이 마찰에 약하다는 성질과 마찰에 의한 K.S. 표준검사규격이 마찰에 강한 합성섬유를 대상으로 되어서 견직물에는 부적합한데 있다. 4. 동질섬유직물간의 마찰로 인한 대전압이 이질섬유직물간이 대전압보다 작게 나왔다. 5. 정전기 대전압은 세탁반복에 따라 증가하였다. 6. 많은 조사 결과가 Contact Electrification Series 원칙에 준하고 있는 사실, 즉 series상 피차 멀리 배치될수록 마찰대전압이 높아지고 있었다(Fig. 6 참조). 7. 이러한 조사 결과는 정전기 발생에 관하는 한 혼방사작업에 문제점으로 될 것이다. 8. 또한 견직물 가공에 임해서도 정전기 대전압이 가공으로 인해 증가할 것이라는 문제를 잊어서는 안 된다.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제8권5호
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• pp.31-40
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to investigate the change of the physical properties, bending and luster properties, which are related to the touch and appearance of silk fabrics modified by the degumming process. The silk has long been known as one of the most elegant and soft textile materials. The raw silk yarn, or cocoon bave, spun from the spinneret, is rather stiff due to the sericin covering the two fibroins together. The sericin can be removed during a degumming process. The removal of the sericin would result in remarkable change in the physical properties of the raw silk fabrics, including luster of the fabrics, which process parameters could possibly be utilized to adequately control the silk fabric properties. The KES(Kawabata Evaluation System) is a testing methodology that has been used with considerable success for predicting the hand and tailorability of apparel fabrics. This study uses one of the KES, bending tester, to measure the bending properties of the silk fabrics degummed for specified period to change the physical/mechanical properties of the fabric. The KES bending measurement revealed that the bending rigidity decreased for both the warp and weft direction of the silk fabrics with the increase of the degumming period. It has been shown in this study that the some of the hand-related physical properties, including the bending rigidity, drapability, and luster, could be modified with the change in the degumming period.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제20권6호
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• pp.51-62
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to check color change depending on dyeing conditions when silk fabrics was dyed with gromwell and to investigate mordant effect when synthetic tannin was used as a mordant. First, when silk fabrics were dyed with gromwell, the change of color, brightness and chroma were examined by measuring K/S value, a, b value, L value and C value depending on dyeing condition. Second, color, brightness and chroma differences which appeared after mordanting with synthetic tannin were investigated and muti-functional mordanting effect was confirmed with dyeing fastness, antibiosis. As a result of color analysis of gromwell, it was proved that the main pigment of gromwell was shikonin. Color was red purple at pH 3 when silk fabrics were dyed with gromwell. But It became greenish and bluish as temperature rose and time passed by. And it grew reddish and yellowish as concentration level reached higher. The color became purple at pH 5 and purple blue at pH 7. Both at pH 5 and pH 7, it became greenish and yellowish, as temperature went up and time ran by. And it became reddish with concentration increasing. Brightness and chroma decreased with temperature and concentration increasing as well as time passing by. After mordanting with synthetic tannin, the color became less reddish at pH 3 and reddish-yellowish at pH 5 and pH 7. The brightness increased and the chroma decreased. At all pH, the color, the brightness and the chroma became similarly by synthetic tannin mordanting. Dyeing fastness of synthetic tannin mordanted fabric was higher than that of non-mordanted fabric. Especially, wet fastness at pH 3 improved from 1 grade before synthetic tannin mordanting to $3{\sim}4$ grade after tannin mordanting. Antibiosis was improved by gromwell dyeing and synthetic tannin mordanting.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제20권6호
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• pp.87-91
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• 2008

It is commonly known that water repellency of the fabric treated with fluorocarbon resin brings about a decrease by the washing and recovers by the subsequent heat treatment. In this article, effect of the water repellency was investigated on the nylon 6, triacetate and silk fabrics treated with hydrocarbon and silicon resins. Hydrocarbon and silicon resins have been widely used in the textile finishing as the softening and water proofing agents. The fabrics were treated with hydrocarbon resins, Paragium JQ and RC (Ohara Paragium Chemical Co.) and a silicon resin, Poron MR (Shinetsu Chemical Co.), and then washed and subsequently heat treated. Although the water repellency increased by the resin treatment, it decreased by the washing apparently and recovered a little by the heat treatment. The effect of the heat treatment was small comparing with that of the fluorocarbon resin. Furthermore, as a mechanical property of the treated fabric, KES shearing and bending hysteresis parameters, modulus and hysteresis width of the hydrocarbon resin-treated nylon 6, triacetate and silk fabrics decreased by the heat treatment after washing. Therefore, the treatment is effective at improving the softening of the fabric in water repellent finish.

• 한국잠사곤충학회지
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• 제37권2호
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• pp.161-166
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• 1995

홍화의 견, 모시 염색에 있어서 전통방법의 염색 조건을 구명하고자 황색소를 추출 제거하고 건조시킨 홍화에 잿물을 첨가하여 추출한 홍색소용액에 오미자추출액으로 pH를 조절한 후 소정 조건에서 정련 견직물, 생견직물 및 모시직물을 염색한 결과는 다음과 같다. 1. 홍색색소 추출에 사용된 볏짚, 콩대 및 쪽대 등 태운 잿물의 종류에 따른 pH는 큰 차이가 없었다. 2. 홍색색소 추출에 사용된 홍화량은 10g/l 정도가 적당하였다. 3. 홍색색소 추출 및 염색온도는 4$0^{\circ}C$가 적당하였다. 4. pH조절을 위한 오미자추출액의 첨가는 10% 정도, 오미자추출에 사용된 오미자량은 10g/l가 적당하였다. 5. 염색견뢰도는 모시직물이 견직물보다 약간 높았다.