• 한국의류학회지
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• 제36권3호
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• pp.324-334
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• 2012

In this research, the dyeing properties of $Lycopus$ $lucidus$ Turcz on cotton and silk fabrics were evaluated to establish a scientific database of natural dyes. The optimum dyeing conditions were identified with K/S values depending on the dyeing concentration, temperature, time, and pH. For the optimum conditions, the color changes for different synthetic mordants were observed as L, $a^*$, $b^*$ and H, V, C. The color fastness after dyeing and mordanting was also examined. Additionally, the antibiosis of $Lycopus$ $lucidus$ Turcz was examined. The results were as follows: For the cotton, the optimized dyeing conditions were 300% (o.w.f.), $50^{\circ}C$, 40 min., and pH 5. For the silk fabric, the conditions were 450% (o.w.f.), $70^{\circ}C$, 60 min., and pH 4. The K/S value of dyed cotton improved about 1.03-2.78 folds after mordanting. The fabric color was yellow in the absence of mordanting, while it was reddish yellow after post-mordanting with FFC. Although the color changed with the mordanting method and mordant, the overall hue was yellow. Thus, $Lycopus$ $lucidus$ Turcz appears to have the potential for use as a natural dyeing material for a yellow hue. The K/S value of the dyed silk fabric improved about 1.05-1.40 folds after mordanting. The fabric showed a reddish yellow color when pre-mordanted with Al and Cu. The washing and dry-cleaning fastness of the cotton and silk fabrics were at the 4-5 level. The light fastness of the cotton improved after mordanting; however, pre-mordanting was more effective than post-mordanting or the absence of mordanting. The dyed cotton, silk fabrics showed excellent antibiosis.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제17권2호
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• pp.10-18
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• 2005

Silk fabrics mordanted with $Fe^{2+},\;Ni^{2+},\;and\;Cu^{2+}$ were dyed with the aqueous extract of Cassia tora L. seed which was known to include water soluble colorant kaempferol, one of flavonol compounds. Kaempferol can react with free radicals and chelate transition metal ions, which is thought to catalyze processes leading to the appearance of free radicals and have antioxidant activity. In relation to the coordinating and chelating mechanism of the ions with the silk protein and kaempferol, reasonable conclusions should be made on the colorant uptake and the water fastness of the fabric. The amount of the colorant on the fabric was in the order of $Fe^{2+}>Ni^{2+}>Cu^{2+}$. In case of dyeing through coordinaiton bonds between transition metal ions and silk protein and colorants, it was thought that the ions with the smaller secondary hydration shell, the higher preference to the atoms of the ligand coordinated, and the suitable bonding stability for the substitution of primarily hydrated water molecules for colorants led to the higher colorant uptake. The water fastnsess of the fabric was in the order of $Fe^{2+}>Cu^{2+}>Ni^{2+}$. It should be reasonable to choose transition metal ions with weak and strong tendency to the ionic and the coordination bond, respectively, to the carboxylate anion of the silk protein. Although further research needs to be done, the conclusions above may be generally applied to the natural dyeing through the coordination bond mechanism between transition metal ions and colorants and substrates.

• 복식
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• 제56권8호
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• pp.74-82
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• 2006

In ancient China, Su(綬) was the ornament of the full dress. It had originated from tying the jade or another thing before Jen(秦:Qin) dynasty and it tied the imperial jade seal and the chop from Han dynasty. Su of Han dynasty was different in the inscape, colour, length and density according to the grade. And the shape was the straight line. But these phenomena were changed after Han dynasty. This study showed how it changed. To studying used the comparison method of literature records, paintings and archeological relics. It mostly studied imperial Su. Su of Han dynasty of the high grade was formed by Yeok, the circle type jade and Su(Su moaned whole Su, at the same time moaned the part of Su, too). Afterward, Yeok was changed into Small Su[小綬] and Su was changed into Big Su(大綬). Originally the circle type jade was connecting Yeok to Su, but it was changed into tying Small Su only. Su of Han dynasty used the four kinds of colour, but from Su(隋: Sui) dynasty used the six kinds of colour. Originally Su was interlacing, but it was changed into the silk fabric from Song[宋] dynasty. According to using silk fabric's Su, it was likely to disappear the system distinguishing the grade by length. And it kept the method of interlacing the reticulation in the low part of silk fabric's Su. So, after using silk fabric's Su, the system of the density was not about the main body but about the reticulation. Su was been used woven with supplementary golden wefts, too. The circle type jade was chiseled the dragon and cloud from Geum[金:Jin] dynasty. These not the pattern of silk fabrics.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• 제5권4호
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• pp.303-308
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• 2004

A natural colorant was extracted from Cassia tara L. using buffer solutions (pH: 2-11) as extractants. The dyeing solution (Cassia tara L. extract) extracted using pH 9 buffer solution was found to give the highest K/S values of dyed fabrics. Cotton and silk fabrics were dyed with Cassia tara L. extract at $60^{\circ}C$ for 60 min with pre-treatment of various metal salts as mordants. It was found that Cassia tara L. extract was polygenetic dyestuffs and its major components were anthraquinones. Studies have been made on the effects of the kind of mordant on dyeing properties and colour fastnesses of cotton and silk fabrics. The K/S of cotton fabrics increased in the order of the dyeing using $FeSO_4 >CuSO_4> ZnSO_4> MnSO_4\cong Al_2(SO_4)_3 > NiSo_4 > none$, however, the K/S of silk fabrics increased in the order of the dyeing using $FeSO_4 > CuSO_4 > ZnSO_4\cong Al_2(SO_4)_3 > MnSO_4\cong NiSO_4 > none$. It was found that the K/S values of dyed fabrics were largely affected by the colour difference $(\DeltaE)$ between mordanted fabric and control fabric. However, they were not depended on the content of mordanted metal ion of the fabrics. Mordants $FeSO_4$ and CuSO_4$ for cotton fabric, $FeSO_4,\; CuSO_4,\; and\; Al_2(S0_4)_3$ for silk fabric were found to give good light fastness (rating 4).

• 복식
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• 제56권2호
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• pp.147-154
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• 2006

In this study 1, the dyeability and sun protection characteristic of the fabrics dyed with pine needles extract was investigated. In the test of color difference, the surface color of all the dyed fabric of both cotton and silk came to light as greenish yellow. In the test of dyeing colorfastness, the colorfastness to sunlight of dyed cotton fabric was below 2nd grade and the one of dyed silk fabric was below 3rd grade. The colorfastness to laundry for the degree of discoloration showed a difference as to mordants, but the colorfastness to laundry for the degree of contamination was excellent as all the dyed fabrics were 4th-5th grade. The colorfastness to perspiration was excellent as the degree of discoloration was more than 3rd grade and the degree of contamination was more than 4th-5th grade. The colorfastness to rubbing showed the excellent result as all the dyed fabrics were 4th-5th grade. In the test of sun protection factor(SPF), the cotton and silk fabrics dyed with $FeSO_4{\cdot}7H_{2}O$ mordant showed very high sun protection characteristic as the SPF was each 36.1 and 42.5. In the test of sun protection rate for UV-A and UV-B, the cotton and silk fabrics dyed with $FeSO_4{\cdot}7H_{2}O$ mordant showed the very high sun protection rate of more than $90\%$.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.709-717
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• 2010

This study investigated the properties and functions of wool and silk dyed with Catechu by examining the effects of dying conditions such as dye concentration, dying temperature, dyeing time, pH level and pre-mordants. These conditions were examined in relation to dye uptake and color changes, washing fastness, light fastness, ultraviolet-cut ability and antimicrobial ability of the dyed fabrics. Catechu showed good affinity to silk fiber. Langmuir adsorption isotherm was obtained, and so it was considered that ionic bondings are formed between Catechu and protein fiber. As the dyeing time and temperature is increased, the dyeability of both silk and wool fabrics also increases. At high temperatures the color of dyed fabrics changes from Y and YR to R. Wool is effective in using Al, Cu, Fe mordant, while silk is effective only in using only Cu mordants. The dyeability was shown to be improved at low pH levels. Additionally, both washing fastness and light fastness were shown to be low. However, the fabric color gradually changed to red was due to mailard reaction of catechol tannin causingby repeated washing and sunlight. The ultraviolet-cut ability was improved for cotton fabric dyed with Catechu. Also, dyed fabric with Catechu showed very good antimicrobial abilities at 99.9%.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제43권7호
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• pp.109-116
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• 2005

Using buffer solutions, consisting of pH 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8, silk fiber fabric specimens, pre-mordanted with one of the mordanting agents, Sn, Al, Cu, Cr, and Fe, were dyed using cochineal dyestuff. The color of the dyed silk fabric specimens was predominantly red(R) for the acidic range of pH 4 and 5, and predominantly purple(RP) for the neutral range of pH 6,7, with 8, with the pH boundary differentiating between the shades being between pH 5 and 6. As a general trend, the chroma value decreased as the pH changed from acid to alkali, and the highest chroma value us attained between pH 4 and 5. Regardless of the mordanting conditions, the trend was that $ {\Delta}E$ showed the highest measured value in the acidic range of pH 4 and 5, and it dropped abruptly after the pH 6.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제3권2호
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• pp.162-167
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• 2001

The dyeing powder drawn out from Cinnamoum cassia by water was concentrated. Using this powder, the silk fabrics were dyed and they measured with the K/S value, surface color, dye fastness and antimicrobial properties. The colorant of Cinnamoum cassia was proved flavonoids by FT-IR spectrum. The K/S values of silk by mordants concentration were much higher than those of high-concentration, the color yield of the silk fabrics were most efficient the premordanting method. The surface colors on the dyed fabric depended heavily upon mordants used or mordanting methods. For all cases, the value of the dyed fabric was generally dark except AI-mordant. The chroma produced clear for the unmordanting, the color difference was distinct when using the Fe-mordant. The color fastness was significantly improved when mordants were added. In the case of the light fastness, Cu-mordants improved more than 1-2 level. The Cu-mordant showed the greatest antimicrobial activity on the silk fabric.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제22권4호
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• pp.306-313
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• 2010

To achieve color diversification of natural dyeing, color mixture dyeing with Indigo and Japanese pagoda tree is applied to wool and silk fabrics. After dyeing with Japanese pagoda tree extract solution of 5~25%(o.w.f.), the indigo dyeing was carried out up to four times. Alternatively after repeat dyeing with indigo one to seven times, the dyeing with Japanese pagoda tree extract solution was applied in 5 steps(5~25%). In color mixture dyeing, the dye uptake of wool fabrics appears higher than that of silk. The sequence of Japanese pagoda tree extract dyeing after Indigo dyeing was generally higher dye uptake compared with that of Indigo dyeing after Japanese pagoda tree extract dyeing. For wool and silk fabric, the pre-dyeing with Japanese pagoda tree solution was more effective for color diversification but the pre-dyeing with Indigo was more effective for the exhibition of intermediate color shade.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제1권4호
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• pp.363-369
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• 1999

Artemisia princeps was used for the natural dye stuff extraction and concentration to produce the condensed dye liquid. Using this liquid, the silk and the cotton fabrics were dyed. And then the K/S value, color difference were measured in order to determine the dyeability and the antimicrobial activity. The K/S value of silk were much higher than those of cotton. In terms of the silk fabric, the premordanting method was most efficient of the mordanting method. The various surface colors on the dyed fabric were resulted according to used mordants and mordanting methods. The dye fastness was significantly improved when mordants were added. Among them, Cr-mordant improved more than 1 level. The Cu-mordant showed the greatest antimicrobial activity on both of mordant treated silk and cotton.